The Ecclesiastical Architecture Of Scotland From The Earliest Christian Times To The Seventeenth Century

THE ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE OF SCOTLAND FROM THE EARLIEST CHRISTIAN TIMES TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

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PREFACE.

While engaged upon their work on The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland , the authors were frequently brought in contact with the various ecclesiastical structures throughout the country, and they naturally availed themselves of such opportunities to make notes and sketches of these interesting edifices. These notes and sketches, together with others made during a long series of years, formed a considerable fund of information and a collection of drawings, the possession of which

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INTRODUCTION.

Among the various branches of Mediæval Art in Europe, the Church Architecture of Scotland fills an interesting and valuable place. This country cannot claim to have originated a new style in the sense in which the Ile de France gave birth to pointed Gothic, but it can show a continuous series of Christian structures, beginning with the primitive cells and oratories of the early Anchorites, and extending through all the periods of Mediæval Art. Two distinct phases of artistic development are exem

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EARLY ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND.

The ecclesiastical structures of the early centuries which still survive in Scotland are of the type of the stone erections above described in the monasteries of Ireland. The beehive huts and oratories of the parent eremitical establishments in the latter country are represented by a few similar collections of structures which yet remain in the remote islands and distant parts of Scotland. Groups of dry-built beehive huts (or the remains of them), surrounding one or more primitive churches, can

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ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE.

After the fall of the Roman empire in the fifth century, a debased style founded on Roman models prevailed over Western Europe, and Fig. 13. —Roman Arch—Pont du Gard. as the various waves of barbarians swept over the empire and settled in different parts of it, they adopted the Roman system of construction which they found in existence, and imported into it gradually ideas of their own. In course of time a method of building was thus developed which is known as the Romanesque style. This style v

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NORMAN STYLE.

This style is easily recognised by its simple and massive forms and its semi-circular arches. The exterior ( Fig. 17 ) is generally plain, with broad and slightly projecting buttresses attached to the building, and sometimes Fig. 17. —Church of St. Cross, Hampshire. Elevation of the East End. (From Britton’s Antiquities .) crowned with pinnacles. The doorways are, however, generally treated in a more ornamental manner. They are often deeply recessed, and have the jambs decorated with a series of

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NORMAN STYLE IN SCOTLAND.

Of the cathedrals, monasteries, and churches erected in Scotland during the twelfth century, only a few portions now exist, nearly all of them having been reconstructed or altered at later times. The Cathedral of Dunblane still retains a tower of the foundation of King David; and in the nave of the Cathedral of Kirkwall, commenced 1136, we yet possess a noble Norman structure, which, however, we owe to the piety of the Norwegian occupants of the Orkneys. Of the monastic foundations of St. Margar

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FIRST POINTED STYLE.

The Norman style of architecture continued to prevail in England till near the close of the twelfth century, and in Scotland for some time thereafter. At that period a further and completer development awaited the architecture of the Middle Ages. We have seen that the “subordination” of all the parts had been achieved, together with the use of the groined vault, with its accompanying buttresses and pinnacles, in the round arched style. The employment of the round arch was, however, found to invo

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FIRST POINTED STYLE IN SCOTLAND.

In Scotland, as might be expected, from its remoteness from the centre of origin, and from the fact that the pointed style was imported into this country through England, pointed architecture is not only somewhat later in appearing, but is to some extent modified in its developments. The main characteristics of the early pointed style of this country are, however, founded on those of England, and show no traces of any direct influence from France. The principal difference between Scottish and En

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ARCHITECTURE OF FOURTEENTH, FIFTEENTH, AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES IN SCOTLAND.

The reigns of Alexander II. and III., extending from 1214 to 1286, comprised the first pointed work in Scotland. Those reigns were characterised by quietness and prosperity at home and peace abroad. The Norman invasion of the previous century seemed to have become complete, and the country had settled down and accepted the new conditions imported from the South, both as regards matters secular and ecclesiastic. The king’s writ extended all over the land, except in the Western and Northern Island

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MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED STYLE.

Towards the close of the thirteenth century a considerable change occurred in the features of Gothic architecture throughout Europe. The development of the pointed style had progressed steadily, and all the details had become lighter and more ornate. The tracery of the windows especially marks the decorated period. This feature, as we have seen, was invented in the previous epoch, but now became fully developed, especially in France. In the design of the tracery the eye, which at first had been

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MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED STYLE IN SCOTLAND.

For the reasons above stated, the middle pointed work in Scotland is somewhat varied from that of England and the Continent, especially in details. It also extends over a longer space of time, and gradually merges into the succeeding or third pointed style. Until Bruce was firmly established on the throne, church building was entirely at a standstill. But after 1314, architecture received some encouragement from the king and began to revive. Melrose Abbey was especially the recipient of the roya

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THIRD OR LATE POINTED STYLE.

In the latter half of the fourteenth century, Gothic art, both in France and England, again showed symptoms of a change of character. In France the architects seemed to have exhausted their powers of development as regards constructional elements, and were now occupied with the elaboration of details. The earlier geometric tracery now assumed a very flowing character, which, from the flame-like shapes of the bars of the stone work, was called “Flamboyant.” In England, on the other hand, the trac

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THIRD OR LATE POINTED STYLE IN SCOTLAND.

During the latter part of the fifteenth and in the sixteenth centuries the erection of cathedrals and monasteries in Scotland was almost entirely superseded by collegiate churches. These structures are generally designed on a cruciform plan, with a central tower over the crossing. They have usually a porch at the south-west and a sacristy at the north-east angle, and occasionally one or more chantry chapels attached. Except in the larger examples of collegiate churches, such as St. Giles’ and Tr

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THE CELTIC MONASTIC AND ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES IN SCOTLAND, CHIEFLY AS ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED IN THE WORKS OF THE LATE T. S. MUIR.

It has been shown in the Introduction that Christianity was brought to Scotland in the sixth century by the Celtic missionaries from Ireland, and that, after it had endured for seven centuries, the monastic Church of the Columbans, was superseded by the Roman ecclesiastical system. Each of these phases of Christianity possessed its own form of architecture—the one derived from the features peculiar to the Celtic style of building, and the other from the development of the Romanesque architecture

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EILEAN NAOMH, Argyleshire.

An extremely interesting example of the remains of an early monastic establishment on the Irish model is that on Eilean Naomh, one of the Fig. 27. Fig. 28. Eilean Naomh. Beehive Hut. Garvelloch Islands, which lie about three miles west of Lunga, off the coast of Argyleshire. About the middle of the island, and on the south-east side, stand the ruins of several structures. “One of the largest and most entire is obviously a church internally 21 feet 7 inches in length, constructed, like all the ot

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SKEABOST, Skye.

“In an islet in the river Snizort at this place there is an open burying-ground Fig. 31. —Skeabost, Skye. East Elevation. containing a group of five or six chapels, the shell of two pretty entire, the others reduced nearly to the ground. Of the former, the one least perfect ( Fig. 31 ) is a featureless building, externally 82 feet in length; the other—probably that mentioned in the Originales Parochiales as dedicated to St. Columba—is externally 21 feet in length, and has a flat-headed window (

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MUGSTOT, Skye.

“Mugstot, properly Monkstead, stands on a slightly elevated spot surrounded by a swampy meadow, formerly the bed of a lake, some two or three miles from Uig, in the direction of Kilmuir Kirk. Like Skeabost, it exhibits a group of greatly ruinated buildings, three in number, standing in a line from north to south. The southernmost building, which is 22 feet long inside, and pointed east and west, is the least dilapidated, and evidently the Chapel of St. Columba mentioned by Martin. The intermedia

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HOWMORE, South Uist.

At Mr. Muir’s first visit there were here remains of a group of five chapels ( Fig. 33 ) all close together, but on his second visit he found one removed. “The missing one was a very characteristic building, the smallest of the group, with a very narrow rectangular window and a short sloping doorway in the east end. Externally it measured only 17½ feet in length. Fig. 33. —Hoghmore, South Uist. Of those still remaining, the largest has been about 60 feet in length. Scarcely anything of it is sta

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KILBAR, Barra.

In a burying-ground, “three dilapidated chapels, resembling very much those at Howmore. The largest ( Fig. 35 ) (supposed to be that of St. Barr), (1) is externally 42 feet in length; the end walls nearly away, the north and south walls nearly entire. The north side has a rude triangular-headed doorway ( Fig. 36 ) enclosed in a semi-circular arch, and a triangular-headed window on its east. In the south wall there are three windows of the same form—two of them together near its east end, and one

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THE CHAPEL OF ST. RONAN, North Rona.

The small solitary island of Rona lies about thirty-eight miles north-eastwards from the Butt of Lewis, and about the same distance from Cape Wrath. It is about one mile long and the same in width. Such an island, so far from land, formed a meet spot for the dwelling of an early Anchorite, and here is still preserved the Chapel of St. Ronan. The island was twice visited by Mr. Muir, who thus describes the chapel:— “Of this rude and diminutive building [the eastern chamber] not much can be said.

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TEAMPULL SULA SGEIR.

On a narrow and lofty rock, not more than one-third of a mile in Fig. 39. —Teampull Sula Sgeir. length, situated ten or twelve miles to the south-west of North Rona and about forty miles from the Butt of Lewis, there exists “a rude chapel, with a stone roof, called Tigh Beannaichte (blessed house), internally 14 feet in length.” “In a comparatively level spot, closely surrounded by rocks, there is a low, rough, oval-shaped chapel ( Fig. 39 ), internally measuring no more than 14 feet in length [

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FLANNAIN ISLES, OR SEVEN HUNTERS.

Several wild unapproachable Islands lying to the Westwards of Lewis . Eilean Mòr, the largest of the group (about one-third of a mile in extent), has precipitous sides and a flat grassy plain on the top, which slopes to the south-west. Fig. 41. —Teampull Beannachadh. West End. “The chapel of St. Flann, or Teampull Beannachadh (blessing) as it is commonly called ... stands nakedly about the middle of the slope, unenclosed and with no indications of having ever been surrounded by a burial-ground.

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(A) CHURCHES DRY-BUILT AND CHURCHES WITH SLOPING JAMBS. TIGH BEANNACHADH, Lewis.

Numerous ruins and fragments of chapels are found on the west coast of Lewis. Among these, near Gallowhead, the great west headland of the island, stands ( Fig. 43 ) Tigh Beannachadh (blessing house), “a not Fig. 43. —Tigh Beannachadh, Gallowhead. greatly dilapidated chapel [a simple oblong], internally 18 feet 2 inches in length [by 10 feet 4 inches], with a broken east window, having an altar beside it and a doorway, and a niche in each of the side walls; the south doorway entire and flat-head

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DUN OTHAIL, Lewis.

On a narrow “shelf, in the face of a high precipice, under Dun Othail, about ten miles south of the Butt, is found the ground work of a chapel, internally 17 feet long and 11 feet 3 inches wide, with remains of the south doorway. The walls are 4 feet thick, and there is no cement used .” [81]...

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CARINISH, North Uist.

At the south end of the island, Teampull-na-Trianaide (Trinity Church) consists of two not greatly dilapidated buildings of unequal size, the larger and more ruinated one internally 62 feet in length. The only detail, Fig. 44. a broken round-headed doorway near west end of north wall. Connected with it on that side by a low semi-circular vaulted passage ( Fig. 44 ), lighted by a small flat-headed window on each side, is the other chapel, 23 feet in length. This building is probably of considerab

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(B) SIMPLE OBLONG CHURCHES WITH MODIFIED FEATURES.

1. CARA, off Gigha, Kintyre . A chapel, 29 feet long externally; masonry rude, but with a good deal of character. East and west ends nearly entire. Doorway about Fig. 45. middle of north side. Window in north wall 3 feet 4 inches long and flat-headed. ( Fig. 45. ) No opening in east end. [84]...

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2. EILEAN MUNDE, Lochleven.

An island near the mouth of Glencoe, containing ruins of a church internally 50 feet long, with two flat-headed windows in south side and one in north side. East end blank. [85]...

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3. CHURCH OF HOLY CROSS, South Galston, Lewis.

Church, 18 feet 7 inches long by 12 feet wide. Windows flat-headed, one in east end and one in east end of both side walls; west end blank. Doorway, broken, is south-west. [86]...

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4. TEAMPULL PHEADAIR, Lewis.

Remains, 63 feet long externally. In east end a flat-headed window 3 feet 5 inches high and 6 inches wide; in south wall five windows of much larger size, and apparently of comparatively modern date. North side and west end blank. [87]...

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5. ST. AULA, Gress, Lewis.

Church, 18 feet 10 inches long by 14 feet wide, slightly dilapidated. One window narrow and flat-headed in west end, and in south wall flat-headed door and window. Over door a stone with date 1685, in which year the building probably underwent repairs. [88]...

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6. TOEHEAD, Harris.

Church, internally 21 feet by 10 feet 2 inches. Windows, one in east end, one in west gable, one in south wall, and one, together with doorway, in north wall, are mere flat-headed slits, the east one 8 inches wide. Under east window stone altar, still entire. [89]...

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7. NUNTOWN, Benbecula.

A small chapel, externally 25 feet by 16 feet, within enclosed burying-ground, almost perfect shell, windows small, narrow, and flat in head, two in each side and one in east end; the latter 19 inches high and 5 inches wide. Doorway, a rude flat-headed aperture, surmounted by a square niche, is in west end. [90]...

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8. PABBA, Sound of Harris.

Ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel, externally 40 feet 9 inches in length and 19 feet 9 inches wide. Doorway flat-headed, 2 feet 2 inches wide, in west end. Above it, narrow flat-headed window, and a similar window near east end of both side walls. [91]...

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9. KILMUIR, Skye.

Church of “considerable age,” much altered. Doorway and windows small, flat-headed, and deeply recessed inside. Arched recesses in side walls for tombs. [92]...

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10. TRUMPAN, Skye.

Old chapel, 51 feet long externally. In east end one short narrow window and two in north wall, all flat-headed. Rudely arched doorway in north elevation. [93]...

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The following show signs of Norman influence.

11. ST. CARMAIG, Kiels, Knapdale . Fig. 46. —Kiels, Knapdale. Exterior East Elevation. The church is a rudely constructed oblong, externally 42 feet in length by 21 feet in width, roofless. Windows—one close to east end of north Fig. 47. —Keils, Knapdale. Interior East Elevation. wall, two in south, and one with round arch in middle of east elevation. (Figs. 46, 47.) West wall blank. Windows flat except east one. [94]...

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12. KILMORY, Knapdale.

Church, rudely constructed oblong, internally 38 feet in length by 17 feet in width. Walls well preserved. Doorway near west end of south wall. Four windows; one near east end of side walls, and two together in east elevation. Side windows small rectangular apertures; east one slightly moulded and semi-circular top. [95] (Figs. 48, 49.) Fig. 48. —Kilmory, Knapdale. Exterior East End Elevation. Fig. 49. —Kilmory, Knapdale. Interior East End Elevation....

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13. TIREE (Ithica Terra of Adamnan).

Kirkapoll. —A very rudely-constructed chapel, internally 36 feet 9 inches long. In west end a plain round doorway ( Fig. 50 ), 6 feet high, Fig. 50. —Kirkapoll, Tiree. Doorway. rudely arched with slates, and having a small Latin cross on its south side. In south wall a round-headed door and two round-headed Fig. 51. —Kirkapoll, Tiree. Window. windows, with great splay internally ( Fig. 51 ); the north elevation blank. [96] On a neighbouring hillock there is another chapel, internally 23 feet 5 i

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(C) CHURCHES WITH A CHANCEL OR NAVE ADDED TO AN OLDER STRUCTURE. 1. ST. COLUMBA, Balivanich, Benbecula.

Occupying a swampy spot, formerly the bed of a lake, are remains of a chapel probably belonging to the monks of Iona. Externally 56 feet in length and 19 feet in width. ( Fig. 52. ) All the windows are flat-topped and narrow; one in east end, three in south wall, and one in north wall. East wall only is perfect. [98] Fig. 52. —St. Columba, Balivanich. Plan. Was built in a remote age. The mortar is washed out of the joints. The only door is at north end, with inclined jambs, and so low as to requ

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2. EILEAN MOR.

A small island lying off the Knapdale coast. “A little way up from the landing-place stands the half-roofless, though in other respects scarcely at all ruinated, shell of ‘Kilvicoharmaig, the Mother Church of Knapdale,’ surrounded by an open and nearly obliterated burying-ground. Its external plan ( Fig. 53 ) is a simple oblong, measuring 37 feet 5 inches in length and 20 feet in width. Internally the building is divided into chancel and nave, the division being a gabled wall open by a semi-circ

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3. ST. COLUMBA’S, Ey., Lewis.

A long narrow building of two compartments, divided by a thick wall, containing arched passage. Eastern compartment internally 62 feet in length by 17 feet in width; western one 23 feet by 16 feet 3 inches. Different parts erected at different times from character of masonry. In eastern or larger compartment, windows are mere flat-headed slits, flush outside, widely splayed inside; east one 4 feet 4 inches by 7½ inches; south one 3 feet 8 inches and only 3 inches wide. In western division masonr

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4. ST. COLUMBA, Kiels, Kintyre.

Long narrow building, with small round-headed windows and doorway in side walls only. Length outside 75 feet 3 inches; width only 18 feet 10 inches; unbonded juncture 29 feet from east end, shows that chancel has been extended to west; masonry of usual rude description; stones of added part are squared and like Norman work. Plain round-headed doorway on south-west, and two or three small round-headed single windows. [102]...

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5. KILCHOUSLAN, near Campbeltown, Kintyre.

Chapel, rather more than 58 feet in length, nearly entire; all apertures Fig. 56. —Kilchouslan. Plan. square-headed. North wall blank; seems to have been lengthened by about 20 feet; fissure at junction similar to that at Kiels. [103] [We give Plan and View ( Fig. 56 , 57 ) of this church, originally 36 feet 7 inches long by 17 feet wide internally. The and windows are square-headed and built with freestone, now much decayed; the remainder of the Fig. 57. —Kilchouslan. View from South-West. wall

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6. KILCHENZIE, near Campbeltown, Kintyre.

[We also give Plan and View of this structure ( Fig. 58 , 59 ). A simple oblong church, 40 Fig. 58. —Kilchenzie. Plan. feet 11 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide internally, with one round-headed window, 6 inches wide, cut out of a single stone in south wall. A chancel, 27 feet 4 inches long by 17 feet 3 inches wide, has been added, of which the junction is quite apparent. One small pointed window in east end of chancel.] Fig. 59. —Kilchenzie. View from South-East....

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1. ST. MARY’S, Lybster, Caithness.

A rudely constructed building ( Fig. 60 ) consisting of chancel and nave. Flat-headed doorway, 3 feet 5 inches high, with inclining jambs, in west end ( Fig. 61 ), and possibly another door in south wall. No Fig. 60. —St. Mary’s, Lybster. Plan. windows except, perhaps, one high up in east gable. Chancel entrance same as west doorway. [104] Fig. 61. —St. Mary’s, Lybster. View of Doorway in West End....

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2. CHURCH OF JOHN THE BAPTIST, South Bragair, Lewis.

Not much wasted; consisting of chancel and nave; respectively 12 feet 8 inches and 19 feet 10 inches long inside, with flat-headed windows—one east and one south in chancel, and one in west end of nave. Chancel arch and south-west doorway broken; former seems to have been pointed. [105]...

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3. ST. MICHAEL’S, Borve, Barra.

Consists of nave and chancel; respectively 23 feet and 7 feet 10 inches in length inside. Only ground plan left. [106] (This and St. John’s, Bragair, the only churches in Lewis with chancel and nave constructively separated.)...

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(D) CHURCHES WITH POINTED OR LATE FEATURES. 1. ST. CATAN’S, Gigha, off Kintyre.

Old church, oblong, 33 feet long and 15 feet 2 inches in width. One long lanciform window in east end ( Fig. 62 ); stone font. [107] Fig. 62. —St. Catan’s, Gigha. East End. In Islay numerous traces of chapels are found, of which the following are the best preserved; some have lancet windows, and the others, with square or round heads, do not appear to be very old....

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2. KILDALTON, Islay.

Church, 60 feet long. East end contains two long lanciform windows, recessed semi-circularly within—one in west gable and one in each side wall. In south wall a canopied piscina and effigy of mailed figure. [108]...

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3. KILNAUGHTON, Islay.

Church, internally 38 feet long; west end blank. Small narrow window in east gable. [109]...

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4. KILNEAVE, Islay.

Church, 30 feet long, and not very old. Two windows, short and wide—one in east elevation and one in south wall. Arches semi-circular, of thin stones. [110] ( Fig. 63. ) Fig. 63. —Kilneave, Islay....

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5. KILCHIERAN, Islay.

East end and fragment of south wall of chapel. No window, but two recesses in east wall inside, with ambry and projecting piscina. [111]...

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6. ST. NINIAN’S, Sanda.

An island off the east coast of the Mull of Cantyre. The church is an oblong, 32 feet 9 inches. ( Fig. 64. ) Walls pretty entire. Doorway Fig. 64. —St. Ninian’s, Sanda. Plan. plain, chamfered, and flat-headed, at north-west. Windows small and flat-headed. ( Fig. 65. ) Small circular piscina. Lying inside, bowl of font. [112] Fig. 65. —St. Ninian’s, Sanda. South-East Window....

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7. ST. COLUMBA’S ISLE, Lewis.

At the mouth of Loch Erisort is St. Columba’s Chapel, externally 35 feet 6 inches in length and 18 feet 7 inches in width. East elevation nearly entire; contains flat-headed window, 4 feet by 6 inches, and in west gable smaller one same shape. South side contains a narrow lanciform window, and broken doorway on left. North side nearly gone. [113]...

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8. PENNYGOWAN, Mull.

Chapel, 39 feet 9 inches long internally. Three narrow single-light windows, with heads slightly curved; doorway similar. East end blank. [114]...

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9. LAGGAN, Mull.

Chapel, 35 feet long internally. North side, long lanciform window and round-headed door; heads of one stone; east end of south side long, narrow round-headed window; west end, window with drip-stone; east end blank. Basin of octagonal font. [115]...

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10. INCHKENNETH, near Ulva.

Remains of church; seems to be of early first pointed date; simple oblong, 40 feet 8 inches long by 19 feet 8 inches wide, with small ruined sacristy on south-east. Flat buttresses at corner of east end, which contains two long lancet windows enormously splayed inside. Side walls have each one similar window, and broken doorway in north wall. Circular piscina. [116]...

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11. ST. MOLUAC, Raasay.

First pointed. Internally 46 feet in length. In west end two short narrow lancets, semi-arched inside, one in middle of wall, the other aloft in gable. In east end one similar. In south wall two windows and flat-headed doorway, and inside a large semi-recess in wall. [117]...

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12. KILLEAN, Kintyre.

Perhaps Mother-Church. Details more elaborate than usual, vaulted, and sacristy or chantry chapel at north-east. A south-west doorway, and another near east end of south wall, and apparently an unusually distinguished chancel. Narrow round-headed lights on both sides. East end a very long couplet, formerly separated by a buttress; tooth ornament round exterior openings; moulded label, string and cornice, and corner nook shaft. [118]...

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13. KILBRIDE, Knapdale.

Large, not much ruined. [119]...

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14. EORRAPIDH, Lewis.

Teampull Moluach. Simple oblong; internally 44 feet long by 17 feet 9 inches wide, with north-east sacristy and south-east chapel, both roofed with lean-to. ( Fig. 66. ) Doorway at south-west, semi-arched; Fig. 66. —Teampull Eorrapidh, Lewis. Plan. east window round head, rear arch pointed; west window smaller, round head with round rear arch. At top of east and of side walls two small square windows close together, and to west one large and round-headed of one stone. Windows in side buildings m

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15. OLRIG, Caithness.

Walls of old church apparently first pointed. [121]...

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16. KILCHIEVEN OR KILCOIVEN, Kintyre.

Simple oblong, a good deal demolished; 51 feet 8 inches long by 17 feet 8 inches wide internally. North-west pointed doorway; remains of two-light window in south wall, and hole in south wall for piscina. ( Fig. 67. ) Fig. 67. —Kilchieven Church. Plan. Egilsay, Interior of Choir. About forty years ago the ancient churches of Orkney and Shetland were minutely examined by Sir Henry Dryden, who then made measured plans and drawings of the buildings, showing their condition at that time. In 1870 Sir

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CHAPEL ON THE BROUGH OF DEERNESS.

The brough is on the east coast of Deerness, and measures on the top about 400 feet north and south by 240 feet east and west. It is separated from the mainland on the south-west by a narrow ravine or “geo,” which is almost wet at high water. ( Fig. 68. ) The brough is highest on the north, and at that part is about 90 or 100 feet high. ( Fig. 69. ) The coast hereabouts is steep and rocky. The use of the word brough for a detached rock, when no fort is placed on it, is not unfrequent. The chapel

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CHAPEL ON THE NORTH SHORE OF HEAD OF HOLLAND.

This is situated within a few yards of the shore, and not many feet above water level. It is only a heap of ruins, but the measures are just ascertainable. It is a parallelogram, measuring 37 feet east and west by Fig. 72. —Chapel near Shore of Head of Holland. Plan. 15 feet 4 inches north and south inside. The north and south walls are 2 feet 6 inches thick, and east and west ends 3 feet 3 inches, and are of the red sandstone of the locality. There was a door in the south wall. Planned in 1870.

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HALCRO CHAPEL, South Ronaldshay.

This is now wholly destroyed, and even the foundations taken out, but the measures were obtained by Mr. G. Petrie so soon after the removal of the latter that the thickness of the walls could be accurately determined. It was a parallelogram, 21 feet by 14 feet inside. The walls were 2 feet 6 inches thick. The place of the doorway was not ascertained. Planned in 1870. ( Fig. 73. ) Fig. 73. —Halcro Chapel, in South Parish, Ronaldshay. Plan. ST. TREDWELL’S CHAPEL, Papa Westray . This chapel is situ

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CHURCH AT SWENDRO, Rousay.

This is in a graveyard, close to the west shore of Rousay, about a mile north of Westness. It consists of a long parallelogram, and, but for a stoup near the door, and apparently an ambry near the east end, might be taken for a post-Reformation building. It has been used till within memory. It stands about east and west. ( Fig. 76. ) It is 52 feet 11 Fig. 76. —Chapel near Westness, Rousay. Plan and Elevation. inches east and west by 14 feet 5 inches north and south inside; and the walls are 2 fe

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ST. OLA, Kirkwall.

This church stands in Bridge Street Lane, and is now a carpenter’s shop and warehouse, the property of Mrs. John Reid. It formerly was enclosed in “a close” or court, and was once converted into a “poorhouse,” from which the close was called “Poorhouse Close.” It has been so much mutilated in its several conversions that little can be stated of its original style and arrangement. It stands about west by south and east by north. It consists of one parallelogram, 35 feet by 18 feet inside. ( Fig.

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Note by Geo. Petrie, Kirkwall, Corr. Mem. Soc. Antiq. Scot.

According to Jo. Ben, whose description of Orkney is dated in 1529, St. Ola’s Church was reduced to ashes by the English, probably during one of their many raids on the islands about that time. One of the raids was on 13th August 1502. As apparently corroborative of Sir Henry Dryden’s conjecture, that St. Ola’s Church was the parish church before the cathedral was so styled, an old charter in my possession proves that not only was the church known as St. Ola’s Kirk, but it had “St. Olaf’s Kirkya

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THE FOLLOWING CHURCHES ARE OF THE TYPE CONTAINING CHANCEL AND NAVE. CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF WYRE.

This stands on a flat piece of ground about the middle of the island, in a walled burial-ground, still used. The chapel has no roof, and is much filled up with rubbish. Large parts of the south wall have tumbled, as well as smaller portions of other walls. ( Fig. 80. ) It is built of grey whinstone, without any freestone dressings. The stones average about 1 foot 6 inches long by about 5 inches thick. It Fig. 80. —Church, Wyre, Orkney. From South-West. consists of chancel and nave, with a door a

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CHURCH ON THE ISLAND OF ENHALLOW.

This church, till lately, was unknown for many years, having been converted long ago into a cottage. On the small island Enhallow (the Holy Island), on the south-west slope of it, and about 200 yards from the shore, is a cluster of four cottages, in which four families lived. In 18—fever broke out among them, and the owner, Mr. Balfour, took the whole Fig. 83. —Church, Enhallow, Orkney. Plan. off the island, and pulled the roofs off the cottages. In this clearance the church was discovered. Havi

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CHAPEL AT LINTON, in Shapinsay.

This chapel is near the shore at the south-east part of the island. It consists of nave and chancel, and stands nearly exactly east and west. ( Fig. 90. ) The extreme length is 35 feet 9 inches, and the width 19 feet Fig. 90. —Linton Chapel. Plan and Elevations. 5 inches. About 7 feet in height of the east end of the nave, including the arch into the chancel ( Fig. 91 ), remains; but of the rest only about 2 feet and 3 feet remain. It is built of whinstone without any freestone dressings. The na

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CHAPEL IN WESTRAY.

This is in the “West Graveyard,” which is still used, though the chapel has been for many years a ruin. It consists of nave and chancel, and is built of the schist of the locality. It stands east and west, within two degrees. ( Fig. 93. ) Fig. 93. —Chapel in Westray. Plan and South Elevations. The nave originally measured 19 feet east and west by 13 feet 4 inches north and south inside, but was elongated long subsequently to its erection, so that latterly it was 46 feet 7 inches by 13 feet 4 inc

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CHURCH ON EGILSEY.

The island on which this church stands is about three miles north and south and one mile east and west. The church is on the west side of it near the Howa Sound, which separates Egilsey from Rousay, and is a conspicuous object from all sides, as the island has no prominent points, and the church is on the highest ground. The flood tide runs from north-west to south-east. There is a landing-place at the south point and on west side, but not at north point. The name Egilsey or Egilshay is derived

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CHURCH ON BROUGH OF BIRSAY.

The brough contains about 40 acres, and is separated on the east from the mainland by a rocky channel, which is about 150 yards wide, and dry at low water. The surface of the brough slopes down from a high cliff on the west to a cliff of about 20 feet high on the east. The chapel is about 50 yards from the shore at the point nearest to the mainland. ( Fig. 105. ) It is enclosed in a yard about 33 yards east and west, by 27 yards north and south, of which the wall is destroyed. At the edge of the

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CHURCH AT ORPHIR, Orkney.

This highly interesting fragment stands near the east end of the parish church, and probably the reason why it has not obtained that notice which it deserves is, that the larger and most interesting part of it was destroyed before 1758, to build or enlarge the present parish church. It consisted originally of a circular nave, and apsidal chancel added to its east part. ( Fig. 111. ) The chancel remains, but only 9 feet on each side of it of the circular nave. Fortunately we have a short record o

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CHAPEL OF NOSS, Bressay.

This ruin is near the sound which separates Noss from Bressay, on an elevation of about 20 feet or 30 feet above the water. The dedication is unknown. It consisted of a nave and chancel ( Fig. 114 ), of which only a fragment Fig. 114. —Chapel of Noss. Plan. of the north wall of the chancel remains, about 4 feet or 5 feet high. The nave was about 18 feet 6 inches by 14 feet, and the chancel about 12 feet east and west, by 10 feet north and south, as shown by the ridge in the turf. Nothing certain

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KIRKABY, Westing, Unst.

This is in the west part of the island, in a walled churchyard, about 80 feet north and south, and 60 feet east and west. By remains outside the south-east part of the wall, it is evident that the church has been Fig. 115. —Kirkaby, Westing. Plan. built on the ruins of a brough or other ancient building. The dedication is unknown. The church consisted of a nave ( Fig. 115 ) about 13 feet 9 inches by 12 feet, and a chancel about 10 feet by 7 feet inside. The walls were about 2 feet 9 inches thick

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MEAL COLVIDALE, Unst.

This is in the south-east part of the island, in a yard about 112 feet east and west by 85 feet north and south. ( Fig. 116. ) The dedication is unknown. The nave is about 12 feet by 11 feet inside; the chancel 7 feet 9 inches by 7 feet 6 inches inside; and the walls 3 feet thick. Fig. 116. —Meal Colvidale. Plan. About 2 feet in height of the north wall of the nave, and about the same of the north wall of the chancel, and a fragment of the interior face of the south wall of the chancel remain. T

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ST. JOHN’S KIRK, Norwick, Unst.

This is in the north-east part of the island, on the south side of a bay. It is dedicated to St. John. It consists of nave ( Fig. 117 ), about 26 feet 6 inches and 13 feet 6 inches inside, and chancel about 16 feet by 8 feet 8 inches. The walls are 2 feet 4 inches thick. Only about 2 feet in height of the central portion remains, that is about 12 feet 6 inches of the east part of the nave, and about 10 feet of the west part of the chancel. The chancel arch was equal in width to the chancel. The

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CHURCH AT UYA.

The island of Uya, or Uyea, is not more than 2½ miles by 1 mile across. It lies to the west of Unst. The ruin is near the east shore. The dedication is unknown. Fig. 118. —Church at Uya. Plan, South Elevation, &amp;c. It consists of a nave and a building like a chancel to the west of the nave ( Fig. 118 ), and lies true east and west. About 7 feet 6 inches high on an average of the side walls remain. The material is the grey whinstone of the island, and the blocks from 4 feet by 1 foot by 1

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KIRK OF NESS, North Yell.

This church is at the north-east angle of Yell, near the base of the ness bounding Cullavoe. The land is flat hereabouts, and near the sea level. It is the most complete of the old churches of Shetland, and is said to have been dedicated to Olave or Olaf, the great warrior saint of the North. It is enclosed in a walled yard about 110 feet by 100 feet. ( Fig. 120. ) It consists of nave and chancel, with bell-cot on the west gable, and lies nearly true east and west. The roof is gone, but the chur

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CHURCH AT CULBINSBROUGH, Bressay.

This ruin is on the north-east coast of Bressay, on a small low promontory. It is enclosed in a “garth” or churchyard, the wall of which is ruinous, and which appears not to have been used for many years. Fig. 127. —Church at Culbinsbrough. Plan. The dedication is not known. It originally consisted of a nave, north and south transepts, and chancel, and lies about west by north and east by south. ( Fig. 127. ) There remain now only the lower portion of the north transept, lower portions of the ch

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GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS.

There is no cross church in Orkney, and only one in Shetland. In Ireland there is no circular, octagon, or cross church, except, of course, the cathedrals and some monastic churches. There is no aisle in Orkney or Shetland. There are no plinths or basements to any of these churches. The doors are chiefly in the west ends. Both square and round heads occur. Several have no rebates. (See Birsay.) St. Ola, Deerness, and perhaps Uya have no chancels, but all the rest have decided chancels. There is

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MONUMENTS.

The grave stones found in connection with these churches are of four kinds. 1. Keel-shaped slabs placed horizontally on graves, as at Sandwick in Unst, sketched by Mr. Irvine. 2. Upright stones nearly rectangular, with crosses engraved on them, as at Sandwick, etched by Mr. Irvine, and at Norwick and some other places. This class includes the elaborate monument from Culbinsbrough. 3. The same shaped stones, without any ornamentation, found at many of the old burial-grounds. 4. Upright stones cut

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PROPORTIONS.

The designs for churches in the ages of architecture were not made at random. Doubtless there existed certain rules of proportion; but doubtless they varied with times, places, and persons. Various attempts have been made in modern times to discover these rules, and in some instances with apparent success. It unfortunately happens that we have not often an intact ground plan, and if the original plan was simple, the additions render it complex. In many cases these additions were made without any

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DATES.

As to the dates of these buildings we have but little to guide us. Only fragments of the buildings are left, and those of the plainest description. Scotch architecture has some mystifying peculiarities. Dates have been suggested from architectural and historical evidence for Orphir, Birsay, and Egilsey. Orphir, 1090-1160; Birsay, 1100; Egilsey, 1000. Wyre has been assigned to the twelfth or thirteenth, the Ness to the fourteenth, and St. Ola to the sixteenth century. It may be fairly observed th

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CHAPEL AT LYBSTER, Parish of Reay, Caithness.

This is not the Lybster on the east coast. This chapel ( Fig. 129 ) was stated, in 1726, to be dedicated to St. Peter. It is described and illustrated by Muir in his Ecclesiastical Sketch of Caithness and Orkney , 1861. He states that it was dedicated to St. Mary. [135] It consists of nave and chancel, both unroofed. ( Fig. 130. ) Muir, in his plan, places the chancel to the north of the nave, but it is in the usual position. The nave is 17 feet 10 inches east and west, by 10 feet 11 inches nort

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CHAPEL, EFFIGY, AND CROSS ON INCH KENNETH, Mull, Argyleshire.

Inch Kenneth is about half a mile across at the mouth of Loch na Keal, on the west side of Mull. The chapel ( Fig. 132 ) adjoins the burial-ground, which is on the south-east part of the island, and at 50 or 60 feet above the water. Fig. 132. —Chapel on Inch Kenneth. View from North-East. The ground falls sharply from the north-east to the south-west. The burial-ground is on the west of the chapel, and on higher ground. There is an enclosed burial-place adjoining the south side of the chapel for

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Note by Sir Henry Dryden.

All the plans and sections are much reduced from the originals; therefore, the statements of the scales are not true, but the scales given are correct, having been reduced with the plans. Of the original drawings, some general plans are to the scale of ½ an inch to 40 feet, and ½ an inch to 10 feet. All the chapels are to the scale of ⅜ of an inch to 2 feet, doors and windows ⅜ to 6 inches, and mouldings ⅜ to 3 inches. The elevations in the originals are tinted with sepia, and have no masonry in

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ABERNETHY ROUND TOWER, Perthshire.

This remarkable edifice stands on the south-west side of the Churchyard of Abernethy, a small town situated at some distance from the south side of the Tay, and about three miles west from Newburgh. There can be no doubt that this peculiar form of round tower owes its existence to the presence of the Irish clergy, who returned to Scotland in the ninth century. [137] Abernethy was distinguished as an ecclesiastical site at a very early date, a church having been founded here in the sixth century

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RESTENNET PRIORY, Forfarshire.

The remaining towers of the group above enumerated are all square on plan, and certain of them are connected with churches, and form a part of them. In these respects, therefore, they differ considerably from the towers of Abernethy and Brechin. They were all probably built during the twelfth century. Possibly Restennet is an exception. It is the only one of the square towers which has very marked features of a pre-Norman character. The outside dimensions of the Tower of Restennet ( Fig. 145 ) a

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ST. REGULUS’, OR ST. RULE’S, St. Andrews, Fifeshire.

This remarkable edifice stands in the ancient churchyard at a distance of fully 100 feet south-east from the Cathedral of St. Andrews ( q.v. ) St. Regulus’ was, doubtless, the Cathedral Church of St. Andrews before the edifice, afterwards constructed as the Cathedral, and now ruinous, existed. The early occupation of the site of St. Andrews for religious purposes is referred to in the Introduction. [142] Cellach was the first Bishop of St. Andrews, about the beginning of the tenth century. He wa

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MARKINCH TOWER, Fifeshire.

The Church and Churchyard of Markinch stand on the top of a small hill, round the base of which lie the houses of the town. The church and its Norman tower are thus conspicuous objects as seen from the railway in approaching from Kirkcaldy, which is about seven miles distant to the southward. The inch, or island, is believed to have derived its name from having been formerly surrounded by a marsh. Fig. 159. —Markinch Church Tower. Plans and Details. A church was consecrated here in 1243, and ded

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MUTHILL CHURCH, Perthshire.

The parish of Muthill lies about three miles south of Crieff. The ancient church, with its venerable tower, remained entire and in use as the parish church till about the year 1818, when, unfortunately, it was abandoned for a new building erected about that time. We are enabled to give a view [149] of the old church ( Fig. 162 ), made by John Claude Nattes about the year 1799, from which it will be seen how eminently picturesque the old structure was, and how deplorable is the ruin which has ove

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ST. SERF’S, DUNNING,[151] Perthshire.

The village of Dunning is situated in Lower Strathearn, about 1¾ mile south-east of the railway station of the same name. The following historical facts connected with the church and district are from a scarce “History of Dunning,” by the late Rev. John Wilson, minister of the parish. “Dunning,” Mr. Wilson says, “when first heard of in authentic history, formed part of the ancient Stewartry or Earldom of Strathearn, and dates back to a remote antiquity,” the Earls or Courts Palatine of Strathear

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CRUGGLETON CHURCH, Wigtonshire.

The parish of Cruggleton now forms part of the parish of Sorbie, with which it was united in the seventeenth century. The old church of Cruggleton is situated near the coast about three miles from Garleston, Fig. 179. —Cruggleton Church. Chancel Arch, from West. and about the same distance from Whithorn, to the priory at which it belonged before the Reformation. The church of Cruggleton, being abandoned, fell into decay. The view ( Fig. 179 ), for which we have to thank Mr. Galloway, shows its c

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MONYMUSK CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

A few remains of the ancient church of Monymusk still survive and are incorporated with the modern church now erected on the old site. The village is situated in the valley of the Don, about one mile from the station of the branch railway to Alford, and is about seven miles up the valley from Kintore Junction. Monymusk is a place of great antiquity, being one of the oldest seats of the Culdees in the North of Scotland. A church is said to have been founded here by Malcolm Canmore, who Fig. 183.

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ST. BRANDON’S, Birnie, Morayshire.

Birnie is believed to have been the original seat of the Bishop of Moray before he migrated, in the first place, to Kineddar, then to Spynie, and finally to Elgin. Simeon, the fourth Bishop, was buried here in 1184. The church is situated about three miles south from Elgin, near the river Lossie, and the road to it from Elgin passes through a pleasant, well cultivated country, diversified with numerous undulations and woods. Fig. 186. —Birnie Church. Plan. The church, which is dedicated to St. B

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ST. ORAN’S CHAPEL, Iona, Argyllshire.

St. Oran’s Chapel is the name given to a small edifice which stands in the ancient burial-ground situated a short distance south-west from the cathedral. The name of the churchyard is “Relig Oran,” being so called from Oran, one of St. Columba’s companions, who was probably the first of his followers who died on the island. As stated in the Introduction, [153] this chapel is supposed by Dr. Reeves to have been built by Queen Margaret about 1074. The chapel ( Fig. 188 ) is a plain oblong, 30 feet

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THE CHAPEL IN EDINBURGH CASTLE, KNOWN AS “ST. MARGARET’S CHAPEL.”

When treating of Edinburgh Castle in the Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland , [154] this chapel was briefly described and illustrated; but it has been thought of sufficient importance to be included in this volume, with additional illustrations [155] and descriptive matter. Fig. 192. —St. Margaret’s Chapel, Edinburgh Castle. Plan and Sections. The exterior walls of the chapel ( Fig. 192 ) form an oblong, measuring 31 feet 7 inches from east to west, by 16 feet in width at the east

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DUNFERMLINE ABBEY, Fifeshire.

Situated north of the Forth, or “Scots Water,” in the heart of the old Pictish kingdom, Dunfermline was from an early period occupied as a secure and pleasant site by the kings of Scotland. Here Malcolm Canmore had his tower (of which a few crumbling remains still survive), and here he entertained the royal fugitives from England, and married the Princess Margaret, one of these refugees, in 1070. The King and Queen ended their lives in 1093, within a few days of each other—the first at the siege

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ST. MAGNUS’ CATHEDRAL, Kirkwall, Orkney.

In approaching Kirkwall from the sea, the chief object which meets the view is the great mass of the cathedral. The town gradually comes into sight, with its harbour and quays; but attention is irresistibly fixed on the huge church, which overtops everything else. When the quaint old streets, with the gables of the houses facing the narrow roadway, are traversed, and the open space round the cathedral is reached, the visitor’s admiration of the structure is by no means diminished. He enters by o

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ST. BLANE’S CHURCH, Bute.

This interesting ruin stands in a remote valley near the south end of the island of Bute, being about three miles south from the parish church of Kingarth. The site is at a considerable elevation, and commands a fine view of the hills of Arran to the south. A lofty and precipitous wooded hill shelters the valley from the northwards. The building stands on a slightly elevated platform, enclosed with a retaining wall. This enclosure forms an upper churchyard, while another enclosure below it forms

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DALMENY CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

This edifice is the completest of our Norman parish churches, consisting ( Fig. 251 ) of a chancel with eastern apse and a nave or main building, separated from the chancel by an elaborate chancel arch. As usual in parish churches of this period, there are no aisles. Although the above divisions are complete, the church has not entirely escaped alterations and additions. On the north side projecting wings have been added, which contain a gallery and a north porch, and staircase leading to the ga

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LEUCHARS CHURCH, Fifeshire.

Situated four and a half miles from St. Andrews, and one mile from Leuchars Railway Junction, this church, like that of Dalmeny, forms one of the best-preserved examples of our parish churches of the Norman period. Though not complete, like Dalmeny, the choir and apse of Leuchars, which alone remain, are even more richly decorated with the Fig. 263. —Leuchars Church. Plan. characteristic ornaments of the style than the former. As usual, the church is without aisles. It is scarcely possible to as

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BUNKLE CHURCH, Berwickshire.

There exist in Berwickshire the remains of a number of Norman churches which, unfortunately, are very fragmentary. This is the more to be regretted, as the portions still remaining of some of them show that they must have been equal, if not superior, in richness of detail to most of the better preserved specimens in other parts of the country. The fragments at Edrom and Legerwood are of the finest Norman architecture, while the extreme simplicity of the work at Bunkle seems to indicate that it i

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EDROM CHURCH, Berwickshire.

Of the ancient parish church of Edrom, situated about one mile from Edrom Railway Station, there still survives a Norman doorway of beautiful workmanship. ( Fig. 269. ) [175] It has been preserved by being made the entrance to a burial vault at the west end of the church. This doorway ( Fig. 270 ) is one of the finest of the style in Scotland, and is of considerable size, being 11 feet high and 4 feet 8 inches wide. It has two shafts (one of them a nook shaft) in each jamb, and the ashlar work o

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LEGERWOOD, Berwickshire.

Fig. 276. —Legerwood Church. Window. Legerwood stands in the hilly region, about four miles north-east from Earlston Station. The parish church is old, and has been often repaired. Attached to it, but entirely cut off by a wall, are the roofless Fig. 275. —Legerwood Church. Plan. ruins of the original Norman chancel ( Fig. 275 ), which is complete, and measures internally 17 feet 4 inches square. It is fairly preserved, and contains some good Norman work. The chancel arch is entire, but is partl

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CHIRNSIDE CHURCH, Berwickshire.

Another fragment of Norman work survives at Chirnside in the doorway of the ruined church, situated about one mile from Chirnside Fig. 279. —Chirnside Church. Doorway. Railway Station. The village stands high, and commands an extensive view. The church has been much restored, but the ancient Norman walls in great measure remain. Its size can, therefore, be determined, being 78 feet in length by 23 feet ½ inch in width. The only architectural feature remaining is the doorway on the south side. (

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ST. HELEN’S CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The ruins of this church stand in a lonely and lofty situation overlooking the sea, about three miles eastward from Cockburnspath. The fabric is now in a greater state of dilapidation than is shown by the annexed views, which are copied from a sketch by James Drummond, R.S.A., engraved in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland . [176] It is accompanied by a description and plan by Mr. Thomas S. Muir, from which it would appear that about the middle of this century the east gab

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TYNNINGHAME CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

The few relics which survive of this ancient monastery lie buried in a thick clump of trees, which stands between the modern mansion of Tynninghame and the river Tyne, about three miles north-east from East Linton. This was one of the churches dedicated to St. Baldred, of which there were several on the East Coast. That Saint seems to have selected the Bass Rock as his place of abode, whence his fame spread through the adjoining regions. He is believed to have come from the establishment of the

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STOBO CHURCH, Peeblesshire.

This church is situated in the valley of the Tweed, six and a half miles west from Peebles, and within one mile of Stobo Railway Station. It is Fig. 287. —Stobo Church. Plan. Fig. 288. —Stobo Church. View from South-East. a Norman structure, to which some alterations and additions have been made in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The building is still used as the parish church. The roof and interior fittings are modern, as are also the skews and gabled skew putts, of which latter there

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DUDDINGSTON CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

This ancient Norman edifice has formed the place of worship for the locality since the twelfth century, and is still used as the parish church. It is picturesquely situated on the north side of Duddingston Loch, Fig. 291. —Duddingston Church. Plan. immediately under the south side of Arthur’s Seat, and within a mile of Edinburgh. Fig. 292. —Duddingston Church. From South-East. The structure has undergone many alterations during the six centuries of its existence, but still retains its original N

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ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, Gullane, Haddingtonshire.

The village of Gullane lies in the parish of Dirleton, about four miles north-west from Drem Station, and half-a-mile from the sea. The old church of St. Andrew is now a roofless ruin, thickly clad with ivy, and standing in the middle of the ancient churchyard. The church was bestowed early in the thirteenth century on Dryburgh Abbey by Sir William de Vaux, and in 1446 it was erected into a collegiate institution by Sir Walter de Haliburton. Both these knights were the proprietors of the Castle

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UPHALL CHURCH, AND ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH, Strathbroc, Linlithgowshire.

The Church of Uphall is a Norman structure throughout, and consists of nave, chancel, and a western tower. It has been subjected to various Fig. 302. —Uphall Church. Plan. alterations and extensions, but the original plan is still perfectly clear, and is shown by Fig. 302, which ignores the changes, except the addition of the south aisle or wing. The building has no side aisles. The nave measures about 35 feet long by 15 feet wide, and the Fig. 303. —Uphall Church. Doorway. chancel 30 feet 6 inc

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ABERCORN, Linlithgowshire.

The ancient church of Æbbercurnig, or Abercorn, lies in a sheltered spot amidst the fine woods surrounding the grounds of Hopetoun House, about three miles west from Queensferry. Fig. 308. —Abercorn Church. South Doorway. It is believed that when the Northumbrian kingdom was extended to the Forth in the seventh century, a church was founded here in 675, under St. Wilfrid, as a central point from which to superintend the northern part of his diocese. Under Trumuini, this church became the see of

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KELSO ABBEY, Roxburghshire.

In 1113, David, Earl of Huntingdon, introduced thirteen Reformed Benedictine monks from Tiron, in France (hence called Tironenses), and settled them at Selkirk, near his castle there. But the place was not found suitable, and in 1128, after David had become king, the monks, with the consent of the Bishop of Glasgow, were removed to Kelso, where they were established near the royal castle of Roxburgh. The foundation of the new abbey was laid in 1128, and the church was dedicated to the blessed Vi

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ST. MARTIN’S CHURCH, Haddington.

This ruined structure stands on a slightly-elevated site at the east end of the Nungate, a suburb of the town of Haddington, on the right bank of the Tyne. The Nungate is joined to the town by an ancient bridge of three wide arches and two smaller ones. St. Martin’s belonged to the Abbey or Nunnery of Haddington, which was situated about one mile to the east of the town. The nunnery was founded in 1178 by Ada, Countess of Northumberland, widow of Prince Henry (son of David I. ), and mother of Ma

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KIRKLISTON CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

Some portions of the old Church of Kirkliston, situated about seven miles west of Edinburgh, including the tower and two ancient doorways, stand in the churchyard, on the high north-west bank of the Almond Water, in the village of Kirkliston. The main body Fig. 329. —Kirkliston Church. Plan. of the church, so far as can now be ascertained, was an oblong structure ( Fig. 329 ) about 60 feet in length by 26 feet in width externally, but part of the north wall has been removed, so as to allow the c

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ST. PETER’S CHURCH,[184] PETERHEAD, Aberdeenshire.

The remains of the Church of St. Peter, Peterhead ( Fig. 335 ), consist of the side walls of the chancel and the entire chancel arch, with a square tower projecting outwards in the centre of the west wall of the nave. No other portion of the nave remains. The tower and west wall are late, but the chancel is of the Norman period. The arch is quite plain, and is supported on square jambs having Norman cushion caps. There is a supposed reference to the church in the Book of Deer, in 1132, concernin

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ST. MARY’S CHURCH,[186] RUTHERGLEN, Lanarkshire.

Only the merest fragment of this ancient church now remains, consisting of the east wall ( Fig. 336 ), with an eastern tower attached to it. The masonry of the east wall shows it to be of the Norman period. There has been no opening of any kind in this wall. The returns of the chancel walls are only indicated on the east wall by the slightest traces in the jointing, so completely have they been cut away. The eastern tower ( Fig. 337 ) is quite a unique feature in Scotland. It had no connection w

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LAMINGTON CHURCH, Lanarkshire.

The Norman doorway of this ancient church is still preserved. The church has been altered and the doorway built up; but, doubtless, some of the old walls still exist. The church and village were founded by one Lambin, in the twelfth century. The doorway ( Fig. 339 ) is in the north wall of the church. It Fig. 339. —Lamington Church. North Doorway. is an elaborate example to find in this remote and quiet pastoral district. The arch mouldings and ornaments are well preserved, but, unfortunately, t

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ST. BOSWELLS CHURCH, Roxburghshire.

The Church of St. Boswells stands near the right bank of the Tweed, at a point about half-way between the village of Lessudden and Maxton Railway Station. The village of St. Boswells is stated to have formerly stood near the church, but it has gradually and entirely disappeared, and the nearest village to the church is now Lessudden, which is fully a mile off. The situation is very fine, and the views of the Tweed, with its wooded banks, in the vicinity are very beautiful. Fig. 340. —St. Boswell

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SMAILHOLM CHURCH, Roxburghshire.

As in Berwickshire, so in Roxburghshire, a large number of Norman churches were erected during the Norman period. We have not attempted to compile a list of these, as in most cases almost no trace of them now remains, or so little that it can only be detected by an antiquarian. There is, for example, the Church of Hassendean, of which Cardonell gives a view of the chancel arch, granted by David I. to the Bishop of Glasgow. This, judging from Cardonell’s view, must have been a rich and important

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LINTON CHURCH, Roxburghshire.

This church stands about six miles south from Kelso, and one mile and a-half from Morebattle. It occupies part of a sandy mound on which, at one time, there also stood the Castle of Linton. There was a church Fig. 342. —Linton Church. Tympanum in Porch. here at an early date, records of Linton Church being found as far back as 1127. It was then presented to the Monks of Kelso by Sir Richard Cumin for the salvation of the soul of Prince Henry, eldest son of David I. The lands of Linton soon after

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DUNS CHURCH, Berwickshire.

Not a stone of this church now remains. The chancel existed till the year 1874 as a burial vault, when the minister of the parish, “under the pretext of improving the churchyard,” [187] had it removed. The greater Fig. 345. —Duns Church. Plan. part of the church was taken down in 1790, when a new church was built on its site. We are enabled by the kindness of Mr. Ferguson, Duns, to give a copy of an old plan which appears in his work on the Churches of Berwickshire, and to the same source we are

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ST. LAWRENCE CHURCH, LUNDIE, Forfarshire.

In the course of some recent operations on this church under the superintendence of Mr. T. S. Robertson, architect, Dundee, it was discovered that it had been a Norman structure. Of the original building not much now remains, except the ashlar walls and a narrow window with a wide internal splay and an outside check for a shutter. This window is situated near the east end of the north wall. The apse appears to have been taken down, in 1786, during some alterations, and the chancel arch, indicate

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KIRKMAIDEN CHURCH, Wigtonshire.

The parish of Kirkmaiden has long been incorporated with that of Glasserton. Formerly Kirkmaiden formed the port of Whithorn, and its roofless church still stands close to the burial-ground near the sea-shore. It consists ( Fig. 348 ) of a nave, 37 feet 6 inches long by 18 feet wide internally, and the walls are 4 feet in thickness. They are little reduced from their original height, and the west gable is also little diminished. Fig. 348. —Kirkmaiden Church. Plan. There are only three openings i

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HERDMANSTON FONT, Haddingtonshire.

This is one of the few minor relics of the Norman period which have descended to our time. It stands in the burial vault of the Sinclairs of Herdmanston, adjoining the mansion house of that name, about five miles west from Haddington. The font is of yellow freestone, in one piece, and although somewhat worn and battered in part, is still in a good state of preservation. The base is partly damaged, and the surface of the top is somewhat broken away towards the front ( Fig. 349 ), so that it measu

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DUNDRENNAN ABBEY, Kirkcudbrightshire.

The greater part of this very interesting structure has been demolished, but what remains is so fine as to make one regret all the more the hard usage the demolished portions have met with. The abbey stood in a small, but deep, valley on a few acres of comparatively level ground lying on the west side of a little stream called the Abbey Burn, about a mile and a-half from the sea. The edifice is concealed in this remote and buried situation, and is with difficulty discovered after traversing a hi

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JEDBURGH ABBEY, Roxburghshire.

The town of Jedburgh occupies a site about ten miles south from Kelso, in the narrow valley of the river Jed, a tributary of the Teviot. The main street rises gradually on the west side of the valley till a wider point is reached, on which stood the monastery, above a bend of the river. On a still higher point, at a short distance south of the abbey, stood the Castle of Jedburgh, the subject of constant contention in Border warfare. The position of the abbey on the height above the river as seen

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KINLOSS ABBEY, Morayshire.

This was one of the monastic establishments founded in Moray by David I. in order to extend the benefits of civilisation to the remoter regions under his sway. [191] The story told with reference to this foundation is similar to the legend regarding Holyrood. The king had lost his way in the wood while hunting, and was guided by a deer to an open place, where, as was afterwards revealed to him by the Virgin, he was to found a church in her honour. The abbey was founded in 1150, and colonised by

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THE NUNNERY, Iona.

When Reginald, Lord of the Isles, in 1203, introduced Benedictine monks into the Monastery of Iona, a convent for Benedictine nuns was founded in the island, of which Beatrice, sister of Reginald, was the first abbess. The deed of confirmation of the nunnery still exists at the Vatican, dated 1203. The ruins of the building, which apparently was erected soon after that time, still survive. ( Fig. 381. ) They consist of a quadrangle about 68 feet square, having the church on the north side; found

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ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH, Aberdeen.

This church, said to be the largest mediæval parish church in Scotland, is still preserved and used as the principal church of Aberdeen; but only two portions of the ancient work remain—viz., the transepts and the crypt at the east end, below the choir. The nave was rebuilt about the middle of last century by Gibbs, the well-known architect of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields Church, London, and the Radcliffe Library, Oxford. It is, of course, in the Renaissance style of the time, and the interior is

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COLDINGHAM PRIORY, Berwickshire.

The picturesque village of Coldingham, with the remains of its ancient priory, lies in a small valley about 3½ miles eastward from Reston Railway Station, and within a mile of the sea. The great precipice of St. Abb’s Head, overlooking the German Ocean, is only a few miles off. It is believed that Ebba, daughter of the Northumbrian King Ethelfrid, and sister of King Oswy, in the bright days of that kingdom, about the middle of the seventh century, founded the monastery of Urbs Coludi , or Coldin

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DRYBURGH ABBEY, Berwickshire.

Situated on the north bank of the Tweed (and, consequently, in Berwickshire), this once important abbey belonged to the series of monastic establishments founded in the twelfth century in the valley of the Tweed. It occupies a beautiful position amongst fine woods on an elevated peninsula, surrounded on three sides by a loop of the river Tweed, about five miles below Melrose. It is said that a religious establishment existed here under the presidency of St. Modan, in the eighth century, but the

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AIRTH CHURCH.[197]

This ruined church adjoins the old Castle of Airth, which lies half a mile from the Forth and eight miles south-east of Stirling. The church is in part a building of considerable antiquity, dating from the transition period about the end of the twelfth or the beginning of the thirteenth century, but it has undergone many alterations, and only a small part of the early structure remains. The building as it now stands ( Fig. 423 ) consists of a Fig. 423. —Airth Church. Plan. nave and chancel, havi

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LASSWADE CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

Lasswade is a village on the south bank of the river Esk, about six miles south from Edinburgh. The old Parish Church stood, till 1866, in the ancient churchyard, on a height above the south side of the river. “It became a mensal church of the Bishopric of St. Andrews in the twelfth century, forming a prebend of St. Salvator’s Church; but was annexed to the Collegiate Church of Restalrig, in the reign of King James III. ” [199] Fig. 433. —Lasswade Church. Plan. The old structure having become un

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BATHGATE CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

About one mile east from the town of Bathgate stands the old ruined church, surrounded by an ancient burial-ground. It is a long, narrow, Fig. 437. —Bathgate Church. Plan. ivy-covered building ( Fig. 437 ), measuring internally about 91 feet 2 inches from east to west by 19 feet 5 inches from north to south, with walls from 3 to 4 feet in thickness. The doorway, which was probably round arched, is almost the only feature of its architecture left. The opening is unusually wide, showing 7 feet of

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PREFACE.

As this Volume contains drawings and descriptions of the examples of the First Pointed and Middle Pointed Periods in Scotland, and, therefore, illustrates the finest of our mediæval edifices, it may be convenient at this stage to consider the position these buildings occupy in relation to the general system of Gothic architecture in other countries. There can scarcely be any question as to the Gothic style having been imported into, and not being native to, this country. We have already seen tha

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FIRST POINTED PERIOD.

In the previous volume those styles of architecture in Scotland were dealt with which are directly derived from the earlier styles of Celtic and Roman or Romanesque art, and it was shown, in the examples of the Transition style, that the old forms were passing away and new forms were being introduced. We have now reached that point in the history of mediæval architecture when it took an entirely new and original development. It has already been pointed out [6] that this new departure sprung from

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MIDDLE POINTED OR DECORATED PERIOD.

Attention has been specially directed in the Introduction [126] to the fact that while, during the Norman and first pointed periods, a strong resemblance is observable between the architecture of England and Scotland, after the first pointed period there is a break in the continuity of the architecture of the two countries. Towards the end of the thirteenth century, owing to the political events which then took place, architecture in Scotland came to a standstill, and was not generally resumed t

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PREFACE.

In issuing the concluding Volume of this work, we take the opportunity to notice some points in the previous portions which have given rise to discussion. In Vol. I. p. 297 we express disagreement with Mr. W. Galloway’s opinion regarding the age of the chancel walls of St. Blane’s, Bute. Mr. Galloway having asked for an opportunity of defending his views, we have pleasure in publishing his observations in the Appendix to this Volume. Reference is made in Vol. II. p. 172 to Mr. T. L. Watson’s the

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CHURCHES OF THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES.

The following churches of this period are arranged in alphabetical order:—...

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THIRD OR LATE POINTED PERIOD.

In passing from the Middle Pointed to the Late Pointed periods in Scotland, we do not find any distinct break in the style of architecture such as exists between the First and Second Pointed periods. The middle pointed style passes by gentle gradation into the late pointed style, and there is some difficulty in fixing the period when the one ceases and the other begins. When buildings such as Melrose Abbey and Lincluden College are compared with Dunglass, Corstorphine, and other collegiate churc

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PAISLEY ABBEY, Renfrewshire.

Paisley Abbey is fortunate in having found in the Very Rev. J. Cameron Lees, D.D., formerly one of the ministers of the parish, so able a historian. We are largely indebted to his work, The Abbey of Paisley, 1163-1878 , for the following historical notices. The Abbey was founded by Walter, son of Alan, the High Steward of Scotland, who had accompanied David I. from Shropshire, and received lands from him in Renfrewshire. Having resolved to follow the example of his patron, and found a monastery

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DUNKELD CATHEDRAL, Perthshire.

Situated in the beautiful, though rugged, glen which forms the pass to the Highlands from the fertile lowlands of Perthshire, this grey and venerable ruin adds an unexpected and charming interest to the lovely scenery of the locality. The mountain range through which the pass penetrates long formed a barrier to the access of the Scottish kings to the Celtic provinces further north, and the nearness of the Highland clans was a constant source of menace to the Church. For that reason the bishop’s

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IONA CATHEDRAL, Arglyeshire.

The original settlement of St. Columba in Iona took place A.D. 563. [30] Dr Skene has shown [31] that the place where the monastery was first situated lay a short distance to the north of the existing ruins. The vallum which enclosed the establishment can still be traced, as well as the burying-ground, the site of the mill, and other features; but the principal erections, being constructed of wood and wattle, have necessarily disappeared. Owing to the destruction of the buildings by fire in 802

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ST. MACHAR’S CATHEDRAL, Old Aberdeen.

Old Aberdeen is situated on the river Don, about two miles north from the town of Aberdeen on the Dee. The cathedral, which is dedicated to St. Machar, is built in granite, and is now considerably reduced in size from its original dimensions. The nave (Fig. 1004 ) is entire and is used as the parish church. The walls of the transepts exist only to the height of about 10 feet. The choir has been entirely destroyed. The bishop’s palace, which stood at the east end of the cathedral, has also disapp

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TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH, Edinburgh.

This church stood in the hollow between the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh, on the west side of Leith Wynd. It was founded by Mary of Gueldres, Queen of James II. , shortly after that king’s death in 1460, the charter of erection being dated 1462. The edifice was dedicated to the “honour and praise of the Holy Trinity, to the ever blessed and glorious Virgin Mary, to Saint Ninian the Confessor, and to all the saints and elect people of God.” [49] The foundation was established for a provost, eig

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THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST, Perth.

The ancient City of Perth, one of the favourite residences of the kings of Scotland, formerly possessed, as might be expected, many well endowed religious establishments. The principal of these was the Dominican or Blackfriars’ Monastery, founded by Alexander II. in 1231. The buildings were extensive, and formed the residence of the Scottish kings when in the Fair City. It was here that James I. was staying at the time of his assassination. The Carmelites or Whitefriars had also a convent close

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DUNDEE CHURCH TOWER.

The earliest notice in history of Dundee occurs in the first charter of Lindores Abbey, executed before 1198, in which the Church of Dundee is bestowed on the abbey. The church then existing is stated to have been erected by Earl David of Huntingdon, as a thankoffering for his escape from a great tempest. The Church of Dundee thus belonged to the Abbey of Lindores, which stood on the opposite side of the Frith of Tay, and a little further up the river. In the time of Abbot James of Rossy (1442),

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GLENLUCE ABBEY, Wigtonshire.

This abbey, like so many others, stands in a fertile holm or flat ground in the quiet valley of the Water of Luce, about one mile and a half from the town of Glenluce. Although sometimes called Vallis Lucis , the name is probably the same as Luss in Dumbartonshire, meaning a place of herbs. The abbey was founded in 1190 by Roland, Lord of Galloway, and colonised by Cistercians from Melrose. The buildings were at one time “extensive and magnificent,” but the ruins are now very scanty. Of the chur

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TORPHICHEN CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

This church, from the circumstance of its castle-like appearance and its possessing a complete dwelling-house over the transepts, was included in The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland , Vol. II. p. 131, in which a full description of it is given, illustrated with numerous drawings. The building is here introduced with the view of more fully explaining some features formerly omitted, and also to form a complete record of such an important example. The new features introduced in th

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ST. ANTHONY’S CHAPEL, Edinburgh.

This edifice occupies a very picturesque situation on the summit of a crag in the bosom of Arthur’s Seat, not far above the base of the hill. Immediately to the north and west of the walls the ground descends in an abrupt and precipitous manner, and to the south the surface, which gradually rises, is rough and rocky (Fig. 1066 ); while on the east a huge wall of rock towers high above the building, completely hemming it in on that side. Only the north wall of the chapel and the returns of the we

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ROSSLYN, Mid-Lothian.

The village of Rosslyn is picturesquely situated on the high north bank of the river North Esk, about seven miles south from Edinburgh; and the ancient castle of the St. Clairs [82] stands on an isolated promontory called the College Hill, which, adjoining the village of Rosslyn, juts out Fig. 1070. —The Collegiate Church of Rosslyn. Plan. into the deep valley of the Esk. The celebrated Church of Rosslyn, erected by the proprietors of the castle, stands on the brow of the steep bank of the river

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF DUNGLASS,[87] Haddingtonshire.

This deserted but very complete edifice is situated within one mile of Cockburnspath Railway Station. It is in a good state of preservation, and its masonry may be described as almost entire, with the exception of the damages done to it during last century, when it was fitted up for stabling and other farm purposes; or, as stated in the Hutton Collection, [88] made in the eighteenth century, “It is at present employed in a great variety of domestic uses.” The structure now stands a neglected rui

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FOWLIS EASTER CHURCH, Perthshire.[92]

This edifice, which is one of the best preserved and most interesting of the minor churches of its date in Scotland, is situated about six miles north-west from Dundee. The lands of Fowlis came into the possession of the family of Gray by marriage about the year 1397, when the only daughter of the last Mortimer of Fowlis and Aberdour married Sir Andrew Gray of Broxmouth. He was the first Lord Gray, and was succeeded by his son Andrew, the second Lord Gray, and it was doubtless by this Andrew Gra

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COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ST. SALVATOR, ST. ANDREWS, Fifeshire.

The College of St. Salvator was founded and endowed by Bishop Kennedy, in 1456, for a provost and prebendaries. This bishop was distinguished for his liberality to the Church. He also founded and endowed a Franciscan Monastery in St. Andrews, which has now entirely disappeared. The Church of St. Salvator is the only portion of the college buildings which still survives. It is now attached to the united colleges of St. Leonard’s and St. Salvator, which form the existing University of Fig. 1121. —

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF DALKEITH, Mid-Lothian.

The town of Dalkeith stands between the rivers North and South Esk, about six miles south from Edinburgh. A church dedicated to St. Nicholas existed here from an early period. It was raised into a collegiate church in the fifteenth century, and since the Reformation has been the church of the parish. This church (Fig. 1127 ) consults of a nave of three bays with aisles, and a western tower, north and south transepts, and an aisleless choir of three bays, with an eastern apse. The western part of

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ST. MUNGO’S CHURCH, BORTHWICK, Mid-Lothian.

This church is situated near the well known castle of the same name in the south-east part of the county, and about nine miles from Edinburgh. With the exception of the south aisle or chapel, the church (Fig. 1136 ) was entirely rebuilt about forty years ago. [103] To judge from what of the old plan can now be made out, the structure has originally been a Norman one, with aisleless nave and choir, and a circular eastern apse. The reconstruction of the edifice included that of the apse and the so

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LADYKIRK CHURCH, Berwickshire.

This very complete and almost unaltered church stands on the high north bank of the river Tweed, nearly opposite Norham Castle. Before the Reformation the parish consisted of the two parishes of Upsetlington and Horndene. In 1296 the parson of the former swore fealty to Edward I., who, while endeavouring to arrange regarding the succession to the crown of Scotland, adjourned the Scottish Parliament from Brigham in England to an open field in Upsetlington. The existing church is said to have been

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SETON COLLEGIATE CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

A disused edifice situated in the private grounds of Seton Castle, about two miles east from Prestonpans Railway Station. The parish of Seton having been joined to that of Tranent in 1580, service in the church has from that time been abandoned. There was a church here from an early date. It is rated in the ancient Taxatio at 18 merks. In a MS. pedigree of the family of Seton, by Maitland of Lethington, quoted by Grose, [105] it is stated that Sir Alex. Seton, in the time of David II. , was buri

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ARBUTHNOTT, Kincardineshire.

This church, which is dedicated to St. Ternan, is situated about three or four miles from Bervie, and not far from the old mansion of Arbuthnott. It is an exceedingly interesting and picturesque structure, and contains work of three distinct periods, representing different phases of Scottish ecclesiastical architecture. There is first the chancel (Fig. 1156 ), dedicated by Bishop Bernham in 1242, and possibly the nave may also be in part of the same period. Then there is the very striking south

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF CRICHTON, Mid-Lothian.

This edifice stands on the south side of the valley where the river Tyne takes its rise, about four miles from Tynehead Railway Station. It is seen from the railway, together with Crichton Castle, from which it is only about a quarter of a mile distant. The building is still in use as the parish church. It consists (Fig. 1165 ) of a chancel, measuring internally about 44 feet from east to west by about 24 feet 10 inches in width, a central tower about 24 feet square, Fig. 1165. —The Collegiate C

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF CORSTORPHINE, Mid-Lothian.

The village of Corstorphine is situated about three miles west of Edinburgh. The church is intimately associated with the Forrester family. It was erected and endowed by them, and their tombs and monuments, emblazoned Fig. 1172. —The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Plan. with heraldic emblems, are conspicuous on its walls. The manor was acquired by Adam Forrester, a burgess and provost of Edinburgh, in the year 1376, and the title of Lord Forrester of Corstorphine continued in the family till

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THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF CRAIL, Fifeshire.

The quaint old seaport of Crail lies near the eastern point of the north side of the Frith of Forth. It is one of the earliest places in Scotland which are known to have carried on commerce with the Continent, having had intercourse with the Netherlands in the ninth century, where its salt fish were sold, and the name of Crail occurs on a map of the twelfth century. There was in ancient times a royal castle at Crail, in which David I. resided, and a number of names still exist in the locality, s

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ST. MARY’S, WHITEKIRK, Haddingtonshire.

This charming old building is one of the few rural parish churches of mediæval times still used for divine service. The church seems to have had its origin in a neighbouring holy well. The following extract from documents in the Vatican gives some account of its origin and history:— [116] “The great number of miracles performed at this well were so numerous that in 1309 John Abernethy, with the assistance of the monks of Melrose, procured a shrine to be erected, and dedicated it to the Holy Moth

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MID-CALDER CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

The town of Mid-Calder is situated in the western part of the County of Mid-Lothian. The church was begun in the sixteenth century by Master Peter Sandilands, Rector of Mid-Calder, a younger son of the sixth Knight of Calder. Having raised the walls of the vestry or revestry and laid the foundations of the choir, and being then an old man, he provided the money for the entire completion of the church, including the nave, tower, &amp;c., and paid a sum over to Sir James Sandilands of Calder (

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KING’S COLLEGE CHAPEL, Aberdeen.

The west end of this fine chapel, with its extremely picturesque tower (Fig. 1207 ), fronts the main street of Old Aberdeen, and forms the north-west corner of the college quadrangle. The chapel (Fig. 1208 ) is a long narrow building, with a three-sided apsidal east end, measuring inside the walls about 122 feet 6 inches in length by about 28 feet in width. It is divided into six bays by projecting buttresses, and has a large window filled with mullions and tracery in each bay on the north side,

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THE CHURCH OF THE MONASTERY OF THE CARMELITE FRIARS, South Queensferry.

Queensferry is a town on the south side of the Frith of Forth, at the point where the water narrows and is spanned by the Forth Bridge. At the time the drawings of this church were made, about thirty years ago, it was entire, as shown on the Plan (Fig. 1214 ), the nave only being roofless; but a few years afterwards the nave was ruthlessly cast down, and the materials were entirely destroyed. The transept and Fig. 1214. —Carmelite Friars’ Monastery. Plan. Fig. 1215. —Carmelite Friars’ Monastery.

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ST. BOTHAN’S COLLEGIATE CHURCH, Yester, Haddingtonshire.

A structure partly old and partly new, which stands beside the mansion house of Yester, the seat of the Marquis of Tweeddale. Its position is very fine, situated as it is by the side of a clear flowing stream, and surrounded by splendidly wooded braes. The construction of the old part of the building, as seen in the interior, is very massive and, considering its small dimensions, imposing, and it remains in a good state of preservation. The edifice (Fig. 1232 ) consists of a choir and transepts.

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PARISH CHURCH, Stirling.[125]

This is one of the best preserved of the old churches of Scotland, and although it has suffered severely by various renovations and restorations, it is still a building of very considerable interest. The church occupies a high situation on the Castle Hill, and as approached up the steep streets, the lofty east end which first appears to view, with its prominent buttresses and tall windows, has a most imposing and picturesque effect. [126] The edifice consists of two divisions, the nave and choir

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TULLIBARDINE CHURCH, Perthshire.

This edifice, which is unused, although in an almost perfect state of preservation, is situated about six miles south from Crieff. It “was founded in honour of our Blessed Saviour, for a provost and several prebendaries, by Sir David Murray of Tullibardine, ancestor of the Duke of Athol, in Fig. 1259. —Tullibardine Church. Arms of Sir David Murray in Chancel. the year 1446.” [130] Sir David died the same year and was buried in the church, where his arms (Fig. 1259 ) still remain on the interior

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COLLEGIATE CHURCH, Maybole.

The ancient town of Maybole, which is situated on the side of a hill about nine miles south from Ayr, was formerly the capital of Carrick, and contained the castle of the Earl of Cassillis [131] and the town houses of the lairds of the district. Being within two miles of Crosraguel Abbey and having a collegiate establishment within the town, the ecclesiastical Fig. 1267. Tullibardine Church. Jamb of Transept Arch. Fig. 1272. —Maybole Collegiate Church. Plan. element would not be wanting in the s

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BIGGAR COLLEGIATE CHURCH, Lanarkshire.

The town of Biggar lies in a valley in the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, through which communication is obtained between the upper reaches of the Clyde and the Tweed. From an early period Biggar was a rectory in the Deanery of Lanark. The parson of Biggar is mentioned in deeds of the twelfth century, and several of the rectors held important appointments at Court. In 1545 the Church of St. Nicholas was founded and endowed by Malcolm, Lord Fleming, the Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. The charter o

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CARNWATH CHURCH, Lanarkshire.

Carnwath is situated about two miles west from Carstairs Junction. The original foundation of this church dates from a very early time. In the middle of the twelfth century it was bestowed by William de Sumerville on Glasgow Cathedral, which grant was confirmed by Pope Alexander III. in 1170. The existing building is, however, of much more recent date. It formed the north wing of the parish church, and was added after a Collegiate foundation had been erected in 1425 by Thomas, first Lord Somervi

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CASTLE SEMPLE COLLEGIATE CHURCH, Renfrewshire.

This somewhat remarkable structure stands in the midst of beautiful woodland scenery, on a gentle acclivity above Lochwinnoch, near the point at the north end where the Black Cart flows from the loch. A collegiate church was founded on this site, and endowed in 1504 Fig. 1284. —Castle Semple Collegiate Church. Plan. Fig. 1285. —Castle Semple Collegiate Church. View from South-East. Fig. 1286. —Castle Semple Collegiate Church. View from North-West. by John, first Lord Sempill, near his own reside

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GREYFRIARS’ CHURCH,[135] Elgin.

The mendicant orders were introduced into Scotland by Alexander II. (1214-49), who is stated to have founded eight convents for Dominicans, but only two for Franciscans. From an old undated charter it is believed that the latter order was established in Elgin under Alexander III., but their original monastery appears to have fallen into decay. It was, however, revived under James I. (1424-37) for the order of Observantines introduced into Scotland by that king. Fig. 1290. —Greyfriars’ Church, El

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GREYFRIARS’ CHURCH, Aberdeen.

This structure, which took the place of an older one, was built by the well-known prelate Bishop Gavin Dunbar [136] at his own expense, between the years 1518 and 1532. Its architect was Alexander Galloway, parson Fig. 1292. —Greyfriars’ Church, Aberdeen. Plan. of Kinkell, a well-known Churchman, who is specially referred to in the description of the later church. This church was dedicated to the Virgin. At the Reformation it was bestowed on Marischal College, and was thereafter known as the Col

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THE PRIORY CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENT, Rowdil, Harris, Inverness-shire.

Amongst the numerous remains of ancient ecclesiastical structures still surviving in the Western Isles, the Church of St. Clement, situated near the south point of Harris, holds a prominent place, being one of the very few ancient structures in that region which are not ruinous, and are still in use for public worship. The origin of the church is uncertain, but it is supposed to have been originally founded by an emissary from Iona, and to have fallen into decay during the occupation of the Nors

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ORONSAY PRIORY,[142] Argyllshire.

Notwithstanding the very numerous small churches and chapels found in the Western Isles, [143] there are comparatively few remains of monasteries. The original Celtic religious establishments were, doubtless, monastic in their form and structure, but of convents in the later sense, corresponding with those so common on the mainland, few traces are now to be seen. Next to the great Abbey of the Isles at Iona and the nunnery on the same island, the largest monastic establishment in the Western Isl

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ST. MAELRUBBA, LOCH EYNORT, Skye.

The site of the ancient Church of St. Maelrubba, at the head of Loch Eynort in the south of Skye, is now occupied by a more recent ruin. [147] A very interesting relic of the ancient church is, however, preserved in the remarkable font (Figs. 1314 and 1315 ), which, after some wandering and neglect, has at last found a suitable resting-place in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in Edinburgh. An account of its transference from the shore of Loch Eynort to the Museum is given by

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KINKELL CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

A ruinous building, very prettily situated on the left bank of the Don, about three miles north from Kintore. Kinkell was once, as its name signifies, the head church of the district, and had under it six subordinate churches. In 1754 the Lords Commissioners for plantation of kirks annexed one third of the parish of Kinkell to that of Kintore, the remainder going to augment the parish of Keithhall. In 1771 the Church Fig. 1316. —Kinkell Church. Plan. of Kinkell was unroofed in order to supply ma

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SACRAMENT HOUSE, KINTORE, Aberdeenshire.

Another piece of sculpture (Fig. 1320 ) said to have been removed from the Church of Kinkell is preserved at the Church of Kintore. It was at one time built into the outer wall of the Church of Kintore, but it has now been removed for better preservation into the interior. It Fig. 1320. —Sacrament House, Kintore. Old Monument built into Wall. Fig. 1320. —Sacrament House, Kintore. Old Monument built into Wall. originally consisted of two parts, the lower portion containing the ambry for the recep

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ST. ADAMNAN’S CHAPEL, Aberdeenshire.

A small chapel situated near Leask, some two or three miles inland from the old Castle of Slains. It is surrounded by what appears to have been a churchyard, but is now covered with stunted trees. The chapel (Fig. 1321 ) is filled with its own ruins and is utterly uncared for. The walls are fairly entire for a height of about 7 feet, while the east gable is nearly complete, and contains a pointed window about 7 feet wide, which was probably filled with tracery. The outside jambs are gone, but th

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ARDCHATTAN CHURCH, Argyleshire.

Slight fragments of this ancient church are to be found on the north shore of Loch Etive, about four miles from Bonawe Ferry, near Taynuilt Station. This priory, dedicated to St. Modan, is said to have been founded in 1231 by Duncan Mackowle or MacDougal of Lorn, for monks of the order of Vallis Caulium. The remains (Fig. 1322 ) consist of the north, east, and west walls of what has been an oblong chamber, and apparently Fig. 1322. —Ardchattan Church. Plan. the choir of a church. It measures 66

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KILMUN CHURCH, Argyleshire.

On the north shore of the Holy Loch, about one mile and a half from Strone, stand the small ruins of the ancient Collegiate establishment of Kilmun. According to Dr. Skene a Columban establishment was here founded by St. Fintan Munnu of Teach in Munnu in Ireland. The district of Cowal, in which this establishment was situated, was long in the possession of the Lamont Clan, but was subsequently acquired by the Campbells. The church had, in the thirteenth century, passed into lay hands, “as, betwe

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ALLOWAY KIRK, Ayrshire.

This old structure, made famous by the genius of Burns, stands in its churchyard, surrounded with ancient trees, on the banks of the Doon, about three miles southwards from Ayr. The burying-ground contains many strangely sculptured tombstones, and a plain slab marks the grave of the poet’s father. Mention of Alloway occurs in 1236. In the beginning of the sixteenth century, when James VI. refounded and enlarged the Chapel Royal of Stirling, he annexed to it the Church of Alloway in Kyle, to form

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OLD DAILLY CHURCH, Ayrshire.

A ruin situated in the vale of the Girvan Water, about three miles east from Girvan. It stands in the centre of a spacious churchyard, planted with noble trees. Within its walls rest the remains of several of the Martyrs of the Covenant. The church was anciently called Dalmakervan, and was dedicated to St. Michael. It was granted by Duncan, first Earl of Carrick, to the monks of Paisley, and confirmed to them by Alexander II. in 1236. It was afterwards transferred to the monks of Crosraguel, and

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STRAITON CHURCH, Ayrshire.

The village of Straiten stands near the north base of the mountains which form the boundary between Ayrshire and Kirkcudbrightshire. It is situated in a pastoral district about seven miles south-east from Maybole, and near the right bank of the Girvan Water. Fig. 1330. —Straiton Church. South Wing. The existing church is plain and of post-Reformation date, except a wing (Fig. 1330 ) which extends like a transept to the south, and measures about 21 feet 3 inches each way. This wing has been built

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CULLEN CHURCH, Banffshire.

The ancient town of Cullen stood on the right bank of Cullen Water, at a little distance from the coast. It was greatly destroyed in the time of Montrose, and has been rebuilt on a new site nearer the sea. The old church, however, which is dedicated to St. Mary, still stands, surrounded Fig. 1332. —Cullen Church. Plan. by the churchyard, on the old site near Cullen House, and continues to be used as the Parish Church. Although it has been altered at different times it still retains part of the a

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DESKFORD CHURCH, Banffshire.

The old church of Deskford is situated in its ancient churchyard, about four miles south from Cullen. The church is now a roofless ruin, a new church having been erected in the vicinity. The building is a plain parallelogram, and has no features of note, except the large sacrament house in the north wall near the east end. It seems to have been the fashion in the sixteenth century in this part of the country to make these features very ornamental. Such are the ambries or sacrament houses at Kink

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ST. MOLOC’S or ST. MOLUOG’S CHURCH, Mortlach, Banffshire.

It was formerly believed, on the evidence of Boece, that Malcolm ii. in a battle with the Danes, looking up to the Chapel of St. Moloc at Mortlach, vowed that, if successful, he would there erect a cathedral and found a bishop’s see. The record of the See of Aberdeen appeared to support this statement, and mentioned further that the see was afterwards transferred by David i. to Aberdeen. But Professor Cosmo Innes has Fig. 1341. —St. Moloc’s or St. Moluog’s Church. Plan. proved that these stories

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ABBEY ST. BATHANS, Berwickshire.[157]

The Abbey of St. Bothan was a convent for Cistercian nuns. Its scanty remains are situated about four miles south-west from Grant’s House Railway Station, in a beautiful valley on the right bank of the Whitadder, which here flows a calm full stream, surrounded by gently swelling hills—an ideal situation for such a house. The modern parish church appears to occupy the site of the ancient church of the abbey, and probably the nunnery buildings were included within the existing churchyard, which li

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BASSENDEAN CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The ancient parish of Bassendean is now incorporated with that of Westruther, both in the south-west part of Berwickshire, and the church has long been disused. The remains of Bassendean Church, which was dedicated to St. Mary, lie five and a half miles west of Greenlaw. The walls are broken down, Fig. 1346. —Bassendean Church. Plan. but the plan (Fig. 1346 ) can still be traced. The structure is a simple oblong, measuring 54 feet 6 inches in length by about 20 feet in width externally. The door

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COCKBURNSPATH CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The village of Cockburnspath is situated about seven miles south-east of Dunbar. The church here is peculiar and unique, in having a round tower in the centre of the west wall. It is a long narrow building (Fig. 1349), measuring about 80 feet in length by 18 feet 3 inches in width. The structure has been much knocked about, having undergone at least two restorations at different times, the last being about twenty years ago. It is therefore not surprising to find that there is nothing left inside

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PRESTON CHURCH, Berwickshire.

A ruined church situated about two miles north from Duns. It is in a state of complete dilapidation, and is densely covered with ivy. The structure (Fig. 1352 ) consists of a nave and chancel of equal width, the whole internal length being about 70 feet by 14 feet 6 inches in width, and the chancel is about 18 feet 6 inches long. The round chancel arch is blocked, and it is doubtful if it is original. There are two narrow pointed windows in the east wall and one in the west wall, all widely spla

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ST. MARY’S ABBEY, Rothesay, Buteshire.

About half a mile westwards from the town of Rothesay, and approached by an avenue of fine old trees, there stands in the ancient burial-ground the choir of the Abbey Church of St. Mary. The west end has been built up with a wall containing a wide gateway, but otherwise the chancel remains in fair preservation, although roofless. A modern church has been erected beside it, but with an interval of a few inches between the new and old structures. The ancient chancel (Fig. 1355 ) now measures 27 fe

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THE PARISH CHURCH AND THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ST. MARY, Dumbarton, Dumbartonshire.

The town of Dumbarton is situated on the left bank of the river Leven, near its junction with the Clyde, and not far from the detached rock on which stands the Castle of Dumbarton. A church existed here from a very early time, and the parish church appears to have been rebuilt at least three times, and is now a modern edifice of 1811. Previously the parish church was represented by the quaint structure shown in Fig. 1359 , which has entirely disappeared, along with the hospital or bead-house adj

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CHAPEL AT THE KIRKTON OF KILMAHEW,[168] Dumbartonshire.

This structure is an interesting example of a private ecclesiastical foundation. The remains of the chapel stand in an ancient churchyard, on a knoll close to a small stream, about one and a half miles north-west from Cardross Railway Station. The building has attached to it the piece of land with which it was endowed, and is surrounded by the estate of Kilmahew, the property of John William Burns, Esq., to whom we are indebted for bringing the structure under our notice. This chapel is believed

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CANONBY PRIORY, Dumfriesshire.

“Some remains of this canonry were, until recently, visible at Halgreen.... A portion of the ancient church (the sedilia) may be seen in the churchyard.” [171] This priory was founded during the reign of David I. by Turgot de Rossendal, near the junction of the Esk and Liddel, and was destroyed by the English after the battle of Solway Moss in 1542. The annexed illustration (Fig. 1365 ) shows the only fragment that survives. It is probably of thirteenth century work (but was omitted in Vol. II.

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KIRKBRYDE CHURCH, Dumfriesshire.[172]

A ruin situated five or six miles south-east from Sanquhar. The church (Fig. 1366 ) measures 42 feet 4 inches in length by 14 feet 6 inches wide inside. Fig. 1366. —Kirkbryde Church. Plan. There is a north chapel, measuring about 10 feet by 9 feet 3 inches, opening into the church by a round arch. The east wall (Fig. 1367 ), on which is the belfry, is almost entire, as is also the greater part of the west wall and the south wall (Fig. 1368 ). The north wall is pretty well preserved at the east e

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ST. CUTHBERT’S, Moffat, Dumfriesshire.

On a hill on the opposite side of the River Annan from the town of Moffat stand the small remains of St. Cuthbert’s Church. The building is believed to have been originally erected by the Knights Templars, who had considerable possessions in this locality. All that now remains of the structure is a portion of what appears to have been the west wall, containing parts of a pointed window (Fig. 1371 ), which has been divided into three lights by two mullions, one of which, and one arch and half of

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SANQUHAR CHURCH, Dumfriesshire.

The old church of Sanquhar was demolished in 1827, and the present church was built partly on its site, as indicated by the dotted lines shown Fig. 1372. —Sanquhar Church. Plan. on the Plan (Fig. 1372 ). In 1895 Lord Bute had excavations made, which partly revealed the Plan now submitted. [173] The position of the east wall was thus determined, as likewise that of the east end of the north wall with one buttress, and considerable portions of the south wall throughout its whole length, with indic

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CARNOCK CHURCH, Fifeshire.

A ruinous structure comprising some fragments of the ancient parish church which was remodelled soon after the Reformation. The church (Fig. 1374 ) now measures, internally, about 42 feet in length by 17 feet 6 inches in width. The east end contains one narrow, but complete, pointed window, with a simple jamb moulding, and the remains of another similar window, both having wide internal splays. Another narrow Fig. 1374. —Carnock Church. Plan. pointed window yet exists in the north wall, but in t

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DYSART CHURCH, Fifeshire.

This church has already been illustrated and described at length; [175] but as it is a building of considerable importance, it is introduced here in order to illustrate some points not formerly brought out. The edifice is a long parallelogram, with central avenue and north and south aisles, and is fairly entire along its whole length, except the outer wall of the north aisle. It has a lofty pele-like tower quite entire at the west end of the south aisle (Fig. 1376 ), which enters from the interi

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KILCONQUHAR CHURCH, Fifeshire.

A small ruin consisting of three arches of an old church, which stood on the ancient site before the present modern structure was erected in the immediate vicinity. The village of Kilconquhar is situated on a large loch about one mile and a half north-west from Elie. Fig. 1381. —Kilconquhar Church. View from South-West. The name is derived from the ancient Saint Connacher. There is little of the history of the church preserved. It was granted in 1200 by Duncan, Earl of Fife, to the Convent of No

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KILRENNY CHURCH, Fifeshire.

The village and church of Kilrenny stand about one mile inland from the coast at Anstruther. The only record before the Reformation is that in 1268 a pension was given to the vicar, who in 1336 was a certain “John.” [177] The tower of the church (Fig. 1383 ) is old, and is attached to a modern edifice. It is of the form common in Fife about the time of the Reformation, being carried up (Fig. 1384 ) without buttresses or ornament, Fig. 1383. —Kilrenny Church. Plan of Tower, &amp;c. and having

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ROSYTH CHURCH, Fifeshire.

A ruin situated on the shore of the Frith of Forth about five miles west from North Queensferry and about one mile east of Charleston. Fig. 1385. —Rosyth Church. Plan. Part of the structure is ancient, but the western portion has been added in post-Reformation times. All that now remains of the building consists Fig. 1386. —Rosyth Church. View from North-East. (Fig. 1385 ) of the east wall and gable, and a considerable part of the north wall. The east end (Fig. 1386 ) contains two narrow pointed

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THE CHURCH OF THE DOMINICANS OR BLACKFRIARS, St. Andrews, Fifeshire.

Amongst the many remains of religious establishments still visible in this old ecclesiastical centre, the ruins of a small part of the Church of the Blackfriars are prominent from their situation, being an ivy clad fragment of the church which stands detached in the grounds of the Madras College, and forms a conspicuous object close to South Street, one of the leading thoroughfares of the town. The Dominicans or Friars preachers were introduced into Scotland in 1231 by Bishop Clement of Dunblane

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THE CHURCH OF ST. LEONARD’S COLLEGE, St. Andrews, Fifeshire.

In the middle of the thirteenth century the Hospitium or Guest Hall of St. Leonard’s was founded by Prior John White, for the reception of pilgrims and visitors to St. Andrews. Some remains of the Guest Hall Fig. 1389. —Church of St. Leonard’s College, St. Andrews. Plan. have recently been excavated in the ground eastward from St. Leonard’s Church, from which it appears that it was a hall with central nave and two side aisles. The building was afterwards converted into a nunnery. In 1512 it was

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CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY, St. Andrews, Fifeshire.

Fig. 1391. —Church of the Holy Trinity, St. Andrews. Tower, from North-East. This church, usually called the Town Church, is of ancient foundation, but was almost entirely rebuilt at the end of last century. The church which was then demolished is believed to have been erected in 1412. The north-west tower (Fig. 1391 ) is the only part of the old structure which survives. Like the north-west tower at Cupar it rises from the north and west walls of the north aisle, without buttresses to mark its

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AIRLIE CHURCH, Forfarshire.

Two relics of the ancient church of St. Medan (demolished 1783) have been preserved, one being a mutilated figure of St. John the Baptist (Fig. 1392 ) built into the west gable of the existing church, and the other a sacrament house (Fig. 1393 ) inserted in the wall under Fig. 1392. —Airlie Church. Figure in Tower. Fig. 1394. —Airlie Church. Belfry. the stair to the gallery. The sacrament house is of rude design and workmanship, and is evidently of very late date. The ambry has an opening 10½ in

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INVERGOWRIE CHURCH, Forfarshire.

A simple oblong ruin situated about three miles west from Dundee. The site is associated with the Celtic Church, and is one of the churches believed to have been founded by St. Boniface, in Angus, about the Fig. 1395. —Invergowrie Church. Plan. beginning of the seventh century, Restennet being another. [179] Several fine sculptured stones of an early period are still preserved in the building. Fig. 1396. —Invergowrie Church. View from South-East. Fig. 1397. Invergowrie Church. South Window. Betw

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MAINS CHURCH, Forfarshire.

This fragment of a church is situated in the centre of its churchyard, on the margin of a romantic glen, on the opposite side of which stands the ruined Castle of Mains, in the region of Strath Dichty, about three miles north from Dundee. The remains consist of a small building which projected from the south side of the church, and which Mr. Muir [180] calls “the sacristy of the demolished church of Mains.” The view (Fig. 1399 ) shows three lancet windows in the south gable, which are of very si

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MARYTON CHURCH, Forfarshire.[181]

Maryton Church is situated about two miles south-west of Montrose. The fine grave slab (Fig. 1400 ) was found by Mr. Robertson lying broken and uncared for; and at his suggestion the minister, Mr. Fraser, Fig. 1400. —Maryton Church. Grave Slab. had it removed and placed in the church vestry. The upper part is occupied with a finely incised figure of a knight in sixteenth century costume, and the lower portion is occupied with the arms, supporters, helmet, and mantling. The arms are, an oak tree

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PERT CHURCH, Forfarshire.[182]

An old church situated on the North Esk about midway between Montrose and Edzell. The building (Fig. 1401 ) is in a state of ruin and covered with ivy. It measures in the inside about 43 feet from east to west by about 18 feet in width. Fig. 1401. —Pert Church. Plan. There is a door in each of the north and south walls near the opposite ends, which have square lintels with rounded shoulders, as shown in Fig. 1402 ; and three narrow lancet windows (Figs. 1402 and 1403 ), two in the east wall and

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ST. VIGEAN’S CHURCH, Forfarshire.[183]

This church is pleasantly situated at the head of a little valley through which winds the stream of the Brothock, at a distance of between one and two miles north from Arbroath or Aberbrothock. Previous to the Reformation it was the parish church of Arbroath. The edifice stands on the top of a regularly shaped mound, and occupies nearly the whole of the summit. It has been the site of a religious settlement from a very remote period, far earlier than the erection of the great abbey at Arbroath.

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MONASTERY OF RED OR TRINITY FRIARS, Dunbar, Haddingtonshire.

This fragment (Fig. 1407 ) is all that remains of the monastery of the Red Friars at Dunbar. The field in which it stands is still known as the Friars’ Croft. Fig. 1407. —Monastery of Red or Trinity Friars, Dunbar. Plan. It is generally supposed [186] that this building was originally a belfry of the monastery, and that it was, at a subsequent period, converted into a pigeon house; but it is much more likely that, besides being the belfry, it was also the pigeon house of the monastery from the f

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KEITH CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

On a knoll within the grounds of Keith House, situated about five miles east from Tynehead Station, and a similar distance south from Ormiston, stand the ruins of an ancient church. It is surrounded by an old churchyard, and has a number of monuments erected against the south wall. According to an inscription on a tablet fixed to the wall, this edifice was “erected as a private chapel in the reign of David I. (1224-53) by Hervie de Keith, King’s Marischal; in the reign of Alexander II. (1214-49)

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ST. PALLADIUS’ CHURCH, Fordoun, Kincardineshire.

The village of Fordoun lies in the picturesque glen of the Luther Water, about 2½ miles west from Fordoun Railway Station. The name of Saint Palladius, the early “apostle of the Scots,” is attached to a small Fig. 1414. —St. Palladius’ Church, Fordoun. Plan. chapel which stands in the churchyard surrounding the parish church. Dr. Skene’s opinion [188] is that Palladius was sent to Ireland (then the country of the Scots) and that Terrananus or Ternan, his disciple, brought Fig. 1415. —St. Palladi

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OLD GIRTHON CHURCH, Kirkcudbrightshire.[190]

A roofless ruin (Fig. 1416 ), about two miles south of Gatehouse, with walls fairly entire. It measures internally about 71 feet long by about 20 feet wide, and is lighted by windows in the south wall, and two high narrow windows in the east end, over which, in the apex, there is a shallow niche. There is only one small high window in the north wall. Fig. 1416. —Old Girthon Church. Plan. The entrance door is in the south wall, not far from the centre of the church. In each end of the church ther

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BLANTYRE PRIORY, Lanarkshire.

The fragmentary ruins of this structure are situated on the left bank of the Clyde near Bothwell, at a point where the river forms a sudden bend from west to north, and where the priory is confronted on the opposite side by the great donjon of Bothwell Castle. The eastern walls of the priory stand on the very edge of a precipice, which rises perhaps 80 or 100 feet above the river. The buildings at this part are situated on fairly level ground, but immediately to the west the ground rises rapidly

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COVINGTON CHURCH, Lanarkshire.

Covington is a hamlet in the Upper Ward, about four miles south from Carstairs Junction. A church existed here from the time of David I. , and is frequently referred to in deeds. It stood near the Castle [192] of the Lindsays of Covington, who acquired the manor before 1442, and was no doubt in their gift and that of their predecessors in the property. The dedication seems to have been to St. Michael. [193] Fig. 1420. —Covington Church. View from South-East. The existing church (Fig. 1419 ) is o

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AULDCATHIE CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

Before the Reformation Auldcathie formed a separate parish, but it is now included in the parish of Dalmeny, of which it forms a detached portion. The ruins of the old church (Fig. 1423 ) now stand neglected in the middle of a large field. The walls are much reduced, and are gradually crumbling away, but the plan is still quite entire. The structure measures, internally, about 30 feet in length by 15 feet in width. There has been a door near the west end, both in the north and south walls, two w

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NEWLANDS CHURCH, Peeblesshire.

The ruined church of Newlands stands in the midst of the old churchyard, in the retired and quiet valley of the Lyne, which flows southwards towards the Tweed from near the foot of the Pentland Hills. It is about four miles from West Linton Station on the Dolphinton Railway. Fig. 1430.—Newlands Church. Plan. The church (Fig. 1430 ), which is a simple oblong in plan, is evidently in some degree of ancient date; but it has been considerably altered in post-Reformation times, in order to make it su

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CROSS CHURCH, Peebles.

The fragmentary ruins of the church of the monastery of the Redfriars stand in the middle of a fir plantation immediately to the west of the town of Peebles. All architectural interest connected with the edifice has been destroyed. The freestone work which Grose specially commends has been carried away, leaving only bare and ragged whinstone walls, and giving the structure a very desolate appearance. The monastic buildings were situated on the north side of the church; and the fir plantation, wh

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ST. ANDREW’S CHURCH, Peebles.

Rather less than a quarter of a mile west from the Cross Church there stands the tower of St. Andrew’s Church. It has been so completely restored or transformed by the late Dr. Chambers, that it is now of no interest whatever as a specimen of the ancient architecture of Scotland. A view of the tower as it appeared at the end of the eighteenth century will be found in the Antiquities of Scotland by Captain Grose; and on the Ordnance Map there is a plan of the church, from which it may be gathered

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ABERUTHVEN CHURCH, Perthshire.

A ruined church situated near the village of the same name, about two and a half miles east from Auchterarder. The walls are almost entire, except part of the south one, which has been knocked down to give room Fig. 1435. —Aberuthven Church. Plan. for a mausoleum of the Montrose family, bearing the inscription “John Adam—fecet 1736.” The church (Fig. 1435 ) measures, externally, 65 feet 2 inches by 21 feet 9 inches. Its only architectural features are a seventeenth century belfry on the west end

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ST. MOLOC’S CHURCH, Alyth, Perthshire.

Alyth is now a busy manufacturing town, and forms the terminus of a small branch line off the main railway between Perth and Forfar. It stands on the north side of Strathmore, at the point where the hills begin to rise, and the houses of the old part of the town are picturesquely terraced on the hillside. On one of these terraces may be seen the ruins of the ancient Fig. 1439. —St. Moloc’s Church, Alyth. Plan. church of St. Moloc or Malachi, according to the Statistical Account , but Mr. Muir ca

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AUCHTERARDER CHURCH, Perthshire.

This old church is situated a little to the north of the town, and is surrounded by an old churchyard. It is densely ivy clad and generally Fig. 1441. —Auchterarder Church. Plan. concealed by vegetation, and thoroughly neglected. The church (Fig. 1441 ) measures about 81 feet long by about 24 feet 6 inches wide externally. There is almost no architectural feature now Fig. 1442. Auchterarder Church. Piscina. Fig. 1443. —Auchterarder Church. View from South-West. visible except a piscina (Fig. 144

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CAMBUSMICHAEL CHURCH, Perthshire.

Finely situated on one of the most beautiful reaches of the Tay, a little below the Linn of Camsie and opposite the village of Stanley, this ruined church, with its churchyard, occupies the end of a plateau which slopes suddenly down to the river on the north side, and to a deep Fig. 1444. —Cambusmichael Church. Plan. ravine on the east; so that, like most churches bearing the name of St. Michael, it stands on a height. The building, as will be seen from the Plan (Fig. 1444 ) and the view (Fig.

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COUPAR ABBEY, Perthshire.[199]

Of this once great abbey almost nothing remains. The present parish church stands partly on the site of the monastic church, and the conventual buildings, with the cloister garth, occupied the ground which now forms the churchyard, at the south corner of which is the gateway with the Fig. 1447. —Coupar Abbey. Gateway. angle buttress shown in Fig. 1447 . This small fragment is the only piece of building, properly so called, which exists. It comprises a plain opening 6 feet wide by about 7 feet hi

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DRON CHURCH, Perthshire.

A ruin situated on the braes of the Carse of Cowrie, in the parish of Longforgan, about two miles distant from Fowlis Church. It is in a very fragmentary condition (Fig. 1454 ), only the chancel arch remaining in anything like a perfect state, together with the foundations of the side Fig. 1454. —Dron Church. View from South-West. walls and part of the east wall. As shown in Fig. 1455 , the chancel is about 28 feet long by 19 feet wide inside. The width of the chancel arch is about 11 feet, and

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ECCLESIAMAGIRDLE OR EXMAGIRDLE CHAPEL, Perthshire.

A small ruined chapel situated on the north side of the Ochil Hills, about three miles south-west from the Bridge of Earn. It is surrounded by an old burial-ground, and adjoins the picturesque seventeenth century mansion of Glenearn. The building (Fig. 1458 ), which is roofless, is otherwise fairly entire, but it is densely covered with ivy and its features are not easily seen. It measures about 25 feet 7 inches long by about Fig. 1458. —Ecclesiamagirdle or Exmagirdle Chapel. Plan. 11 feet 5 inc

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FORGANDENNY CHURCH, Perthshire.[205]

The small fragment of ancient work left at Forgandenny, a few miles south of Perth, along with the more important remains in the district, point to the importance of Strathearn in early times. That this has been originally a Norman church there can be no doubt, and it is suggestive and interesting to find such work here and at Dunning, each about two miles distant from Forteviot, the residence of the early Pictish kings. The building is still in use as the parish church, but has been greatly alt

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INCHAFFRAY ABBEY, Perthshire.

The ruins of the Abbey of Inchaffray, the ancient Insula Missarum, stand on a wooded mound not far from Madderty Station, about six miles east of Crieff. The abbey was founded by Gilbert, Earl of Stratherne, who succeeded his father, Earl Ferteth, in 1171, and died in 1223, and his first wife, Matildis, the daughter of William de Aubegni. Their eldest son, Gilchrist, was buried in 1198 at Inchaffray, which had been founded before that date. In 1200, when the great charter of the abbey was grante

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INNERPEFFRAY CHURCH, Perthshire.

The structure of this church is still entire, although the building is now only used as a place of burial. It is situated on a high knoll overlooking the river Earn, about four miles south-east from Crieff. Near the church on the bank of the river stands the ruined Castle of Innerpeffray, elsewhere described and illustrated. [207] Close to the west end of the church is the Library of Innerpeffray (shown in Fig. 1469 ), founded by David, Lord Madderty, in 1691. It contains a fine collection of ea

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KINFAUNS CHURCH, Perthshire.

This edifice is situated about four miles east from Perth, and continued to be the parish church till about forty years ago, when it was abandoned and allowed to fall into ruin. It is now roofless and the walls are very much reduced, except the south aisle, which contained the seats of the family of the Greys of Kinfauns and their burial-place. When the church was dismantled a painting was found on the plaster inside the west wall, but unfortunately no drawing was made of it, and it has now enti

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MEIGLE CHURCH FONT, Perthshire.

The old country town of Meigle is situated in the middle of Strathmore, not far from Alyth Junction on the railway between Perth and Forfar. The church stood in the middle of the village, and was rebuilt about the beginning of this century. When the old building was demolished, a font was dug out of the rubbish and erected on a pedestal in the minister’s garden. It remained there for a time, but when an Episcopal chapel was built, the font was removed into it, and is now in use there. It is one

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METHVEN COLLEGIATE CHURCH, Perthshire.[212]

Of the Church of Methven, consecrated by Bishop David de Bernham of St. Andrews on 25th August 1247, nothing now remains. The Collegiate Church or Provostry of Methven, as it is generally called, was founded in 1433 by Walter Stewart, the aged Earl of Athole. Before this time, King James i. had conferred the liferent of the Earldom of Strathearn upon the Earl of Athole, so that he was the great lord of the district, and was, besides, a son of Robert ii. Three years after the founding of this chu

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MONCRIEFF CHAPEL, Perthshire.

A ruined chapel situated in the grounds adjoining the mansion house of Moncrieff, about three miles south-east of Perth. It is closely hemmed in with trees and is completely ivy clad, and measures in the inside about 34 feet 6 inches long by 13 feet wide. The building (Fig. 1483 ) is a pre-Reformation Fig. 1483. —Moncrieff Chapel. Plan. church, but has evidently been used and altered in Presbyterian times, and within the last few years it has been enlarged with an apse and transepts, so as to fo

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WAST-TOWN CHURCH, Perthshire.

A ruined structure situated in the centre of its churchyard, in the decayed hamlet of Wast-Town, at a distance of about two miles northwards from Errol Railway Station, and not far from the old Castle of Kinnaird. The church (Fig. 1486 ) has consisted of a nave and chancel, the former about 43 feet long by 15 feet 2 inches wide inside, having walls from 3 to 4 feet thick. The chancel was apparently of the same width as the nave, Fig. 1486. —Wast-Town Church. Plan. but it has been entirely demoli

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MONUMENT IN RENFREW CHURCH.

This monument is placed in the modern parish church of Renfrew. It consists of a recumbent effigy resting on a sculptured tomb, and enclosed within an arched canopy. The inscription round the arch in Gothic raised letters is as follows:—“Hic iacet Johēs Ros miles quo(n)dam dominus de Hawkehede et Marioria uxor sua orate pro ipsis qui obit.” Crawford mentions in his History of Renfrewshire , p. 66, that Sir Josias (he means Sir John) Ross of Halkhead married “Marjory Mure, a daughter of Caldwel,”

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THE CHURCHES OF HOUSTON, ST. FILLAN’S, AND KILMALCOLM, Renfrewshire.

These three churches lie to the north-west of Paisley, in a straight line, about four miles apart. The Church of Houston is modern, and the only thing belonging to the ancient church which formerly stood there is shown in Fig. 1492 , being the recumbent figures of one of the Houston family and his wife. The monument which contained these statues is entirely gone, and they now lie in a lighted closet, built for their reception, beside the new church. The Houston arms are carved on the knight’s ar

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PARISH CHURCH, SELKIRK.

Of the important churches which existed here in the twelfth century no trace now remains. The parish church was in a state of ruin at the beginning of the sixteenth century, when a new one was built, which in turn followed its predecessors, and in the year 1747 another church was erected, the ruins of which still exist. The following description of the church taken down in 1747 occurs in Our Journall into Scotland , p. 15. [216] “They have a very pretty church where the hammermen and other trade

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WIGTON CHURCH, Wigtonshire.[219]

An ivy clad ruin standing in the old churchyard of Wigton. Only the east end (Fig. 1498 ) with a considerable portion of the south wall and a small portion of the north wall remain. The first measures 21 feet 2 inches wide on the inside, and the south wall extends for a length of about 55 feet. Fig. 1498. —Wigton Church. Plan. Mr. Muir writes of this church as follows: [220] —“By the remains of a string course and other bits of minor detail at the east end, it would appear that the building has

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CHURCHES OF THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES.

The ecclesiastical architecture of the mediæval period terminated at the introduction of the Reformation in 1560, but during the latter half of the sixteenth and the greater part of the seventeenth century a number of churches were erected which show some attempt to maintain or revive the style of earlier times. This tendency was doubtless encouraged by the strenuous effort which was made, under James I. and Charles I. and II. , to establish the Episcopal forms of Church government and service i

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ABERDOUR, Aberdeenshire.

A village about eight miles west of Fraserburgh. In the Book of Deer it is written, “Columcille and Drostan son of Cosgrach his pupil came Fig. 1499. —Aberdour. Plan. from I as God had shown to them unto Abbordo-boir and Bede the Pict was mormaer of Buchan before them, and it was he that gave them that Fig. 1500. —Aberdour. View from South-West. Fig. 1501. Aberdour. Jamb of Arch to Aisle. town in freedom for ever from Mormaer and tosech.” In these words a scribe, writing in the eleventh or twelf

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ANSTRUTHER, EASTER AND WESTER, Fifeshire.

These adjacent towns form one of the very interesting group of ancient seaports and places of commerce on the northern shore of the Frith of Forth. Anstruther is divided into two portions by the little river Dreel, which formed the harbour of Anstruther Wester, while Easter Anstruther extends in a wide crescent along the coast, and has a larger harbour of its own. Anstruther Wester belonged to the Priory of Pittenweem, and the parish church was dedicated to St. Nicolas. The town obtained a chart

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ST. MARY’S PARISH CHURCH, Auchterhouse, Forfarshire.

Fig. 1508. —St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. Chancel Arch. The village of Kirkton or Auchterhouse is situated about five miles north of Dundee. Fig. 1509. —St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. Section of Chancel Arch Mouldings. Fig. 1511. —St. Mary’s, Auchterhouse. Jamb of Doorway in Chancel. The old church consists of a nave and chancel, with a square west tower. The nave is about 56 feet long by 33 feet wide, and the chancel is about 27 feet long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The date (1630) Fig. 1510. —St. Mary’s,

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AYTOUN CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The town of Aytoun (formerly written Eytun) stands on the river Eye, about seven miles north from Berwick-on-Tweed, and half a mile from the railway station. The old church is situated in an open burial-ground, in connection with which a new church was erected some years ago. The old building appears, from the remains of its ivy-covered walls, to have been of considerable extent, but no details can now be made out. The only portion which remains in a tolerable state of preservation appears to ha

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BALLINGRY CHURCH, Fifeshire.

The present church of Ballingry is a modern structure built in 1831. It stands on the site of a pre-Reformation edifice, which has entirely disappeared. The window shown in Fig. 1514 clearly belongs to the seventeenth century, being part of a north aisle, which was evidently built about that time. The window is the only feature of interest in the Fig. 1514. —Ballingry Church. Window in North Aisle. building, and it is a good example of the Renaissance style, modified by the grafting on to it of

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BLAIR CHURCH,[228] Blair-Atholl, Perthshire.

The walls of this old church (Fig. 1515 ) still stand within the grounds of Blair Castle, the seat of the Duke of Atholl, and about five minutes’ walk from the Castle. The building is roofless and the walls are almost complete, but they have been much slapped and altered to make the place suitable for Presbyterian worship. The masonry is rubble work, built with stones gathered off the hills. The doors and windows have hewn jambs and lintels of freestone, all square-headed and splayed. A gravesto

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ST. BRANDAN’S, Boyndie, Banffshire.

The ruined Church of Boyndie or Inverboyndie stands on a slight elevation near the mouth of the small river of the same name, about two miles west from the town of Banff. The parish was formerly conjoined with Banff till 1634, when it was erected into a separate parish. The church is of ancient foundation, and was granted in 1211-14, along with that of Banff, to the monks of Arbroath. The old church stands in the churchyard, which is still used. It was abandoned in 1773, when a new church was bu

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ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, Cupar, Fifeshire.

The old Church of Cupar having become decayed, the Prior of St. Andrews, in 1415, erected a new church on a new site in the town. But in 1785 this church was also found to be in a decayed condition, and was rebuilt on the same site as that of the fifteenth century. Part of the old structure at the north-west angle was, however, not destroyed, and still survives. This portion (Fig. 1517 ) comprises three arches of the main or central nave and the tower at the north-west angle. The latter (Fig. 15

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ST. BRIDGET’S CHURCH, Dalgety, Fifeshire.

A remarkable structure, which stands near the Forth at the head of a small bay about two miles south-west from Aberdour, the road to it passing through the beautiful grounds of St. Colm House. The old church (Fig. 1520 ) forms the eastern part of the structure, while to the west has been erected a two-story building, containing on the ground floor a burial vault, and on the upper floor a “laird’s loft” or room for the Lord of the Manor, from which access was obtained to a gallery in the church.

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ST. JOHN’S CHURCH, Dalry, Kirkcudbrightshire.[229]

The village of Dalry or St. John’s Town stands on the east bank of the Dee, in the northern or Glenkens district of Kirkcudbrightshire, and is about ten miles north from Parton Railway Station. The old parish church was removed in 1829-31, when a new church was erected on the old site. An old burial vault formerly attached to the church, and known as the Kenmure burial aisle, has, however, been preserved, which (Fig. 1523 ), with its crow-stepped gable and large antiquely grilled window and pane

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DRAINIE CHURCH AND MICHAEL KIRK, Morayshire.

These two churches are examples of the revived Gothic architecture of post-Reformation times. The parish of Drainie was formed by the union of the two old parishes of Kineddar and Ogstown. They both lie on the Morayshire coast, about five to six miles north of Elgin, and fully two miles from Lossiemouth. The country is low lying, and used in former times to be marshy. Kineddar was a seat of the Bishopric of Moray before it was moved to Spynie, and ultimately to Elgin. There too stood a large for

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DURNESS CHURCH, Sutherlandshire.[230]

It is interesting to find in the neighbourhood of Cape Wrath a specimen of ecclesiastical architecture, even though of the seventeenth century. The old parish church, which is now a ruin, occupies the site of a cell of Dornoch monastery. It was built in 1619. The Plan (Fig. 1531 ) is somewhat irregular, but not unlike, in general form, to many of the churches of Scotland at the same period, having the pulpit placed in the centre of the long side wall, and facing the wing. In a recess is the grav

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EAST CALDER CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

This edifice was the parish church of East Calder till 1750, when a new church was erected at Kirknewton, and East Calder was united with that parish. These two parishes lie about ten miles west from Edinburgh. The Church of East Calder was dedicated to St. Cuthbert. At the accession of William the Lion the church was granted to the monks of Kelso. This parish was formerly called Calder-Clere, to distinguish it from Fig. 1533. —East Calder Church. Plan. Mid-Calder, which lies about one mile west

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EASSIE AND NEVAY, Forfarshire.

Two ruined parish churches, each in its churchyard, situated within two miles of each other and about nine miles south-west of Forfar. They are small buildings, measuring respectively 56 feet 6 inches by 15 feet 6 inches, and 53 feet 6 inches by 18 feet 6 inches within the walls (Fig. 1535 ). Neither church has any openings in the north wall. At Eassie (Fig. 1536 ) all the doors and windows are square-headed, and at Nevay they are the same, except that the west doorway is round-headed, but not a

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PULPIT FROM ST. CUTHBERT’S CHURCH, Edinburgh.

The annexed sketch (Fig. 1537 ) shows the old pulpit of St. Cuthbert’s Church as it stood in St. Cuthbert’s Poorhouse, Lothian Road, Edinburgh, before that building was removed in 1868. It appears [233] that when St. Cuthbert’s Church was demolished in 1773, the pulpit was transferred to the Poorhouse. Its date can be pretty well ascertained. From a minute of the kirk-session of 15th August 1651, we find that Cromwell’s soldiers had so completely sacked the church that there was “nayther pulpit,

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FETTERESSO CHURCH, Kincardineshire.

The parish of Fetteresso included a considerable part of the town of Stonehaven on the east coast of Kincardineshire. The old church, the ruins of which stand in a large churchyard, is situated near the Carron Water, about one mile and a half south-west from Stonehaven. The structure probably occupies the site of a very ancient church, dedicated to St. Cavan, which stood at the Hamlet of Fetteresso. It is beautifully situated amongst fine old trees. Fig. 1537. —Pulpit from St. Cuthbert’s Church,

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FORDEL CHAPEL, Fifeshire.

This is a private chapel in the beautiful grounds of Fordel Castle, [234] about two miles north from Inverkeithing. It bears the date of 1650, and tradition has it that the works were interrupted by Cromwell’s soldiers. The edifice is now used as a mortuary chapel by the proprietors of Fordel House. Fig. 1540. —Fordel Chapel. Plan. The structure bears the mark of the period when it was erected in the mixed style of its architecture, being partly an imitation of Gothic and partly Renaissance. It

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GARVALD CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

Situated about five miles south-east from Haddington, in the secluded valley of the Papana Water, stands the rebuilt Church of Garvald. Only a very few fragments remain (Fig. 1543 ) of the ornament of the ancient Fig. 1543. —Garvald Church. String Course. Norman structure which formerly existed. These are built into the walls of the church, which was restored and enlarged in 1829....

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GAMRIE CHURCH, Banffshire.

This church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, has a splendid situation, standing high above the cliffs overlooking the sea, and having a small fishing village on the beach immediately below. The building is now a ruin, only the walls remaining. It is a curious looking structure and Fig. 1544. —Gamrie Church. Plan. has been built at two periods. The east end is the earliest part. The total length of the church internally (Fig. 1544 ) is about 94 feet 4 inches by 15 feet 6 inches wide. The la

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GLADSMUIR CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

A ruin near the village of Longniddry. The parish of Gladsmuir was formed out of several other parishes in 1695, at which time this church (Fig. 1546 ), now in ruins, was erected. Fig. 1546. —Gladsmuir Church. It was an oblong structure, and measures about 71 feet long by 25 feet Fig. 1547. Gladsmuir Church. Sundial. 6 inches wide outside. There was, as frequently happens, an aisle on the north side about 24 feet square, opening into the church by the wide and lofty arch seen in the view. This a

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THE TRON STEEPLE, Glasgow.

This tower, with its spire, stands in the Trongate, the most crowded thoroughfare of the city of Glasgow, and, as will be seen (Fig. 1548 ), it projects on to the street. It is believed that it is in contemplation to remove it; and as the old college buildings were got rid of a few years ago without much regret being expressed, the removal of a small steeple like this will, doubtless, be regarded as a very simple matter. Yet its destruction will deprive us of a very interesting example of a genu

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GRANDTULLY CHAPEL, Perthshire.[238]

This chapel stands a little to the east of Grandtully Castle at a place called Pitcairn (anciently Petquharne), about three miles from Aberfeldy. It is situated at a considerable height above the valley of Strathtay, and commands an extensive view of mountain scenery. Any one seeing the chapel for the first time, and unacquainted with its existence, might easily mistake it for part of the adjoining farm buildings, it is so plain and humble in appearance. Only the presence of the churchyard surro

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GREENLAW CHURCH, Berwickshire.

This church, with its venerable tower, overlooks, in a very prominent manner, the small county town of Greenlaw. The present building occupies the site of an early church, and probably dates from the Fig. 1551. —Greenlaw Church. beginning of last century. It is a very simple structure, and harmonises well with the ancient tower. The latter (Fig. 1551 ), which is a part of an earlier church, is an interesting example of a Scottish church tower. It is quite plain in its lower stages, and has a cor

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INSCH CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

The town of Insch is a station on the Great North of Scotland Railway between Aberdeen and Huntly. The old parish church, which is Fig. 1552. —Insch Church. Front and Side View of Belfry. abandoned, stands in the churchyard. The west wall, crowned with its belfry, is almost all that now survives. The belfry (Fig. 1552 ) is ornate, and is a good specimen of the Scottish Renaissance designs erected in the beginning of the seventeenth century. It bears the date of 1613, when it is believed the chur

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KEMBACK CHURCH, Fifeshire.[239]

Situated at the entrance to Duraden, near Dairsie Railway Station, are the ivy-covered ruins of the sixteenth century church of Kemback, surrounded with its ancient burial-ground. The building (Fig. 1553 ) Fig. 1553. —Kemback Church. Plan. retains the Gothic feeling in the external splays on the square-headed doors and windows, but the Renaissance influence is apparent in the east window. Contrary to the usual practice, the door and windows are in the north wall. About half a mile distant the si

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THE GLENCAIRN MONUMENT, Kilmaurs, Ayrshire.

The Church of Kilmaurs, situated near the village of that name about two and a half miles north-west from Kilmarnock, was formerly collegiate, having a provost and six prebendaries. It has been rebuilt, and the Fig. 1554. —The Glencairn Monument, Kilmaurs. burial aisle of the Earls of Glencairn, which no doubt was formerly attached to it, now stands apart. The aisle was erected by the seventh Earl in 1600, and contains the fine monument (Fig. 1554 ) of William, ninth Earl, who was Lord High Chan

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KINNEIL CHURCH, Linlithgowshire.

The ruins of this old parish church are situated a few yards to the west of the ancient mansion house of Kinneil, near Bo’ness. The church Fig. 1555. —Kinneil Church. was abandoned about 1636, at which time a new one was built at Bo’ness, about one mile distant. What remains of the old church is the west wall, crowned with a double belfry (Fig. 1555 ), and the returns of the side walls. The end wall measures 26 feet wide outside, and is 3 feet 9 inches thick. The length of the church cannot now

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ST. BEAN’S CHURCH, Kinkell, Perthshire.

Situated on the right bank of the Earn about two miles south from Auchterarder, this church, which is a post-Reformation one, stands in the centre of a small churchyard on a hillock overlooking the river, and Fig. 1556. —St. Bean’s Church, Kinkell. is entire, but roofless (Fig. 1556 ). It is now divided by cross walls into three burial-places. The building (Fig. 1557 ) measures about 65 feet 2 inches in length by 23 feet wide externally. Like most of the early Presbyterian churches it has a cons

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MONUMENT IN KINNOULL CHURCH, Perthshire.

The old church of Kinnoull stood on the east side of the Tay opposite Perth. It may be said to have entirely disappeared with the exception of an aisle which was attached to the church, and now contains a seventeenth century monument to the Earl of Kinnoull (Fig. 1558 ). The monument is of a pompous kind, and inspires none of those feelings of reverence begotten by the monuments of the Middle Ages. It occupies the full width and height of the aisle, and has a high dado richly sculptured on the p

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KIRKOSWALD CHURCH, Ayrshire.

Kirkoswald is a village on the road between Girvan and Maybole in Carrick, containing an old church and churchyard. The church (Fig. 1559 ) is a simple oblong measuring about 93 feet 6 inches in length by 28 feet 4 inches in width over the walls. It seems originally to have consisted of plain walls without buttresses, but within modern times the Fig. 1559. —Kirkoswald Church. structure has been converted into a mausoleum by building up all the windows, and by adding buttresses along the south si

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LAUDER CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The small town of Lauder stands in the wide and fertile vale of the Leader Water, about six miles (over a high hill) from the nearest railway station at Stow. The ancient parish church of Lauder was bestowed, in the reign of David i., on Sir Hugh Morville, Constable of Scotland. It was afterwards given by Devorgilla, wife of John Baliol, to Dryburgh Abbey, to which it remained attached till the Reformation. It appears that there were two chapels connected with the parish church in different part

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LESWALT CHURCH,[243] Wigtonshire.

A ruined church, the predecessor of the present one, which was built early in this century. It stands about four miles west from Stranraer. All the dressed stones of the wall openings have been taken out, so that nothing remains to tell the date of the structure. In the seventeenth century a wing (Fig. 1562 ) has been erected against the north wall, which probably contained a gallery above and a burial-place below, as was frequently the case in similar erections about that time. The wall between

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ST. COLM’S CHURCH, Lonmay, Aberdeenshire.

Only the merest fragment of this church now remains. Its dimensions can be determined as having been 62 feet in length by 15 feet 3 inches wide inside. Part of the west gable survives for a height of about 10 or 12 feet, with a small square-headed window. Nothing else is left but grass-covered ruins and fallen pieces of masonry....

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LOUDOUN CHURCH, Galston, Ayrshire.[244]

This was originally a structure of the first pointed period, but it is now in a state of complete ruin, except the choir, which has been fitted up in the seventeenth century as a burial vault. The west gable stands nearly entire, but the side walls are completely demolished, except at the choir (Fig. 1566 ). The building is externally Fig. 1566. —Loudoun Church. Plan. 64 feet long by 27 feet wide. The choir is about 14 feet 9 inches long, and is separated from the nave by a plain round arch 15 f

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LYNE CHURCH, Peeblesshire.

This building, which is still used as the parish church, is situated on the Lyne Water, near the Tweed, about three miles above Peebles. It stands on the summit of a mound, which is occupied as the churchyard. Fig. 1571. —Lyne Church. Plan. The building (Fig. 1571 ) is a tiny one, measuring internally only about 34 feet by 11 feet. The windows and doorway are on the Fig. 1572. —Lyne Church. View from South-East. south side (Fig. 1572 ) and in each gable, there being no opening in the north wall.

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MORHAM CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

A retired parish church about four miles east from Haddington. It is stated to have been built in 1724, but some portions of ornamental carving built into the south wall (Fig. 1574 ) would seem to indicate that they had formed part of an earlier structure. Fig. 1574. —Morham Church. Fragment built into South Wall. The only architectural feature connected with the church is the elevation of the north wing or aisle (Fig. 1575 ), which, although it corresponds well with the date of the building, is

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CHURCH OF ST. FIACRE OR FITTACK, Nigg, Kincardineshire.

A ruined church standing in the centre of an ancient churchyard, situated about three miles south-east from Aberdeen. The church is probably one of those built during the short period of Episcopal government in the seventeenth century. It consists (Fig. 1576 ) of a single chamber, but there are indications of an arch across from side to side, where shown by dotted lines on the Plan, which may have marked a chancel. The building is 48 feet 6 inches in length by 20 feet 6 inches in width internall

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OLDHAMSTOCKS CHURCH, Berwickshire.

The main portion of this church, although its walls may in part be old, is not of much architectural merit, but the chancel (Fig. 1578 ) is not without interest as a specimen of late Gothic work. It is now used as a burial vault, and is completely ivy clad. It measures about 18 or 20 feet square, and is of modest height, being some 10 or 12 feet to the eaves. The chief feature is the east window, with its rude tracery. The latter, which is of a different stone from the jambs and sills, is probab

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ORMISTON CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

Only a small portion of the old church of Ormiston, in which Wishart and Knox more than once officiated, has been preserved. It stands close to the mansion house of Ormiston Hall, about one mile south from the village of Ormiston. A new church having been erected about a quarter of a mile distant, the old church has been allowed to go to decay. The surviving fragment of the latter appears to have been the east end. There are several stones built into the walls which must have belonged to a Norma

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PITTENWEEM PRIORY, Fifeshire.

Of the old monastery of Pittenweem, which was connected with that on the Isle of May in the Frith of Forth, only some altered fragments survive. The priory seems to have derived its name from its being built close to a cave or “weem” on the shore of the Frith of Forth, with which it had communication by a vaulted chamber in the garden and a long straight staircase. The monastic buildings surrounded a courtyard. On the south side was the prior’s mansion (now restored and occupied by the Episcopal

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POLWARTH CHURCH, Berwickshire.[254]

This church (Fig. 1584 ) was reconstructed in 1703, and is believed to rest on the foundations of an older structure, dedicated by Bishop Bernham in 1242. The building measures 55 feet by 24 feet over the walls. Although of such a late date, it is of pleasing form, and has fine large mouldings round the doors and panels above them. A stone on the east gable contains the Polwarth arms, three piles engrailed. The font of the old church stands outside the building. It is of a round form 28 inches i

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HERALDIC PANEL FROM PRESTONPANS CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.[255]

This panel (Fig. 1585 ) was discovered in 1891 during some alterations of the seating of the church. It then formed the back of a seat in the gallery, and was concealed by a green cloth. Doubtless, from its heraldic decorations, it must originally have occupied a more prominent position. The arms and initials show that it belonged to the Hamiltons of Preston. The date on the panel (1604) connects it with an earlier church, the present church having been erected later. The panel is of oak and in

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RATHAN CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

A ruinous building situated about three miles south from Fraserburgh, and standing in an old churchyard. The east end has entirely disappeared, and only a small part of the north wall remains (Fig. 1586 ). What Fig. 1586. —Rathan Church. Plan. survives of the south wall of the nave is 49 feet long, but it doubtless considerably exceeded that length; the interior width is 21 feet. A south aisle is entire, but roofless. It enters from the nave by a plain round-arched opening (Fig. 1587 ) 8 feet 8

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SOUTHANNAN CHAPEL AND CASTLE, West Kilbride, Ayrshire.

About one mile south from the railway station of Fairlie, on the level ground facing the sea, and with its back close to the railway, stands the ruin of Southannan Castle. It has been an extensive structure (Fig. 1591 ), having had a high enclosing wall, with a courtyard and an arched entrance porch to the west, defended with shot-holes (Fig. 1592 ). There Fig. 1591. —Southannan Chapel and Castle. Plan. has been a considerable range of dwelling-house accommodation, two stories in height, along t

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STENTON CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

The village of Stenton is situated about three and a half miles south-east from East Linton Railway Station. The church (Fig. 1594 ), which, with the exception of the tower and the entrance doorway, is a total ruin (Fig. 1595 ), extends for a length of about 65 feet, but as the east end is Fig. 1594. —Stenton Church. Plan. entirely gone, it is impossible to say how much longer it was. The width of the building within the walls is about 18 feet. The doorway (Fig. 1596 ), which is on the south sid

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STOW CHURCH, Mid-Lothian.

The village of Stow is situated on the Gala Water, in the southern part of Mid-Lothian, near the borders of Roxburghshire and Peeblesshire. The parish was originally called Wedale, and the church belonged to the Bishop of St. Andrews, who had a residence there. Hence the village was known as the Stow of Wedale. Fig. 1599. —Stow Church. Plan. The original Church of St. Mary was at a distance from the village, but the existing ruin, which is partly of some antiquity, stands in the ancient churchya

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TERREGLES CHURCH, Kirkcudbrightshire.

This curious structure (Fig. 1602 ) is situated about two and a-half miles north-west from Dumfries. It was erected by the fourth Lord Herries shortly before his death in 1583. A few years ago this “queir” or choir was completely restored, and the buttresses were then added. Omitting these it may be regarded as a fair example of the quaint architecture of James VI. ’s time, when the revival of Gothic was attempted, along with the revival of Episcopacy. FINIALS ON CORNERS OF CHANCEL AGNES LADY HE

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TURRIFF CHURCH, Aberdeenshire.

This ancient church, which was dedicated to St. Congan, is a very old foundation, having probably been established, in the seventh century, by a follower of St. Columba. It received donations at various early dates, amongst others one by King Robert the Bruce. In 1272 it was attached by the Earl of Buchan to an almshouse for thirteen poor husbandmen. The church was 120 feet long by 18 feet wide, but is now reduced to the fragment of the choir, crowned with the picturesque belfry shown by the ske

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WALSTON CHURCH, Lanarkshire.

The parish church of Walston stands on a height overlooking the vale of the river Medwin, about two miles west from Dolphinton. Till near the end of the thirteenth century the Church of Walston was a lay rectory in the gift of the Lord of the Manor. It is specially referred to in an award of 1293. [261] The edifice stands in an ancient churchyard, and not far from what was formerly a mansion known as the “Place of Walston.” Fig. 1607. —Walston Church. Plan. The existing church (Fig. 1607 ) stand

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YESTER CHURCH, Haddingtonshire.

The parish church of Yester stands at the north end of the village of Gifford, about four and a half miles south of Haddington. The Fig. 1613. —Gifford Tower, from South-West. ancient church of Yester has already been described. It was superseded last century by the present structure, which is a plain oblong chamber of the usual style of the period, but with a tower on the south side (Fig. 1613 ), which is a good example of that class of erection at the period....

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NOTE.

The illustration or tailpiece on the following page shows a remarkable specimen of early Scottish sculpture, preserved in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in Edinburgh. The stone, which is about 6 feet in length, was found in the River May, Perthshire, and is supposed to have come from an ancient church which formerly occupied a site within a rath or stronghold which stood on the Holy Hill, on the bank of the river, near Forteviot, about two miles from Forgandenny. [265] The

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APPENDIX.

The following is a statement by Mr. W. Galloway in defence of his views regarding the date of the walls of St. Blane’s Church, Bute: [268] — “Objections are taken in the notice of St. Blane’s Chapel, Bute (Vol. I. p. 297), to the views advanced by me in the Archæologia Scotica (Vol. V. p. 217) as to the priority in date and construction of the rubble part of the chancel, over the Romanesque structure conjoined with it. These are specially summarised under three heads, in the first of which excep

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