Life And Adventure In The South Pacific
John D. Jones
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29 chapters
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The present volume lays no claim to literary merit. Two young men, led to engage in the whale-fisheries, and spending five years in the employment, have compiled from their log-books and their recollection a plain, unvarnished narrative of this period. The work is placed before the public as an account of localities few have visited, and the detail of an employment of which little is generally known. The chief effort in the way of style has been to give vivid descriptions, and make the reader th
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CHAPTER I. New Bedford.—Fitting out a Whaler.—Shipping a Crew.—Green Hands.—Shippers.—Outfitters.—A Sailor’s Wardrobe.—All Hands on board.—Good-by to Yankee Land.—The Pilot taking leave.—The last Farewell.—Captain’s Speech.—Choosing Watches.—The Modus Operandi of Ships’ Watches.—Sea-sickness.
CHAPTER I. New Bedford.—Fitting out a Whaler.—Shipping a Crew.—Green Hands.—Shippers.—Outfitters.—A Sailor’s Wardrobe.—All Hands on board.—Good-by to Yankee Land.—The Pilot taking leave.—The last Farewell.—Captain’s Speech.—Choosing Watches.—The Modus Operandi of Ships’ Watches.—Sea-sickness.
The city of New Bedford, Mass., has for many years been the principal whaling-port of the United States. From there hundreds of young men have annually gone to different parts of the world to battle with the monsters of the deep, and, after a long and weary absence from home and friends, returned with ships “laden with the spoils.” It is not our purpose to give a description of this far-famed (among whalemen) place, but we trust it will prove interesting to the reader if we briefly sketch the mo
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CHAPTER II. Sick of the Sea.—Description of the Boats and Whaling Apparatus.—Boat-headers.—Boat-steerers.—Mastheads.—The first Whale.—“There she blows!”—All hands excited.—Lowering the Boats.—“Pull, every man of you.”—A Fisherman’s Luck.—Whales again.—Cape Verd Islands.—St. Antonio.—St. Jago.—Fogo, the Island of Fire.—Going ashore.—A noisy Crowd.—Tom and the Portugee Donkey.—Manuel.—Now for Cape Horn.
CHAPTER II. Sick of the Sea.—Description of the Boats and Whaling Apparatus.—Boat-headers.—Boat-steerers.—Mastheads.—The first Whale.—“There she blows!”—All hands excited.—Lowering the Boats.—“Pull, every man of you.”—A Fisherman’s Luck.—Whales again.—Cape Verd Islands.—St. Antonio.—St. Jago.—Fogo, the Island of Fire.—Going ashore.—A noisy Crowd.—Tom and the Portugee Donkey.—Manuel.—Now for Cape Horn.
It blew very fresh through the night, and could the old ship have come to an anchor about this time, we hardly think many of the “green hands” would have remained on board. But it was of no avail now to complain; all were in for it, and must take the evil with the good from this time until the end of the voyage. Nothing worthy of note transpired, with the exception of occasionally seeing a sail, until Wednesday, November 31st, being about five weeks out, when we saw our first sperm whale. But be
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CHAPTER III. Our Captain.—Officers.—Boat-steerers.—Foremast Hands.—Jo Bob.—Sailor’s Fare.—The Cask of Pies.—Mackey.—Lawrence asleep.
CHAPTER III. Our Captain.—Officers.—Boat-steerers.—Foremast Hands.—Jo Bob.—Sailor’s Fare.—The Cask of Pies.—Mackey.—Lawrence asleep.
The ship being by this time “shipshape and Bristol fashion,” and the crew pretty well acquainted with each other, we will give a brief description of the officers and crew. Our captain is a man of about fifty, and has “beat the wash” for the past twenty-six years. He is a thorough sailor, a skillful navigator, and an impartial and decisive judge, and one who commands the respect of both officers and crew. His lady is an agreeable, intelligent woman, well fitted to be the wife of such a man; his
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CHAPTER IV. Crossing the Equator.—Barney looking for the “Line.”—Spoke Ship “Java.”—Spoke Ship “Ontario,” homeward bound.—Writing Letters Home “under Difficulties.”—Sperm Whales again.—A Fast Boat.—The Red Flag.—The Flurry.—The Fluke-chain passed.
CHAPTER IV. Crossing the Equator.—Barney looking for the “Line.”—Spoke Ship “Java.”—Spoke Ship “Ontario,” homeward bound.—Writing Letters Home “under Difficulties.”—Sperm Whales again.—A Fast Boat.—The Red Flag.—The Flurry.—The Fluke-chain passed.
On the 13th of December, 18—, we crossed the equator in longitude 24° 30´ west. The weather was delightful; pleasant breezes and sunshine; the heat not uncomfortable, but just enough to make thin clothing desirable. Old Neptune did not favor us with a visit, although rather fearfully expected by some. This practice, we believe, has become obsolete, and we rejoice heartily at it, for a more barbarous one never was invented. Barney was very anxiously and busily engaged during the middle and mornin
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CHAPTER V. Description of the Sperm Whale.—Described externally.—Difference between the Sperm and Right Whale.
CHAPTER V. Description of the Sperm Whale.—Described externally.—Difference between the Sperm and Right Whale.
Before proceeding farther, perhaps it will be interesting to the reader if we give a brief description of the external form of the sperm whale. The following draft represents the shape of the animal, and the various dotted lines show the manner of dividing it, in order to “heave it in on deck.” The head of the whale presents in front a thick, blunt appearance, and constitutes about one third the length of the animal. At its junction with the body is a protuberance on its back, called the “bunch
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CHAPTER VI. “Cutting in.”
CHAPTER VI. “Cutting in.”
As we are now ready to “cut in” the whale, we will briefly explain the modus operandi . In the first place the decks are cleared, in order to have room to work. The ponderous cutting tackles are swayed up to the lower-mast head (the main), the strongest point any where above a ship’s deck. Large hawsers are then rove through these blocks, then through similar ones on deck, to the windlass, in the forward part of the ship. To the lower blocks are attached ponderous iron hooks, weighing over one h
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CHAPTER VII. “Trying out.”—“Stowing down.”—“Cleaning up.”—Gale off the River De la Plata.—Thunder and Lightning.—Narrow Escape of the Ship.
CHAPTER VII. “Trying out.”—“Stowing down.”—“Cleaning up.”—Gale off the River De la Plata.—Thunder and Lightning.—Narrow Escape of the Ship.
The whale is now cut in; then comes the process of “trying out.” In the centre of the deck, somewhat forward, are the try-works for the purpose of trying out the oil. It is a square place, built up with bricks and iron, about four feet high and ten square. It has two large iron pots in the centre, each one containing between three and four barrels, with furnaces underneath. The liquid spermaceti from the case is first put into the pots, the fires are lighted, and the process of “trying out” comm
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CHAPTER VIII. Preparing for Cape Horn.—Head Winds.—Staten Land.—Cape Horn.—Heavy Gale.—Porpoises and Albatross.—Mackey and the Third Mate.—Captured a Sperm Whale.—Preparing for Port.—The Anchor down.
CHAPTER VIII. Preparing for Cape Horn.—Head Winds.—Staten Land.—Cape Horn.—Heavy Gale.—Porpoises and Albatross.—Mackey and the Third Mate.—Captured a Sperm Whale.—Preparing for Port.—The Anchor down.
We now commenced making preparations for that much-dreaded place, Cape Horn. Took the anchors in on deck, and lashed them solid; also the boats from off the cranes, and secured every thing generally. We were now sailing along with fine breezes from the northward, but the coolness of the air reminded us that we were approaching the southernmost point of land. On the 13th of January the wind veered round to the south, and increased to a heavy gale. We reduced the sail to a close-reefed main-topsai
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CHAPTER IX. Talcahuana.—Its Streets.—Public Buildings.—Market.—Calaboose.—The Harbor.—Churches.—Paulparees.—Inhabitants.—Manners and Customs.—Getting off Water.—Mackey again in Trouble.—In the Calaboose.—Californians.—Climate and Products of Chili.—Horseback Riding.—Spanish Wake.—Desertion.—American Consul.—Mackey’s Oration.—Swimming ashore.—Departure.
CHAPTER IX. Talcahuana.—Its Streets.—Public Buildings.—Market.—Calaboose.—The Harbor.—Churches.—Paulparees.—Inhabitants.—Manners and Customs.—Getting off Water.—Mackey again in Trouble.—In the Calaboose.—Californians.—Climate and Products of Chili.—Horseback Riding.—Spanish Wake.—Desertion.—American Consul.—Mackey’s Oration.—Swimming ashore.—Departure.
Talcahuana is the sea-port of the city of Conception, and is situated at the head of a beautiful bay, protected from all winds by the high lands inclosing it. At the entrance of the harbor is the island of Karakina, on the north side of which is the passage, and on the south side the false passage, as it is called, not being navigable for ships. Abreast of the anchorage, which is immediately in front of the town, is a small fort, with but few guns, and in a very good position to do execution, wi
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CHAPTER X. Cruising.—Boats’-crew Watches.—Deserters by wholesale.—A large Reward.—Public Auction.—Juan Fernandez.—Peaches.—Robinson Crusoe’s Cave.—Fishing.—Ship “Java.”—Masa Fuero.—St. Felix.—St. Ambrose.—San Lorenzo.—Callao.—A Railroad.
CHAPTER X. Cruising.—Boats’-crew Watches.—Deserters by wholesale.—A large Reward.—Public Auction.—Juan Fernandez.—Peaches.—Robinson Crusoe’s Cave.—Fishing.—Ship “Java.”—Masa Fuero.—St. Felix.—St. Ambrose.—San Lorenzo.—Callao.—A Railroad.
We were now fairly at sea again, cruising for whales. We were now, as is customary for whalemen alone while on cruising ground, standing “boats’-crew watches.” It will be recollected that in a former chapter we explained the “regular watches” of a ship’s company; but this is something entirely different. The ship’s company are now divided into three equal portions, and each watch has only “four hours out” each night and “eight hours in,” instead of four and eight hours alternately, as in the reg
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CHAPTER XI. Payta.—Its Appearance.—Inhabitants.—Shipped three Spaniards.—Gamming.—Exchanged Boat-steerers.—Gloomy Forebodings.—Whales again.—Stove Boat.—Manuel overboard.—No Sunday off Soundings.—Mackey and the Mate.—Star-gazing.—Reflections.—A County Fair.—Lawrence in Trouble.
CHAPTER XI. Payta.—Its Appearance.—Inhabitants.—Shipped three Spaniards.—Gamming.—Exchanged Boat-steerers.—Gloomy Forebodings.—Whales again.—Stove Boat.—Manuel overboard.—No Sunday off Soundings.—Mackey and the Mate.—Star-gazing.—Reflections.—A County Fair.—Lawrence in Trouble.
On Thursday, 25th of April, we were off the anchorage of Payta. The land here presents a bleak, barren appearance; not a tree or shrub in sight; nothing but sand and rocks as far as the eye can reach. Water is furnished the inhabitants by persons who make it a business, and bring it a long distance in skins on mules. The streets of this town are narrow and dirty; the houses are miserable; women and men dissipated and ugly-looking; fleas abundant, and loafers plenty. While on shore here the capta
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CHAPTER XII. Marquesas Islands.—Dominica.—Its Appearance.—Visitors.—Tattooing.—The Chief.—His costly Dress.—Delivers his Papers.—A “Recommend.”—Society Islands.—Roratonga.—Its Appearance.—New York.—New Bedford.—Too many Friends.—The universal Remedy.—Fruit.—A thieving Set.—Missionaries.—Petty Tyrannies practiced.—Rev. John Williams.—His Death.—The staple Commodity.—The Desire for Sea.—Queen and Government.—Desertion.—General Losses.—Jo Bob’s Choice.—A merry Time.
CHAPTER XII. Marquesas Islands.—Dominica.—Its Appearance.—Visitors.—Tattooing.—The Chief.—His costly Dress.—Delivers his Papers.—A “Recommend.”—Society Islands.—Roratonga.—Its Appearance.—New York.—New Bedford.—Too many Friends.—The universal Remedy.—Fruit.—A thieving Set.—Missionaries.—Petty Tyrannies practiced.—Rev. John Williams.—His Death.—The staple Commodity.—The Desire for Sea.—Queen and Government.—Desertion.—General Losses.—Jo Bob’s Choice.—A merry Time.
On Thursday, June 6th, we raised the island of Dominica, one of the Marquesas group. This island presents a beautiful appearance from the sea. The thick groves of the cocoanut, orange, lime, and bread-fruit-trees, with the native huts occasionally peeping out from under the foliage; the mountains in the background, thickly studded with magnolia groves; a beautiful stream of water tickling down the sides of large mountains, here and there inclosed by the trees, are all plainly visible from the sh
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CHAPTER XIII. Making Passage to King Mill Group.—Fourth of July.—Byron’s Island.—Perote Island.—Drummond’s Island.—Sydenham’s Island.—Visit from the Natives.—Their Canoes.—Themselves.—Trade.—“Dittoes.”—Taking of the “Triton.”—A treacherous Portuguese.—A bloody Massacre.—A just Retribution.—The Kanaka’s Stratagem.—The Natives frightened.—Prisoners ashore.—A young Hero.—Hostages.—The Prisoners released.—Proceed to the Sandwich Islands.—Henderville’s Island.—Woodle’s Island.—Natives again.—“Teka moi moi.”—Young Cocoanuts.—Decidedly Jewish.—Easily satisfied.—Description of Natives.—The Females.—A large Fleet.—Comparisons.—Simpson’s Island.—Ship “Narragansett.”—Stove Boat.—Fisherman’s Luck.—Experiments in Mesmerism.—Somebody “sold.”
CHAPTER XIII. Making Passage to King Mill Group.—Fourth of July.—Byron’s Island.—Perote Island.—Drummond’s Island.—Sydenham’s Island.—Visit from the Natives.—Their Canoes.—Themselves.—Trade.—“Dittoes.”—Taking of the “Triton.”—A treacherous Portuguese.—A bloody Massacre.—A just Retribution.—The Kanaka’s Stratagem.—The Natives frightened.—Prisoners ashore.—A young Hero.—Hostages.—The Prisoners released.—Proceed to the Sandwich Islands.—Henderville’s Island.—Woodle’s Island.—Natives again.—“Teka moi moi.”—Young Cocoanuts.—Decidedly Jewish.—Easily satisfied.—Description of Natives.—The Females.—A large Fleet.—Comparisons.—Simpson’s Island.—Ship “Narragansett.”—Stove Boat.—Fisherman’s Luck.—Experiments in Mesmerism.—Somebody “sold.”
We were now making passage for the “King Mill Group,” which is a group of small islands greatly celebrated for being a good sperm whaling ground. Our captain had filled the same ship in which we now were on this ground but a few years before, and it was to be our principal place of cruising for a year or fourteen months, at least. And now we come to Thursday, July 4th—the never-to-be-forgotten Fourth of July—our first one at sea. While our friends at home are celebrating the anniversary of Ameri
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CHAPTER XIV. Pitt’s Island.—Knox and Charlotte’s Islands.—Base Conduct.—Thieving.—Jack and Manuel.—Almost a “dead Nigger.”—Bark “Belle.”—Ship “Boy.”—Wreck of the “Flying Fox.”—Plundered by the Natives.—Hall’s Island.—Desertion.—My Man Friday.—A wet Berth again.—Ship “Hector.”—Anxiety for Letters.—A Canoe in distress.—A heart-rending Sight.—Gratitude of the Natives.—Pleasant Island.—Its Natives.—Murder of white Men.—Brig “Inga.”—Thieves again.—Search-warrant issued.—Property found, Culprit tried and punished.—A heavy Squall.—Strong’s Island.
CHAPTER XIV. Pitt’s Island.—Knox and Charlotte’s Islands.—Base Conduct.—Thieving.—Jack and Manuel.—Almost a “dead Nigger.”—Bark “Belle.”—Ship “Boy.”—Wreck of the “Flying Fox.”—Plundered by the Natives.—Hall’s Island.—Desertion.—My Man Friday.—A wet Berth again.—Ship “Hector.”—Anxiety for Letters.—A Canoe in distress.—A heart-rending Sight.—Gratitude of the Natives.—Pleasant Island.—Its Natives.—Murder of white Men.—Brig “Inga.”—Thieves again.—Search-warrant issued.—Property found, Culprit tried and punished.—A heavy Squall.—Strong’s Island.
We were now getting down to the more westward of the group, and on Sunday, the 25th, saw Pitt’s Island. This is one of the finest-looking islands of the whole group; the land being higher, with more verdure. The next day we saw Knox’s Island. The natives of this and Charlotte’s Island are now at war, instigated, we are sorry to learn, by the base conduct of an American whaling captain, who has taken sides with one party, and who takes great pleasure in slaughtering those of the other side. Whene
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CHAPTER XV. Strong’s Island.—King.—Canker.—Dress.—Chiefs.—Description of the Island.—Large Island.—Small Island.—Productions.—Wild Game.—Canals.—Stone Walls.—Who built them?—Ruins.—Suppositions.—A Rebellion.—Customs.—Queen.—Princes and Princesses.—Sekane.—Cæsar.—Natives.—Females.—“Strong’s Island Trowsers.”—Employments.—Houses.—Marriages.—Sports.—Canoes.—Carva.—Banyan-tree.—Religion.—“Blueskin.”—Traditions.—Priests.—Rites and Ceremonies.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Rotumah Tom.—Food of the Natives.—Blueskin and his Procession.—Friday’s Opinion.—The Feast.—“Very good,” but think we won’t indulge.—Choose our “Hotel.”—An unpleasant Surprise.—“Planter.”—Mutiny and its Consequences.—Desertion.—One kind of Navigation.—A Stroll to Large Island.—Friday and the Taboo.—Incidents in Port.—Weighed Anchor.—“Mary Frazier.”—Death and Burial of Mr. S.—A few random Thoughts.
CHAPTER XV. Strong’s Island.—King.—Canker.—Dress.—Chiefs.—Description of the Island.—Large Island.—Small Island.—Productions.—Wild Game.—Canals.—Stone Walls.—Who built them?—Ruins.—Suppositions.—A Rebellion.—Customs.—Queen.—Princes and Princesses.—Sekane.—Cæsar.—Natives.—Females.—“Strong’s Island Trowsers.”—Employments.—Houses.—Marriages.—Sports.—Canoes.—Carva.—Banyan-tree.—Religion.—“Blueskin.”—Traditions.—Priests.—Rites and Ceremonies.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Rotumah Tom.—Food of the Natives.—Blueskin and his Procession.—Friday’s Opinion.—The Feast.—“Very good,” but think we won’t indulge.—Choose our “Hotel.”—An unpleasant Surprise.—“Planter.”—Mutiny and its Consequences.—Desertion.—One kind of Navigation.—A Stroll to Large Island.—Friday and the Taboo.—Incidents in Port.—Weighed Anchor.—“Mary Frazier.”—Death and Burial of Mr. S.—A few random Thoughts.
For nine long and weary months had the “Emily” been from port. During this time but few of the ship’s company had put foot upon land, and glad indeed were we when Strong’s Island hove in sight. We were experiencing heavy weather, but on Thursday, December 12th, the wind gradually grew less boisterous, and as we neared the land, steering for the passage, died away, leaving us at its mouth in a dead calm; but we down boats, and every man “pulled with a will,” and soon towed the old ship in, and at
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CHAPTER XVI. “A happy New-year to all.”—Rather poor Luck.—Pitt’s Island again.—Description.—Natives.—King.—Religious Belief.—Funeral Ceremonies.—“Jentsh.”—Houses.—Costume.—Food.—Language.—Weapons of War.—Mode of Warfare.—Return to Strong’s Island.—Improvements.—Singing-school.—The Royal Family to Dinner.—Canker’s Guilt.—Poisoned Carva.—Return to our “Hotel.”—Our Suspicions strengthened.—“Stop Thief!”—Gas.—New Zealand Dance.—Grand Feast.—Tall Dancing.—“Cheers” by the Audience.—“Go it, Cæsar!”—Grand Boat-race.—The Boasters beaten.—Another great Feast.—Ball Alley.—Narrow Escape of the Ship.—Departure for Guam.
CHAPTER XVI. “A happy New-year to all.”—Rather poor Luck.—Pitt’s Island again.—Description.—Natives.—King.—Religious Belief.—Funeral Ceremonies.—“Jentsh.”—Houses.—Costume.—Food.—Language.—Weapons of War.—Mode of Warfare.—Return to Strong’s Island.—Improvements.—Singing-school.—The Royal Family to Dinner.—Canker’s Guilt.—Poisoned Carva.—Return to our “Hotel.”—Our Suspicions strengthened.—“Stop Thief!”—Gas.—New Zealand Dance.—Grand Feast.—Tall Dancing.—“Cheers” by the Audience.—“Go it, Cæsar!”—Grand Boat-race.—The Boasters beaten.—Another great Feast.—Ball Alley.—Narrow Escape of the Ship.—Departure for Guam.
How different the “New-year” at sea from that at home, were our thoughts this “New-year’s morning” on first awakening. But we wished all on board a “happy New-year,” and then the good folks at home came in for a share of our prayers, and we could not but think that, while they were enjoying the choicest viands, our “New-year’s dinner” must consist of hard bread and salt junk, with a “plum duff” for dessert. We were again bound for the Group, to try our luck for whales. And we had our “luck,” for
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CHAPTER XVII. Guam.—Invasion of the Ladrone Islands by the Spaniards in 1554.—Getting off Recruits.—Fruit.—Climate.—Captain Anderson.—Massacre of Captain Luce and Boat’s Crew.—Proceed to Japan Cruising-ground.—Ship “Boy.”—Boat’s Crew taken down by a Whale.—Albicore and Skipjack.—“Our Luck” again.—The Spell broken.—Bark “Medina.”—Manuel and the Hog.—A slight Tap.
CHAPTER XVII. Guam.—Invasion of the Ladrone Islands by the Spaniards in 1554.—Getting off Recruits.—Fruit.—Climate.—Captain Anderson.—Massacre of Captain Luce and Boat’s Crew.—Proceed to Japan Cruising-ground.—Ship “Boy.”—Boat’s Crew taken down by a Whale.—Albicore and Skipjack.—“Our Luck” again.—The Spell broken.—Bark “Medina.”—Manuel and the Hog.—A slight Tap.
Sunday, May 4th, we arrived at Guam. This is a beautiful island, of rather high land, and resembles the American coast more than any land we saw during our wanderings. The surface presents a rolling appearance, the land looks fertile, and it is interspersed with dense foliage. This island is the principal one of the group of the Ladrone Islands. These islands were invaded in 1554 by the Spaniards, but their conquest was not completed till the year 1592, although they had, during the different ye
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CHAPTER XVIII. Food of the Sperm Whale.—Manner of Feeding.—Swimming.—Breathing.—Herding.
CHAPTER XVIII. Food of the Sperm Whale.—Manner of Feeding.—Swimming.—Breathing.—Herding.
In the many books which have been written of whaling voyages, we recollect nowhere to have seen a natural history of the sperm whale, and we trust it will not be uninteresting to the reader if we give it in the present volume. It can not but be instructive, at all events, and, being satisfied on that point, we shall proceed; and, first, The Food of the Sperm Whale .—This food consists almost wholly of an animal called by whalemen “squid,” and by naturalists the “ Sepia octopus .” This squid form
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CHAPTER XIX. Nature of Sperm Whales’ Food.—“Sepia Octopus.”—Nautilus.
CHAPTER XIX. Nature of Sperm Whales’ Food.—“Sepia Octopus.”—Nautilus.
It has been before stated that the food of the sperm whale consists almost wholly of an animal of the cuttle-fish kind, called by whalemen “squid,” and by naturalists “ Sepia octopus ;” and at times, when he is near the shore, he feeds upon small fish, which are denominated “rock cod,” and which sometimes approach the size of a moderate salmon. But the instances in which fish of this description have been ejected from the stomach of the sperm whale are but rare, while every day’s experience prov
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CHAPTER XX. Close of the first “Season” on Japan.—Making Passage to the Group.—“Land ho!”.—“Breathing-places for Sailors.”—Henderville’s Island.—Unpleasant Prospect.—Narrow Escape from the Breakers.—A large Whale.—An ugly Customer.—Ocean Island Dick.—Ocean Island.—“Some Pumpkins.”—Bound for Strong’s Island.—Calms.—“Blow, ye gentle Breezes.”—At our “Hotel” once more.—Hospitality of the Natives.—A diabolical Scheme.—Anger of the King.—Narrow Escape of all Hands from Poisoning.—Wilds and the Queen.—A sudden Awakening.—Wild Boar.—Join in the Chase.—Brave Men.—The Boar presented in great State to the King.—Bravery of the “White Man.”—“Hog not Dog.”—At sea again.
CHAPTER XX. Close of the first “Season” on Japan.—Making Passage to the Group.—“Land ho!”.—“Breathing-places for Sailors.”—Henderville’s Island.—Unpleasant Prospect.—Narrow Escape from the Breakers.—A large Whale.—An ugly Customer.—Ocean Island Dick.—Ocean Island.—“Some Pumpkins.”—Bound for Strong’s Island.—Calms.—“Blow, ye gentle Breezes.”—At our “Hotel” once more.—Hospitality of the Natives.—A diabolical Scheme.—Anger of the King.—Narrow Escape of all Hands from Poisoning.—Wilds and the Queen.—A sudden Awakening.—Wild Boar.—Join in the Chase.—Brave Men.—The Boar presented in great State to the King.—Bravery of the “White Man.”—“Hog not Dog.”—At sea again.
At the close of our first “season” on Japan, we found ourselves with two hundred and fifty barrels more of oil than when we came on to the ground, and we felt greater encouragement, though we were yet very poorly off, being nearly two years from home, with but five hundred and fifty barrels. However, the weather admonished us that we must be leaving those regions; and accordingly, on the 10th of September, we pointed the “Emily’s” head to the southward, and, crowding on the “kites,” we were soon
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CHAPTER XXI. Blackfish.—Ship “Phocion.”—Ship “Ganges.”—Bark “Belle.”—“Chips” in Prison.—Friday’s Departure.—Sorrowful Leave-taking.—Ship “Bengal.”—Ship “Lion.”—Henderville’s Island once more.—Dick Simpson.—Ship “John and Elizabeth.”—Another New Year.—“Music by the Band.”—Variations.—An “Amateur” Concert.—Bark “Alfred Tyler.”—Wreck of the “Ontario.”—Ocean Island again.—Freshwater Cavern.—Superstitions.—Beachcombers.—Rascally Operations.—Convicts.—Taboo.—Natives.—Climate.—Houses.—Religious Belief.—Sharp Practice.—Characteristics.—Whaling.—Pleasant Island.—Disturbance with the Natives.—Ship “Mohawk.”—Pitcairn’s Island.—Mutiny of the “Bounty’s” Crew.—Death of Mrs. P.—“To my Husband.”—Massacre at Covill’s Island.—Whaling again.—A few stray Thoughts upon that subject.—Heavy Gale.—A “Gemman ob Color.”—His splendid Dress.—Passage to Guam.
CHAPTER XXI. Blackfish.—Ship “Phocion.”—Ship “Ganges.”—Bark “Belle.”—“Chips” in Prison.—Friday’s Departure.—Sorrowful Leave-taking.—Ship “Bengal.”—Ship “Lion.”—Henderville’s Island once more.—Dick Simpson.—Ship “John and Elizabeth.”—Another New Year.—“Music by the Band.”—Variations.—An “Amateur” Concert.—Bark “Alfred Tyler.”—Wreck of the “Ontario.”—Ocean Island again.—Freshwater Cavern.—Superstitions.—Beachcombers.—Rascally Operations.—Convicts.—Taboo.—Natives.—Climate.—Houses.—Religious Belief.—Sharp Practice.—Characteristics.—Whaling.—Pleasant Island.—Disturbance with the Natives.—Ship “Mohawk.”—Pitcairn’s Island.—Mutiny of the “Bounty’s” Crew.—Death of Mrs. P.—“To my Husband.”—Massacre at Covill’s Island.—Whaling again.—A few stray Thoughts upon that subject.—Heavy Gale.—A “Gemman ob Color.”—His splendid Dress.—Passage to Guam.
We were again at our old business of cruising and whaling, but with poor success. On Friday, October 31st, we captured three blackfish. These are a species of whale yielding from one to five barrels of oil, of an inferior quality, and almost black, from which color the fish seems to have derived its name. Monday, November 3d, we spoke the “Phocion,” of New Bedford, Captain Nichols, and the day following the “Ganges,” of Nantucket, cutting in a sperm whale, which assured us that others were fortu
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CHAPTER XXII. Island of Rota.—Appearance.—Streets and Houses.—Inhabitants.—Governor.—Guam.—Umata Bay.—Procuring Water.—Marisa.—Its Appearance.—Port of Apia.—Fort.—Liberty.—A splendid Ride.—Boarding-houses.—Police.—Reflections.—Inhabitants.—Choppers.—A cowardly Murder.—Bombardment of the Palace.—Attend Mass.—Toddy.—Streets.—Houses.—Palace.—Calaboose.—Cock-fighting.—Seminary.—Insurrection of Prisoners.—Females.—Take a Stroll.—Ruins.—Reservoir.—Tobacco.—Betel Nut.—Captain Anderson.—Rebellion.—Jollification.—A novel Mode of choosing a Governor.—Congratulations.—Parade.—Aguadente.—Caroline Islanders.—Last Day on Shore.—Arguing the Point.—Disarming the Guard.—“Where is my Musket?”—Visit to the Fort.—Strange Doings.—Ready for Sea.
CHAPTER XXII. Island of Rota.—Appearance.—Streets and Houses.—Inhabitants.—Governor.—Guam.—Umata Bay.—Procuring Water.—Marisa.—Its Appearance.—Port of Apia.—Fort.—Liberty.—A splendid Ride.—Boarding-houses.—Police.—Reflections.—Inhabitants.—Choppers.—A cowardly Murder.—Bombardment of the Palace.—Attend Mass.—Toddy.—Streets.—Houses.—Palace.—Calaboose.—Cock-fighting.—Seminary.—Insurrection of Prisoners.—Females.—Take a Stroll.—Ruins.—Reservoir.—Tobacco.—Betel Nut.—Captain Anderson.—Rebellion.—Jollification.—A novel Mode of choosing a Governor.—Congratulations.—Parade.—Aguadente.—Caroline Islanders.—Last Day on Shore.—Arguing the Point.—Disarming the Guard.—“Where is my Musket?”—Visit to the Fort.—Strange Doings.—Ready for Sea.
With a strong breeze and all sail out, we were not long in reaching the Ladrone Islands. Tuesday, April 6th, at daylight, saw the island of Rota, bearing west half north, distant thirty miles. In the afternoon, in company with a boat from the “Mohawk,” we went on shore and procured a few hogs, yams, and fruit. This island is one of the most magnificent in appearance from the sea that we have yet seen. The land is moderately high, and thickly covered with evergreen foliage, with an occasional ope
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CHAPTER XXIII. Bailey’s Island.—Turtle.—Whaling.—Ship “James Allen.”—Water-spouts.—A heavy Gale.—Monotony.—A Swimming Adventure.—Ship “Atkins Adams.”—Spanish Jack again.—Tow-line Tea.—Captain’s stump Speech.—A large Whale.—Bark “Antelope.”—Strange Incident.—Passage to the Group.—Pitt’s Island.—Bark “Smyrna.”—A rummy Set.—Ship “Susan.”—Fearful Tragedy.—Passage to Strong’s Island.—Ship “Atlantic.”—Ship “Charles W. Morgan.”—“At home” once more.—Rev. Mr. Snow.—Characteristic Meanness.—Rotumah Dance.—Feast and Dance.—Sickness of Mr. L.—Divine Service on Board.—New Zealand Native.—Farewell to Strong’s Island.
CHAPTER XXIII. Bailey’s Island.—Turtle.—Whaling.—Ship “James Allen.”—Water-spouts.—A heavy Gale.—Monotony.—A Swimming Adventure.—Ship “Atkins Adams.”—Spanish Jack again.—Tow-line Tea.—Captain’s stump Speech.—A large Whale.—Bark “Antelope.”—Strange Incident.—Passage to the Group.—Pitt’s Island.—Bark “Smyrna.”—A rummy Set.—Ship “Susan.”—Fearful Tragedy.—Passage to Strong’s Island.—Ship “Atlantic.”—Ship “Charles W. Morgan.”—“At home” once more.—Rev. Mr. Snow.—Characteristic Meanness.—Rotumah Dance.—Feast and Dance.—Sickness of Mr. L.—Divine Service on Board.—New Zealand Native.—Farewell to Strong’s Island.
Nothing of interest transpired on the passage, unless we may speak of continued boisterous weather, until Wednesday, May 4th, when we sighted Bailey’s Island, one of the Bonin Group. Here we sent a boat on shore, and procured a load of sweet potatoes, watermelons, green corn, etc., and about twenty large turtle, which abound here in great numbers. We need not say that “turtle soup” soon became no luxury with us. We cruised around these islands about a month, taking two large whales in the mean t
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CHAPTER XXIV. Success of the “Mohawk.”—Ship “Napoleon.”—Whaling.—Bound to the southward.—Sickness and Death of Mr. L.—Ship “Roscoe.”—Pleasant Island.—Massacre of the “Inga’s” Crew.—Narrow Escape.—Ship “Hannibal.”—Christmas and New-Year.—Ship “William Tell.”—Ship “John Wells.”—Violent Death of Captain Hussey.—Bound for Hong Kong.—H. B. M.’s Brig “Serpent.”—Island of Rota.—Wild Boar.—A general Stampede.—“All Hands and the Cook.”—Man the Victor.—Heavy Gales.—Gad’s Rock.—Formosa.—Bashee Islands.
CHAPTER XXIV. Success of the “Mohawk.”—Ship “Napoleon.”—Whaling.—Bound to the southward.—Sickness and Death of Mr. L.—Ship “Roscoe.”—Pleasant Island.—Massacre of the “Inga’s” Crew.—Narrow Escape.—Ship “Hannibal.”—Christmas and New-Year.—Ship “William Tell.”—Ship “John Wells.”—Violent Death of Captain Hussey.—Bound for Hong Kong.—H. B. M.’s Brig “Serpent.”—Island of Rota.—Wild Boar.—A general Stampede.—“All Hands and the Cook.”—Man the Victor.—Heavy Gales.—Gad’s Rock.—Formosa.—Bashee Islands.
On Friday, November 12th, soon after leaving Strong’s Island, we gammed with the “Mohawk,” our old friends, and learned that they had taken eight hundred barrels of oil the previous season on Japan. We could not but envy them, as we were one year from home when they sailed. But we felt that if we could but see the whales, we would soon add to the one thousand barrels we had in our hold. A few days afterward, at Ocean Island, we spoke the ship “Napoleon,” of New Bedford. The following day we rais
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CHAPTER XXV. Chinese Fishermen.—Pedro Blanca.—Preparing for Port.—Chinese Pilots.—Beating up the Passage.—Hong Kong.—“Hail Columbia.”—The “Susquehanna.”—Stars and Stripes.—Chinese Merchants.—Washerwomen.—Bumboats.—Dick Simpson and John Chinaman.—Chinese mode of Trading.—Sanpan.—A floating Community.—Boston Jack.—Victoria, its Situation, Streets, etc.—Chinese Barbers.—Fortune-tellers.—Policemen.—Chinese New-year.—A busy Time.—Firing a Salute.—Arrival of Governor Bonham.—English Barracks.—Churches.—Hotels.—Dog or Horse?—Visit from Men-of-war’s-men.—Tom and the Lieutenant.—Commodore Perry.—Midshipmen.—Visit to the Barracks.—Theatre.—Fort.—Make some Purchases.—Counterfeit Money.—Tricks of the Chinese Merchants.—Females.—Gambling.—Cut-throats.—Short-tailed Gentlemen.—Chinese Funeral.—Marriages.—Education.—Ouang Ouci Yuen.—Infanticide.—Twenty-second of February.—Chinese Artists.—Their Powers of Imitation.—Sam Shu.—Domestic Life of the Chinese.—Food.—Temple, or Joss House.—Worship of Idols.—Joss Sticks.—Tom as a Yankee Naval Officer.—Chinese Men-of-war.—Pirates.—Chinese Theatre.—Masonic Temple.—The Bethel.—Chinaman and his Shoes.—The Arrest, Trial, and Acquittal.—Departure for Sea.
CHAPTER XXV. Chinese Fishermen.—Pedro Blanca.—Preparing for Port.—Chinese Pilots.—Beating up the Passage.—Hong Kong.—“Hail Columbia.”—The “Susquehanna.”—Stars and Stripes.—Chinese Merchants.—Washerwomen.—Bumboats.—Dick Simpson and John Chinaman.—Chinese mode of Trading.—Sanpan.—A floating Community.—Boston Jack.—Victoria, its Situation, Streets, etc.—Chinese Barbers.—Fortune-tellers.—Policemen.—Chinese New-year.—A busy Time.—Firing a Salute.—Arrival of Governor Bonham.—English Barracks.—Churches.—Hotels.—Dog or Horse?—Visit from Men-of-war’s-men.—Tom and the Lieutenant.—Commodore Perry.—Midshipmen.—Visit to the Barracks.—Theatre.—Fort.—Make some Purchases.—Counterfeit Money.—Tricks of the Chinese Merchants.—Females.—Gambling.—Cut-throats.—Short-tailed Gentlemen.—Chinese Funeral.—Marriages.—Education.—Ouang Ouci Yuen.—Infanticide.—Twenty-second of February.—Chinese Artists.—Their Powers of Imitation.—Sam Shu.—Domestic Life of the Chinese.—Food.—Temple, or Joss House.—Worship of Idols.—Joss Sticks.—Tom as a Yankee Naval Officer.—Chinese Men-of-war.—Pirates.—Chinese Theatre.—Masonic Temple.—The Bethel.—Chinaman and his Shoes.—The Arrest, Trial, and Acquittal.—Departure for Sea.
Wednesday, February 9th, brought us in close proximity to the land of the Celestials, as the numerous fishing-junks bore testimony. The same day we sighted Pedro Blanca, which is an island lying near Hong Kong. At 10 A.M. commenced bending the cables, and making other preparations for coming to an anchor. As we neared the land we saw great numbers of pilot-boats steering for us, one of which soon reached us; the pilot came on board, with his long tail, or queu, hanging behind him, and presenting
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CHAPTER XXVI. Fishing Junks.—New Companions.—Stove Boat, yet good Luck.—Heavy Gales.—Bashee Islands.—Loo Choos.—The “Reaper” again.—Whaling Ship “Jireh Perry.”—Ship “Alabama.”—“Gamming.”—Ship “Roscoe.”—A Cure for “Bruisers.”—Ship “E. L. B. Jenney.”—Bark “Empress.”—Ormsby’s Peak.—Bonin Islands.—Turtles.—Peel’s Island.—A narrow Escape.—Bonin Island Inhabitants.—Japan Expedition.—An old Shipmate.—Another Runaway.—Fourth of July Celebration.—Ship “Rambler.”—Ship “Hope.”—Parting with an old Friend.—Fishing.—The last Lowering.—Bound for the Sandwich Islands.—Maui and Molokai.—Lahaina.—Anchor down.—Description of Lahaina.—King’s Palace.—Lahainaluna.—Rules and Regulations.—Sports and Pastimes.—Letters from Home.—Productions of Maui.—Captain M‘Culloch.—Sad News.—Death of Stoddard.—Voracity of the Shark.—Kanaka Church.—Small-pox.
CHAPTER XXVI. Fishing Junks.—New Companions.—Stove Boat, yet good Luck.—Heavy Gales.—Bashee Islands.—Loo Choos.—The “Reaper” again.—Whaling Ship “Jireh Perry.”—Ship “Alabama.”—“Gamming.”—Ship “Roscoe.”—A Cure for “Bruisers.”—Ship “E. L. B. Jenney.”—Bark “Empress.”—Ormsby’s Peak.—Bonin Islands.—Turtles.—Peel’s Island.—A narrow Escape.—Bonin Island Inhabitants.—Japan Expedition.—An old Shipmate.—Another Runaway.—Fourth of July Celebration.—Ship “Rambler.”—Ship “Hope.”—Parting with an old Friend.—Fishing.—The last Lowering.—Bound for the Sandwich Islands.—Maui and Molokai.—Lahaina.—Anchor down.—Description of Lahaina.—King’s Palace.—Lahainaluna.—Rules and Regulations.—Sports and Pastimes.—Letters from Home.—Productions of Maui.—Captain M‘Culloch.—Sad News.—Death of Stoddard.—Voracity of the Shark.—Kanaka Church.—Small-pox.
Thursday morning, March 3d, saw us clear of the land, with no wind, and enveloped in a thick fog. At noon the fog commenced rising, and as it continued slowly, exposed to our view a swarm of fishing junks. This did not create a very pleasant feeling in our midst, as we well knew that many of the so-called fishing junks were only pirates in disguise. One of them sent a boat with some fish, which we purchased, and then sent him off, as we did not like his appearance. It was still calm, and all han
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CHAPTER XXVII. Legend of Kinau and Tuanoa: a Tale of the Sandwich Islands.
CHAPTER XXVII. Legend of Kinau and Tuanoa: a Tale of the Sandwich Islands.
A heavy gloom was upon the minds of the people of Wauhoo in consequence of the recent death of their king, Hoapili. Melancholy filled their hearts; wailings and lamentations of various kinds were heard over all parts of the island. Every grade mourned for the regal victim of death; and men, women, and children were seen tearing their hair, wounding themselves with sharp-pointed weapons, tearing their flesh with sharks’ teeth, and breaking their own front teeth with stones, to convince each other
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CHAPTER XXVIII. “Homeward bound” at last.—The prevailing Feeling.—Wauhoo and Atoowi.—“Stowaways.”—Farewell to the Sandwich Islands.—Ship “Uncas.”—On the Equator.—Whytootucke.—Roratongo.—Meeting of old Friends.—Interesting Missionary Incidents.—A good Reason.—Good-by to Roratongo.—Preparing for Cape Horn.—Christmas.—A heavy Gale.—Off Cape Horn.—New Experiences.—In the Atlantic again.—Ship “Betsey Williams.”—Brazilian Coast.—North of the Line.—Hurra for Yankee Land.—Brig “Alpha.”—Try-works overboard.—Scudding off Bermuda.—Gulf Stream.—Soundings.—Old “Hard-a-lee.”—The old Adage.—“Home at last!”—Conclusion.
CHAPTER XXVIII. “Homeward bound” at last.—The prevailing Feeling.—Wauhoo and Atoowi.—“Stowaways.”—Farewell to the Sandwich Islands.—Ship “Uncas.”—On the Equator.—Whytootucke.—Roratongo.—Meeting of old Friends.—Interesting Missionary Incidents.—A good Reason.—Good-by to Roratongo.—Preparing for Cape Horn.—Christmas.—A heavy Gale.—Off Cape Horn.—New Experiences.—In the Atlantic again.—Ship “Betsey Williams.”—Brazilian Coast.—North of the Line.—Hurra for Yankee Land.—Brig “Alpha.”—Try-works overboard.—Scudding off Bermuda.—Gulf Stream.—Soundings.—Old “Hard-a-lee.”—The old Adage.—“Home at last!”—Conclusion.
To the reader who has followed us through the wanderings of more than four years, we tender our thanks, and beg his indulgence through our “homeward bound” passage, where we will take leave of him, with the kindest wishes for his prosperity and happiness. On Monday, October 31st, we commenced our preparations for sea. All were anxiously longing for the time to come when we should see the ship’s head pointed toward home. We had discharged several men who shipped with us at different times during
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