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38 chapters
Preface
Preface
The general plan of this book is not original. It tells of some experiences not altogether new, and contains observations and facts that have been noted by other writers; but the author hopes that, from the viewpoint of an automobilist at least, its novelty will serve as a recommendation. As a pastime automobile touring is still new and is not yet accomplished without some considerable annoyance and friction. The conventional guides are of little assistance; and the more descriptive works on tra
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Chapter I An Appreciation of the Automobile
Chapter I An Appreciation of the Automobile
We have progressed appreciably beyond the days of the old horseless carriage, which, it will be remembered, retained even the dashboard. To-day the modern automobile somewhat resembles, in its outlines, across between a decapod locomotive and a steam fire-engine, or at least something concerning the artistic appearance of which the layman has very grave doubts. The control of a restive horse, a cranky boat, or even a trolley-car on rails is difficult enough for the inexperienced, and there are m
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Chapter II Travel Talk
Chapter II Travel Talk
Touring abroad is nothing new, but, as an amusement for the masses, it has reached gigantic proportions. The introduction of the railroad gave it its greatest impetus, and then came the bicycle and the automobile. With the railway as the sole means of getting about one was more or less confined to the beaten track of travel in Continental Europe, but the automobile has changed all this. To-day, the Cote d'Azur, from St. Raphael to Menton, as well as the strip of Norman coast-line around Trouvill
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Chapter III Roads & Routes
Chapter III Roads & Routes
The chief concern of the automobilist to-day, after his individual automobile, is the road question, the "Good Roads Question," as it has become generally known. In a new country, like America, it is to be expected that great connecting highways should be mostly in the making. It is to be regretted that the development should be so slow, but things have been improving in the last decade, and perhaps America will "beat the world" in this respect, as she has in many others, before many future gene
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Chapter IV Hotels & Things
Chapter IV Hotels & Things
In all the literature of travel, that which is devoted to hotels has been conspicuously neglected. Certainly a most interesting work could be compiled. Among the primitive peoples travellers were dependent upon the hospitality of those among whom they came. After this arose a species of hostelry, which catered for man and beast in a more or less crude and uncomfortable manner; but which, nevertheless, was a great deal better than depending upon the generosity and hospitality of strangers, and va
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Chapter V The Grand Tour
Chapter V The Grand Tour
The advantages of touring by automobile are many: to see the country, to travel agreeably, to be independent of railways, and to be an opportunist—that is to say to be able to fly off at a tangent of fifty or a hundred kilometres at a moment's notice, in order to take in some fête or fair, or celebration or pilgrimage. " Le tourisme en automobile " is growing all over the world, but after all it is generally only in or near the great cities and towns that one meets an automobile on the road. The
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Chapter I Down Through Touraine: Paris To Bordeaux
Chapter I Down Through Touraine: Paris To Bordeaux
As old residents of Paris we, like other automobilists, had come to dread the twenty-five or thirty kilometres which lead from town out through Choisy-le-Roi and Villeneuve St. Georges, at which point the road begins to improve, and the execrable suburban Paris pavement, second to nothing for real vileness, except that of Belgium, is practically left behind, all but occasional bits through the towns. At any rate, since our automobile horse was eating his head off in the garage at St. Germain, we
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Chapter II A Little Tour In The Pyrenees
Chapter II A Little Tour In The Pyrenees
We had been touring France en automobile for many months—for business purposes, one might say, and hence had followed no schedule or itinerary, but had lingered by the way and made notes, and the artist made sketches, and in general we acquired a knowledge of France and things French that otherwise might not have been our lot. The mere name of the Pyrenees had long had a magic sound for us. We had seen them at a distance, from Carcassonne and Toulouse and Pau, when we had made the conventional t
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Chapter III In Languedoc And Old Provence
Chapter III In Languedoc And Old Provence
The dim purple curtain of the Pyrenees had been drawn behind, us, and we were passing from the patois of Languedoc to the patois of Provence, where the peasants say pardie in place of pardou when an exclamation of surprise comes from their lips. Cast your eyes over the map of ancient France, and you will distinguish plainly the lines of demarcation between the old political divisions which, in truth, the traveller by road may find to exist even to-day, in the manners and customs of the people at
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Chapter IV By Rhône And Saône
Chapter IV By Rhône And Saône
It is the dream of the Marseillais that some day the turgid Rhône may be made to empty itself at the foot of the famous Cannebière, and so add to the already great prosperity of the most cosmopolitan and picturesque of Mediterranean ports. The idea has been thought of since Roman times, and Napoleon himself nearly undertook the work. In later days radical and vehement candidates for senatorships and deputyships have promised their Marseilles and Bouches-du-Rhône constituencies much more, with re
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Chapter V By Seine And Oise—A Cruise In A Canot-Automobile
Chapter V By Seine And Oise—A Cruise In A Canot-Automobile
If automobiling on land in France is a pleasure, a voyage up a picturesque and historic French river in a canot-automobile is a dream, so at least we thought, four of us—and a boy to clean the engine, run errands, and to climb overboard and push us off when we got stuck in the mud. Our "home port" was Les Andelys on the Seine, and we meet in the courtyard of the Hôtel Bellevue at five o'clock one misty, gray September morning for a fortnight's voyage up the Oise, which joins the Seine midway bet
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Chapter VI The Road To The North
Chapter VI The Road To The North
We left Paris by the ghastly route leading out through the plain of Gennevilliers, where Paris empties her sewage and grows asparagus, passing St. Denis and its royal catacombs of the ancient abbey, and so on to Pontoise, all over as vile a stretch of road as one will find in the north of France, always excepting the suburbs of St. Germain. Pontoise is all very well in its way, and is by no means a dull, uninteresting town, but we had no thoughts for it at the moment; indeed, we had no thoughts
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Chapter I The Bath Road
Chapter I The Bath Road
The Bath Road is in many ways the most famed main road out of London. Visions as varied as those of highwaymen on Hounslow Heath, boating at Maidenhead, the days of the "dandies" at Bath, and of John Cabot at Bristol flashed through our minds whenever we heard the Bath road mentioned, so we set out with a good-will on the hundred and eighteen mile journey to Bath. To-day the road's designation is the same as of yore, though Palmer's coaches, that in 1784 left London at eight in the morning and a
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Chapter II The South Coast
Chapter II The South Coast
The south coast of England is ever dear to the Londoner who spends his week's end out of town. Here he finds the nearest whiff of salt-water breeze that he can call his own. He may go down the Thames on a Palace steamer to Southend, and he will have to content himself most of the way with a succession of mud-flats and eat winkles with a brassy pin when he gets there; he may even go on to Margate and find a fresh east wind which will blow the London fog out of his brain; but, until he rounds the
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Chapter III Land's End To John O'Groats
Chapter III Land's End To John O'Groats
We had already done a bit of conventional touring in England, and we thought we knew quite all of the charms and fascinations of the idyllic countryside of most of Britain, not omitting even Ireland. The cathedral towns had appealed to us in our youthful days, and we had rediscovered a good portion of Dickens's England on another occasion, had lived for a fortnight on a house-boat on the Thames, and had cruised for ten days on the Norfolk Broads, and besides had played golf in Scotland, and atte
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Chapter I On The Road In Flanders
Chapter I On The Road In Flanders
There has been a noticeable falling off in touring in Belgium. There is no reason for this except the caprice of fashion, and the automobile and its popularizing influence will soon change all this, in spite of the abominable stretches of paved highroads, which here and there and everywhere, and most unexpectedly, crop up and shake one almost to pieces, besides working dire disaster to the mechanical parts of one's automobile. The authorities are improving things, but it will be some time yet be
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Chapter II By Dykes And Windmills
Chapter II By Dykes And Windmills
Holland for automobilists is a land of one hill and miles and miles of brick-paved roads, so well laid with tiny bricks, and so straight and so level that it is almost an automobilist's paradise. We had come from Belgium to Holland, from Antwerp to Breda, a little short of fifty kilometres, to make a round of Dutch towns by automobile, as we had done in the old days by the humble bicycle. Custom-house regulations are not onerous in Holland. The law says you must pay five per cent. duty on enteri
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Chapter III On The Road By The Rhine
Chapter III On The Road By The Rhine
We had followed along the lower reaches of the Rhine, through the little land of dykes and windmills, when the idea occurred to us: why not make the Rhine tour en automobile ? This, perhaps, was no new and unheard-of thing, but the Rhine tour is classic and should not be left out of any one's travelling education, even if it is old-fashioned. At Nymegen we saw the last of Holland and soon crossed the frontier. There were no restrictions then in force against the entrance of foreign automobiles,
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A SHORT ACCOUNT OF SOME FAMOUS EUROPEAN ROAD RACES AND TRIALS
A SHORT ACCOUNT OF SOME FAMOUS EUROPEAN ROAD RACES AND TRIALS
In December, 1893, Le Petit Journal of Paris proposed a trial of self-propelled road-vehicles, to end with a run from Paris to Rouen. The distance was 133 kilometres and the first car to arrive at Rouen was a steam-tractor built by De Dion, Bouton et Cie, to-day perhaps the largest manufacturers of the ordinary gasoline-motor. A Peugot carriage, fitted with a Daimler engine, followed next, and then a Panhard. There were something like a hundred entries for this trial, of which one was from Engla
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THE TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE
THE TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE
The Touring Club de France is the largest and most active national association for the promotion of touring. It is under the direct patronage of the President of the French Republic, and the interests and wants of its members are protected and provided for in a full and practical manner by an excellent organization, whose influence is felt in every part of France and the adjacent countries. The membership is over 100,000 and is steadily growing. It includes a very considerable body of foreign me
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MOTOR-CAR REGULATIONS AND CUSTOMS DUTIES IN EUROPE GREAT BRITAIN
MOTOR-CAR REGULATIONS AND CUSTOMS DUTIES IN EUROPE GREAT BRITAIN
Certain regulations are compulsory even for tourists. You may obtain a license to drive a motor-car in Britain if you are over seventeen years of age (renewable every twelve months) at a cost of five shillings. You must register your motor-car at the County or Borough Council offices where you reside, fee £1.0.0. You must pay a yearly "male servant" tax of fifteen shillings for your chauffeur. In case of accident, en route, you must stop and, if required, give your name and address, also name an
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FRANCE
FRANCE
CERTIFICAT DE CAPACITÉ AND RÉCÉPISSÉ DE DÉCLARATION Before taking an automobile upon the road in France all drivers must procure the Certificat de Capacité, commonly known as the "Carte Rouge." The following letter should be addressed to the nearest préfecture, or sous-préfecture, written on stamped paper (papier timbré, 60 centimes) and accompanied by two miniature photographs. "Monsieur:—J'ai l'honneur de vous demander de me faire convoquer pour subir l'examen nécessaire à l'obtention d'un cer
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BELGIUM
BELGIUM
Customs Dues. 12 1/2 per cent. ad valorem (owners' declaration as to value), but the authorities reserve the right to purchase at owners valuation if they think it undervalued. This is supposed to prevent fraud, and no doubt it does. A driving certificate is not required of tourists, but a registered number must be carried. Plates and a permit are supplied at the frontier station by which one enters, or they may be obtained at Brussels from the chef de police. Speed limit: 30 kilometres per hour
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HOLLAND
HOLLAND
Customs Dues are five per cent, ad valorem, but in practice nothing is demanded of genuine tourists and a permit is now given (1906) for eight days with a right of extension for a similar period. Foreign number plates, once recorded by the Dutch customs officials, will supplant the need of local number plates....
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SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
Customs Dues are 60 francs per 100 kilos. This amount, deposited on entering the country, will be refunded upon leaving and complying with the formalities. Legally a driving and "circulation" permit may be demanded, but often this is waived. In the Canton Valais only the main road from St. Maurice to Brigue is open for automobile traffic. Many other roads are entirely closed. N.B. Traffic regulations in many parts are exceedingly onerous and often unfair to foreigners. A recent conference of the
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ITALY
ITALY
Customs Dues are according to weight. A certificate for importation temporaire is given by the customs officers on entering, and the same must be given up on leaving the country, when the sum deposited will be reimbursed. Since January 8, 1905, a driving certificate is compulsory, but the authorities will issue same readily to tourists against foreign certificates or licenses. Speed during the day must be limited to 40 kilometres an hour in the open country and 12 kilometres in the towns. At nig
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LUXEMBOURG
LUXEMBOURG
Customs Dues.—One hundred and fifty marks per automobile. A pièce d'identité will be given the applicant on entering, and upon giving this up on leaving the duties will be reimbursed. German, French, and Belgian coins all pass current (except bronze money)....
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GERMANY
GERMANY
Customs Dues.—Temporary importation by tourists 150 marks per auto. Oil and gasoline in the tanks also pay duty under certain rulings. A small matter, this, anyway. According to recent regulations tourists are permitted to introduce motor-vehicles into Germany for a temporary visit, free of customs duty, but it has been left to the discretion of the official to give motorists the benefit of this arrangement, or to charge the ordinary duty, with the result that some have had to make a deposit, an
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SPAIN
SPAIN
Customs Dues vary greatly on automobiles. The motor pays 18 francs, 50 centimes per hundred kilos., and the carrosserie according to its form or design. Ordinary tonneau type four places, 1,000 pesetas. For temporary importation receipts are given which will enable one to be reimbursed upon exportation of the vehicle. In general the road regulations of France apply to Spain. Speed limit, 28 kilometres per hour in open country down to 12 kilometres in the towns. A circulation permit and driving c
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Some Notes On Map—Making
Some Notes On Map—Making
The most fascinating maps for tried traveller are the wonderful Cartes d'Etat Major and of Ministre de l'Intérieur in France. The Ordnance Survey maps in England are somewhat of an approach thereto, but they are in no way as interesting to study. One must have a good eye for distances and the lay of the land, and a familiarity with the conventional signs of map-makers, in order to get full value from these excellent French maps, but the close contemplation of them will show many features which m
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A List Of European Map And Road Books Great Britain and Ireland
A List Of European Map And Road Books Great Britain and Ireland
The Contour Road Books Very useful books, including about five hundred maps and plans, showing gradients and road profiles. Bartholemew's Revised Map of England and Wales.—Complete in 87 sheets, 2 miles to the inch. Half Inch Map of England, Wales, and Scotland.—Published by Gall and Inglis (Edinburgh). Complete in 47 sheets (England and Wales). "Strip" Maps.—Published by Gall and Inglis (Edinburgh); 2 miles to the inch. The Cyclist's Touring Club Road Books Ordnance Survey Map of England and Wa
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IRELAND
IRELAND
Mecredy's Road Maps Mecredy's Road Book 2 Volumes The Continental Road Book for Great Britain—Published by the Continental Gutta-Percha Co. Excellent information on British roads, distances, hotels, etc., with a general map. The Automobile Hand Book.—The official year book Automobile Club of Great Britain and Ireland. Contains all the "official" information concerning automobileism in Britain. Rules and regulations, statistics, a few routes and plans of the large towns, and a list of "official"
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FRANCE
FRANCE
Cartes Taride.—Excellent road maps of all France in 25 sheets can be had everywhere, mounted on paper at 1 franc, cloth 2 fcs. 50 centimes. All good roads marked in red; dangerous hills are marked, also railways. Kilometres are also given between towns en route. The most useful and readable maps published of any country. A. Taride, 20 Boulevard St. Denis, Paris, also publishes The Rhine, North and South Italy, and Switzerland, each at the same price. Guide Taride (Les Routes de France).—4,000 it
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ITALY
ITALY
The Touring Club Italiano issues a series of five excellent maps covering the whole of Italy. Strade di Grande-Comunicazione—Italia—(Main Roads of Italy). An excellent profile road book of all of Italy; miniature plans of all cities and large towns, with gradients of roads, population, etc. Carte Taride—Italie, Section Nord.—Published by A. Taride, 20 Bvd. St. Denis, Paris. Comprises Aoste, Bologne, Come, Florence, Livourne, Milan, Nice, Padoua, Parma, Pise, Sienne, Trente, Turin, Venise. 1 fc.
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SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
Carte Routière.—Published by the Touring Club de Suisse; is issued in four sheets. L'Annuaire de Route.—Published by the Automobile Club de Suisse; contains a small-scale road map, hotel list, etc. Cyclist's Touring Club (London) Road Book for South and Central Europe includes Switzerland. Carte Taride pour la Suisse.—A continuation of the excellent series of Cartes Tarides (Paris, 30 Bvd. St. Denis) 1 fc., 50c. paper, 3 fcs. on cloth....
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BELGIUM
BELGIUM
The Cartes Tarides (Paris, A. Taride, 20 Boulevard St. Denis) include Belgium under the Nos. 1 and 1 Bis. Cyclist's Touring Club (London) Road Book for Northern and Central Europe includes Belgium. Carte de Belgique, issued by the Touring Club de Belgique, covers all of Belgium in one sheet. Guide-Michelin pour la Belgique, Hollande, et aux Bords du Rhin contains Belgian hotel-list, plans of towns, etc....
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HOLLAND
HOLLAND
Road Atlas—Published by the Touring Club of Holland, which also issues many detailed road and route books for the Pays Bas. Cyclists Touring Club (London) Road Book for North and Central Europe includes Holland. Guide-Michelin pour La Belgique includes Holland, Luxembourg, and the Banks of the Rhine, with information after the same manner as in the "Guide-Michelin" for France. Afstandskaart van Nederland.—An admirable road map of all Holland in two sheets, showing also all canals and waterway...
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GERMANY
GERMANY
Ravenstein's Road Maps of Central Europe. Scale about 4 miles to the inch. Taride's Bord du Rhin.—Excellent maps in three colours, main routes in red, with kilometric distances, towns, and picturesque sites clearly marked. Ravenstein's Road Book for Germany.—Two vols., North and South Germany. Cyclist's Touring Club (London) Road Book for Germany. ...
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