Journal Of A Voyage From Okkak, On The Coast Of Labrador, To Ungava Bay, Westward Of Cape Chudleigh
Georg Kmoch
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UNITAS FRATRUM or UNITED BRETHREN
UNITAS FRATRUM or UNITED BRETHREN
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INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
F OR these many years past, a considerable number of Esquimaux have been in the annual practice of visiting the three missionary establishments of the United Brethren on the coast of Labrador, OKKAK, NAIN, and HOPEDALE, chiefly with a view to barter, or to see those of their friends and acquaintance, who had become obedient to the gospel, and lived together in Christian fellowship, enjoying the instruction of the Missionaries. These people came mostly from the north, and some of them from a grea
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Outfit. Opinions of the Esquimaux respecting the Voyage. Description of the Company. Departure from Okkak. Arrival at Nungorome. J UNE 16, 1811.—T HE ice began to loosen in the bay of OKKAK, and to drive out to sea. On the 17th, the bay was quite cleared of it; but on the 18th, it returned, and seemed to preclude all possibility of setting out so soon as we intended. On the 19th, however, it left us entirely. 20th. We were employed in hauling the boat to the edge of the water, and being floated
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Nungorome Cove. Account of Solomon. Drift-ice. Cape Mugford. Waterfalls from the Kaumayok Mountains. Fruitless attempt to get out of the Ikkerasak, or Straits. N UNGOROME is a cove on the south side of the Island Pacharvik. Between this island the main land is a narrow strait, so shallow that no whales can pass. The Esquimaux stretch their nets across, to catch seals, seeking shelter in it when the wind sets in from the open sea. They can only be taken in the night, and the greate
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Quit the Ikkerasak. Account of the Kaumayok Mountains, and of Kangertluksoak. Public Worship on Sunday. Saeglek and its Inhabitants described. The Missionaries visit the Esquimaux at Kikkertarsoak. J UNE 29th.—W E rose soon after two o’clock, and rowed out of the Ikkerasak, with a fair wind. The sea was perfectly calm and smooth. Brother Kmoch rowed in the small boat along the foot of the mountains of Kaumayok, sometimes going on shore, while the large boat was making but little way, keeping out
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Saeglek. Fruitless attempt to reach Nachvak. Retreat into Nullatartok Inlet. Slate Bay. Detention on account of the Ice. Arrive at Nachvak. J ULY 2d.—A T one A.M. we set sail, steering for Nachvak , a distance of about thirty miles. Here a chain of mountains runs north and south, nearly parallel with the coast. The coast itself is of moderate height, but very steep, and not being defended by any island, the approach to it as a lee-shore, is very dangerous. It runs generally in a p
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Reception at Nachvak. Description of the bay. The Esquimaux manner of spearing salmon and trout. Christian deportment of the Okkak and Hopedale Esquimaux. Jonas’s address to the Heathen. Love of music general among these Indians. Departure from Nachvak. Danger in doubling the North Cape. Arrival at Sangmiyok bay. J ULY 16th.—A FTER two or three hours sleep in our cabin, we went on shore. The Esquimaux, who had here a temporary station, about fifty in number, received us with every mark of attent
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Pass Cape Nennoktok. Visit the Esquimaux families at Kummaktorvik and Amitok. Description of an Esquimaux travelling bed. Mountains seen at Ungava. Netsek seal described. Greenland houses. Danger of being shipwrecked near Kakkeviak. J ULY 20th.—W E proceeded with little or no wind, and taking to our oars, doubled the great Cape of Nennoktok. Here a strong swell from the sea met us, and tossed our boat violently about, and, having no wind, it drove us nearer to the shore than was perfectly safe.
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His perseverance in waiting for the arrival of the Missionaries. Islands and bays between Kakkeviak and Killinek. Danger in the ice at Ammitok. Want of fuel supplied by robbing old graves. W HEN we arrived at Oppernavik, we found Uttakiyok , with his two wives and youngest brother, waiting to receive us. He and his family are from the Ungava bay, and had been upon the watch in this place during the whole spring. They welcomed us with shouts of joy, an
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Oppernavik. Pass the Ikkerasak of Killinek. Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting with Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen an European. Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood. Double Cape Uibvaksoak. Distant view of Akpatok. Having safely doubled the point or cape of Uibvaksoak , we came to an anchor near a small island to the south, where we spent the night. 5th. Calm weather, and proceeded gently. About 9 A.M. the wind turned against us,
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Chain of black mountains. The Dragon’s dwelling. Changes occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers attending them. Uttakiyok’s superstitious customs. Singular effect of the tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok. Arrive at Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation. Transactions there. A UGUST 6th.—W E crossed the bay Abloriak , which is large and wide, with many small islands and rocks towards the sea, and high black mountains inland, called Torngaets . Uttakiyok, who was always very
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Further transactions in Kangertlualuksoak Bay. The Esquimaux women frightened by reports of Indians. Ceremony of taking possession of this new-explored country, as belonging to the King of England, and of naming the river George river. Leave the bay and proceed to Arvarvik. Whales caught by the Esquimaux in the shallows. Storm at Kernertut. A UGUST 11th.—W E rose by break of day, and after breakfast, sailed across the bay, and landed at the second small inlet, with an intention of penetrating in
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Doubts expressed by Jonathan and the other Esquimaux on the expediency of continuing the voyage. Consultations. Resolve to proceed. Thunder-storm at Pitsiolak. Account of Indians. Esquimaux cookery and hunting feasts. Arrival in the river Koksoak. J ONATHAN and Jonas now became more and more anxious about our situation. They represented to us, that, if we attempted to proceed farther, we might probably be compelled to remain here the whole winter, as the stormy season was fast approaching. They
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region. Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy and eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them. Find a suitable situation for a settlement. Description of the country. A UGUST 25th.—T HIS was the joyful day on which at last we saw our hopes realized, and the principal aim of our journey obtained. The sun rose beautifully, and announced a delightful day. We were obliged to wait till seven A.M. for the turn of the tide, be
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
Return to Okkak. S EPTEMBER 1st.—A T ten A.M. we fell down the river with the ebb-tide, and about noon anchored near its mouth. The Esquimaux showed great attachment to us, and could hardly resolve to take a final leave. They called after us, “Come soon again, we shall always be wishing for you.” Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok, followed us in their kayaks to the mouth of the river. We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board with an inscription similar to that p
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