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ANGOLA AND THE RIVER CONGO.
ANGOLA AND THE RIVER CONGO.
BY JOACHIM JOHN MONTEIRO, ASSOCIATE OF THE ROYAL SCHOOL OF MINES, AND CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY. IN TWO VOLUMES. Vol. I. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. London: MACMILLAN AND CO. 1875. All Rights Reserved. All Rights Reserved. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. TO ROSE MY WIFE I Dedicate this Work IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF THE HAPPY DAYS WE PASSED TOGETHER IN THE PEACEFUL STILLNESS AND TROPICAL LUXURIANCE OF THE VAST SOLITUDES OF ANGOLA
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The following description of the country between the River Zaire or Congo, and Mossamedes or Little Fish Bay, comprising ten degrees of latitude, is the result of many years of travel in and exploration of that part of the coast. My aim has been to present an accurate and truthful account of its more striking features and productions, and of the manners and customs of the various tribes which inhabit it. I have avoided mentioning more names of places and persons than are necessary, as they would
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CHAPTER I.HISTORY.
CHAPTER I.HISTORY.
The following sketch of the discovery and earlier history of Angola is translated and condensed from an interesting work in Portuguese by Feo Cardozo, on the ‘History of the Governors of Angola’ (Paris, 8vo, 1825):— “The Portuguese, engrossed by the great hopes raised by the conquest of Brazil and the Indies, did not determine to establish themselves in Angola till eighty-four years after they had discovered it. The King of Angola, jealous of the advantages that he supposed his neighbour the Kin
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CHAPTER II.PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY—CHARACTER OF VEGETATION—RIVERS.
CHAPTER II.PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY—CHARACTER OF VEGETATION—RIVERS.
The Portuguese possessions of Angola on the south-west coast of Africa extend from Ambriz in 7° 49´ S. Lat. to Cape Frio in 18° 20´ S. Lat. Their farthest establishment south is, however, at Mossamedes, or Little Fish Bay, in 15° 20´ S. Lat. Throughout this book in speaking of Angola I include not only the country from Mossamedes to Ambriz, at present occupied by the Portuguese, but farther north, as far as the River Congo, that being its strong natural limit of climate, fauna, and ethnology, as
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CHAPTER III.THE RIVER CONGO A BOUNDARY—SLAVE TRADE—SLAVERY—ORDEAL BY POISON—INSENSIBILITY OF THE NEGRO—INGRATITUDE.
CHAPTER III.THE RIVER CONGO A BOUNDARY—SLAVE TRADE—SLAVERY—ORDEAL BY POISON—INSENSIBILITY OF THE NEGRO—INGRATITUDE.
The River Congo, or Zaire, is a very striking and well-marked line of division or boundary, in respect of climate, fauna, natives and customs, between Angola and the rest of the West Coast. The difference in the scenery and vegetation from those of the north is very great indeed, and not less so is that of the birds and animals. I have noticed enough to convince me that it would well repay a naturalist to investigate the number of species this river cuts off, as it were, from Angola; the gorilla
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CHAPTER IV.THE RIVER CONGO—BANANA—PORTO DA LENHA—BOMA—MUSSURONGO TRIBE—PIRATES—MUSHICONGO TRIBE—FISH—PALM CHOP—PALM WINE.
CHAPTER IV.THE RIVER CONGO—BANANA—PORTO DA LENHA—BOMA—MUSSURONGO TRIBE—PIRATES—MUSHICONGO TRIBE—FISH—PALM CHOP—PALM WINE.
At the mouth of the River Congo and on its north bank a long spit of sand separates the sea from a small creek or branch of the river. On this narrow strip, called Banana, are established several factories, belonging to Dutch, French, and English houses, and serving principally as depôts for their other factories higher up the river and on the coast. The Dutch house especially is a large establishment, and it was in one of their small steamers that my wife and myself ascended the river in Februa
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CHAPTER V.COUNTRY FROM THE RIVER CONGO TO AMBRIZ—VEGETATION—TRADING—CIVILIZATION—COMMERCE—PRODUCTS—IVORY—MUSSERRA—SLEEP DISEASE—SALT—MINERAL PITCH.
CHAPTER V.COUNTRY FROM THE RIVER CONGO TO AMBRIZ—VEGETATION—TRADING—CIVILIZATION—COMMERCE—PRODUCTS—IVORY—MUSSERRA—SLEEP DISEASE—SALT—MINERAL PITCH.
The southern point, at the entrance of the River Congo, is called Point Padrão, from a marble “Padrão,” or monument raised by the Portuguese to commemorate the discovery of the River Congo by Diogo Cam, in 1485. At a short distance from it there formerly existed a monastery and missionary establishment dedicated to Santo Antonio. That part of the southern bank of the river opposite Banana is called Santo Antonio to this day, and a few years ago a Portuguese trader opened a house there for the pu
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CHAPTER VI.AMBRIZ—TRADE—MALACHITE—ROAD TO BEMBE—TRAVELLING—MOSQUITOES—QUIBALLA TO QUILUMBO—QUILUMBO TO BEMBE.
CHAPTER VI.AMBRIZ—TRADE—MALACHITE—ROAD TO BEMBE—TRAVELLING—MOSQUITOES—QUIBALLA TO QUILUMBO—QUILUMBO TO BEMBE.
Ambriz, seen from the sea, consists of a high rocky cliff or promontory, with a fine bay sweeping with a level beach northward nearly to the next promontory, on which stand the trading factories forming the place called Quissembo, or Kinsembo of the English. In the bay the little River Loge has its mouth, and marks the northern limit of the Portuguese possession of Angola. The country beyond, described in the last chapter, is in the hands of the natives, under their own laws, and owing no allegi
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CHAPTER VII.BEMBE—MALACHITE DEPOSIT—ROOT PARASITE—ENGONGUI—MORTALITY OF CATTLE—FAIRS—KING OF CONGO—RECEPTIONS—CUSTOMS—SAN SALVADOR—FEVERS—RETURN TO AMBRIZ.
CHAPTER VII.BEMBE—MALACHITE DEPOSIT—ROOT PARASITE—ENGONGUI—MORTALITY OF CATTLE—FAIRS—KING OF CONGO—RECEPTIONS—CUSTOMS—SAN SALVADOR—FEVERS—RETURN TO AMBRIZ.
Bembe is the third great elevation, and it stands boldly and cliff-like out of the broad plain on which we have been travelling, and at its base runs the little river Luqueia. Approaching it from the westward, we see a high mountain to the right of the plateau of Bembe, separated from it by a narrow gorge thickly wooded that drains the valley, separating in its turn the table-land of Bembe from the high flat country beyond, in a north and easterly direction. This valley, in which the great depos
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CHAPTER VIII.CHARACTER OF THE NEGRO—FETISH—CUSTOMS—ARMS AND WAR—DRESS—ZOMBO TRIBE—BURIAL—INSANITY.
CHAPTER VIII.CHARACTER OF THE NEGRO—FETISH—CUSTOMS—ARMS AND WAR—DRESS—ZOMBO TRIBE—BURIAL—INSANITY.
The language, customs, and habits of the Mussurongo, Ambriz, and Mushicongo tribes are very similar, and are distinguished in many particulars from those of the natives of the district of Loanda, who speak the Bunda language. This is not astonishing, when we consider that Loanda has been constantly occupied by the white race since its discovery, and that this intercourse has necessarily modified their character to a certain extent. The former tribes are, however, still almost in their primitive
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CHAPTER IX.CUSTOMS OF THE MUSSURONGO, AMBRIZ, AND MUSHICONGO NEGROES—MANDIOCA PLANT—ITS PREPARATIONS—CHILI PEPPER—BANANAS—RATS—WHITE ANT—NATIVE BEER—STRANGE SOUNDS.
CHAPTER IX.CUSTOMS OF THE MUSSURONGO, AMBRIZ, AND MUSHICONGO NEGROES—MANDIOCA PLANT—ITS PREPARATIONS—CHILI PEPPER—BANANAS—RATS—WHITE ANT—NATIVE BEER—STRANGE SOUNDS.
The Mussurongo, Ambriz, and Mushicongo negroes have hardly any industrial or mechanical occupation; they weave no cloths of cotton or other fibre; their only manufactures being the few implements, baskets, pots, &c., required in their agriculture and household operations. The reason for this want of industry, apart from the inherent laziness and utter dislike of the negroes for work of any kind, is to be found in their socialistic and conservative ideas and laws. No man can be richer tha
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ANGOLA AND THE RIVER CONGO.
ANGOLA AND THE RIVER CONGO.
BY JOACHIM JOHN MONTEIRO, ASSOCIATE OF THE ROYAL SCHOOL OF MINES, AND CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY. IN TWO VOLUMES. Vol. II. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. London: MACMILLAN AND CO. 1875. All Rights Reserved. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS....
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CHAPTER I.COUNTRY FROM AMBRIZ TO LOANDA—MOSSULO—LIBONGO—BITUMEN—RIVER DANDE—RIVER BENGO—QUIFANDONGO.
CHAPTER I.COUNTRY FROM AMBRIZ TO LOANDA—MOSSULO—LIBONGO—BITUMEN—RIVER DANDE—RIVER BENGO—QUIFANDONGO.
The distance from Ambriz to Loanda is about sixty miles, and the greater part of the country is called Mossulo, from being inhabited by a tribe of that name. These natives have not yet been reduced to obedience by the Portuguese, not from any warlike or valorous opposition on their part, but entirely from the miserable want of energy of the latter in not taking the few wretched towns on the road. Incredible as it may appear, it is nevertheless a fact that to the present day the Mossulos will not
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CHAPTER II.CITY OF LOANDA—NATIVES—SLAVERY—CONVICTS—THEATRE AND MORALS.
CHAPTER II.CITY OF LOANDA—NATIVES—SLAVERY—CONVICTS—THEATRE AND MORALS.
The city of St. Paul de Loanda is situated in a beautiful bay, backed by a line of low, sandy cliff that at its southern end sweeps outward with a sharp curve, and terminates at the water’s edge in a bold point, on which is perched the Fort of San Miguel ( Plate X. ). The “Cidade Baixa,” or lower town, is built on the shore of the bay, on the flat sandy ground thus enclosed on the land side. The “Cidade Alta,” or high town, is built on the high ground, at the end of which stands the fort above n
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CHAPTER III.DIVISION OF ANGOLA—WRETCHED PAY OF OFFICIALS—ABUSES BY AUTHORITIES—EVILS OF HIGH IMPORT DUTIES—SILVER MINES OF CAMBAMBE—JOURNEY TO CAMBAMBE—EXPLORATION—VOLCANIC ROCKS—HORNBILL—THE PLANTAIN-EATER—HYENAS.
CHAPTER III.DIVISION OF ANGOLA—WRETCHED PAY OF OFFICIALS—ABUSES BY AUTHORITIES—EVILS OF HIGH IMPORT DUTIES—SILVER MINES OF CAMBAMBE—JOURNEY TO CAMBAMBE—EXPLORATION—VOLCANIC ROCKS—HORNBILL—THE PLANTAIN-EATER—HYENAS.
The province of Angola is divided by the Portuguese into four governments, viz., Ambriz (or Dom Pedro V.), Loanda, Benguella, and Mossamedes. These are again subdivided into districts, each ruled by a military “chefe” or chief subordinate to the governors of each division, and these in their turn to the Governor-General of the province at Loanda. In this great extent of country under Portuguese rule, from the difficulty and delay in the communications with the central head of military and civil
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CHAPTER IV.PROVINCE OF CAZENGO—GOLUNGO ALTO—GOLD—WILD COFFEE—IRON SMELTING—FORMER MISSIONARIES—CUSTOMS—NATIVES—PRODUCTIONS.
CHAPTER IV.PROVINCE OF CAZENGO—GOLUNGO ALTO—GOLD—WILD COFFEE—IRON SMELTING—FORMER MISSIONARIES—CUSTOMS—NATIVES—PRODUCTIONS.
The farthest inland district in Angola under the rule of the Portuguese was that of Cassange, but a successful revolt of the natives against the oppression of the Portuguese “chefes” led to its being abandoned a few years ago. Malange is now the farthest point, the two next being Pungo Andongo and Duque de Bragança; the latter is at present of no value or importance whatever. The Portuguese traders are, however, established in considerable force at Cassange, as well as at Malange and Pungo Andon
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CHAPTER V.RIVER QUANZA—CALUMBO—BRUTO—MUXIMA—MASSANGANO—DONDO—FALLS OF CAMBAMBE—DANCES—MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS—QUISSAMA—LIBOLLO.
CHAPTER V.RIVER QUANZA—CALUMBO—BRUTO—MUXIMA—MASSANGANO—DONDO—FALLS OF CAMBAMBE—DANCES—MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS—QUISSAMA—LIBOLLO.
The River Quanza is the gem of the Portuguese possession of Angola. South of the great River Zaire, or Congo, it is the only river navigable for any distance, and is the natural highway to the most fertile and healthy countries of the interior, yet, such has been the apathy of the Portuguese, and so utterly and culpably neglectful have they been in developing the vast resources of their rich possessions, that, till the year 1866, only an insignificant amount of produce or trade came to Loanda by
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CHAPTER VI.COUNTRY SOUTH OF THE RIVER QUANZA—CASSANZA—NOVO REDONDO—CELIS—CANNIBALS—LIONS—HOT SPRINGS—BEES—EGITO—SCORPIONS—RIVER ANHA—CATUMBELLA.
CHAPTER VI.COUNTRY SOUTH OF THE RIVER QUANZA—CASSANZA—NOVO REDONDO—CELIS—CANNIBALS—LIONS—HOT SPRINGS—BEES—EGITO—SCORPIONS—RIVER ANHA—CATUMBELLA.
The country south of the River Quanza is very different from that to the north of it, just described, not only in its physical aspect, but also in the tribes of natives inhabiting it. The evidences of a former degree of civilization, and of the good work of the old missionaries, are not here visible, and I should almost imagine that this part of Angola was not under their care to anything like the same extent. From June 1861 to the end of 1863, I was engaged in working two copper deposits at Cui
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CHAPTER VII.TOWN OF BENGUELLA—SLAVE-TRADE—MUNDOMBES—CUSTOMS—COPPER—HYENAS—MONKEYS—COPPER DEPOSIT—GYPSUM—HORNBILLS—BIRDS—FISH—LIONS.
CHAPTER VII.TOWN OF BENGUELLA—SLAVE-TRADE—MUNDOMBES—CUSTOMS—COPPER—HYENAS—MONKEYS—COPPER DEPOSIT—GYPSUM—HORNBILLS—BIRDS—FISH—LIONS.
The town of Benguella is situated on a level plain near the sea, and backed, at a distance of about six miles, by a line of hills. The appearance of the town from the sea is rather picturesque; to the north, at a distance of little more than a mile, is seen the green belt of forest marking the course of the River Cavaco, a white sandy bed in the dry, and a broad, shallow, running stream in the rainy season. The town is large, consisting of good houses and stores, irregularly distributed over sev
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CHAPTER VIII.COUNTRY BETWEEN BENGUELLA AND MOSSAMEDES—MOSSAMEDES—CURIOUS DEPOSITS OF WATER—HYENAS—WELWITSCHIA MIRABILIS—MIRAGE.
CHAPTER VIII.COUNTRY BETWEEN BENGUELLA AND MOSSAMEDES—MOSSAMEDES—CURIOUS DEPOSITS OF WATER—HYENAS—WELWITSCHIA MIRABILIS—MIRAGE.
The country between Benguella and Mossamedes abounds with large animals: elands, spring-bok, and other antelopes, zebras, wild buffaloes, &c. The natives affirm positively that the eland and other antelopes in their wild state capture and eat small birds. It would be curious to ascertain if this strange habit or taste in a herbivorous animal is true, or has been observed in South Africa, where these animals are still more abundant. I was once fortunate enough to see, from a low rocky rid
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CHAPTER IX.CLIMATE—COOKERY—DRUNKENNESS—FEVER—NATIVE TREATMENT—ULCERS—SMOKING WILD-HEMP—NATIVE REMEDIES.
CHAPTER IX.CLIMATE—COOKERY—DRUNKENNESS—FEVER—NATIVE TREATMENT—ULCERS—SMOKING WILD-HEMP—NATIVE REMEDIES.
The climate of Angola is not so hot as might be expected from its latitude. Near the coast the sea-breeze, which sets in about nine or ten o’clock in the morning, and lasts till sunset or an hour later, always blows strongly, and consequently cools the burning rays of the sun in the hot season: it is very often too strong to be agreeable, blowing everything about in the houses, which always have the doors and windows open. The thermometer in the hot season is seldom more than 80° to 86° Fahrenhe
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CHAPTER X.CUSTOMS—BURIAL—WHITE ANT—WASPS—FRUITS—SCENTS—SPITTING-SNAKE—SCARABÆUS—LEMUR.
CHAPTER X.CUSTOMS—BURIAL—WHITE ANT—WASPS—FRUITS—SCENTS—SPITTING-SNAKE—SCARABÆUS—LEMUR.
There are several peculiar habits and customs, common to the natives of Angola, that I have not mentioned in the preceding chapters. One of the most striking and pleasing is their regard for their parents and old people. These are always consulted before they undertake a journey, or hire themselves as carriers or for other service, and they always bid them good-bye, and leave them some little present of beads or rum. On returning to their towns they immediately see their fathers and mothers and
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CHAPTER XI.CONCLUSION.
CHAPTER XI.CONCLUSION.
I have now brought to a close my description of a small portion of the terra incognita, comparatively speaking, of Africa, and it may not be out of place, in conclusion, to note those results of my long experience in Angola that bear on the important questions of the civilization and mental advancement of the negro race, and the material development of tropical Africa. I have given the reasons that have convinced me of the rudimentary quality of the negro intellect, naturally corresponding to th
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APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
The habit of the negro, when employing European languages, of using an absurd and inflated style is well known, and I cannot help attributing this peculiarity to the effect of the specifically constituted mind of the race. The natives of Angola are no exception to this rule, and I have often been amused at their writings in Portuguese. I cannot better illustrate this very curious characteristic than by transcribing the following pamphlet, written by a highly educated native of Sierra Leone: “ Th
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