Algeria And Tunis
Frances E. Nesbitt
15 chapters
4 hour read
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15 chapters
ALGERIA AND TUNIS
ALGERIA AND TUNIS
PAINTED & DESCRIBED BY FRANCES E. NESBITT PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK · LONDON · MCMVI...
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CHAPTER I THE CITY OF EL DJEZAIR
CHAPTER I THE CITY OF EL DJEZAIR
Algiers is such a city of contrasts, of dark memories and present prosperity, of Christian slavery and Christian rule, brilliant sun and tropical rain, of wide modern streets and networks of narrow alleys, with the slow dignity of movement of the old race and the rapid vivacity of their new rulers, that it makes all the difference in the world in what spirit and at what moment you arrive. At times the city is all sunshine, “a diamond in an emerald frame,” as the Arabs call it; at others only a d
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CHAPTER II THE COUNTRY-SIDE
CHAPTER II THE COUNTRY-SIDE
Whatever people may think of Algiers itself,—whether they are most attracted by its old-world side, or its up-to-date would-be Paris quarter, with the wide, handsome boulevards and quays, the arcaded streets, the crowded squares, or even by the endless pleasure of treasure-hunting in the many curiosity shops, and the yet more endless bargaining that this entails,—still it is generally with a sigh of relief that they turn from the noise and clatter of the stone-paved streets, and wind their way t
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CHAPTER III THE GATES OF THE DESERT
CHAPTER III THE GATES OF THE DESERT
During the winter on the coast of Algeria no one can complain of a deadly monotony of cloudless skies or of a too burning sun. There is no cause to grumble over dazzling light, nor any reason to wish for smoke to veil an ugly object in the landscape, for often the rain does that—indeed, not content with merely veiling, it blots it out entirely for a time, though in the end the sunshine is sure to win. Yet truly the winter of 1903-1904 did give an excuse to the grumblers, who had enough to do in
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CHAPTER IV THE QUEEN OF THE DESERT
CHAPTER IV THE QUEEN OF THE DESERT
On leaving the gorge of El Kantara, the train passes straight out on to the desert, where it runs on a level with the tops of the trees which rise from the oasis below. The line itself, an unpretentious track, without fence or protection of any kind, scarcely shows on the sandy waste. The flocks and herds and the passing Arabs are expected to look out for themselves. Yet, however unassuming it may be, there is something incongruous in the sight of a railway winding through and round these mounta
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CHAPTER V LIFE ON AN OASIS
CHAPTER V LIFE ON AN OASIS
Enthusiasm about a desert life comes quickly, so perfect is the view from the roof; but disillusion follows as easily, with the desire to explore in every direction. Difficulties and drawbacks then begin to appear; for this is not Egypt. Here are no rows of big white donkeys and picturesque groups of smiling boys waiting your pleasure. No dromedaries growl and grumble as their riders mount, though now and then some unwary tourists may be seen on pack-camels, fondly imagining that they are learni
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CHAPTER VI TIMGAD
CHAPTER VI TIMGAD
“Leaving Biskra is like dying—a thing we must all get through somehow,” an American lady wailed, partly because she “just hated going,” but still more because of her fate at being condemned to get up at the unearthly hour of 5 A.M. to catch the first train. This used to be the only train in the day, but now matters have so far progressed that on three days in the week a new one has been added as far as Batna, which saves much tribulation on the part of those who wish to see Timgad and cannot bea
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CHAPTER VII CONSTANTINE
CHAPTER VII CONSTANTINE
Travellers’ tales and descriptions of Constantine are full of such boundless admiration that they are really little more than a chorus of applause and wonder. The consequences are not quite what might be expected, because it is impossible to believe that all this praise is justified. Sober truth seems hidden by flights of fancy. So the sceptical mind prepares itself and fears no disappointment or disillusion, heedless of the fact that it is the unexpected that always happens. In this case such w
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CHAPTER VIII ON THE WAY TO TUNIS
CHAPTER VIII ON THE WAY TO TUNIS
The next stage on the long journey to Tunis is Hammam Meskoutine, or the Accursed Baths. Now the name alone ought to be sufficient to scare strangers away, but it seems to have precisely the opposite effect. Many, indeed, come for one night only, and linger on from day to day, loth to leave a place so unusual and attractive. The wayside station, half-hidden by graceful eucalyptus trees, leads to no village, for the simple reason that there is none—nothing but the baths, a farm or two, and a few
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CHAPTER IX TUNIS
CHAPTER IX TUNIS
Through darkness broken by hardly a gleam of light, and silence stirred by no sound but the throbbing of an overworked engine, in much weariness and at night, Tunis is reached at last with a suddenness which almost startles the traveller. The hours that passed so quickly in the morning, grow in length with the day, and after sundown every minute counts, and the hours in the dimly lighted carriages seem interminable; for travel in this part of North Africa is tedious and uncomfortable to a degree
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CHAPTER X LIFE IN TUNIS
CHAPTER X LIFE IN TUNIS
Even in the quiet and silent streets of Tunis, where every footstep echoes between the high white walls, the hum of the distant hive can still be heard. The streets even of the rich quarter are never straight, but meander in and out, and are withal so narrow as to fit to a nicety the lumbering old carriages that convey their stately owners about the city. No two vehicles can ever attempt to pass each other, but have to manœuvre down side alleys. Now and then the red blinds are tightly closed, wh
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CHAPTER XI CARTHAGE
CHAPTER XI CARTHAGE
The realm of the Queen of the Seas is now desolate—desolate, but untouched by sadness. Tragedy and doom are hidden beneath the brightness of summer flowers and the promise of an abundant harvest. The ruins that remain are not fine enough in themselves to call forth memories of a glorious past. The greatness is gone. Nothing is now left to speak of bygone ages with an insistent voice; nothing strong enough to break down the dulness and create an interest in ancient history. Those who expect to ha
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CHAPTER XII SOUSSE AND EL DJEM
CHAPTER XII SOUSSE AND EL DJEM
A refreshing uncertainty, almost amounting to a touch of adventure, gives zest to plans for a trip southwards. Beyond the one undisputed fact that the inn at Sousse leaves nothing to be desired, information is vague and scanty. The journey opens in a fashion that promises much. There are only two trains in the day, and both are inconvenient. One starts too early and the other too late. The railway carriages with their narrow seats and hard cushions proclaim by sheer discomfort the unfrequented r
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CHAPTER XIII THE SACRED CITY
CHAPTER XIII THE SACRED CITY
Seven visits to the sacred city of Kairouan are equivalent for the devout Mussulman to one pilgrimage to Mecca. A pleasant alternative for those who wish to gain a high degree of sanctity at a small cost, for since the railway simplified the journey there are neither terrors nor difficulties to overcome. Picturesque hill towns are passed on the way, and also the first of the chain of Chotts , or shallow salt lakes, almost or quite dry in summer, strange reminders of the time when the Mediterrane
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Beautiful Books about the East
Beautiful Books about the East
EACH CONTAINING FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, REPRODUCED IN THE SAME STYLE AS THOSE IN “ALGERIA AND TUNIS” PAINTED AND DESCRIBED BY R. TALBOT KELLY, R.B.A. BURMA CONTAINING 75 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR Price 20s. net. Burlington Magazine. —“Mr. Kelly says but little of Burmese history and architecture, but he has wandered away from the beaten track, and draws the jungle as well as he draws pagodas, rendering without harshness the difficult greens of tropical foliage and the blaze of
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