Journal Of An Overland Expedition In Australia
Ludwig Leichhardt
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LUDWIG LEICHHARDT (1813-1848)
LUDWIG LEICHHARDT (1813-1848)
Lagoon near South Alligator River...
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PREFACE
PREFACE
In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his surveys of the coasts parallel to my track. To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION PARTY FORMED LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE PARTY ENLARGED OUTFIT AND STORES. On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly recommended the appropriation of a sum o
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CHAPTER I
CHAPTER I
LEAVE THE LAST STATION FOSSIL REMAINS DARLING DOWNS ENTER THE WILDERNESS WATERLOO PLAINS THE CONDAMINE HEAVY RAINS CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT MURPHY AND CALEB LOST KENT'S LAGOON COAL MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN. It was at the end of September, 1844, when we completed the necessary preparations for our journey, and left the station of Messrs. Campbell and Stephens, moving slowly towards the farthest point on which the white man has established himself. We passed the stations of Messrs. Hughs and Isaac
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CHAPTER II
CHAPTER II
PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB MEET FRIENDLY NATIVES NATIVE TOMB THE DAWSON VERVAIN PLAINS GILBERT'S RANGE LYND'S RANGE ROBINSON'S CREEK MURPHY'S LAKE MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY EXPEDITION RANGE MOUNT NICHOLSON ALDIS'S PEAK THE BOYD. Nov. 3.--For the past week, the heat was very oppressive during the day, whilst, at night, it was often exceedingly cold; for two or three hours before dawn, and for an hour after sunset, it was generally delightful, particularly within the influence
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CHAPTER III
CHAPTER III
RUINED CASTLE CREEK ZAMIA CREEK BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE CHRISTMAS RANGES BROWN'S LAGOONS THUNDER-STORMS ALBINIA DOWNS COMET CREEK NATIVE CAMP. Dec. 1.--I rode to the eastward from our camp, to ascertain how far we were from the water-hole to which I had intended to conduct my party. After having ascended the gullies, and passed the low scrub and cypress-pine thicket which surrounds them, I came into the open forest, and soon found our tracks, and the lit
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CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER IV
SWARMS OF COCKATOOS ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED NATIVE FAMILY THE MACKENZIE COAL NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM MOUNT STEWART BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY NEUMAN'S CREEK ROPER'S PEAK CALVERT'S PEAK GILBERT'S DOME GREAT WANT OF WATER. Jan. 1, 1845.--After a ride of about four miles down the creek, we came to a deep hole of good water, that had been filled by the late thunder-storms, the traces of which, however, had disappeared
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CHAPTER V
CHAPTER V
DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN HUGHS'S CREEK TOMBSTONE CREEK CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY THE ISAACS NATIVE WOMEN COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES BROWN FOLLOWS HIM BOTH RETURN PENITENT VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER SKULL OF NATIVE FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP. Feb. 2.--Being much recovered, I took both Blackfellows with me, and again passed the defile east of Roper's and Scott's Peaks, and follo
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CHAPTER VI
CHAPTER VI
HEADS OF THE ISAACS THE SUTTOR FLINT-ROCK INDICATIONS OF WATER DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US EASTER SUNDAY ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN A BARTER WITH THEM MOUNT M'CONNEL. I was detained at this place from the 1st to the 4th March, from a severe attack of lumbago, which I had brought on by incautiously and, perhaps, unnecessarily exposing myself to the weather, in my botanical and other pursuits. On the 4th March. I had suffici
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CHAPTER VII
CHAPTER VII
THE BURDEKIN TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE ROCKS THACKER'S RANGE WILD FIGS GEOLOGICAL REMARKS THE CLARKE THE PERRY. As this place afforded every convenience for killing and curing another bullock, we remained here for that purpose from the 29th March to the 2nd of April. The weather was favourable for our operations, and I took two sets of lunar observations, the first of which gave me longitude 146 degrees 1 minutes, and the second, 145 degrees 58 minutes. The mornings were ge
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CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER VIII
BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL NIGHT WATCH ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY MOUNT LANG STREAMS OF LAVA A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN NATIVE TRIBE MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT WHITSUNDAY BIG ANT HILL CREEK DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS FRIENDLY NATIVES SEPARATION CREEK THE LYND PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS NATIVE CAMP SALT EXHAUSTED. May 1.--We travelled west by north, to latitude 18 degrees 55 minutes 41 seconds, over almost a dead fl
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CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER IX
THE STARRY HEAVENS SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE SAWFISH TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES THE MITCHELL MURPHY'S PONY POISONED GREEN TREE-ANT NEW BEVERAGE CROCODILE AUDACITY OF KITES NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED. June 1.--Mr. Gilbert and Charley made an excursion down the river last night, to look for water, but, as they did not return in the morning, and as water had been found, after they left, about four miles lower
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CHAPTER X
CHAPTER X
INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA NATIVES MUCH MORE NUMEROUS THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA THE STAATEN A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP THE VAN DIEMEN THE GILBERT SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS CARON RIVER FRIENDLY NATIVES THE YAPPAR MR. CALVERT RECOVERED MODE OF ENCAMPMENT SWARMS OF FLIES ABUNDANCE OF SALT NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT. July 1.--We left the camp where Mr. Gilbert was killed, and travelled in all about fourteen miles south-west, to lat. 16 degrees 6 minutes. We passed
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CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XI
SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES NATIVE CARVING AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING EMUS BEAMES'S BROOK THE NICHOLSON RECONNOITRE BY NIGHT SMITH'S CREEK THE MARLOW. August 1.--We travelled about seven miles west by north. Silver-leaved Ironbark ridges, of a dreary aspect, and covered with small shining brown iron pebbles, alternating with small plains and box-flats
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CHAPTER XII
CHAPTER XII
HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE CAMP TURNER'S CREEK WENTWORTH'S CREEK JOURNALS LOST; FOUND AGAIN THE VAN ALPHEN IMPORTANCE OF TEA CHOICE OF BULLOCKS FOR AN EXPEDITION CHOICE OF A DOG THE CALVERT THE ABEL TASMAN GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS SEVEN EMU RIVER CROCODILE THE ROBINSON SHOAL OF PORPOISES NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD MR. ROPER CONVALESCENT WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES SUCCEED IN DRESSIN
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CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIII
CAPE MARIA OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF NATURAL HISTORY LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER HABITS OF WATER BIRDS NATIVE FISH TRAP THE FOUR ARCHERS THE WICKHAM THE DOG DIES IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE THE ROPER THREE HORSES DROWNED OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL COLLECTION MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES, CIRCUMCISED HODGSON'S CREEK THE WILTON ANOTHER HORSE DROWNED ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP FRUSTRATED BOILS BASALT AGAIN INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE SEE
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CHAPTER XIV
CHAPTER XIV
INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE DISTRESSING HEAT A HORSE STAKED: IT DIES MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES MAGNIFICENT VALLEY FRIENDLY NATIVES SHOT EXHAUSTED INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS SOUTH ALLIGATOR RIVER FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS THEIR LANGUAGE MIRAGE. Nov. 1.--We reached lat. 14 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds, having travelled about nine miles north-west by north. A range composed of baked sandstone, approached so close to the banks of "Flying-Fox Creek," that we we
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CHAPTER XV
CHAPTER XV
JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH THEY ARE VERY FRIENDLY ALLAMURR DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY EAST ALLIGATOR RIVER CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY NATIVES STILL MORE INTELLIGENT NYUALL BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY SPRUNG NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US MOUNT MORRIS BAY RAFFLES BAY LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK BEHIND BILL WHITE ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON VOYAGE TO SYDNEY. Dec. 1.--We travelled about eleven or twelve miles
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APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT. Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, 25th June, 1846. Sir,--I do myself the honour to inform you that the Auditor General has been requested to prepare a warrant for the payment, out of the Crown Revenue, of a gratuity of 1000 pounds to yourself and party which accompanied you in your recent expedition to Port Essington; in consideration of the successful issue of that very perilous enterprise; the fortitude and perseverance displayed by the
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