Travels In The Central Parts Of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, And Laos, During The Years 1858, 1859, And 1860

TRAVELS IN THE CENTRAL PARTS OF INDO-CHINA (SIAM), CAMBODIA, AND LAOS, DURING THE YEARS 1858, 1859, AND 1860.

BY THE LATE M. HENRI MOUHOT, FRENCH NATURALIST. IN TWO VOLUMES.— Vol. I. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, 1864. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS....

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DEDICATION.

TO THE LEARNED SOCIETIES OF ENGLAND, WHO HAVE FAVOURED WITH THEIR ENCOURAGEMENT THE JOURNEY OF M. HENRI MOUHOT TO THE REMOTE LANDS OF SIAM, LAOS, AND CAMBODIA. I trust that the members of those scientific societies who kindly supported and encouraged my brother in his travels and labours, will receive favourably the documents collected by the family of the intrepid traveller, whom death carried off in the flower of his age, in the midst of his discoveries. Had he been able to accomplish fully th

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PREFACE.

As will be seen, this work is compiled from the private letters of M. Mouhot to his family and friends, and from his journal. I had also the benefit of the paper destined by my brother for the Archæological Society of London, on the interesting ruins of Ongcor. Among the documents which, thanks to the active kindness of Sir R. Schomburgh, British Consul at Bangkok, of Dr. Campbell, R.N., and of M. D’Istria, French Consul, reached me as early as possible after my brother’s death, I found valuable

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MEMOIR OF M. HENRI MOUHOT.

Alexander Henri Mouhot was born at Montbéliard on 15th May, 1826, of parents not rich, but respectable. His father occupied a subordinate post in the administration under Louis Philippe and the Republic, and expended nearly the whole of his salary in the education of his two sons, even undergoing many privations for that purpose. His mother, a teacher of considerable merit, whose memory is held in respect by all who knew her, died young, greatly through overwork and fatigue, incurred in providin

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CHAPTER I.

The Voyage—First Impressions of Siam; and of Bangkok, its Capital—Reception in the Palace—The Two Kings of Siam. On the 27th April, 1858, I embarked at London, in a sailing ship of very modest pretensions, in order to put in execution my long-cherished project of exploring the kingdoms of Siam, Cambodia, and Laos, and visiting the tribes who occupy the banks of the great river Mekon. I spare the reader the details of the voyage and of my life on board ship, and shall merely state that there were

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CHAPTER II.

Geography and History of the Kingdom of Siam. The name of Siam was first heard in Europe in the year 1502. Nine years after Alphonso d’Albuquerque had conquered the peninsula of Malacca, some intercourse took place between Portugal and Siam, which, however, was interrupted by the long wars between this country and the Burmese. In 1632 an English vessel touched at the ancient capital Ayuthia. Shortly afterwards the Portuguese at Goa sent a party of Dominican and Franciscan missionaries to Siam, a

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CHAPTER III.

Voyage up the Menam to Ayuthia the ancient Capital—The Ruins—Excursion to Mount Phrabat—its Temple—its Sacred and Geological Footsteps—Saraburi and Patavi. After my visits of ceremony to the two kings, I hastened to finish the preparations for my voyage. I bought a light boat capable of holding all my chests, reserving a narrow space for myself, and another for the bipeds and quadrupeds forming my adopted family—viz., two rowers, one of whom also officiated as cook, a parroquet, an ape, and a do

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CHAPTER IV.

Chantaboun—its Products and Commerce—Appearance of the Country—The Isles of Ko-Man—Isles of Patates—The Island of Ko Kram—Paknam Ven—Manner in which the Apes play with the Crocodiles. On the 4th January, at eight o’clock in the morning, we arrived at the town of Chantaboun, which stands on the bank of the river, six or seven miles from the mountain range. The Christian Annamites form nearly a third of the population, the remainder being composed of Chinese merchants, and some heathen Annamites a

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CHAPTER V.

Life in the Hill-Country—Mount Sabat—Hunting—Tigers—Serpents—Rich Vegetation of Chantaburi. Here I am, once more installed in the house of a good old Chinese, a pepper-planter, whose hospitality I enjoyed on my first visit to the place, two months ago. His name is Ihié-How, but in Siamese he is called Apait, which means uncle . He is a widower with two sons, the eldest eighteen, a good young man, lively, hardworking, brave, and persevering. He is already much attached to me, and is desirous of a

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CHAPTER VI.

Return to Chantaboun—Excursion to Battambong—The Islands of Koh Kong—Island of Phu Quoc—Beautiful Prospect in the Gulf of Komput—Cambodia—Commerce of these Countries—Miserable State of the People—Visit to the King of Cambodia. Immediately on my return to Chantaboun, where I was again received with open arms by the good Abbé Raufaing, a French missionary associated as colleague with Father Larmandy, I began to collect information as to the best route to Battambong, the chief town of a province of

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CHAPTER VII.

Details respecting Cambodia—Udong, its present Capital—Interviews with the Second King. All my preparations for departure having been completed, the Abbé Hestrest came on the morning of the day fixed, to invite me to breakfast with him; after which he offered to take me in his own boat to Kompong-Bay, where the promised vehicles were to meet us. When we arrived there, none were to be seen. We applied to the first mandarin, who, chewing his betel, displayed his black teeth with a stupid grin, and

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CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Udong—Train of Elephants—Pinhalu—Kind treatment by the Missionaries—The Great Lake of Cambodia—Touli Sap—The Thiâmes—Speculations as to their Origin—Ancient Kingdom of Tsiampa—Israelite Traditions of the Thiâmes or Tsiampois. On the 2nd July, having taken our usual morning repast of rice, we were ready to set off, and were only waiting for the waggons and elephants promised me by the king. They were not long in arriving, and we passed through the city amidst an immense crowd of pe

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CHAPTER IX.

The Great Bazaar of Cambodia, Penom-Peuh—The River Mekon—The Island Ko-Sutin—Pemptiélan—Pump-Ka-Daye, on the Borders of Cambodia—Some further Notes on the Country—Father Guilloux—Journey to Brelum and the Neighbouring Country inhabited by the Savage Stiêns. We left Pinhalú at eleven, and by evening had reached the great bazaar of Cambodia, the distance being about eighteen miles. I had little to buy, for M. Miche and M. Arnoux had insisted on filling my boat with rice and dried fish, sufficient

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CHAPTER X.

Sojourn of Three Months among the Savage Stiêns—Manners of this Tribe—Products of the Country—Fauna—Manners of the Annamites. I resided nearly three months among the savage Stiêns. Is this too short a period to enable me to form an opinion of them? One would think so, on hearing Father Guilloux repeat often that, although he has lived here two years, he is yet far from knowing all their superstitions and devilries . We are surrounded by forests, which are infested with elephants, buffaloes, rhin

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CHAPTER XI.

Return to Pinhalu and Udong—The Great Lake Touli-Sap—Meeting with Nine Elephants—Recent Acts of Oppression towards the People—On the eventual Regeneration of the People—The Province of Battambong—Grand Ruins. On the 29th I took leave of my amiable fellow-countryman and friend, M. Arnoux, to, I may venture to affirm, our mutual regret, and set off, accompanied by Father Guilloux, who had some business at Pinhalú. They both wished me to remain with them until Cochin China was open, and I could tra

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Preliminary Remarks.

Nokhor, or Ongcor, was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Cambodia, or Khmer, formerly so famous among the great states of Indo-China, that almost the only tradition preserved in the country mentions that empire as having had twenty kings who paid tribute to it, as having kept up an army of five or six million soldiers, and that the buildings of the royal treasury occupied a space of more than 300 miles. [23] In the province still bearing the name of Ongcor, which is situated eastward of the

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The Temple of Ongcor.

Before arriving at Ongcor from Battambong, having previously crossed the great lake from the mouth of either of the currents which traverse both those localities, you come upon a stream, which, in the dry season, you ascend for a couple of miles, and reach a spot where it becomes somewhat larger, forming a small natural basin, which serves the purpose of a kind of harbour. From this place a raised causeway, still passable at the present day, and extending as far as the limit which the waters att

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Ruins in the Province of Ongcor. Mount Bakhêng.

A temple, about 100 metres in height, built of limestone has been erected on the top of Mount Bakhêng, which is situated two miles and a half north of Ongcor-Wat, on the road leading to the town. At the foot of the mountain are to be seen, among the trees, two magnificent lions, 20 centimetres in height, and each formed, with the pedestals, out of a single block. Steps, partly destroyed, lead to the top of the mountain, whence is to be enjoyed a view so beautiful and extensive, that it is not su

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Charles the Bold.

HISTORY OF CHARLES THE BOLD, DUKE OF BURGUNDY. By JOHN FOSTER KIRK. With Portrait. 2 Vols. 8vo. 30 s. “Mr. Kirk has produced a work which is quite entitled to rank with the writings of his two predecessors (Mr. Prescott and Mr. Motley), with whom he has, both in his merits and his faults, a certain family resemblance. He has studied his subject, not only with patient industry, but with that strong sense of its pre-eminent interest and importance which seems almost disproportionate to a bystander

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Biblical Dictionary.

THE DICTIONARY OF THE BIBLE; ITS ANTIQUITIES, BIOGRAPHY, GEOGRAPHY, AND NATURAL HISTORY. BY VARIOUS WRITERS. EDITED BY WM. SMITH, LL.D., Editor of the Classical and Latin Dictionaries. COMPLETE IN 3 VOLS. With Illustrations. Medium 8vo. 5 l. 5 s. [LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS.] “These volumes have no confined and merely learned interest. They are creditable to the information, research, and thought of the writers, but not less to their power of clear teaching. They have acquainted themselves with recent

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Illustrated Prayer Book.

THE BOOK OF COMMON PRAYER, ILLUSTRATED WITH ORNAMENTAL BORDERS, INITIAL LETTERS, AND WOODCUTS. The Embellishments of the present edition consist of Ornamental Borders, Scrolls, Foliage, Head-pieces and Vignettes, and many hundred Initial Letters printed in Red and Black , together with Historical Engravings, to illustrate the Gospels, from the works of the early Masters. List of Engravings. EDITED, WITH NOTES EXPLAINING THE ORDER AND HISTORY OF THE OFFICES, By Rev. THOMAS JAMES, M.A., Late Honor

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Recent Biographies.

MEMOIR OF BISHOP BLOMFIELD, D.D., WITH SELECTIONS FROM HIS CORRESPONDENCE. By Rev. ALFRED BLOMFIELD, M.A. With Portrait. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 18 s. LIFE OF THE RIGHT HON. WILLIAM PITT. WITH EXTRACTS FROM HIS MS. PAPERS. By EARL STANHOPE. Second Edition , revised. With Portraits. 4 Vols. Post 8vo. 42 s. LIVES OF BRITISH ENGINEERS. FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD DOWN TO THE DEATH OF ROBERT STEPHENSON. With an Account of their Principal Works; and a History of Inland Communication in Britain. By SAMUEL SMIL

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Recent Travels.

PALERMO AND NAPLES IN 1859-61. WITH NOTICES OF VICTOR EMMANUEL, FRANCIS II., AND GARIBALDI. By ADMIRAL SIR RODNEY MUNDY, R.N., K.C.B. With Frontispiece. Post 8vo. 12 s. TRAVELS IN PERU AND INDIA, While collecting Cinchona Plants, and introducing the culture of Bark into India. By CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM. With Map and Illustrations. 8vo. 16 s. BRITISH COLUMBIA &amp; VANCOUVER’S ISLAND. THEIR FORESTS, RIVERS, COASTS, GOLD FIELDS, AND RESOURCES FOR COLONISATION. By COMMANDER MAYNE, R.N. THE RUINED

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Forthcoming Works.

THE PEOPLE’S EDITION OF H.R.H. the Prince Consort’s Principal Speeches and Addresses. WITH AN INTRODUCTION, GIVING SOME OUTLINES OF HIS CHARACTER. With Portrait. Fcap. 8vo. One Shilling. “It must be obvious to the reader that the writer has received the most valuable and important aid from those who, by their constant intercourse with the Prince Consort, could best appreciate the high qualities in him which shone forth in domestic life—from persons in the Royal Household, who saw him daily—from

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HANDBOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS.

Murray’s Handbook for Sicily, Palermo, MESSINA, CATANIA, SYRACUSE, ETNA, AND THE RUINS OF THE GREEK TEMPLES. Map and Plans. Post 8vo. Murray’s Handbook for Paris. A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO THAT METROPOLIS AND ITS ENVIRONS. Map and Plans. Small 8vo. Murray’s Handbook for Ireland, FROM ORIGINAL SURVEY AND JOURNEYS IN THAT COUNTRY. Map. Post 8vo. Murray’s Handbook for Portugal &amp; Lisbon. A New and Revised Edition. Map. Post 8vo. Murray’s Knapsack Guide to Belgium and the Rhine. Murray’s Knapsa

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