Kathay: A Cruise In The China Seas
W. Hastings Macaulay
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32 chapters
CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Set Sail​—​Sea-sickness​—​Get a good offing​—​Sail ho!​—​Islets of St. Paul​—​Shipwreck there​—​Sufferings​—​Crossing the Line​—​Fernando Noronha​—​Fire​—​Remarkable peak​—​Arrival at Rio​—​Disappointment​—​Beauties of the harbor​—​Ashore at last​—​Village of San Domingo​—​Flying trip to city​—​Yellow fever​—​All hands up anchor​—​Sugarloaf Mountain​—​Off for the Cape. Immediately after noon, upon the 29th day of January, 1850, we east off from the wharf at the Navy Yard in Charlestown, Massachu
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Telling Tales out of School​—​Double the Cape​—​The Flying Dutchman​—​Albatross and Cape Pigeons​—​Catching the Albatross​—​The Man who Ate the Albatross​—​Superstition of Sailors​—​Man Overboard​—​Lying to​—​Accident​—​Death​—​The Sailor's Grave. It is very difficult to find incidents on board of a man-of-war which you can feel justified in setting before the public; for be it known, in regard to the "secrets of this prison-house," that "such unwonted blazon may not be." Now, on board a merchan
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Island of St. Paul​—​Steering for JavaHead​—​Land ho!​—​Christmas Island​—​Straits of Sunda​—​A Beautiful Scene​—​Sentimental Simile​—​Come to Anchor​—​Anger Point​—​Village of Anger​—​On Shore in Java​—​Perfume of the East​—​Banyan Tree​—​The Governor and Dutch Hotel Keeper​—​Welcome at an Inn​—​Attack on Anger Fort​—​Dutch Officers' prowess, and French!​—​The Javanese​—​Chinaman​—​Mosque​—​Mahomet​—​Bazaar​—​Watering Place. To make the island of Saint Paul in the Indian Ocean, became now our p
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
China Sea​—​Anchor off Macào​—​Canton River​—​Whampoa​—​Trip to Canton​—​The San-pan​—​Pagodas​—​Lob Creek​—​Salt Junks​—​Description of a Junk​—​Mandarin, or Search Boats​—​Pirates​—​Crowded state of River at Canton​—​Land at Factory Stairs​—​Visit Vice-Consul​—​New China Street​—​A Cow-House​—​Wonders of Canton​—​Factory Gardens​—​Water Parties​—​Buddhist Temples, and Holy Pigs​—​Dock-yard at Whampoa​—​American Missionary at Newtown​—​Bethel, and its Pastor​—​Fourth of July​—​Back to Macào​—​T
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Passage Ashore​—​A-ti​—​The Praya​—​Forts​—​Governor's Road​—​Description of Macào​—​Murder of Amaral​—​Manoeuvring of Seu and his Triumph​—​A new Governor​—​His Death​—​Council of Government​—​View from Guia Fort​—​Marques' Garden​—​Camoen's Grotto​—​Epitaph and Doggerel written there​—​A Beautiful Spot​—​Stealing Fire from the Gods​—​Fate of Prometheus. Leaving the Typa in a fast boat, we were soon opposite the town, when we were obliged to re-embark on board one of a fleet of Tanka boats, whi
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Up the Canton River again​—​Bay of Canton​—​Bocca Tigris​—​Forts at the Bogue​—​Their Construction​—​Conduct of Chinese when Attacked​—​The Feast of Lanterns​—​the Rebellion​—​Paddy Fields and Mosquitoes​—​Back to Typa​—​Pleasant Times​—​Blowing up of a Frigate! A rebellion had broken out in the province adjoining that of Kwang-tung; and as the insurgents had made rapid advances towards the capital, our consul there thought our presence in the neighborhood might prove beneficial to American inte
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Visit Hong-Kong​—​A beautiful Morning​—​Harbor of Hong-Kong​—​Settlement of Victoria​—​Line-of-battle ship Hastings​—​Forecastle logic​—​An arrival from the Northern Seas​—​Her B. M. S. Herald​—​Salutes​—​Description of Victoria​—​Club House​—​Health of Hong-Kong​—​Death vacancies​—​Feasting and Fêtes​—​Ball​—​Pic-Nic​—​Departure from Hong-Kong. A visit to Hong-Kong had been some time in contemplation, and accordingly on Friday afternoon, twenty-ninth of November, we unmoored, and at three o'clo
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
China​—​Limited opportunities​—​The Chinese nation compared with others​—​Its antiquity​—​Magnitude of territory and practicability of laws​—​Supposed origin of the Chinese​—​Fables of their early writers​—​Explanation of their exaggerations​—​Foundation of the Empire​—​Chinese traditions compared with sacred history​—​Similarity of events​—​Wise men of the East​—​Introduction of Buddhism​—​Arts and Sciences​—​The Magnetic Needle​—​Discovery of Gunpowder​—​Origin of the name​—​China​—​Che-Hwang-
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Christmas and the New Year in Macào​—​Removal of remains of Da Cunha​—​The Dead give place to the Quick​—​Chinese manner of Fishing​—​A new principle in Hydraulics​—​Inspection of Macào Militia​—​An ancient Cemetery​—​Arrival of the new Governor, Cardoza​—​Under way for Manilla​—​Fetch up at Hong-Kong​—​Another Start​—​Island of Luconia​—​Bay of Manilla​—​Earthquake​—​Discovery and Settlement of the Philippines​—​Description of Manilla​—​The Calzada​—​A puppet-show. Christmas was passed by me a
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Drive to the Balsa​—​Meaning of the word​—​A Mob of Women​—​Nora Creena​—​Magic, slipper​—​Description of the drive​—​Ferryman of the Females​—​Decline the office​—​The Suburbs​—​A la Balsa​—​Manilla, intra murales​—​The Mole by Moonlight​—​Friend in a fit​—​Circo Olympico​—​Scenes in the Circle. Up betimes upon the morning of our second day on shore, for a drive to the Balsa. The word, in English, means pool or raft, and the road over which we drove led to a ferry over a stream, which you cross
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
An early drive​—​Visit to Churches​—​The Cathedral​—​dash;​Description​—​Reflections​—​Church of the Binondo Quarter​—​The Dead Child​—​Baptism​—​Life's Entrances and Exit​—​Ceremony of taking the Veil​—​Poor Maraquita​—​An Episode​—​Don Cæsar de Bazan​—​Interior of the Convent​—​Interview with the Lady Superior​—​Interchange of compliments​—​Spanish Courtesy​—​An admission. Sunday morning, took an early drive upon one of the beautiful roads that penetrate the interior of this fruitful island, a
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Fabrico del Tobago​—​Manufacture of the Cheroot​—​Description of the process​—​Female Operatives​—​Gigantic effects​—​Midshipman attacked​—​A delightful Evening​—​Boat ahoy​—​Disappointed in trip to Lagunade Bay​—​Funcion Familia​—​Madame Theodore​—​The Calçada again​—​Margarita​—​Teatro Binondo​—​Teatro Tagalo de Tondo​—​Espana​—​Anecdote of an Englishman​—​Farewell to Manilla​—​Out to Sea. The greatest curiosity of Manilla is its Tobacco Manufactory, or rather the Segar Factory, for it is only
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
Anchor in Harbor of Hong-Kong​—​Hastings and Herald both off​—​Advantage of Newspapers​—​A First-rate notice​—​The Press of Victoria​—​The Friend of China​—​Its pugnacity​—​Advertising Sheets​—​Description of Island​—​Rain​—​Character of Chinese Inhabitants. Our passage to Hong-Kong was unmarked by any incident worthy of especial notice; and we reached that harbor safely upon the second of March, and came to anchor. Found every thing in about the same condition as when we left, and a large fleet
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Hong-Kong​—​Object of its Settlement​—​Its service as an Opium Depot​—​Views of the Opium Trade​—​Its History​—​Considered the cause and object of the War​—​Treaty of Nankin​—​Opium Trade fixed on China. The principal advantage possessed by Hong-Kong—I shall designate the settlement henceforth by the name assigned to it by common consent—is the facility its position affords for carrying on the trade in opium, which deleterious drug will continue to be introduced into China, in spite of the stron
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Trip to Macào​—​Disappointed in getting ashore​—​Mai arrived​—​Get no Letters​—​Expression of Sentiments​—​Causes and Effects​—​Overland Mail​—​Idea of a Route​—​Happy Valley​—​Chase of Pirates​—​ A Poisson d'Avril ​—​Into the Typa again​—​Arrival of Consort​—​Late Dates​—​Catholic Fête​—​Depart for Shanghae​—​The Yang-tse-Kiang​—​Improvement in the appearance of the Country​—​Better race of Men​—​Banks of the Woo-sung. Took a trip over to Macào, for a supply of provisions, our dépôt being there
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
Shanghae​—​Immense number of Junks​—​Foreign Residences​—​Novelty of Chimneys​—​Revolting appearance of Beggars​—​Undertakers​—​Price of Coffins​—​Decline Trading​—​Description of City​—​Stagnant Pools​—​Tea Gardens​—​Sweet Site​—​The Taoutae​—​Advantages of Shanghae​—​Departure​—​Ship Ashore!​—​Sensation. Shanghae is situated in about 30° 26' N. latitude; longitude 120° 48' East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign r
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
Amoy​—​Its Trade​—​Cause of Decay​—​Infanticide​—​Manner of destroying Female Infants​—​China Woman's Confession​—​Environs​—​British and American Cemeteries​—​The Fatal Rock​—​Koo-lung-Seu​—​Chinese Gunnery​—​Chinese Customs​—​Marriage​—​Death​—​Manner of Mourning​—​Pagoda of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan. On the morning of the 29th of May, came into the port of Amoy and anchored. Communicated with our Consul, who stated that our commerce was very small at that point, and although it is connected with the t
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CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Formosa​—​Description of the Island​—​Its productions​—​Coal Mines​—​Metals​—​The Dutch Possessions​—​Their Expulsion​—​Proper policy of Civilized Powers. The island of Formosa—from going on which we so narrowly escaped—is destined from its position and importance, to become, at a time not long future, a place of considerable trade for both Europeans and Americans, as it is now indeed with the Chinese of the neighboring provinces of Fo-Kien and Che-Kiang on the main land. As its name implies, it
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CHAPTER XIX.
CHAPTER XIX.
Leave Amoy​—​Arrive in Macào Roads​—​Live ashore​—​Well guarded​—​Night calls​—​Ventriloquist at Typa Fort​—​Ordered on board​—​Up to Whampoa​—​Clipper Ships​—​Over to Hong-Kong​—​Coronation day​—​Independence day​—​Hurried on board​—​The mail​—​Ty-foongs. Came to anchor in Macào Roads on the 4th of June, having made the passage to Shanghae and back in just forty days, including stoppage there, at Amoy, and delay from getting aground on Formosa. Left Amoy on the 31st of May, and ran down the coa
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CHAPTER XX.
CHAPTER XX.
Ty-foong passed​—​Pleasant Season​—​Theatrical Exhibition​—​The Macàense​—​Philharmonic Society​—​Italian Opera​—​Awaiting Orders for Home​—​Thoughts of Home and Friends​—​Idea suggested by the Setting Sun​—​Poetry​—​Maladie de Pays​—​Its effects upon the Swiss​—​A Remedy​—​My own Experience​—​And manner of Cure. The symptoms of the Ty-foong having passed over, and all fears of its recurrence at an end, time went pleasantly by at Macào. The temperature was most delightful, this season being cert
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CHAPTER XXI.
CHAPTER XXI.
Haul up all standing​—​Boat Races​—​Interest in the sport​—​Excitement general​—​Arrangements​—​Jockeyism​—​Regatta​—​Preparations​—​The Start​—​The Race​—​The Result​—​Launch and First Cutter​—​Race described con-amore​—​Suggestion of an Old Salt​—​Satan and Sailors. But I must cease my digressions, lest my sickness become epidemic, and extend to my readers, in which event I should fear they would not be "at home" to me. To continue: To fill up the time, and give some relaxation to the men, had
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CHAPTER XXII.
CHAPTER XXII.
Effects of the Race​—​Suppers and their effects​—​The stuff that Dreams are made of​—​A Scrape in the Typa​—​Again at Whampoa. Some suppers had to be ordered, and somebody had to eat them. Suppers are spiritless affairs without wine—nay! I deny the soft impeachment,—no pun is meant ! And wine came forth at the bidding. Some one observes, Let him but whisper the name of one "familiar" of any shade, complexion, or color within the corridors of Francisco Diaz's mansion for thirsty men, in Macào; an
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CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Anson's Bay​—​Hong-Kong again​—​P. & O. Company's hulk takes fire​—​Escape of Captain's wife​—​Toong-Koo Bay​—​Piracy​—​Fire at Macào​—​Wolf again at Whampoa​—​Amateur Theatricals at Canton​—​Melancholy musings. From Whampoa, came down the river to Anson's Bay and anchored; here held communication with our consort, which went up to the "Reach" to take our place. Anson's Bay is just outside of the Bogue, and from our anchorage had a fine view of the Forts, some eight or nine being in sigh
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CHAPTER XXIV.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Commodore arrives at last​—​Preparations for a Start​—​Delay​—​Washington's Birthday​—​The Clipper Challenge​—​Prisoners from her​—​Homeward Bound!​—​Reflections on Leaving​—​Case of Small-Pox​—​Second visit to Anger. The flag-ship being now daily expected, we unmoored, and came down to Macào, awaiting her arrival in the outer Roads. Lay there, rolling, with occasional trips on shore, until the fourth of February, when the Commodore's broad pendant hove in sight. He anchored in the roads: and af
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CHAPTER XXV.
CHAPTER XXV.
No Musquitoes at Anger​—​The Land of the East​—​A Sketch​—​Advantages of Anger​—​Dolce-far-Niente​—​Island of Java​—​Batavia​—​Bantam​—​Comparison between Anger and Singapore. A peculiarity about Anger is, that there are no musquitoes there, and very few of the noxious vermin that destroy the romance of tropical climes. It does very well in poetry, to pen, in pretty phrase, the query of your acquaintance with the but they are more than poetically "emblems of deeds that are done in their clime,"
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CHAPTER XXVI.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Pass through Sunda Strait​—​H. B. M. S. Rattler​—​Catch the Trades​—​A learned opinion on Diaries​—​Extracts from Diary​—​Isle of France​—​Its Romance​—​Bourbon​—​Mauritius​—​Cape of Good Hope​—​Description​—​Trouble in getting in​—​Table Bay and Mountain. In passing through the Straits, after leaving Anger, H. B. M. screw propeller "Rattler" went up on her way to China. Did not envy her officers, nor feel at all inclined to exchange with them. Ran out of the Straits with a fine leading wind, ta
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CHAPTER XXVII.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Land at Cape Town​—​Hotels and Widows​—​Drive to Constantia​—​Description of Drive​—​Price of Wine​—​Manumission of Slaves​—​Seasons at the Cape​—​The Town through a Microscope, &c. &c. Landed at Cape Town on a fine jetty, which projects some distance into the bay. This, with another about a mile above, are the only landing places. Stopped at "Parke's Hotel," at its head. This is kept by a widow lady, and a spruce dandy of a mulatto superintends its internal arrangements in the c
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CHAPTER XXVIII.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Settlement of Cape Town​—​Its productions​—​The Kaffir War​—​Latest dispatches​—​Cause of the Rebellion​—​Description of the Kaffir by the Traveller​—​Opinion of him by the Resident​—​Authority of prominent men​—​Observatory, &c. Within larger limits I would willingly indulge in a more extended description of Southern Africa, which is set down by geographers as the "Cape Region;" but as each day now diminishes our cruise, so does each chapter deprive me of space for digression, and I mus
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CHAPTER XXIX.
CHAPTER XXIX.
A Death on board​—​Our Freight​—​Extracts from Diary​—​St. Helena and Napoleon​—​The Trades​—​Poetical idea of a starry Telegraph​—​Good Sailing. One of the invalids, whom we were bringing home from the squadron, died and was buried at Cape Town. Poor fellow, he was never destined to see his native land again. His disease, consumption, with the usual tendency of that complaint, made rapid advances as we drew near land. He had resigned himself to die, and his repeated wish was that we might reach
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CHAPTER XXX.
CHAPTER XXX.
Classic Ground​—​Hispaniola​—​Romance of the Western Waters​—​Extracts from Diary​—​On a Wind​—​Newsboats wanted​—​The Bermudas​—​Target practice. We are now upon what might be called with poetical license, "classic ground." Over these seas the small caravels of Columbus sought the land, which had appeared to him in dreams, which we can now hardly look upon as less than inspired. To-day, the eighth of June, we are in the latitude of the south side of Cuba, along the shores of which he coasted, m
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CHAPTER XXXI.
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Gulf Stream​—​Darby's Theory​—​Its ingenuity​—​The Coasts of America​—​John Cabot, the Venetian​—​" Terra Primum Visa "​—​Completion of Cruise​—​Conclusion. Thursday, June 17th. —Have at last got amongst the variable winds, for we struck a breeze yesterday immediately after exercising, and went pitching along at the rate of eight knots before dark. Sea quite rough. This morning calm again. Have touched the edge of the Gulf Stream, judging from the temperature of the water, and general appear
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Attractive Books of Travel, History and Biography. RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY GEO. P. PUTNAM, 10 PARK PLACE.
Attractive Books of Travel, History and Biography. RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY GEO. P. PUTNAM, 10 PARK PLACE.
Pg. 191, "unobstrusive" changed to "obtrusive". (his unobstrusive manners) Pg. 196, unmatched doublequote marks in block of quoted speech: "if Britannia ... to the " Line !". To avoid ambiguity, this has been changed to "if Britannia ... to the ' Line !'". Pg. 214, paragraph ending with '... robbery and murder.' In the original text this paragraph ended with a doublequote mark indicating that some portion of the paragraph was quoted speech. However an opening doublequote mark was missing and it
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