Midnight Sunbeams; Or, Bits Of Travel Through The Land Of The Norseman
Edwin Coolidge Kimball
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MIDNIGHT SUNBEAMS OR BITS OF TRAVEL THROUGH THE LAND OF THE NORSEMAN
MIDNIGHT SUNBEAMS OR BITS OF TRAVEL THROUGH THE LAND OF THE NORSEMAN
BY EDWIN COOLIDGE KIMBALL   BOSTON CUPPLES AND HURD, Publishers To WALTER H. CAMP, In memory of years of friendship, this book is affectionately dedicated....
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The following sketches of a journey in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark are given to the public in the hope that their perusal will furnish information concerning the people, and attractions, of countries which are being visited by Americans more and more each succeeding year. While they may impart some useful knowledge to intending travellers over the same ground, it is hoped as well that they will furnish entertainment to those who travel only through books. The memories of the days passed in the N
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CHAPTER I. COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS.
CHAPTER I. COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS.
Lübeck—Journey to Copenhagen—Herr Rentier—Bertel Thorvaldsen—Museums—An Evening at the Tivoli—Souvenirs of Hamlet—A Famous Mother-in-law—The Frederiksborg Palace—An Aimless Widow. It was on a charming day in June, after an hour’s railway ride from Hamburg, that we arrived at Lübeck—the starting point of our journey through Scandinavia. Lübeck is the smallest of the three independent Hanseatic towns of the German Empire, both Hamburg and Bremen far surpassing her in size and importance, yet at on
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CHAPTER II. ACROSS SWEDEN BY THE GOTHA CANAL.
CHAPTER II. ACROSS SWEDEN BY THE GOTHA CANAL.
A Day at Gothenburg—The Gotha Canal—Life On the “Venus”—keeping our Meal Accounts—The Trollhätta Falls—Pastoral Scenery—Swedish Boarding-School Girls—Lake Mälar. Gothenburg, a busy commercial place of about 77,000 inhabitants, is, next to Stockholm, the largest city in Sweden. It is situated on the Gotha river, five miles from its mouth, with an excellent harbor. As it has direct steamer communication with England and Scotland, and close business relations with them, and as many English merchant
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CHAPTER III. IN AND ABOUT STOCKHOLM.
CHAPTER III. IN AND ABOUT STOCKHOLM.
The Islands and Features of the City—The Westminster Abbey of Sweden—Interesting Museums—The Leading City for Telephones—Scenes at Evening Concerts—The Multitude of Excursions—Down the Baltic to Vaxholm—Royal Castles on the Lake—The University Town of Upsala. The Grand Hotel is, next to the Royal Palace, the most imposing building in Stockholm. It is situated on a broad quay, near the National Museum, opposite the Palace, overlooking the bridge over the junction of Lake Mälar with the bay of the
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CHAPTER IV. RAILWAY JOURNEY TO THRONDHJEM.
CHAPTER IV. RAILWAY JOURNEY TO THRONDHJEM.
Swedish Railways and Meal Stations—Among the Snow Banks—The Descent to Throndhjem—The Shrine of St. Olaf—North Cape Steamers. From Upsala we started on a railway journey of four hundred and ninety-four miles across Sweden to Throndhjem (Drontheim in English), on the west coast of Norway, the distance being accomplished in thirty hours, allowing liberal stops for meals en route . Only second and third class carriages are run upon the road, a second class ticket costing $11.25 for the entire journ
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CHAPTER V. THE NORWEGIAN NORDLAND.
CHAPTER V. THE NORWEGIAN NORDLAND.
The Ever-Present Salmon—A Cheese Exhibition—The Blessed Island Belt—Torghätta and the Seven Sisters—Scenes within the Arctic Circle—Visit to the Svartisen Glacier—Coasting along the Lofoden Islands—Sea Fowl and Eider Ducks—Reindeer Swimming across the Fjord. At noon, June 23rd, we stood on the deck of the mail steamer “Kong Halfdan”; the last passenger with boxes and luggage had come aboard, the bridge was drawn in, cables thrown off, we drew out from the wharf, and steamed down the fjord on our
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CHAPTER VI. FROM TROMSÖ TO THE NORTH CAPE.
CHAPTER VI. FROM TROMSÖ TO THE NORTH CAPE.
The Sights of Tromsö—A Visit To a Whale-Oil Factory—The Most Northern Town in the World—Bird Islands in the Arctic Ocean—A Picnic at the Base of the North Cape—The Midnight Sun—Perplexities of Perpetual Day. Tromsö, the chief town in Finmarken, numbers fifty-five hundred inhabitants; it is situated upon an island with a background of snow mountains across the gleaming fjord. Above the town, a number of pleasant villas and wooden houses extend along the heights, one of which was pointed out by a
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CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE BACK TO THRONDHJEM.
CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE BACK TO THRONDHJEM.
The Lyngen Fjord—Lapp Encampment in the Tromsdal—A Smuke Pige—Lapp Huts and Babies—Reindeer, and their Manifold Uses—Loading Cattle—Farewell Appearance of the Midnight Sun—Scenes among the Steerage. The steamer remained a few hours at Hammerfest on our return from the North Cape, to take on a cargo of oil and dried fish. As we proceeded down the Sörö fjord we remained nearly the whole afternoon on the captain’s bridge. The surface of the fjord was as smooth as oil, and the grand panorama of snow
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CHAPTER VIII. MOLDE AND THE ROMSDAL.
CHAPTER VIII. MOLDE AND THE ROMSDAL.
Christiansund—Resting at Molde—Leprosy In Norway—First Carriole Drive—Struggling with the Norse Language—Walk through the Romsdal. The “Kong Halfdan” remained part of a day at Throndhjem. We visited again the interesting old cathedral, and walking outside the city we watched in a large field the drilling of some soldiers, whose lack of discipline would have caused a Prussian to faint at the sight. The town was decorated with triumphal arches of evergreen, rows of fir and pine trees bordered the
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CHAPTER IX. A MOUNTAIN WALK.
CHAPTER IX. A MOUNTAIN WALK.
Steamboat Service—A Night in a Mountain Sæter—Primitive Accommodations—A Talkative Farmer—Riding Horseback under Difficulties—An Exhausting Tramp and a Trial of Patience—Up the Geiranger Fjord to Merok—Approach to Hellesylt. The steamboat service in Norway is excellent. The larger steamers run along the coast, and up the principal fjords, carrying the mails and freight, and are fitted with comfortable passenger accommodations. The captain, mates, and purser all speak English, and often the stewa
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CHAPTER X. ACROSS COUNTRY DRIVE.
CHAPTER X. ACROSS COUNTRY DRIVE.
Posting System and Manner of Travelling in the Interior—Characteristics of the Norwegians—A Day’s Carrioling—A Morning Walk—Rival Innkeepers—Scenes in the Hay Fields—Our Third Day’s Ride—Resting at Sande. There are but few railways in Norway. From Christiania are several short railroads to places in the immediate vicinity; two lines go into Sweden; and extending northward to Throndhjem is the longest railroad in the country; on the west coast a railroad extends inland a distance of about sixty m
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CHAPTER XI. ON AND ABOUT THE SOGNEFJORD.
CHAPTER XI. ON AND ABOUT THE SOGNEFJORD.
A Day on the Sognefjord—Evening Scenes at a Norwegian Hotel—Carrioling through the Laerdal—Borgund Church—The Grandeurs of the Naeröfjord and Walk through the Naerödal—Our Drive to Vossevangen—A Morning Walk to Eide. We were awakened at five o’clock one morning, by the boy who drove up with the stolkjærre that was to take us from our dear Sande, and before six o’clock we had shaken hands with Herr Sivertsen and the whole family assembled to bid us farewell, and had started down the valley toward
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CHAPTER XII. THE HARDANGER FJORD.
CHAPTER XII. THE HARDANGER FJORD.
A Sabbath at Vik—Road Building—Visit to the Vöringsfos—Odde on the Sörfjord—Excursion to the Skjæggedalsfos—The Bruarbræ—From Odde by Steamer to Bergen. We met at Eide a Norwegian-American, a gentleman of wealth and intelligence from Wisconsin, who was revisiting his native land accompanied by his American wife, after an absence of twenty-six years; and during all our stay upon the Hardanger fjord we enjoyed the pleasure of their company, which was of especial benefit, as Mr. L. still spoke Norw
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CHAPTER XIII. BERGEN.
CHAPTER XIII. BERGEN.
Our Experiences in the “Weeping City”—Scenes in the Fish Market—Rainy Walks about Town—A Beneficial Licence System—Voyage across the North Sea—Up the River Maas to Rotterdam. We had travelled from the North Cape to Odde, nearly the entire length of Norway, and everywhere had met most honest and good-hearted people, to whom overcharge and extortion seemed unknown; but the moment we stepped from the steamer at Bergen we landed among a race of land sharks who appeared to possess none of the qualiti
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CHAPTER XIV. EXPENSES AND PRACTICAL HINTS.
CHAPTER XIV. EXPENSES AND PRACTICAL HINTS.
What Did it Cost?—The Route and Time Allowed for the Journey—Clothing and Food—Ladies Travelling Alone—The Result of Politeness and Consideration—Conclusion. The expense of a journey through Norway, Sweden, and Denmark is very moderate. We did not limit ourselves to a fixed amount, nor practise any especial economy; we travelled first class on steamers, and second class on the railway, that being the best accommodation furnished, as there is no first class; we stopped at the large hotels in the
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LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
HAVERHILL, MASS. BRADFORD, MASS. Foreign Countries....
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Recent Publications OF Cupples & Hurd, PUBLISHERS, GENERAL BOOKSELLERS, AND LIBRARY AGENTS, 94 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass.
Recent Publications OF Cupples & Hurd, PUBLISHERS, GENERAL BOOKSELLERS, AND LIBRARY AGENTS, 94 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass.
∵ Note. — In order to insure the correct delivery of the actual works, or particular Editions specified in this List, the name of the Publishers should be distinctly given. These books can be had from any local bookseller; but should any difficulty be experienced in procuring them, Messrs. Cupples & Hurd will be happy to forward them direct, postage paid, on receipt of cheque, stamps, or Postal order for the amount, with a copy of their complete catalogue . THE AMERICAN TAUCHNITZ SERIES.
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