Three Expeditions Into The Interior Of Eastern Australia
T. L. (Thomas Livingstone) Mitchell
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PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.
The following Journals were written at the close of many a laborious day, when the energies both of mind and body were almost exhausted by long-continued toil. The author trusts that this circumstance will account for, and palliate, some of the defects which may be discovered in his volumes. Conscious as he is of the deficiencies of his work, he nevertheless hopes that the reader will not pronounce it to be wholly devoid of interest. Though Australia calls up no historical recollections, no clas
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JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE KINDUR, IN 1831 AND 1832.
JOURNEY IN SEARCH OF THE KINDUR, IN 1831 AND 1832.
CHAPTER 1.1. A Bushranger's story. My plan of exploration. Preparations. Departure from Sydney. A garden. Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbury. Beyond the Hawkesbury. Summit of Warrawolong. Natives of Brisbane Water. The Wollombi. Valley of the Hunter. Fossils of the Hunter. Men employed on the expedition. Equipment. Burning grass. Aborigines and Colonists. Cambo, a wild native. A Colonist of the right sort. Escape of the Bushranger, The Barber. Burning Hill of Wingen. Approach Liverpool Ra
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EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING, IN 1835.
EXPEDITION SENT TO EXPLORE THE COURSE OF THE RIVER DARLING, IN 1835.
CHAPTER 2.1. Supposed course of the Darling. Mr. Dixon's survey of the Bogan. Expedition postponed. Description of the boat carriage. Number and description of the party. Expedition leaves Parramatta. My departure from Sydney. Western part of Cumberland. County of Cook. The Blue Mountains. Weatherboard Inn. Mounts Hay and Tomah. River Grose. Early attempts to trace it upwards. Intended Tunnel. Pass of Mount Victoria. Advantages of convict labour. Country of Mulgoey. Emu plains. Township. General
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SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF ANIMALS COLLECTED DURING THE SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS, AND DEPOSITED IN THE AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM AT SYDNEY.
SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF ANIMALS COLLECTED DURING THE SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS, AND DEPOSITED IN THE AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM AT SYDNEY.
1. Rhinolophus megaphyllus. Gray. 2. Petaurus leucogaster. Mitch. (New Species.) From the banks of the Murray. 3. Phalangista xanthopus. Ogilby. From Rifle range, near the Glenelg. 4. Choeropus ecaudatus. Ogilby. (New Species.) Volume 2 page 131. From forest near the Murray. 5. Myrmecobius ? rufus. Mitch. (New Species.)* (*Footnote. This was called the red shrew mouse by the men composing the party, but as no species of the Insectivora of Zoologista has hitherto been discovered in Australia, it
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FOSSIL ANIMALS DISCOVERED IN THE CAVES OF WELLINGTON VALLEY AND BUREE.
FOSSIL ANIMALS DISCOVERED IN THE CAVES OF WELLINGTON VALLEY AND BUREE.
1. Dasyurus laniarius. Owen. (Extinct Species.) 2. Phalangista. (Undetermined Species.) 3. Hyrsiprymnus. (Undetermined Species.) 4. Macropus atlas. Owen. (Extinct Species.) 5. Macropus titan. Owen. (Extinct Species.) 6. Macropus. (Undetermined Species.) 7. Halmaturus. (Undetermined Species.) 8. Phascolomys mitchellii. Owen. (Extinct Species ?) 9. Diprotodon optatum. Owen. (Extinct Genus.) 1. Turbo filosa. Sowerby. (New Species.) Volume 1 page 15. 2. Trochus oculus. Sowerby. (New Species.) Volume
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A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF SEVENTY-SEVEN NEW PLANTS DESCRIBED IN THIS WORK.
A SYSTEMATICAL LIST OF SEVENTY-SEVEN NEW PLANTS DESCRIBED IN THIS WORK.
Pleurandra incana, volume 2 page 156. Campylanthera ericoides, volume 2 page 277. Tetratheca ciliata, volume 2 page 206. Baeckia crassifolia, volume 2 page 115. Baeckia alpina, volume 2 page 178. Baeckia calycina, volume 2 page 190. Eucalyptus alpina, volume 2 page 175. Genetyllis alpestris, volume 2 page 178. Loranthus quandang, volume 2 page 69. Capparis mitchellii, volume 1 page 315. Pigea floribunda, volume 2 page 165. Hybiscus tridactylites, volume page 85. Sida corrugata, volume 2 page 13.
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CHAPTER 1.1.
CHAPTER 1.1.
A Bushranger's story. My plan of exploration. Preparations. Departure from Sydney. A garden. Country between Sydney and the Hawkesbury. Beyond the Hawkesbury. Summit of Warrawolong. Natives of Brisbane Water. The Wollombi. Valley of the Hunter. Fossils of the Hunter. Men employed on the expedition. Equipment. Burning grass. Aborigines and Colonists. Cambo, a wild native. A Colonist of the right sort. Escape of the Bushranger, The Barber. Burning Hill of Wingen. Approach Liverpool Range. Cross it
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CHAPTER 1.2.
CHAPTER 1.2.
Enter an unexplored region. Situation of Mr. Oxley's camp on the Peel. Westward course of the river. Kangaroo shot. Calcareous rocks. Acacia pendula first seen. Other trees near the river. Junction of the Peel and Muluerindie. View from Perimbungay. Ford of Wallanburra. Plains of Mulluba. View from Mount Ydire. Hills seen agree with The Bushranger's account. The river Namoi. Stockyard of The Bushranger. Singular fish. View from Tangulda. Cutting through a thick scrub. Want of water. Impeded by a
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CHAPTER 1.3.
CHAPTER 1.3.
Fires in the Bush. Rocks of Bullabalakit. Boat launched. Bees load my rifle with honey. Embark on the Namoi in canvas boats. Impediments to the navigation. Boat staked, and sinks. The leak patched. She again runs foul of a log. Provisions damaged. Resolve to proceed by land. Pack up the boats, and continue the journey. Pass the western extremity of Nundewar Range. Unknown tree. Water scarce. Providential supply. Crayfish. Trap-hill on plains. Cut through a scrub. Meet a tribe of Natives. Again o
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CHAPTER 1.4.
CHAPTER 1.4.
Change the route to trace the course of the Gwydir. A native village of bowers. Effect of sudden moisture on the wheels. Tortuous course of the Gwydir. Lines of irrigation across the plains. Heavy rain. Crested pigeon. The party impeded by the soft state of the surface. Lagoons near the river. Excursion northward. Reach a broad sheet of water. Position of the party. The common course of the river, and the situation of the range considered. Nondescript tree and fruit. Plains of rich soil, beautif
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CHAPTER 1.5.
CHAPTER 1.5.
Excursion down the Karaula. Its unexpected course. Formidable insects. Junction of the Gwydir. Owls and Rats. Natives at the camp during my absence. Their attempts to steal. Native dogs. Tents struck to cross. Arrival of Mr. Finch. Murder of his men. Loss of his horses. And seizure of his stores by the natives. Destroy the boat and retire from the Karaula. Forced march to the Gwydir. Numerous tribes surround the party. Good effects of sky-rockets. Funeral dirge by a native female. Dog killed by
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CHAPTER 1.6.
CHAPTER 1.6.
Proposed movements. Hot wind. Heavy rains set in. Country impassable for several days. Excursion to the plundered camp of Mr. Finch. Recover the cart and trunks. Bury the bodies. Columns of smoke. Signals of the natives. Courage and humanity of one of the men. Homeward journey continued. Difficult travelling. Civility of the tribe first met. Mosquitoes troublesome. Regain the Namoi. Ascend Mount Warroga. Re-cross the Peel. Conclusion. PROPOSED MOVEMENTS. We had arrived at the point where I consi
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CHAPTER 2.1.
CHAPTER 2.1.
Supposed course of the Darling. Mr. Dixon's survey of the Bogan. Expedition postponed. Description of the boat carriage. Number and description of the party. Expedition leaves Parramatta. My departure from Sydney. Western part of Cumberland. County of Cook. The Blue Mountains. Weatherboard Inn. Mounts Hay and Tomah. River Grose. Early attempts to trace it upwards. Intended Tunnel. Pass of Mount Victoria. Advantages of convict labour. Country of Mulgoey. Emu plains. Township. General arrangement
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CHAPTER 2.2.
CHAPTER 2.2.
Ascend the Canobolas. Choose the direction of my route. Ascend the hill north of Buree. Encamp on the Mundadgery. Cross a granitic range. King's Creek. Cross Hervey's range. First view of the interior. Parched state of the interior country. The dogs kill a kangaroo. Steep descent to the westward. Search for water by moonlight. Encamp without any. Follow a valley downwards and find water. Lifeless appearance of the valleys. Luxury of possessing water after long privation. Ascend Mount Juson with
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CHAPTER 2.3.
CHAPTER 2.3.
Search for Mr. Cunningham. No traces to be seen. Supposed to have met with an accident. Souter and Murray sent back along the track. My search South-South-West 40 miles. Interview with two natives. Range of porphyry. Mr. Cunningham's track found. Mr. Larmer and a party sent to trace it. Mr. Cunningham's track followed for 70 miles, his horse found dead. His own footsteps traced. Mr. Larmer meets a tribe. The footsteps traced into the channel of the Bogan. Death of the Kangaroo. Reflections. Five
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CHAPTER 2.4.
CHAPTER 2.4.
Continue along the Bogan, guided by the natives. Their caution in approaching the haunts of others. Their accurate knowledge of localities. Introduced to the Bungan tribe. Superiority of the King how displayed. Dangerous mistake. A true savage. The king of the Bogan takes his leave. Kangaroos numerous. Beauty of the shrubs. Dangerous consequence of surprising a native. Wounded native led to our camp. His confidence gained by kind treatment. Oxley's Tableland. Mr. Larmer's excursion to it. Narrow
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CHAPTER 2.5.
CHAPTER 2.5.
Rain at last. Stockade erected. Named Fort Bourke. Visited by the natives. Mortality among them from smallpox. Results of the journey. Friendly disposition of a native. Boats launched. Presents to natives. They become importunate. We leave the depot and embark in the boats. Slow progress down the river. Return to the depot. Natives in canoes. Excursion with a party on horseback. A perfumed vegetable. Interview with natives. Present them with tomahawks. Unsuccessful search for Mr. Hume's marked t
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CHAPTER 2.6.
CHAPTER 2.6.
Natives of the Spitting tribe. Singular behaviour on the discharge of a pistol. Conjectures. Second interview with the Spitting tribe. Strange ceremonial. Amusing attempts to steal, or diamond cut diamond. Dry channel of a stream. Tombs on the sandhills. White balls on tombs. Australian shamrock. Old canoe. Dry state of the country. Danger and difficulty of watching the cattle on the riverbanks. Uniform character of the Darling. The Grenadier bird. The Doctor and the natives. A range discovered
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CHAPTER 2.7.
CHAPTER 2.7.
Commencement of the homeward journey. The cattle begin to fail. Halt and endeavour to lighten the carts. Rain comes on. Native conversations at a distance. Party separated to watch the cattle. Illness of some of the men from scurvy. Mr. Larmer's excursion into the country to the eastward. The Spitting tribe again. Return of Mr. Larmer, who had found water and inhabitants. A day's halt. Ride to Greenough's group. View from the summit. Barter with natives beyond the Darling. The Red tribe again. N
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CHAPTER 2.8.
CHAPTER 2.8.
The party leaves the Darling. Natives approach the camp during the night. Scared by a rocket. Discovery of a Caper-tree. The kangaroos and emus driven away by the natives. Difference between the plains of the Darling and Bogan. Extreme illness of one of the party. New Year's range. A thunderstorm. Three natives remind us of the man wounded. Another man of the party taken ill. Acacia pendula. Beauty of the scenery. Mr. Larmer traces Duck Creek up to the Macquarie. A hot wind. Talambe of the Bogan
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APPENDIX 1.1.
APPENDIX 1.1.
Sydney, Sunday Night, 10 o'clock, 27th November, 1831. My Dear Major, Colonel Lindesay desires me to say that although there is no relief on the road he thinks it of sufficient importance to despatch a man all the way through to Pewen Bewen, to acquaint you with what we have just heard by express, that The Barber HAS ESCAPED. I need not say how exceedingly I regret this on all accounts, but particularly as I think it is likely to add to your difficulties; and certainly does increase the necessit
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APPENDIX 1.2.
APPENDIX 1.2.
Bathurst, December 7, 1835. Sir, I have the honour to state that in conforming with the instructions contained in the Colonial Secretary's letter of the 16th of October, together with your orders directing me to proceed to the interior for the purpose of ascertaining the fate of Mr. Cunningham, I proceeded with the party on the 24th of October for Buree, which place I left on the 29th, accompanied by Sandy (the black native mentioned in my instructions). On the 2nd November I fortunately met wit
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VOLUME 2.
VOLUME 2.
PLATE 22: CRATER OF MURROA, OR MOUNT NAPIER, IN AUSTRALIA FELIX (DESCRIBED IN THE TEXT). Major T.L. Mitchell del. A. Picken Lith. Day and Haghe Lithographers to the Queen....
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EXPEDITION TO THE RIVERS DARLING AND MURRAY, IN THE YEAR 1836.
EXPEDITION TO THE RIVERS DARLING AND MURRAY, IN THE YEAR 1836.
CHAPTER 3.1. Route proposed. Equipment. List of the Men. Agreement with a native guide. Livestock. Corrobory-dance of the natives. Visit to the Limestone caves. Osseous breccia. Mount Granard, first point to be attained. Halt on a dry creek. Break a wheel. Attempt to ascend Marga. Snakes. View from Marga. Reach the Lachlan. Find its channel dry. CHAPTER 3.2. Continue the journey. Acacia pendula. Ascend Mount Amyot. Field's Plains. Cracks in the surface. Ascend Mount Cunningham. Mr. Oxley's tree.
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CHAPTER 3.1.
CHAPTER 3.1.
Route proposed. Equipment. List of the Men. Agreement with a native guide. Livestock. Corrobory-dance of the natives. Visit to the Limestone caves. Osseous breccia. Mount Granard, first point to be attained. Halt on a dry creek. Break a wheel. Attempt to ascend Marga. Snakes. View from Marga. Reach the Lachlan. Find its channel dry. ROUTE PROPOSED. Towards the end of the year 1835 I was apprised that the governor of New South Wales was desirous of having the survey of the Darling completed with
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CHAPTER 3.2.
CHAPTER 3.2.
Continue the journey. Acacia pendula. Ascend Mount Amyot. Field's Plains. Cracks in the surface. Ascend Mount Cunningham. Mr. Oxley's tree. Rain. Goobang Creek. Large fishes. Heavy rain. Ascend Mount Allan. Natives from the Bogan. Prophecy of a Coradje. Poisoned waterhole. Ascend Hurd's Peak. Snake and bird. Ride to Mount Granard. Scarcity of water there. View from the summit. Encamp there. Ascend Bolloon, a hill beyond the Lachlan. Natives refuse to eat emu. Native dog. Kalingalungaguy. Mr. Sta
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CHAPTER 3.3.
CHAPTER 3.3.
North arm of the Lachlan. Quawys. Wallangome. Wild cattle. Ascend Moriattu. Leave the Lachlan to travel westward. No water. Natives from Warranary. Course down the Lachlan resumed. Extensive ride to the westward. Night without water. Continue westward, and south-west. Sandhills. Atriplex. Deep cracks in the earth. Search for the Lachlan. Cross various dry channels. Graves. Second night without water. Native tumulus. Reedy swamp with dead trees. Route of Mr. Oxley. Dry bed of the Lachlan. Find at
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CHAPTER 3.4.
CHAPTER 3.4.
The Murrumbidgee compared with other rivers. Heaps of stones used in cooking. High reeds on the riverbank. Lake Weromba. Native encampment. Riverbanks of difficult access. Best horse drowned. Cross a country subject to inundations. Traverse a barren region at some distance from the river. Kangaroos there. Another horse in the river. Lagoons preferable to the river for watering cattle. High wind, dangerous in a camp under trees. Serious accident; a cartwheel passes over The Widow's child. Graves
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CHAPTER 3.5.
CHAPTER 3.5.
New and remarkable shrub. Darling tribe again. Their dispersion by the party. Cross a tract intersected by deep lagoons. Huts over tombs. Another division of the Darling tribe. Barren sands and the Eucalyptus dumosa. Plants which grow on the sand and bind it down. Fish caught. Aspect of the country to the northward. Strange natives from beyond the Murray. They decamp during the night. Reach the Darling and surprise a numerous tribe of natives. Piper and his gin explain. Search for the junction w
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CHAPTER 3.6.
CHAPTER 3.6.
Return along the bank of the Murray. Mount Lookout. Appearance of rain. Chance of being cut off from the depot by the river floods. A savage man at home. Tributaries of the Murray. A storm in the night. Traverse the land of lagoons before the floods come down. Traces of many naked feet along our old track. Camp of 400 natives. Narrow escape from the floods of the river. Piper overtakes two youths fishing in Lake Benanee. Description of the lake. Great rise in the waters of the Murray. Security o
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CHAPTER 3.7.
CHAPTER 3.7.
Exploring through a fog. Lakes. Circular Lake of Boga. Clear grassy hills. Natives on the lake. Scarcity of fuel on the bank of a deep river. Different character of two rivers. Unfortunate result of Piper's interview with the natives of the lake. Discovery of the Jerboa in Australia. Different habits of the savage and civilized. A range visible in the south. Peculiarities in the surface of the country near the river. Water of the lakes brackish, or salt. Natives fly at our approach. Arrival in t
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CHAPTER 3.8.
CHAPTER 3.8.
The Party quits the Murray. Pyramid Hill. Beautiful country seen from it. Discovery of the river Yarrayne. A bridge made across it. Covered by a sudden rise of the river. Then cross it in boats. Useful assistance of Piper. Our female guide departs. Enter a hilly country. Ascend Barrabungalo. Rainy weather. Excursion southward. The widow returns to the party. Natives of Tarray. Their description of the country. Discover the Loddon. The woods. Cross a range. Kangaroos numerous. The earth becomes s
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CHAPTER 3.9.
CHAPTER 3.9.
Plains of stiff clay. The Wimmera. Difficult passage of its five branches. Ascend Mount Zero. Circular lake, brackish water. The Wimmera in a united channel. Lose this river. Ascend Mount Arapiles. Mr. Stapylton's excursion northward. Salt lakes. Green Hill lake. Mitre lake. Relinquish the pursuit of the Wimmera. The party travels to the south-west. Red lake. Small lakes of fresh water. White lake. Basketwork of the natives. Muddy state of the surface. Mr. Stapylton's ride southward. Disastrous
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CHAPTER 3.10.
CHAPTER 3.10.
Cross various rivulets. Enter the valley of Nangeela. Native female and child. Encamp on the Glenelg. Cross the Wannon. Rifle range. Mount Gambier first seen from it. Sterile moors crossed by the party. Natives numerous but not accessible. Again arrive on the Glenelg. Indifferent country on its banks. Breadth and velocity of the river. Encamp on a tributary. Difficult passage. The expedition brought to a stand in soft ground. Excursion beyond. Reach a fine point on the river. The carts extricate
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CHAPTER 3.11.
CHAPTER 3.11.
Leave the Glenelg and travel eastward. Cross the Crawford. Boggy character of its sources. Recross the Rifle range. Heavy timber the chief impediment. Travelling also difficult from the softness of the ground. Excursion southward to Portland Bay. Mount Eckersley. Cross the Fitzroy. Cross the Surry. Lady Julia Percy's Isle. Beach of Portland Bay. A vessel at anchor. House and farming establishment there. Whale fishery. Excursion to Cape Nelson. Mount Kincaid. A whale chase. Sagacity of the native
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CHAPTER 3.12.
CHAPTER 3.12.
Parting of The Widow and her child. We at length emerge on much firmer ground. River Hopkins. Mount Nicholson. Cockajemmy salt lakes. Natives ill disposed. Singular weapon. Treacherous concealment of a native. Contents of a native's basket and store. A tribe comes forward. Fine country for colonisation. Hollows in the downs. Snakes numerous. Native females. Cattle tracks. Ascend Mount Cole. Enter on a granite country. Many rivulets. Mammeloid hills. Lava, the surface rock. Snakes eaten by the na
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CHAPTER 3.13.
CHAPTER 3.13.
Continue through a level forest country. Ascend a height near the camp, and obtain a sight of snowy summits to the eastward. Reach a swampy river. A man drowned. Pass through Futter's range. Impeded by a swamp among reeds. Junction of the rivers Ovens and King. Ascend granitic ranges. Lofty mass named Mount Aberdeen. Reach the Murray. The river very difficult of access. A carriage track discovered. Passage of the river. Cattle. Horses. Party returning to meet Mr. Stapylton. A creek terminating i
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CHAPTER 3.14.
CHAPTER 3.14.
Agreeable travelling. Appearance of the country on the Murrumbidgee. Jugion Creek. Brunonia abundant. Yass plains. The Gap, an inn. Bredalbane plains. Lake George. Soil and rocks. The Wollondilly. Goulburn plains. A garden. Public works. Shoalhaven river. Limestone caverns there. County of St. Vincent. Upper Shoalhaven. Carwary. Vast subsidence on a mountain there. Goulburn township. Great road. Towrang hill. The Wollondilly. Wild country through which it flows. The Nattai. Moyengully. Arrive at
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CHAPTER 3.15.
CHAPTER 3.15.
Geological specimens collected. Connection between soil and rocks. Limestone. Granite. Trap-rocks. Sandstone. Geological structure and physical outline. Valleys of excavation. Extent of that of the Cox. Quantity of rock removed. Valley of the Grose. Wellington Valley. Limestone caverns. Description and view of the largest. Of that containing osseous breccia. First discovery of bones. Small cavity and stalagmitic crust. Teeth found in the floor. A third cavern. Breccia on the surface. Similar cav
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APPENDIX 2.3.
APPENDIX 2.3.
EXTRACT FROM THE SYDNEY HERALD OF MAY 21, 1838. The murder of Mr. Faithful's servants by the blacks having created a more than ordinary sensation among the settlers in the interior, we have obtained the following authentic particulars of that desperate outrage. It appears that on the morning of the 11th ultimo, a party of men in charge of Mr. Faithful's sheep on the route to Port Phillip were preparing to proceed from the Winding Swamp, about 30 miles beyond the Ovens River, on their way to the
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