Travels In Brazil - free ebook by Henry Koster

Read as playlist

Travels In Brazil

Henry Koster

36 chapters

28 hour read

Read as playlist

Selected Chapters

36 chapters

TRAVELS

TRAVELS

IN BRAZIL. BY HENRY KOSTER . LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER-ROW . 1816. Printed by A. Strahan, New-Street-Square, London. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. POET LAUREATE , MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SPANISH ACADEMY, AND OF THE ROYAL SPANISH ACADEMY OF HISTORY, THESE TRAVELS ARE INSCRIBED By HENRY KOSTER, IN MEMORIAL OF AFFECTIONATE RESPECT AND GRATITUDE. Printed by A. Strahan, New-Street-Square, London. TO ROBERT SOUTHEY, ESQ. POET LAUREATE , MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SPANISH AC

39 minute read

Read Chapter

PREFACE.

PREFACE.

- DURING my residence in Brazil, I had no intention of publishing any account of what I had seen and heard in that country. Some time after my return to England, I was encouraged to put together the information which I might be able to impart. The reader will be more disposed to excuse what defects he may find, when he is informed that I went out young, that I did not gather any knowledge of the country in a systematic manner with the idea of giving it to the public, and that the idiom of a fore

1 minute read

Read Chapter

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

REFERENCES TO THE PLAN OF THE PORT OF PERNAMBUCO. - A. The bridge of Boa Vista. B. The bridge of Recife. C. Fort Bom Jezus. D. Fort Picam. E. Fort Brum. F. Cross of Patram. G. Fort Buraco. H. The village of Arrombados. I. The church of St. Amaro. K. Jerusalem. a. Houses and gardens. b. The Carmelite convent. c. The Church of Sacramento (parish). d. The Franciscan convent. e. The Treasury. f. The Palace. g. The cotton wharf (commonly called Forte do Mato ). h. The Madre de Deos convent. i. The ch

18 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

A Jangada. Nothing this day created so much astonishment on board our ship, amongst those who had not been before upon this coast, as the Jangadas , sailing about in all directions. These are simply rafts of six logs, of a peculiar species of light timber, lashed or pinned together; a large latine sail; a paddle used as a rudder; a sliding keel let down between the two centre logs; a seat for the steersman, and a long forked pole, upon which is hung the vessel containing water, the provisions, &

13 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.

VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.—THE CLIMATE.—FIRST RIDE INTO THE COUNTRY.—RESIDENCE AT A VILLAGE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF RECIFE.—OLINDA.—HOLY THURSDAY.—GOOD FRIDAY.—EASTER SUNDAY.—PROFESSION OF A FRIAR.—ST. PETER’S DAY.—VISIT TO A BRASILIAN FAMILY.—A DANCE.—ANOTHER VISIT TO OLINDA. THE numerous arrangements necessary on our arrival, prevented our making immediately the customary visit to the governor; but on the following morning we proceeded to the palace, situated in a small square, with the guard-hous

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER III.

Now, although the expences of the provincial governments are great, and absorb a very considerable proportion of the receipts, owing to the number of officers employed in every department, still the salaries of each are, in most instances, much too small to afford a comfortable subsistence; consequently peculation, bribery, and other crimes of the same description are to be looked for, and they become so frequent as to escape all punishment or even notice; though there are some men whose charact

11 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER IV.

JOURNEY TO GOIANA.—JOURNEY FROM GOIANA TO PARAIBA, AND BACK TO GOIANA. I HAD much desired to perform some considerable journey into the less populous and less cultivated part of the country. The chief engineer officer of Pernambuco had intended to visit all the fortresses within his extensive district, and had kindly promised to permit me to accompany him, but unfortunately his projected journey was delayed from some cause connected with his place, until the following season. As I did not know h

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER V.

CHAPTER V.

I dined the following day at the village of Mamanguape, situated upon the banks of a dry river; it is a thriving place. These more modern villages have been built in one long street upon the road, the older ones in a square. It had then about three hundred inhabitants; but I have since heard, that the number is more than doubled, and that new houses are building. The river can scarcely be reckoned of any advantage to the village, but the place forms a convenient break between Goiana and Rio Gran

21 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER VI.

CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY. FROM NATAL TO AÇU. THE governor did all in his power to dissuade me from proceeding further, the drought being so great as to render it not quite prudent; but as I had come so far, I was resolved, at any rate, to make the attempt. If I had been certain of being able to undertake the journey at a future period, it would have been better to have returned, and to have waited until a more favourable season; but I am rejoiced that I went at that time, as, otherwise, I sho

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER VII.

Early in the morning we continued our journey for some distance along the banks of the lake, and then entered upon some open land, which was now quite dry; we slept under a clump of trees, distant about twenty miles from Piatô. The cattle we saw this day, were in good condition, plainly showing, that the country enjoyed a plentiful supply of water. The road of the next day led us through woodlands, and over loose stony ground; but the woods of this part of the country are not large and luxuriant

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER VIII.

CHAPTER VIII.

The brushwood among which we had determined to pass the night was low and not close, so that only two shrubs were found to be near enough to each other and of sufficient strength to support a hammock; between these mine was hung, whilst the people took up their quarters upon the packages as to them seemed best. Between one and two o’clock in the morning the rain commenced, at first, with some moderation; the guide fastened two cords from shrub to shrub above my hammock, and laid some hides upon

3 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER IX.

The island of Maranham forms the S.E. side of the bay of St. Marcos, consequently this bay is to the westward of it. To the eastward of the island is the bay of St. Joze. From some similarity between the point of Itacolomi, by which vessels are in part guided when about to enter the bay of St. Marcos, and another point of land upon the small island of St. Anna, which is at the entrance of the bay of St. Joze, instances have occurred of vessels mistaking the latter for the former, and entering th

27 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER X.

CHAPTER X.

THE AUTHOR SETS SAIL FROM GRAVESEND AND ARRIVES AT PERNAMBUCO.—STATE OF RECIFE.—JOURNEY TO BOM JARDIM WITH A CAPITAM-MOR, AND RETURN TO RECIFE. AT the commencement of the winter my friends again recommended a return to a more temperate climate than that of England; and therefore understanding that the Portugueze ship Serra Pequeno was upon the point of sailing, I took my passage in her. She was lying at Gravesend, and on the 4th October, 1811, I embarked again for Pernambuco. Contrary winds deta

3 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XI.

CHAPTER XI.

I was under the necessity of taking up my abode in the vestry of the chapel, as the Great House was still occupied. The negroes were already at work for us, and under the direction of a proper feitor or manager. The whole neighbourhood was astonished at the place I had determined to inhabit, until some other dwelling presented itself. I was certainly not comfortably situated, for the vestry consisted of only one apartment, with a door-way to the field and another into the church, the latter bein

31 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XII.

CHAPTER XII.

JOURNEY TO UNINHA.—CONTINUATION OF MY RESIDENCE AT JAGUARIBE.—NEGRO BROTHERHOOD OF OLINDA.—BLESSING THE SUGAR WORKS.—MANDINGUEIROS AND VALENTOENS. ABOUT the middle of January, 1813, I went to stay for some days at the cottage of an acquaintance, who resided upon the plain of Barbalho, for the purpose of purchasing a few horses. This place is near to the village of Monteiro; but it is on the opposite side of the river. Barbalho is a plain of some extent, upon which cattle are turned out to feed;

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XIII.

CHAPTER XIII.

The harbour is good, and the entrance to it is commanded by an old fort, which is much out of repair; the garrison is scanty, and without discipline. On one occasion I took a canoe, and went down to the bar. I wished to sound, but my canoe-man begged that I would not, as it might bring him into trouble; and indeed we were in sight of the fort, and the commandant is jealous, being an elderly man and an advocate for the old system of exclusion. The entrance to the port is formed by an opening in t

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XIV.

CHAPTER XIV.

The house in which I resided at Jaguaribe, had been in former times a barn in which the sugar was put into chests for exportation; and I had heard from the neighbours that the ants about it were numerous; and particularly a small black ant called the formiga douda , or foolish ant, owing to its not appearing to have any track, but to wander about the spot upon which the horde has appeared, running fast to and fro, and irregularly. These are distinguished from the black ant of the orange trees by

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XV.

CHAPTER XV.

The soldier of South America ought to be a being of far different stamp from the professed soldier of Europe. Any war which it might be necessary for Brazil to wage against a foreign invader should (indeed must) be carried on with a direct view to the peculiar advantages of the country; it would be a guerilla war, a war under the cover of woods and hills. Therefore, although it may be as well to have a few disciplined soldiers who may be preserved, for the purpose of forming the basis of a large

2 hour read

Read Chapter

PLANTING THE SUGAR-CANE.

PLANTING THE SUGAR-CANE.

The lands in Brazil are never grubbed up [143] , either for planting the sugar-cane, or for any other agricultural purposes. The inconveniences of this custom are perceivable more particularly in high lands; because all of these that are of any value are naturally covered with thick woods. The cane is planted among the numerous stumps of trees, by which means much ground is lost, and as the sprouts from these stumps almost immediately spring forth, (such is the rapidity of vegetation,) the clean

11 minute read

Read Chapter

THE MILL.

THE MILL.

A sugar-plantation is doubtless one of the most difficult species of property to manage in a proper manner. The numerous persons employed upon it, their divers avocations, and the continual change of occupation, give to the owner or his manager constant motives for exertion, innumerable opportunities of displaying his activity. A plantation ought to possess within itself all the tradesmen which are required for the proper furtherance of its concerns; a carpenter, a blacksmith, a mason, a potter,

4 minute read

Read Chapter

THE BOILING-HOUSE.

THE BOILING-HOUSE.

In the boiling-house the manufactory of sugar in Brazil requires great alteration. The work is done in a slovenly manner, very little attention being paid to the minutiæ of the business. The ovens over which the boilers are placed, are rudely made, and they answer the purpose for which they are intended in an imperfect manner; enormous quantities of fuel are consumed, and the negroes who attend to the ovens are soon worn out. The juice runs from the cane as it is squeezed between the rollers, in

3 minute read

Read Chapter

THE STILL-HOUSE.

THE STILL-HOUSE.

The Brazil planters are more backward in the management of their still-houses than in any other department of their business. The stills are earthen jars with small necks, and likewise small at the bottom, widening upwards considerably, but again straightening on approaching the neck. The foundation of a circular oven is formed, and two of these jars are placed within it, one on each side of it, in a slanting position, with the bottom within the oven and the neck on the outside, and being thus s

2 minute read

Read Chapter

LANDS.

LANDS.

A sugar plantation of Pernambuco or Paraiba does not require the enormous capital which is necessary in purchasing and establishing an estate of the same description in the Columbian islands; but a certain degree of capital is requisite, otherwise continual distress will be the consequence of entering into such a concern. The instances of persons having purchased sugar plantations without any advance of money are however by no means rare, and even the slaves, or at least the major part of them,

9 minute read

Read Chapter

THE BUILDINGS.

THE BUILDINGS.

The buildings which are usually to be seen upon the plantations are the following: The mill; which is either turned by water or by cattle; some of the plantations possess both of these, owing to the failure of the water in the dry season; and indeed there are a few estates upon which the crops are so large as to require that there should be both. The boiling-house; which is usually attached to the mill, and is the most costly part of the apparatus, for the coppers, &amp;c. must be obtained f

1 minute read

Read Chapter

STOCK.

STOCK.

Of those estates which I have seen, I think that the average number of negroes sent to daily labour in the field does not reach forty for each; for although there may be upon a plantation this number of males and females of a proper age for working, still some of them will always be sick or employed upon errands, not directly conducive to the advancement of the regular work. An estate which possesses forty able negroes, males and females, an equal number of oxen [165] , and the same of horses, c

55 minute read

Read Chapter

THE MANDIOC PLANTS.

THE MANDIOC PLANTS.

The mandioc requires good land, and the same spot will not produce two crops successively; it must be allowed to rest for one or two years or more. The operation of planting it is simple, and differs in no respect from that which was practised formerly by the Indians [173] . The flour which is made from this root is called farinha de pao , or stick flour [174] . There are several species of the mandioc plant, of which some are adapted to high lands, and others to low and moist situations; but wh

5 minute read

Read Chapter

THE COCO-TREE.

THE COCO-TREE.

The sandy soils of the coast in which this plant seems to delight would, if they were not cultivated with it, remain almost useless; but from the produce which the coco-tree yields, they are rendered very valuable. The lands which are occupied by this plant alone yield a settled income to the owners of them without much labour; whilst the cultivation of any other requires considerable toil; however the long period, of from five to seven years, which the tree requires before it bears fruit, canno

2 minute read

Read Chapter

THE CARRAPATO OR CASTOR TREE.

THE CARRAPATO OR CASTOR TREE.

This plant may be, as well as the coco, reared in sandy soils, but it will flourish with more luxuriance, upon those that are of a richer kind. The oil, which is extracted from the seed, is in general use for lamps and other purposes, but neither is it eaten, nor known as a medicine; but it is administered as an outward application. It is given to animals that have drank the juice of the mandioc, and is sometimes successful in forcing the poison back from the stomach. The plant is much cultivate

30 minute read

Read Chapter

BRAZIL WOOD.

BRAZIL WOOD.

The wood from which is extracted the beautiful red dye, which is so much esteemed in Europe, is, I believe, generally supposed to be peculiar [184] to the country to which it has given a name [185] . It is often called in Pernambuco (from whence, I imagine, that it is exclusively exported) pao da Rainha or Queen’s wood, owing to the circumstance of the trade in it being a government monopoly; and it is exported to Europe on account of the Crown. No care has been taken to prevent a scarcity of th

9 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XVIII.

CHAPTER XVIII.

THE FREE POPULATION. THE insufficiency of the population of Portugal to the almost unbounded plans of the rulers of that kingdom, has, in all probability, saved her South American possessions from the dreadful contests which are to be apprehended in the neighbouring Spanish colonies, between the Creole white inhabitants and those of colour. The struggle yet rages with exterminating violence between the descendants of Europeans, born in South America, and the natives of Old Spain; but when this i

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XIX.

CHAPTER XIX.

A considerable number of slaves are manumitted at the death of their masters, and indeed some persons of large property fail not to set at liberty a few of them during their own life-time. A deed of manumission, however simply it may be drawn out, cannot be set aside; a register of these papers is preserved at the office of every notary-public, by which any distress which might be occasioned by the loss of the originals is provided against, for the copy of course holds good in law. A slave who h

2 hour read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER XX.

CHAPTER XX.

The ruin of Brazil is predicted, the decay of its agriculture and of its commerce are supposed to be inevitable from the want of labourers if the trade is prohibited. This is generally asserted wherever I have been, without the least consideration, without a thought being given to the possibility of employing the free population of the country in daily labour. It is said, that if Africans are not to be obtained, every thing must be at a stand, and the country can make no progress. This argument

36 minute read

Read Chapter

THE TREATY OF FRIENDSHIP AND ALLIANCE.

THE TREATY OF FRIENDSHIP AND ALLIANCE.

I pass over the primary articles as being unimportant, or from the interest of the subjects to which they relate having already subsided. Article 6th. “His Britannic Majesty is allowed the privilege of causing timber, for the purpose of building ships of war, to be purchased and cut down in the woods of Brazil.” This was supposed to afford to Great Britain an inexhaustible and inexpensive source of supplying her navy with timber; but I have understood that the expence which must be incurred in f

4 minute read

Read Chapter

THE TREATY OF COMMERCE AND NAVIGATION.

THE TREATY OF COMMERCE AND NAVIGATION.

Article 2d. “There shall be reciprocal liberty of commerce and navigation between the subjects of the two High Contracting Parties, and they are allowed to trade, travel, sojourn, and establish themselves in the ports &amp;c. of the dominions of each, excepting in those from which all foreigners are excluded.” The ease with which leave to travel in Brazil may be obtained, I have myself experienced, and even without a passport an Englishman might travel in some of the provinces. Great complai

2 hour read

Read Chapter

USES.

USES.

The leaves of this plant are composed of two segments, one exterior and convex, and the other interior and concave; the former is more compact and hard, the latter is thinner; between them is to be found a quantity of longitudinal fibres, of the same length as the leaves, fixed in a juicy pulp. These fibres are strong, and from them cordage may be made, and even coarse cloth, if care is taken in preparing the thread. This may the more easily be done, from the enormous quantities which nature aff

52 minute read

Read Chapter

BOOKS OF TRAVELS, &c.

BOOKS OF TRAVELS, &c.

5. TRAVELS in the IONIAN ISLES, in ALBANIA, THESSALY, and GREECE, in 1812 and 1813. Together with an Account of a Residence at Joannina, the Capital and Court of Ali Pasha; and with a more cursory Sketch of a Route through Attica, the Morea, &amp;c. By Henry Holland , M. D. F. R. S. &amp;c. &amp;c. In One Vol. 4to. illustrated by a Map and Twelve Engravings, price 3 l. 3 s. boards. 6. The PERSONAL NARRATIVE of M. DE HUMBOLDT’S TRAVELS to the EQUINOCTIAL REGIONS of the NEW CONTINENT,

4 minute read

Read Chapter