Rock-Climbing In The English Lake District - free ebook by Owen Glynne Jones

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Rock-Climbing In The English Lake District

Owen Glynne Jones

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PUBLISHERS’ NOTE.

PUBLISHERS’ NOTE.

The rapid exhaustion of the first edition of Mr. Owen Glynne Jones’ book on ‘Rock-climbing in the English Lake District,’ and further numerous enquiries for copies of this unique and invaluable work, induced us to make arrangements for the publication of another issue. A third edition has now become necessary. Since the first edition appeared in 1897, several important new climbs have been made, most of which have been written about by the author, and are here found just as they left his pen. Of

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PREFACE.

PREFACE.

I feel I owe a word of apology to the readers of this brief and inadequate memoir of a dead friend. At the request of Jones’ most intimate friends I have compiled it in the scanty leisure moments of a few weeks of a busy life, too few to do justice to my theme. I wish to return my heartiest thanks to those of his friends who have so quickly and generously aided me with the materials at their disposal, especially to Mr. F. W. Hill, Dr. W. E. Sumpner, the brothers Abraham, of Keswick; Mr. W. J. Wi

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CHAPTER I EARLY LIFE AND FIRST CLIMBS

CHAPTER I EARLY LIFE AND FIRST CLIMBS

Owen Glynne Jones was born on November 2nd, 1867. A Welshman by blood, he was a Londoner by birth, for he first saw the light of day in Clarendon Street, Paddington. His father, Mr. David Jones, was a carpenter and builder, and the son commenced his education at a local school. Of his early life there is little to tell. He seems to have spent his holidays in Wales, and there to have developed, among what may without inaccuracy be called his native mountains, that passion for climbing which made

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CHAPTER II CONQUERING THE ALPS

CHAPTER II CONQUERING THE ALPS

In the autumn of 1891 Owen Jones was an unsuccessful candidate for the Professorship of Physics at University College, Aberystwyth, and almost immediately afterwards he was the successful candidate for the post of Physics Master in the City of London School, which he was occupying at the time of his death. In the previous year, 1890, he had taken his B.Sc. degree in London University, coming out third in the list of First Class Honours in Experimental Physics. These facts are mentioned here now,

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CHAPTER III THE LAST SEASON IN THE ALPS

CHAPTER III THE LAST SEASON IN THE ALPS

I come now to the last season in the Alps, the season of 1899. The first part of his holiday was spent at Zermatt, and then he and Hill met by arrangement at the Kurhaus at Arolla. They soon got to work, beginning with the two Dents de Veisivi (the scene of the accident to the Hopkinsons the previous year) and the Dent Perroc, in twelve hours from the Kurhaus and back. Then followed the Aiguille de la Za by the face, a traverse of all the peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges, Mont Blanc de Seilon and t

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OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF THE CHIEF ROUTES

OUTLINE DRAWINGS OF THE CHIEF ROUTES

Some eight years ago chance led me to the Lake District for the first time, and a kindly acquaintance whom I then met at Wastdale taught me something of the joys of rock-climbing. Since that occasion every holiday has been spent on the mountains, either in Cumberland or North Wales or Switzerland, and they have taught me much that is worth knowing and that when once learnt can never be forgotten. Men with the highest literary qualifications have written of the charm of mountaineering, and every

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Easy Courses.

Easy Courses.

Deep Ghyll, by the west wall traverse. Cust’s Gully, Great End. Traverse across Gable Crag. ‘Sheep Walk,’ Gable Crag. D Gully, Pike’s Crag. Broad Stand. Needle Gully. ‘Slab and Notch’ Route, Pillar Rock. Great End Central Gully (ordinary ways). South-east Gully, Great End....

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Moderate Courses.

Moderate Courses.

West Climb, Pillar Rock. C Gully, Pike’s Crag. A Gully, Pike’s Crag. Bottle-nosed Pinnacle Ridge. Westmorland Crag, Great Gable. Penrith Climb, Scawfell. Scawfell Chimney. Old Wall Route. Pillar Rock, East Side. Deep Ghyll (ordinary route). Scawfell Pinnacle (short way up). Dolly Waggon Pike Gully. Raven Crag Chimney, Great Gable. Crag Fell Pinnacles, Ennerdale. Gable Crag Central Gully (ordinary way). Black Chimney (High Stile). Pendlebury Traverse Route, Pillar Rock. Combe Ghyll. Fleetwith Gul

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Difficult Courses.

Difficult Courses.

Deep Ghyll West Wall Climb. Great End Central Gully (chimney finish). Pillar Rock by Central Jordan. The Doctor’s Chimney. Shamrock Buttress. Pillar Rock by West Jordan. Kern Knotts Chimney. Little Gully, Pavey Ark. Great Gully, Pavey Ark. Gable Crag Central Gully (direct finish). Oblique Chimney Gable Crag. Gable Needle. Arrowhead Ridge (direct climb). Pillar Rock Far West Jordan. Gimmer Crag Chimney. Doe Crag, Great Gully. Pillar Rock by the Great Chimney. The B Chimney, Pike’s Crag. Scawfell

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Exceptionally Severe Courses.

Exceptionally Severe Courses.

Doe Crag, Intermediate Gully. Scawfell Pinnacle, High Man (direct from Deep Ghyll). Gimmer Crag, B route. The Abbey Buttress, Great Gable. Screes Great Gully (direct). Doe Crag, North Gully. Gimmer Crag, A Route. Toreador Gully, Buttermere. Birkness Chimney, Buttermere. Warn Gill, Buttermere. Haskett Gully, Scoat Fell. Doe Crag, Easter Gully, O. G. Jones’ Route. Scawfell Pinnacle viâ Low Man by Deep Ghyll, Gibson’s Chimney. Scawfell Pinnacle by Deep Ghyll, O. G. Jones’ Route. Kern Knotts Crack.

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CHAPTER I PIKE’S CRAG

CHAPTER I PIKE’S CRAG

The Pikes of Scawfell are bold and picturesque, but their precipices are slight and climbers can find but little on them that needs the use of a rope. One genuine exception must be made in favour of Pike’s Crag, the rock that guards the Pikes end of Mickledore. Here a good deal of practice may be obtained, and although in comparison with Scawfell Crag over the way we may feel that everything is in miniature, yet the quality of the work is good and some of the pitches really severe. Few people se

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CHAPTER II DEEP GHYLL. THE GREAT CHIMNEY AND PROFESSOR’S CHIMNEY

CHAPTER II DEEP GHYLL. THE GREAT CHIMNEY AND PROFESSOR’S CHIMNEY

Deep Ghyll. —This will remain for long a favourite resort of climbers, partly because the two pitches are always interesting and may be turned in so many different ways, partly because the gully gathers annually a big snow drift, which can generally be relied upon between Christmas and Easter to afford some practice in the use of the ice-axe, and partly because the rock scenery is of the finest character throughout. The ghyll has been familiar to the visitors of Scawfell for many years. It was f

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CHAPTER III THE RAKE’S PROGRESS AND CERTAIN SHORT CLIMBS NEAR IT

CHAPTER III THE RAKE’S PROGRESS AND CERTAIN SHORT CLIMBS NEAR IT

The Rake’s Progress. —This happy title dates from about 1881. The Progress is an easy ledge leading from the lower end of the Lord’s Rake to the point where the Mickledore ridge joins the main mass of Scawfell. It runs along the base of the vertical walls of this mountain, and though at a great elevation above the huge Mickledore hollow, is scarcely entitled to the thrilling adjective vertigineuse of the French climbing vocabulary. Yet it is capable of carrying one into the finest situations; an

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CHAPTER IV MOSS GHYLL, COLLIER’S CLIMB, AND KESWICK BROTHERS’ CLIMB

CHAPTER IV MOSS GHYLL, COLLIER’S CLIMB, AND KESWICK BROTHERS’ CLIMB

Moss Ghyll. —There are accounts of explorations of this famous gully as far back as 1889. It was styled Sweep Ghyll by Mr. R. C. Gilson, partly for euphonious grouping with Deep Ghyll and Steep Ghyll, and partly as a suggestion of ‘the probable profession of its future first climber.’ In June, 1889, a strong set of four managed to penetrate upwards into its recesses a yard or two beyond Tennis Court ledge, 300 feet above the Rake’s Progress, and almost exactly half way from start to finish. Here

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CHAPTER V SCAWFELL PINNACLE

CHAPTER V SCAWFELL PINNACLE

Ordinary Route. —This magnificent pinnacle offers the finest bit of rock scenery in the Scawfell massif . It rises up some 600 feet from the foot of Lord’s Rake in steep and almost unclimbable slabs of smooth rock, forming the left-hand boundary of Deep Ghyll and the right of Steep Ghyll. The latter, and the Professor’s Chimney springing up out of Deep Ghyll, cut it away to some extent from the main mountain mass, from which it is separated by a narrow col or gap familiarly known as the ‘Jordan.

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CHAPTER VI GREAT END AND ITS GULLIES

CHAPTER VI GREAT END AND ITS GULLIES

As we walk up towards the Styhead Pass from Wastdale we may see well in front of us the long ridge of the Pikes monopolizing a goodly portion of the sky-line. The high dependence at the head of the valley we are skirting is Great End, a reasonable enough name for the north-east head of the range. It sends down a buttress towards the Styhead Pass that, at a closer view, is shown to be well separated from the main mass by a deep gully of some architectural merit. This is Skew Ghyll. It twists its

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CHAPTER VII GREAT GABLE. THE ENNERDALE FACE AND THE OBLIQUE CHIMNEY.

CHAPTER VII GREAT GABLE. THE ENNERDALE FACE AND THE OBLIQUE CHIMNEY.

Great Gable takes high rank among the hills of Britain for grace of form and for the beauty of the views it offers to the climber. It is a square pyramid in shape, and shows nearly its full height (2,949 feet) from the Wastdale level. It stands at the head of the valley, and when seen from the shores of the lake appears completely to shut off the valley from all approach by the north end. Its four main ridges offer fairly easy walking to the summit. The north-east ridge runs down towards Green G

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CHAPTER VIII THE ENNERDALE CENTRAL GULLY AND TWO LITTLE CHIMNEYS

CHAPTER VIII THE ENNERDALE CENTRAL GULLY AND TWO LITTLE CHIMNEYS

There is no royal road to learning, and the converse proposition is equally true. There is no learning along a royal road. Some years ago I went up the Central Gully of the Gable behind an experienced climber, when conditions were at their best. It was a royal road to me, and I came away with but a vague notion of its difficulties, without having learnt anything. It is the leader that can give the truest description of an easy climb. Where the one man can do all the work, his followers go up wit

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CHAPTER IX THE GREAT NAPES AND ITS GULLIES

CHAPTER IX THE GREAT NAPES AND ITS GULLIES

It has already been explained that the Great Napes rises like a huge screen out of the southern slopes of Gable. Its crest runs from north-west to south-east. It is possible to travel along the whole length of the ridge from Hell’s Gate (called Deep Gill on the Ordnance map) to the White Napes scree at Little Hell Gate, and this route, religiously followed without divergence on to either face, will be found to offer many interesting pitches. The outside face of the Napes is cut by the Needle Gul

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CHAPTER X THE RIDGES OF THE GREAT NAPES

CHAPTER X THE RIDGES OF THE GREAT NAPES

The Needle Ridge is usually taken from the foot of the Needle itself. It was explored first in 1884 by Mr. Haskett Smith, who then made a general survey without actually completing the climb. Two years later he effected a descent of the whole route; and in 1887 Mr. Slingsby’s party made the first strict ascent, and were emphatic in their praise of its fine character. The introductory few feet from the notch behind the Needle are difficult, the problem being to climb up a steep slab of six feet o

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CHAPTER XI THE GABLE NEEDLE

CHAPTER XI THE GABLE NEEDLE

The best-known rock problem in the district is offered by the Gable Needle. Its position has already been defined. As we walk towards Styhead from Esk Hause the Needle stands out from the west face of the Gable very plainly; but from Wastdale it is almost invisible against the background of the indistinguishable Napes rocks, and only those who know exactly where it should be are bold enough to say where it is. Very few people seem to have seen it before 1886, when Mr. Haskett Smith reached the t

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CHAPTER XII KERN KNOTTS

CHAPTER XII KERN KNOTTS

Kern Knotts Chimney. —This is one of the prettiest things in the neighbourhood, and it photographs well. The small bunch of hard rock that crops out of the wilderness of scree on this side of the Gable was at one time rarely visited, though so near the actual Styhead path. Its name was almost unknown. I confused it with the Tom Blue crags higher up on the fell. Nowadays the good quality of the chimney attracts many visitors, and several come to see it who do not actually climb. The Knotts are in

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CHAPTER XIII THE WASTWATER SCREES

CHAPTER XIII THE WASTWATER SCREES

G. P. Abraham &amp; Sons, Photos Keswick THE SCREES AND WASTWATER Wastwater, the deepest lake in the district, occupies a flat-bottomed depression in Wastdale. It is just three miles long, and its very regular shores somewhat detract from the prettiness of its scenery. But the wild character of the hills that inclose it gives it a grandeur that is not possessed to an equal extent by any of the other lakes in the country. Its direction is north-east and south-west; Upper Wastdale is at its no

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CHAPTER XIV PAVEY ARK

CHAPTER XIV PAVEY ARK

The Langdale Pikes form a beautiful group of hills four miles to the east of the Scawfell Pikes. They lie at the head of Langdale, and the highest point, Harrison Stickle, is a prominent object in many a favourite landscape. Harrison Stickle is splendidly shaped, and manages to give an impression of much greater height than it really possesses (2,401 feet). Half a mile to the west is the Pike of Stickle or the Sugarloaf. It has a little climbing on the west face. Mr. Gwynne writes of it thus: ‘T

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CHAPTER XV DOE CRAG, CONISTON

CHAPTER XV DOE CRAG, CONISTON

This happy hunting-ground for the rock-climber is within an hour’s walk of Coniston. It forms part of the range of hills that includes Wetherlam and the Old Man, but unlike these great neighbours it has hitherto been left untouched by miners and quarry-men. From the Old Man we may look westwards across the upper end of Goat’s Water, and see the summit of Doe Crag almost at our level, some 900 feet above the lake. We are facing its grand precipices, and are in an excellent position to prospect th

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CHAPTER XVI COMBE GHYLL

CHAPTER XVI COMBE GHYLL

Many a pedestrian walking down Borrowdale from the Styhead pass, looking backward at the fearful descent of some 1,100 feet of rough fellside, reaches a point in the valley where he experiences difficulty in recalling his track. For the valley between Gable and Seathwaite Fell is hidden, and his choice hovers between the combe below Sprinkling Tarn, walled in by Seathwaite Fell and Glaramara, and the upland valley that nestles between Thornythwaite and Rosthwaite Fells. His perplexity is increas

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CHAPTER XVII THE PILLAR ROCK

CHAPTER XVII THE PILLAR ROCK

Mosedale is closed in by Yewbarrow, Red Pike, Pillar, Looking Stead, and Kirkfell. These form a noble amphitheatre of dark mountains, a cordon through which it is not easy to break. Between the last two hills we can effect the passage of the Black Sail over into Ennerdale, which passes down behind the Pillar to the north-west. A more direct route to Ennerdale is by Wind Yatt (or Windy Gap), a pass 2,400 feet high, between the Pillar and the Red Pike. On the northern or Ennerdale side of the Pill

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CHAPTER XVIII NOTES ON REMAINING CLIMBS

CHAPTER XVIII NOTES ON REMAINING CLIMBS

In this chapter it is proposed to deal summarily with a few remaining rock-climbs that have not yet been described. Some are rather awkward to reach, others are perhaps too slight to be worth the time spent in reaching them unless they actually turn up in the day’s march. One or two I have not visited, and am reluctant to accept the responsibility of guiding people up them. But is too general a motto among book-writers for me to hesitate long before incorporating other people’s notes, and the at

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APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

Walker’s Gully, Pillar Rock. —The Christmas of 1898 at Wastdale was marked by heavy rain and unseasonable conditions. Several large parties of climbers had come to the hotel, and, after a day or two of smoking and grumbling, had departed; until, at the New Year, Mr. Jones and myself were the only climbers left there. To keep ourselves in training, we struggled up through the powdery snow of the Central Gully on Gable Crag, performed many rash feats on the end of the barn and the billiard-table,

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CHAPTER I THE PILLAR ROCK AND ITS PURLIEUS UP TO DATE

CHAPTER I THE PILLAR ROCK AND ITS PURLIEUS UP TO DATE

In conformity with its deserts as the grandest mass of crags in Lakeland, the Pillar Rock has, of recent years, received most attention from those in search of new routes and variations. So numerous and intertwined are some of the latter that it would be difficult to say by how many different ways the top of the famous rock can now be attained. There are certainly a score that possess the merit of individuality. However, though there is one important exception, that of the New West Climb, the ol

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CHAPTER II NEW CLIMBS ON GREAT GABLE, SCAWFELL, AND AROUND WASTDALE HEAD

CHAPTER II NEW CLIMBS ON GREAT GABLE, SCAWFELL, AND AROUND WASTDALE HEAD

The Abbey Ridge ranks as the best discovery on Great Gable since the ascent of the Ling Chimney in 1899. In the present work (p. 158) there is a reference to the rocks to the left of the ordinary West Chimney route up the Eagle’s Nest Ridge. This attracted the attention of Messrs. F. Botterill and J. Hazard with a happy result—the annexation of a new climb. This was in the April of 1909. The lower part of the new ridge is well defined, but above the broad ledge, almost on a level with the exit f

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CHAPTER III THE BUTTERMERE CLIMBS, AND THOSE IN OUTLYING DISTRICTS

CHAPTER III THE BUTTERMERE CLIMBS, AND THOSE IN OUTLYING DISTRICTS

For strong and experienced parties of climbers, with a penchant for boating, fishing, and long mountain tramps on the ‘off days,’ Buttermere is well-nigh ideal. Moreover, the blasé ‘Wastdale Header’ will find amongst the fine corrie-like combes of High Crag and High Stile, and above the great hollow of Warnscale, climbs of an entirely different nature from most of the nail-scratched, polished courses of his former haunts. Many of the Buttermere climbs are still to all intents and purposes virgin

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CHAPTER IV RECENT CLIMBS AROUND LANGDALE AND DOE CRAG

CHAPTER IV RECENT CLIMBS AROUND LANGDALE AND DOE CRAG

Pavey Ark. —Despite the exploitation of Gimmer Crag and other smaller local attractions, this fine mass still ranks as first favourite with most climbers who stray Langdalewards. Yet, though it becomes more and more scarred and scratched with the marks of ‘hob-nailers,’ one curious feature must impress those who visit the crags after several years’ absence. This is the curious encroachment of vegetation. Beautiful as are some of the plants and grasses which cling to the face, the cragsman revels

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SMOKE AND BILLIARD ROOMS.

SMOKE AND BILLIARD ROOMS.

Conveyances can be sent to Seascale Stations to meet Visitors, if so desired. J. RITSON WHITING, Proprietor. Terms on Application. Letters via Carnforth . Agent for Beale’s (Buckingham’s) Celebrated Three-Strand Alpine Rope—60, 80, 100 feet lengths always in Stock; also for Simond’s Ice-Axes. ALSO AT—...

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Rowhead Temperance Hotel, WASDALE HEAD.

Rowhead Temperance Hotel, WASDALE HEAD.

(Three Minutes’ Walk from the Wastwater Hotel .) Beautifully situated at the foot of Kirkfell. RE-FURNISHED THROUGHOUT. CLIMBING PARTIES SPECIALLY CATERED FOR. Three Sitting-rooms. Eight Large Bedrooms. Terms on Application. J. RITSON WHITING, Proprietor. HOT AND COLD BATHS. PUBLIC AND PRIVATE SITTING-ROOMS. SEPARATE DRAWING-ROOM FOR LADIES. This HOTEL is close to the Lake and surrounded by Beautiful Scenery—Quiet, and a Good Centre for Walking and Climbing. Electric Launches on the Lake. Garage

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LODORE HOTEL, Borrowdale, KESWICK.

LODORE HOTEL, Borrowdale, KESWICK.

This HOTEL is close to the Lake and surrounded by Beautiful Scenery—Quiet, and a Good Centre for Walking and Climbing. Electric Launches on the Lake. Garage. Telephone No. 2 G.P.O. J. S. HARKER, Proprietor....

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JAEGER PURE WOOL Complete Outfits in Pure Wool for Climbers.

JAEGER PURE WOOL Complete Outfits in Pure Wool for Climbers.

Alpine Outfits a Specialty. Shirts, Spencers, Sweaters, Alpine Mitts, Puttees, Camel-hair Sleeping Bags, etc. Illustrated Price List Post Free. JAEGER PURE WOOL WEAR is never oppressive, while always protecting from chill. Expert Athletes, of both sexes, know from experience that it is the most suitable covering, and the wide World knows the JAEGER Name and Trade Mark as guarantees of Pure Wool, High Quality and Good Value. Address in other towns sent on application. JAEGER PURE WOOL WEAR is nev

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BURBERRY WEATHERPROOF CLIMBING KIT

BURBERRY WEATHERPROOF CLIMBING KIT

CLIMBERS REALISE the vital importance of clothing that meets the exigencies of this strenuous pastime, and agree that BURBERRY successfully solves the problem of the most healthful, comfortable, and serviceable equipment. BURBERRY MATERIALS are especially woven and scientifically weather-proofed by Burberry processes for the set purposes of:— Affording natural warmth by diverting cold winds. Preventing penetration by rain, sleet or snow. Maintaining normal temperature under the most divergent co

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ARTHUR BEALE (late John Buckingham), 194 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W.C. ICE AXES by English and Foreign Makers kept in Stock.

ARTHUR BEALE (late John Buckingham), 194 Shaftesbury Avenue, London, W.C. ICE AXES by English and Foreign Makers kept in Stock.

Rücksacks, Belts, Slings , &amp;c. Price Lists on Application. Diploma awarded for Alpine Rope at the Bergen Sports Exhibition 1910....

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JAMES S. CARTER

JAMES S. CARTER

The Alpine Bootmaker , 16 South Molton Street (First Floor), LONDON, W. 45/- Specialist in Boots for Climbing &amp; Touring For over 50 years Maker to the ENGLISH, CONTINENTAL, CANADIAN and CAPE ALPINE and CLIMBING CLUBS. Illustrated Price List on application. Illustrated Price List on application. Es’ablished nearly a Century. HILL &amp; SON, 4 Haymarket, London, S.W. ( Opposite His Majesty’s Theatre. ) London Manufacturers of Sporting, Table, Toilet and Pocket Cutlery, Alpine Ice Axes

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LANGDALE. Dungeon Ghyll New Hotel (Quarters of the Fell and Rock-Climbing Club).

LANGDALE. Dungeon Ghyll New Hotel (Quarters of the Fell and Rock-Climbing Club).

The Hill Climbers’ Paradise. In the Heart of Lakeland. The Place for a Restful Holiday. PERFECT BATHROOMS AND SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS. NEWLY FURNISHED THROUGHOUT. Postal Address — Ambleside . Telegraphic Address — Elterwater . J. COWPERTHWAITE ( Of the Prince of Wales and Rothay Hotels, Grasmere ), Proprietor . J. FOTHERGILL, Manager....

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MOUNTAIN AND CLIMBING PHOTOGRAPHS.

MOUNTAIN AND CLIMBING PHOTOGRAPHS.

Our Unique and Well-known Series now include the following Districts and their Surrounding Peaks: Zermatt, Chamonix, Grindelwald, Arolla, Pontresina , Oetzthal and Stubaithal; also the Dauphiny Alps, the Dolomites and the Grand Combin . The British Series include the English Lake District, North Wales, Scotland, and Skye. In Platinotype, 8¼ by 6¼ ins., at 1s. 6d. each; Set of 50, £3, 10s. Other Sizes also, up to 40 by 30 ins., in Carbon and Platinotype. We Specialise in High-Class LANTERN SLIDES

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Messrs. G. P. ABRAHAM & SONS, Victoria Buildings, KESWICK.

Messrs. G. P. ABRAHAM & SONS, Victoria Buildings, KESWICK.

1 Not in Jones’ List. 2 In the Wastdale Climbers’ Book. Obvious printer errors corrected silently. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation are as in the original....

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