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LASSEN TRAILS
LASSEN TRAILS
By STEPHEN H. MATTESON Former Seasonal Naturalist Illustrations by Dorothy Matteson A brief guide to the Trails of Lassen Volcanic National Park Copyright 1963 Loomis Museum Association Third Printing 1970 Produced in cooperation with the National Park Service...
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PREFACE
PREFACE
Since most of Lassen Volcanic National Park can best be seen and enjoyed by walking the trails, this booklet is written to help those who wish to know more about the park. Much can be observed from the Lassen Park Road, including some of the best scenery and most interesting geology, but to become thoroughly acquainted with the park and to appreciate fully what it has to offer, there is no better way than walking the trails. Thirty-four trails are briefly described in this booklet. Rather than g
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Lassen Volcanic National Park, established on August 9, 1916, and containing more than 160 square miles, is administered by the National Park Service, U. S. Department of the Interior. The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United States for the benefit and enjoyment of its people. Created in 1849, the Department of the Interior—America’s Department of Natural Resources—is concerned with the manageme
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USING THE TRAILS: A FEW TIPS FOR BEGINNERS
USING THE TRAILS: A FEW TIPS FOR BEGINNERS
1. STAY ON THE TRAIL. This is usually a simple matter, but in a few places animal trails obscure the main trail. On some trails orange markers are nailed to trees to guide the hiker, and, on others, rock cairns mark the way. 2. AVOID SHORT CUTS. In the long run, they are not short cuts, as they use up more energy and are more tiring than the somewhat longer trail. They are often dangerous to the person using them and, also, dislodged rocks may injure hikers below. In addition, they always damage
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1. FOREST LAKE AND BROKEOFF MOUNTAIN
1. FOREST LAKE AND BROKEOFF MOUNTAIN
For sheer beauty and rugged mountain scenery the Brokeoff trail is one of the best in Lassen. From the entrance station it climbs steadily through open meadows and forest for two miles and then through the scattered hemlocks and finally above timberline to the top. Forest Lake is near the trail, and is a good objective for a leisurely nature walk. A wide variety of wildflowers will be found changing with the seasons, and the Brewer mountainheath produces an outstanding display. Birds frequently
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2. MILL CREEK FALLS
2. MILL CREEK FALLS
Mill Creek Falls is the highest waterfall in the park with a drop of 75 feet. It is at the junction of East Sulphur and Bumpass creeks. Because of the surrounding forest and rugged terrain there are only two or three points from which it can be photographed. The trail descends to the crossing of West Sulphur Creek, crosses an open hillside and follows through forested areas to the falls. Deer are likely to be seen as well as a variety of birds. Mule-ears, also called wyethia, is the common wildf
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3. RIDGE LAKES
3. RIDGE LAKES
These small lakes are in a cirque below the rim of the old Mount Tehama caldera. From them excellent views of Mount Diller and Diamond Peak can be seen. You will find good subjects for pictures, and naturalists will find a variety of flowers (including the striking leopard lily), birds, trees, and probably deer. The trail follows the ridge directly above the parking area for about a half mile, going through red fir and white pine forests. It then crosses an open hillside and finally goes over th
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4. SULPHUR WORKS
4. SULPHUR WORKS
The name “Sulphur Works” was given to this area when two men, Boarman and Supan, tried unsuccessfully to develop the sulphur and clay properties in 1865. The hydrothermal activity consists of hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles. As a result of the hydrothermal activity a number of different minerals are deposited in the area giving it pastel shades of yellow, orange, green, and red. Some of the minerals found are powdery opal, chalcedony, hematite, pyrite, kaolinite, alunite, and sulphur. It is
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5. BUMPASS HELL
5. BUMPASS HELL
Bumpass Hell is the largest hydrothermal area in the park, and the trail to it is one of the most scenic. Because of the popularity of this trail it is usually opened around July 1, although occasionally the snow is too deep and opening has to be postponed. The first mile is an open and sparsely wooded mountainside with grand views of Lassen, Brokeoff, Diller, and Diamond peaks, as well as the more distant Sierra. The hydrothermal area can be seen from the summit of the trail. Dropping into the
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6. BUMPASS HELL TO COLD BOILING LAKE AND KINGS CREEK
6. BUMPASS HELL TO COLD BOILING LAKE AND KINGS CREEK
Following the trail from Bumpass Hell to the Kings Creek campground furnishes an interesting variation from the usual round trip. Starting at stake 23 on the Bumpass Hell self-guiding trail, it crosses the creek and leaves the basin on the east side. It then goes downgrade for 1½ miles to Cold Boiling Lake. Along this section of the trail are good views of Mount Conard and Crumbaugh Lake, and the wildflower display, especially lupine, is exceptionally good in the open places where seeps provide
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7. LASSEN PEAK
7. LASSEN PEAK
Although persons of all ages have climbed Lassen Peak, it is not recommended for children under 4, unless carried part way, nor for adults past 70, unless in exceptionally good physical condition. Experienced hikers will find it a comparatively easy hike. But many who climb it are not experienced and may suffer mildly from being winded and from tired muscles and feet. Many people do not allow enough time for the trip. By starting slowly and resting often, most people should be able to reach the
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8. TERRACE, SHADOW, AND CLIFF LAKES
8. TERRACE, SHADOW, AND CLIFF LAKES
These three jewels lie in cirques under the north base of Reading Peak, and are not difficult to reach. For the photographer they present plenty of contrasting colors, for the naturalist a variety of trees, flowers, birds, and animal life. From the sign at the highway the trail descends rapidly. The trail forks after 0.2 of a mile, the left fork going to Hat Lake and the right fork to Terrace Lake. After Terrace Lake it passes along the shore of Shadow Lake, and then through open woods and meado
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9. PARK ROAD TO SUMMIT LAKE
9. PARK ROAD TO SUMMIT LAKE
The first part of this trail is #8 , then it continues beyond the Cliff Lake junction, down to the park road. There is a good variety of trees, wildflowers, and birds. And for a feeling of being completely in the wilderness, this trail is ideal, for a few yards off the road there are no noises of civilization nor other reminders of the bustle of the world. Beyond the Cliff Lake turnoff the trail descends quite rapidly through the Open forest, which becomes more dense as it approaches the lower l
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10. PARK ROAD TO HAT LAKE
10. PARK ROAD TO HAT LAKE
Starting where Trails No. 8 and 9 start, 0.2 mile from the road the left trail fork is followed, and the trail passes through forests and other natural features similar to No. 8 and 9. A number of good views of Lassen Peak can be seen along the way. For wildflowers it is one of the best in the park for variety, with lupine, scarlet gilia, red and blue penstemon, monkshood, columbine, and many others. After separating from the Terrace Lake trail it goes through open forests, then descends rapidly
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12. KINGS CREEK FALLS
12. KINGS CREEK FALLS
About half a mile down, the trail splits. It is recommended that the left trail be followed downhill, where it rejoins the other section. The right fork follows the cascades, and is much easier to climb on the return trip. The trail goes down through pine and fir forests, and over a meadow where flowers bloom all summer. Here one can find the leopard lily, grass-of-parnassus, and many others. Watch for glacial polishing on the rocks along the way. Morning is the best time to photograph the falls
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13. SUMMIT LAKE TO ECHO AND TWIN LAKES
13. SUMMIT LAKE TO ECHO AND TWIN LAKES
This is a good nature trail, as many kinds of wildflowers, trees, and birds are found. Deer are common in the area. Swimming is good in late summer. This is also a favorite trail for overnight hikers as it leads to the wilderness area of the eastern part of the park. Hardy hikers may wish to go beyond Twin Lakes. The trail continues past Rainbow Lake to Snag Lake, 3.5 miles, and another trail goes to Butte Lake, 5.5 miles. LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK High-resolution Map...
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14. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA UPPER TWIN LAKE
14. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA UPPER TWIN LAKE
This is one of the two main trails to the east part of the park. Horseshoe Lake can also be reached by a dirt road from Chester. If transportation can be arranged this trail will make a comparatively easy day’s hike. There is a campground at Horseshoe Lake, so it can make a good objective for an overnight hike. Hardy hikers can make the round trip in one day. The first part of the trip is most of No. 13 , and from Upper Twin Lake the trail goes south and passes close to the base of Crater Butte.
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15. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA GRASSY SWALE CREEK
15. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA GRASSY SWALE CREEK
Grassy Swale Creek passes through some beautiful meadows in which are found a variety of wildflowers. Sundew, a rare, insect-eating plant, may be found near the trail in the wet section of the meadow about one mile northeast of Corral Meadow. Douglas spirea also makes a colorful display here. The trail descends along Summit Creek about 3 miles to Corral Meadow. Here it leaves the Drakesbad trail, crosses Kings Creek and follows along Grassy Swale Creek to the base of Crater Butte. It then follow
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16. CLUSTER LAKES
16. CLUSTER LAKES
This group of six lakes is easily reached by the trail from Badger Flat. Mule-ears (wyethia) puts on a magnificent display in Badger Flats, and falsehellebore is prevalent in places. Spreading phlox is especially attractive in late June and early July along the beginning of the trail, and paintbrush further up, along with Newberry penstemon or pride-of-the-mountains. The trail passes through open forested areas in a relatively level section of Lassen. After passing the second lake the trail fork
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17. PARADISE MEADOWS
17. PARADISE MEADOWS
For wildflowers during midsummer Paradise Meadows is one of the best areas in the park. Elephanthead and gentian can be seen near Hat Lake; scarlet gilia along the first mile; and columbine, lupine, monkshood, penstemon (both red and blue), falsehellebore, and many other species will be found in the meadow area. Also, it is a good area to see birds and deer. For about a mile the trail goes up rather steeply. At the meadows there are good views of Lassen and Reading peaks, and the cirque in which
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18. CHAOS CRAGS AND CRAGS LAKE
18. CHAOS CRAGS AND CRAGS LAKE
Chaos Crags were formed by lava being forced upward and hardening in place, similar to squeezing toothpaste out of a tube. Considerable volcanic activity took place in the crater at the north base of the Crags. As a result of this activity a huge landslide occurred, strewing rocks over 2½ square miles, including the area around Manzanita and Reflection lakes. This rock slide is called Chaos Jumbles. The trail follows through pine-fir forests close to the edge of the Jumbles. Many saprophytes can
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19. LILY POND
19. LILY POND
This trail is maintained by the National Park Service primarily as a nature trail. Leaflets are available describing 43 numbered points of interest, many of which are trees, shrubs, and flowers. Ten of the 12 species of coniferous trees found in the park are along this trail. In the pond itself are aquatic plants and amphibians. The willows and alders nearby are shelters for several species of birds. Deer are frequently seen in the area, as well as ground squirrels and other small mammals. In th
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20. MANZANITA LAKE
20. MANZANITA LAKE
On the south side of the lake the trail goes through manzanita brush and open meadows. Along the west side is ponderosa pine forest with alder thickets by the lake. Along this stretch can be seen some of the few black cottonwood trees found in the park. On the north side is the road, with willow and alder thickets by the shore, and on the east side is the lodge and campground. From the west side are excellent views of Lassen Peak and Chaos Crags. A good variety of birds may be observed, includin
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21. MANZANITA CREEK
21. MANZANITA CREEK
This hike starts on a fire road that provides steady, but relatively easy climbing. The first 0.7 mile is through manzanita, and birds and smaller mammals can be observed. When the forest of red fir and lodgepole pine is reached the trail becomes much more appealing, and striking views of Chaos Crags and Lassen Peak are glimpsed through the trees. On the last half mile, where the creek winds and tumbles through sloping meadows, the wildflower display is magnificent. Flowers bloom profusely throu
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22. CINDER CONE
22. CINDER CONE
This is one of the most perfectly formed cinder cones in the United States, and one of the most recent. In the spring of 1851, pioneers following Emigrant, or Nobles, Trail saw the results of the previous winter’s eruption. For persons interested in geology or photography this trail is a must. It goes through open forest for about 1.5 miles, close to the base of the cone, and the rest of the trail is in the open. The trail up the cone is fairly steep, and is in loose Cinders, making climbing sim
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23. PROSPECT PEAK
23. PROSPECT PEAK
Prospect Peak provides commanding views of Lassen, Harkness, West Prospect, Shasta, and other surrounding mountains, several lakes, and the crater of the Cinder Cone. In the early summer there is a small lake in the crater of Prospect Peak, an ancient volcano. About a half mile from Butte Lake the trail leaves the Cinder Cone trail, and climbs steadily through ponderosa pine, fir, and sub-alpine forests to above timberline. Birds and other wildlife abound, and occasionally, bobcats or even a mou
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24. BATHTUB LAKE
24. BATHTUB LAKE
This is a delightful, easy walk through open ponderosa pine and fir forest to two small lakes. The first lake is a quarter mile and the second (Bathtub) a half mile from the camp. For good (not icy) swimming these lakes are recommended. And for a leisurely nature walk one can easily spend two hours looking for birds and flowers and identifying trees and shrubs....
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25. BUTTE LAKE (North and East Shores)
25. BUTTE LAKE (North and East Shores)
For sheer beauty and a feeling of wilderness, this is an excellent trail. Good views of the lake and the Cinder Cone are frequent. Deer and a variety of birds, trees, and flowers may be observed. In the first mile the trail ascends a hill overlooking the lake. After crossing Butte Creek it follows close to the shore to the south end. From the south end of the lake the trail continues 2.5 miles to Snag Lake and another 3 miles to either Juniper or Horseshoe lakes. (See Trail No. 27 , Butte Lake t
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26. WIDOW LAKE
26. WIDOW LAKE
The first 2 miles is trail No. 25 , Butte Lake. From the Widow Lake trail are scenic views of Cinder Cone, Lassen Peak, Prospect Peak, Mount Harkness, and many other mountains of the vicinity. From the south end of Butte Lake the trail climbs rapidly, about 1,000 feet in 2 miles. From Widow Lake the trail continues south, past the Red Cinder Cone to Jakey Lake (6 miles), and on to Juniper Lake (10 miles)....
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27. BUTTE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
27. BUTTE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
The first 2 miles is Trail No. 25 , Butte Lake. From the south end of Butte Lake there are two trails. One, not maintained by the Park Service, goes by the base of the lava flow, and the other goes through the forest to Snag Lake. Along the lava flow one can easily picture the volcanic activity as the trail winds close to huge basalt blocks. The two trails come together at the bay on the east shore and one trail continues to the south end of the lake. From this point a trail leads to Juniper Lak
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28. HORSESHOE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
28. HORSESHOE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
In the meadow northeast of the Horseshoe Lake Ranger Station the remains of an early settler’s cabin can be seen, and many wildflowers and birds. The trail follows Grassy Creek much of the way to Snag Lake. Snag Lake was created by lava flows from Cinder Cone damming Grassy Creek. The trees that were killed slowly rotted and fell into the lake, but in the early days of the park there were many standing snags to be seen. Since the lake seeps through lava, the level varies considerably from year t
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29. JUNIPER LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
29. JUNIPER LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
Wildflowers bloom profusely in Cameron Meadows during July and often into August, and it is a good area for birds and deer. Here, also, are the remains of an early settler’s cabin. The trail is shaded by ponderosa pine and fir forest most of the way, except for a short stretch at Cameron Meadows. From here it swings close to the east fork of Grassy Creek and continues on to Snag Lake. From Snag Lake Trail No. 27 continues on to Butte Lake. Jeffrey Pine...
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30. INSPIRATION POINT
30. INSPIRATION POINT
Inspiration Point is well named, as it affords some of the finest views of Lassen, Harkness, Prospect, and more distant mountains. Snag, Butte, and Juniper lakes are in full view, as well as Cameron Meadows and Cinder Cone. To the southeast of the trail, as you approach Inspiration Point, look for the fine specimens of western juniper. The trail climbs steadily through western white pine and red fir timber to the open area of the point. Various birds may be seen as well as deer and small mammals
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31. CRYSTAL LAKE
31. CRYSTAL LAKE
This lake lies in a cirque below the Crystal Cliffs. From the trail are views of Juniper Lake, Lassen and other peaks. Many consider it the most beautiful lake in Lassen. A relatively easy hike through forests and meadows surrounding the lake....
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32. MOUNT HARKNESS
32. MOUNT HARKNESS
The trail winds upward through the pine-fir forest. On top of Mount Harkness is the only fire lookout station in the park. From it are outstanding views of Juniper Lake and Lassen, Brokeoff, Prospect, and other peaks in the park, as well as the Sierra to the south and other mountains to the east and north. On top, the brilliant red bloom of the smooth cycladenia brightens the rocky slopes during July. The lookout is staffed during the summer months and usually these people are glad to have visit
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33. BOILING SPRINGS LAKE
33. BOILING SPRINGS LAKE
A number of steam vents are located under Boiling Springs Lake, keeping the temperature of the lake around 125 degrees. The mudpots on the southeast shore are among the best in the park. Their coloring is magnificent. The trail crosses a meadow and then goes through forest to the lake and around it. Trees include incense-cedar, ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, white fir, sugar pine, and others. A variety of wildflowers are found, and it is a good area to observe birds. At the beginning of the trail
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34. DEVIL’S KITCHEN
34. DEVIL’S KITCHEN
This hydrothermal area is larger than the Sulphur Works, smaller than Bumpass Hell, and differs from both. Hot Springs Creek runs through the area, and on a shelf just above this creek are a number of mudpots. Whoever named this area apparently imagined the devil cooking over these pots. The area extends above and beyond the mudpots with a number of steam vents on the side of the hill. And at the lower end are a group of trees which were killed quite recently when new vents opened up. In explori
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Trails not described in the booklet:
Trails not described in the booklet:
These trails are shown on the topographic map of Lassen Volcanic National Park. Experienced hikers may want to visit places not on the trails, and with a topographic map as a guide should be able to go to a number of places in comparative safety. But beginners should stick to the established trails. Before venturing off the trails one should consult with a park ranger....
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