LONDON: ELLIOT STOCK, PUBLISHER, 62 PATERNOSTER ROW. BIRKENHEAD: E. GRIFFITH & SON, HAMILTON STREET. 1882. BIRKENHEAD: E. Griffith & Son, Printers, "Caxton" Works, Hamilton Street...

The interest which still follows individual ascents of Mont Blanc, notwithstanding the attraction of other mountain peaks, must be my apology for once again repeating an oft-told tale; but with this endeavour, to make the narrative a true and unvarnished account of what we did and how we did it, and to present the accompanying illustrations (which, for the most part, are taken from photographs) free from exaggeration....

Evening at Chamonix—Excursion to the Brévent—View of the Mont Blanc chain....

Commencement of the ascent—Pierre Pointue—Crossing the Glacier des Bossons—An awkward bit—"Cabane" on the Grands Mulets....

View from the Grands Mulets—A foreign invasion—Trying to sleep—Preparation for a night march....

The start at midnight—Ascending the Montées—Arrival at the Petit Plateau—An attempt at breakfast on the Grand Plateau—The expedition jeopardised through mountain sickness—Churlish "foreigners"—The ascent resumed—Repose on the Rochers des Bosses—Climbing the Mauvaise Arête—The final assault—The goal reached....

Descending the "back bone"—Approach of clouds—An unfortunate slip—Floundering in the snow—In danger—An awkward descent—In and out of the snow—The "Cabane" at last—Delicious repose—The journey resumed—Re-crossing the Glacier—A thunderstorm in the Forest des Pélerins—Welcome back....

A few words on our complexions—Certificates procured—Ladies' preparation for an attempt—Nipped in the bud—Concluding remarks....

A brief account of some of the most noted ascents—Routes to Chamonix from the Lake of Geneva....

On a delightful evening in the month of July, 1881, table d'hôte being over, my friend S—— and myself were seated under the verandah of the hotel d'Angleterre at Chamonix; there were many others besides ourselves, chiefly English and Americans, grouped in parties, some taking their coffee, others smoking, and all devoting their attention to the summit of Mont Blanc whose diadem of snow was being warmed in colour if not in reality by the last rays of the setting sun. Though seven miles off as the

The day broke bright and clear, and at six we were introduced by François to his friend, Jules Tairraz, who looked very business-like with a knapsack on his back and carrying an ice-axe and a coil of rope. The mule having overslept himself, we went on without him, and awaited his arrival under the trees at the foot of the mountain. At last the lazy brute hove in sight, walking in his usual style; then our coats, the knapsack, rope, etc., were strapped on, and by way of adding to his comfort I go

Then we were left alone. "All heaven and earth are still, though not in sleep." The sun shone brightly on the pure white snow by which we were surrounded; the air was motionless, and not a sound disturbed the stillness of that memorable afternoon. At our feet lay the Glacier des Bossons. "Heaven-descended in its origin, it yet takes its mould and conformation from the hidden womb of the mountain which brought it forth. At first soft and ductile, it acquires a character and firmness of its own, a

Our modest preparations being now completed, the rope was stretched along the narrow path, loops were made, and we were tied in the following order—François, S——, myself, then Jules. All being ready, François moved forward with a lantern, and in a couple of minutes we were fairly on the snow. All thoughts of difficulties, dangers, and what our friends would say, were left in the "Cabane," and our sole attention was devoted to the breasting of the gigantic slopes which are called Les Montées. The

Would that our stay could have been prolonged! but frail human nature cannot perform impossibilities. We had been on foot nine hours, and had a long day's work before us; furthermore we were thinly clad, and were exposed to a chilly breeze, from which no shelter could be found; so, casting a look on this indescribable scene, and with feelings of grim satisfaction that its awful stillness would never be profaned by crowds of noisy tourists and vendors of cheap articles, we commenced to retrace ou

On getting up next morning I felt rather stiff, and there was a burning sensation all over my face and ears, as though they had undergone a mild scorching. The effect of the sun's rays and radiation from the snow is very remarkable, and in a few hours the complexion is dyed the colour of mahogany. Much to our surprise, François and Jules, weather-beaten and sun-burnt as they were before going up, were several shades darker on their return. As for S—— his condition was simply deplorable, and he s

In 1760 , De Saussure paid his first visit to Chamonix, and, feeling convinced that the summit was accessible, he promised a handsome reward to anyone who discovered a practicable route, and even offered to pay the wages of all those who attempted the ascent. His guide, Pierre Simon, tried twice—once by the Tacul and once by the Bossons—but returned without success. 1775. —Four peasants managed to reach a valley of snow which appeared to lead directly to the summit, but they suffered so acutely

From Lausanne you may take the train direct to Martigny; or go by steamer from Ouchy to Villeneuve, then by rail to Martigny, and thence by private conveyance viâ Forclaz and the Tête Noire. At Forclaz you may proceed on foot and walk over the Col de Balme, giving directions to your driver to meet you at Le Tour on the other side. We started from Ouchy—a small village near Lausanne—at mid-day, and steamed along the northern shore of the lake, touching at several stations, and passing close to th

From Geneva viâ Bonneville, Cluses, and Sallenches. There is no necessity for hiring a private carriage, as there is a regular service of diligences the whole way. If possible, secure a top front seat, and if that cannot be done, take the conductor's place; he will readily give it up for a few francs. You must, however, be prepared to work the brake going down hill. Between Geneva and Bonneville the immediate scenery is not very interesting, and in dry weather this portion of the road is excepti