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A THOUSAND MILES in the ROB ROY CANOE
A THOUSAND MILES in the ROB ROY CANOE
ON RIVERS AND LAKES OF EUROPE. BY J. MACGREGOR, M.A., TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE; BARRISTER AT LAW: With Numerous Illustrations and a Map. SIXTH THOUSAND. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MARSTON MILTON HOUSE, LUDGATE-HILL. 1866. ( The Right of Translation reserved. )...
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The voyage about to be described was made last Autumn in a small Canoe, with a double paddle and sails, which the writer managed alone. The route led sometimes over mountains and through forests and plains, where the boat had to be carried or dragged. The waters navigated were as follows:— The Rivers Thames, Sambre, Meuse, Rhine, Main, Danube, Reuss, Aar, Ill, Moselle, Meurthe, Marne, and Seine. The Lakes Titisee, Constance, Unter See, Zurich, Zug, and Lucerne, together with six canals in Belgiu
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Canoe Travelling—Other Modes—The Rob Roy—Hints—Tourists—The Rivers—The Dress—I and We—The Election. The object of this book is to describe a new mode of travelling on the Continent, by which new people and things are met with, while healthy exercise is enjoyed, and an interest ever varied with excitement keeps fully alert the energies of the mind. Some years ago the Water Lily was rowed by four men on the Rhine and on the Danube, and its "log" delighted all readers. Afterwards, the boat Water Wi
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
THE START. The Thames—The Cornwall—Porpoises—A Gale—The Channel—Ostend Canal—The Meuse—Earl of Aberdeen—Holland—The Rhine—The Premier's Son—The River Main—Heron stalking—The Prince of Wales. The Rob Roy bounded away joyously on the top of the tide through Westminster Bridge, and swiftly shooting the narrow piles at Blackfriars, danced along the waves of the Pool, which looked all golden in the morning sun, but were in fact of veritable pea-soup hue. A fine breeze at Greenwich enabled me to set t
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Höllenthal Pass—Ladies—Black Forest—Night Music—Beds—Lake Titisee—Pontius Pilate—Storm—Starers—Singers—Source of the Danube. Planning your summer tour is one of the most agreeable of occupations. It is in June or July that the Foreign Bradshaw becomes suddenly of intense interest, and the well-known pages of "Steamers and Railways"—why, it is worth while being a bachelor to be able to read each of these as part of your sketched-out plan, and (oh, selfish thought!) to have only one mind to consul
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
The Danube—Singers—Shady nooks—Geisingen—Mill weirs—Rapids—Morning Crowd—Donkey's stable—Islands—Monks—Spiders—Concert—Fish—A race. At first the river is a few feet broad, but it soon enlarges, and the streams of a great plain quickly bring its volume to that of the Thames at Kingston. The quiet, dark Donau winds about then in slow serpentine smoothness for hours in a level mead, with waving sedge on the banks and silken sleepy weeds in the water. Here the long-necked, long-winged, long-legged h
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Sigmaringen—Treacherous trees—Congress of herons—Flying Dutchman—Tub and shovel—Bottle race—Snags—Bridge perils—Ya Vol—Ferry rope—Benighted. The sides of the river were now less precipitous, and the road came within a field or two of the water, and made it seem quite homely for a time. I had heard a loud jingling sound on this road for at least half-an-hour, and observed a long cart with two horses trotting fast, and evidently daring to race with the Rob Roy. But at length such earnest signals w
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Day-dream—River Iller—Ulm—A stiff king—Lake Constance—Seeing in the dark—Switzerland—Coloured Canvas—Sign talk—Synagogue—Amelia—Gibberish. The threatening rain had not come during the night, and it was a lovely morning next day, like all the rest before and after it; and as we were leaving this place I found it was called Gegglingen, [XV.] and was only nine miles from Ulm. The lofty tower of the Cathedral of this town soon came in view, but I noticed it without any pleasure, for this was to end
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Fog—Fancy pictures—Boy soldiers—Boat's billet—Eating—Lake Zurich—Crinoline—Hot walk—Staring—Lake Zug—Swiss shots—Fishing Britons—Talk-book. In the morning there was a most curious change of air; all around was in a dense white fog. Truly it was now to be "sensation rowing;" so we hastened to get off into this milky atmosphere. I have an idea that we passed under a bridge; at least the usual cheers sounded this time as if they were above me, but the mist was as thick as our best November Cheshire
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Sailing on Lucerne—Seeburg—River scenes—Night and snow—The Reuss—A dear dinner—Seeing a rope—Passing a fall—Bremgarten rapids. When the steamer at Imyn had embarked the three sportsmen, and the little pier was quiet, we got a cart out for the Rob Roy, and bargained to have it rumbled over the hill to the Lake of Lucerne for the sum of five francs—it is only half-an-hour's walk. The landlord himself came as driver, for he was fully interested about the canoe, and he did not omit to let people kno
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Hunger—Music at the mill—Sentiment and chops—River Limmat—Fixed on a fall—On the river Aar—The Rhine again—Douaniers—Falls of Lauffenburg—The cow cart. The wetting and excitement of yesterday made me rather stiff in beginning again; and anon, when a rushing sound was heard in front I was aware of a new anxiety as to whether this might not mean the same sort of rough work as yesterday's over again, whereas hitherto this sound of breakers to come had always promised nothing but pleasure. However,
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Field of Foam—Precipice—Puzzled—Philosophy—Rheinfelden Rapids—Dazzled—Astride—Fate of the Four-oar—Very Salt—The Ladies—Whirlpool—Funny English—A baby—The bride. The canoe was now fixed on a hand-cart and dragged once more through the streets to a point below the falls, and the Rob Roy became very lively on the water after its few hours of rest. All was brilliant around, and deep underneath, and azure above, and happy within, till the dull distant sound of breakers began and got louder, and at l
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Private concert—Thunderer—La Hardt Forest—Mulhouse Canal—River Ill—Reading stories—Madame Nico—Night noises—Pets—Ducking—Vosges—Admirers—Boat on wheels—New wine. Bâle is, in every sense, a turning-point on the Rhine. The course of the river here bends abruptly from west to north, and the character of the scenery beside it alters at once from high sloping banks to a widespread network of streams, all entangled in countless islands, and yet ever tending forward, northward, seaward through the grea
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Bonfire—My wife—Matthews—Tunnel picture—Imposture—Fancy—Moselle—Cocher—"Saturday Review" Tracts—Gymnastics—The paddle—A spell—Overhead—Feminine forum—Public breakfast. As evening came on the little flag of the Rob Roy, which was always hoisted, even in a cart, showed signs of animation, being now revived by a fresh breeze from the beautiful Vosges mountains when we gradually brought their outline more distinctly near. Then we had to cross the river Thur, but that was an easy matter in these scor
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
River Moselle—Epinal—The Tramp—Halcyon—Painted woman—Beating to quarters—Boat in a hedge—The Meurthe—Moving House—Tears of a mother—Five francs. Under a dark arbour-like arch of foliage, where the water was deep and still, I made fast to the long grass, cast my tired limbs into the fantastic folds of ease, and, while the bottle lasted and the bread, I watched the bees and butterflies, and the beetles and rats, and the coloured tribes of airy and watery life that one can see so well in a quiet ha
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Ladies in muslin—Officers shouting—Volunteers' umbrella—Reims—Leaks—Wet—Madame Clicquot—Heavy blow—Dinner talk—The Elephant—Cloud. The canal brought me to Nancy, a fine old town, with an archbishop, a field-marshal, a good hotel, large washhand basins, drums, bugles, ices, and all the other luxuries of life. In the cathedral there was more tawdry show about the Mass than I ever remarked before, even in Italy. At least thirty celebrants acted in the performance, and the bowings and turnings and g
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Meaux on the Marne—Hammering—Popish forms—Wise dogs—Blocked in a tunnel—A dry voyage—Arbour and garret—Odd fellows—Dream on the Seine—Almost over—No admittance—Charing-cross. There are three hemispheres of scenery visible to the traveller who voyages thus in a boat on the rivers. First, the great arch of sky, and land, and trees, and flowers down to the water's brink; then the whole of this reflected beautifully in the surface of the river; and then the wondrous depths in the water itself, with
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GOSSIP ASHORE ABOUT THINGS AFLOAT.
GOSSIP ASHORE ABOUT THINGS AFLOAT.
Those who intend to make a river voyage on the Continent—and several canoes are preparing for this purpose—will probably feel interested in some of the following information, while other readers of these pages may be indulgent enough to excuse the relation of a few particulars and technical details. It is proposed, then, to give, first, a description of the canoe considered to be most suitable for a voyage of this sort after experience has aided in modifying the dimensions of the boat already us
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LIST OF STORES ON BOARD THE ROB ROY.
LIST OF STORES ON BOARD THE ROB ROY.
1. Useful Stores. —Paddle, painter (31 feet at first, but cut down to 20 feet), sponge, waterproof cover, 5 feet by 2 feet 3 inches, silk blue union jack, 10 inches by 8 inches, on a staff 2 feet long. Mast, boom, and yard. Lug sail, jib, and spare jib (used as a sun shawl). Stretcher, two back boards, floor boards, basket to sit on (12 inches by 6 inches, by 1 inch deep), and holding a macintosh coat. For repairs—iron and brass screws, sheet copper and copper nails, putty and whitelead, a gimle
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ROCKS AND CURRENTS.
ROCKS AND CURRENTS.
A few remarks may now be made upon the principal cases in which rocks and currents have to be dealt with by the canoist. Even if a set of rules could be laid down for the management of a boat in the difficult parts of a river, it would not be made easier until practice has given the boatman that quick judgment as to their application which has to be patiently acquired in this and other athletic exercises, such as riding or skating, and even in walking. The canoist, who passes many hours every da
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A List of SAMPSON LOW & CO.'S NEW WORKS.
A List of SAMPSON LOW & CO.'S NEW WORKS.
A BIOGRAPHY of ADMIRAL SIR B.P.V. BROKE, Bart., K.C.B. By the Rev. John G. Brighton , Rector of Kent Town. Dedicated by express permission to His Royal Highness Prince Alfred. 8vo., price 20 s. THE GREAT SCHOOLS of ENGLAND. A History of the Foundation, Endowments, and Discipline of the chief Seminaries of Learning in England; including Eton, Winchester, Westminster, St. Paul's, Charterhouse, Merchant Taylors', Harrow, Rugby, Shrewsbury, &c.; with notices of distinguished Scholars. By How
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NEW ILLUSTRATED WORKS.
NEW ILLUSTRATED WORKS.
T HE GREAT SCHOOLS OF ENGLAND. A History of the Foundation, Endowments, and Discipline of the chief Seminaries of Learning in England; including Eton, Winchester, Westminster, St. Paul's, Charterhouse, Merchant Taylors', Harrow, Rugby, Shrewsbury, &c; with notices of distinguished Scholars. By Howard Staunton, Esq. With numerous Illustrations. One volume 8vo., handsomely bound in cloth, price 12 s. " The book is as full of solid matter as of gossiping narrative and pleasant anecdote. As
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LITERATURE, WORKS OF REFERENCE, AND EDUCATION.
LITERATURE, WORKS OF REFERENCE, AND EDUCATION.
T HE English Catalogue of Books: giving the date of publication of every book published from 1835 to 1863, in addition to the title, size, price, and publisher, in one alphabet. An entirely new work, combining the Copyrights of the "London Catalogue" and the "British Catalogue." One thick volume of 900 pages, half morocco, 45 s. Like unto Christ. A new translation of the De Imitatione Christi, usually ascribed to Thomas à Kempis—forming a volume of The Gentle Life Series. Small post 8vo. 6 s. Th
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NEW BOOKS FOR YOUNG PEOPLE.
NEW BOOKS FOR YOUNG PEOPLE.
T HE GREAT FUN TOY BOOKS: a Series of Eight New One Shilling Story Books for Young People. By Thomas Hood and Thomas Archer. Each illustrated by Six of Edward Wehnert's well-known Great Fun Pictures. Printed in colours, with an appropriate Cover by Charles Bennett. The Frog's Parish Clerk; and his Adventures in strange Lands. A Tale for young folk. By Thomas Archer. Numerous Illustrations. Small post 8vo. 5 s. Choice Editions of Children's Fairy Tales. Each illustrated with highly-finished Colou
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HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
T he Conspiracy of Count Fieschi: an Episode in Italian History. By M. De Celesia. Translated by David Hilton, Esq., Author of a "History of Brigandage." With Portrait. 8vo. [ Shortly. A Biography of Admiral Sir B. P. V. Broke, Bart., K.C.B. By the Rev. John Brighton, Rector of Kent Town. Dedicated by express permission to His Royal Highness Prince Alfred. A History of Brigandage in Italy; with Adventures of the more celebrated Brigands. By David Hilton, Esq. 2 vols, post 8vo. cloth, 16 s. A His
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TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.
TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.
A Walk from London to the Land's End. By Elihu Burritt, Author of "A Walk from London to John O'Groats:" with several Illustrations. Large post 8vo. Uniform with the first edition of "John O'Groats." 12 s. A Walk from London to John O'Groats. With Notes by the Way. By Elihu Burritt. Second and cheaper edition. With Photographic Portrait of the Author. Small post 8vo. 6 s. Social Life of the Chinese: with some account of their religious, governmental, educational, and Business customs and opinion
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INDIA, AMERICA, AND THE COLONIES.
INDIA, AMERICA, AND THE COLONIES.
A History of the Discovery and Exploration of Australia; or an Account of the Progress of Geographical Discovery in that Continent, from the Earliest Period to the Present Day. By the Rev. Julian E. Tenison Woods, F.R.G.S., &c., &c. 2 vols, demy 8vo. cloth, 28 s. The Confederation of the British North American Provinces; their past History and future Prospects; with a map, &c. By Thomas Rawlings. 8vo. cloth, 5 s. Canada in 1864; a Hand-book for Settlers. By Henry T. N. Ch
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SCIENCE AND DISCOVERY.
SCIENCE AND DISCOVERY.
A Dictionary of Photography, on the Basis of Sutton's Dictionary. Rewritten by Professor Dawson, of King's College, Editor of the "Journal of Photography;" and Thomas Sutton, B.A., Editor of "Photograph Notes." 8vo. with numerous Illustrations. [ Shortly. The Physical Geography of the Sea and its Meteorology; or, the Economy of the Sea and its Adaptations, its Salts, its Waters, its Climates, its Inhabitants, and whatever there may be of general interest in its Commercial Uses or Industrial Purs
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TRADE, AGRICULTURE, DOMESTIC ECONOMY, ETC.
TRADE, AGRICULTURE, DOMESTIC ECONOMY, ETC.
R ailway Practice, European and American; comprising the economical generation of Steam, the adaptation of Wood and Coke-burning Engines to Coal Burning, and in Permanent Way, including Road-bed, Sleepers, Rails, Joint-fastenings, Street Railways, &c. By Alexander L. Holley, Joint Author of Colburn and Holley's "Permanent Way," &c. Demy folio, with 77 Engravings, half-morocco. 3 l. 3 s. Hunt's Merchants' Magazine (Monthly). 2 s. 6 d. The Book of Farm Implements, and their Constru
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THEOLOGY.
THEOLOGY.
T he Land and the Book, or Biblical Illustrations drawn from the Manners and Customs, the Scenes and the Scenery of the Holy Land, by W. M. Thomson, M.D., twenty-five years a Missionary in Syria and Palestine. With 3 Maps and several hundred Illustrations. 2 vols. Post 8vo. cloth. 1 l. 1 s. Missionary Geography for the use of Teachers and Missionary Collectors. Fcap. 8vo. with numerous maps and illustrations, 3 s. 6 d. A Topographical Picture of Ancient Jerusalem; beautifully coloured. Nine feet
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LAW AND JURISPRUDENCE.
LAW AND JURISPRUDENCE.
W heaton's Elements of International Law; with a New Supplement to May 1863: comprising Important Decisions of the Supreme Court of the United States of America, settling authoritatively the character of the hostilities in which they are involved, and the legal consequences to be deduced from them. Royal 8vo. cloth extra, 35 s. History of the Law of Nations; by Henry Wheaton, LL.D. author of the "Elements of International Law." Roy. 8vo. cloth, 31 s. 6 d. Commentaries on American Law; by Chancel
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MEDICAL.
MEDICAL.
H uman Physiology, Statical and Dynamical; by Dr. Draper. 300 Illustrations. 8vo. 25 s. A Treatise on the Practice of Medicine; by Dr. George B. Wood. Fourth Edition. 2 vols. 36 s. A Treatise on Fractures, by J. F. Malgaigne, Chirurgien de l'Hôpital Saint Louis, Translated, with Notes and Additions, by John H. Packard, M.D. With 106 Illustrations. 8vo. sheep. 1 l. 1 s. The History of Prostitution; its Extent, Causes, and Effects throughout the World: by William Sanger, M.D. 8vo. cloth. 16 s. Ele
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FICTION AND MISCELLANEOUS.
FICTION AND MISCELLANEOUS.
M r. Charles Reade's celebrated Romance, Hard Cash. A new and cheap Standard Edition. Price 6 s. handsomely bound in cloth. " There is a freshness and reality about his young people, and a degree of warmth and zest in the love-making of these impetuosities, which make the first chapter of his book most enjoyable reading. The description of the boat-race at Henley is beyond anything of the kind we have ever seen in print, and the repulse of the two pirates by the old Agra is a perfect masterpiece
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