Natchez, Symbol Of The Old South - free ebook by Nola Nance Oliver

Natchez SYMBOL OF THE OLD SOUTH

HASTINGS HOUSE · PUBLISHERS · NEW YORK MONTEIGNE— Stairhall This book is dedicated to Louise and Mary. Copyright, 1940, by Nola Nance Oliver. Printed in the U. S. A....

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Foreword

Natchez derives its name from the sun-worshiping Indian tribe, the Natchez, who were the original owners of the area on which the city is located. It is situated in Adams county, in the southwestern part of the state of Mississippi, on bluffs 200 feet high overlooking the Mississippi River, and is midway between Memphis and New Orleans. It is accessible by railway, steamboat, motor highway and airway. It is particularly proud of the Natchez Trace Parkway, a modern concrete road over an old India

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The Natchez Tribe

A bronze plaque of a handsome Indian chief has been erected in a granite wall overlooking the great “Father of Waters”, in memory of the Natchez Indian tribe from which the city of Natchez derives its name. The Natchez Indians were of Aztec origin and were in possession of the Natchez country when the French came in 1700. They were sun-worshiping Indians, and their great chief proclaimed himself “brother to the Sun”. White Apple village, ten miles south of Natchez, was headquarters of the Natche

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Natchez Trace

Opportunity for easy travel, over trails that were once Indian foot paths, is offered now to motorists on perfect concrete highways. Modern roads, which slowly evolved from dirt roads to paved highways, stretch from Nashville, Tennessee, in a continuous smooth concrete ribbon to Natchez, on the great Mississippi River. Days when the beauty of the Southland could be viewed only from a steamboat deck; days when transportation of passenger and freight could be handled only by oxcart or slow stage c

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Airlie

Built prior to 1790, “Airlie” is a rambling, wide-spread building of cottage type, on a rolling elevation at the end of Myrtle street. It attracts attention through its unusual simplicity of exterior. Its architecture is entirely different from other ante-bellum homes in the community. This great departure from the usual style is due to the age of Airlie. Its original building date is ahead of all the available history of Natchez. Additions have been made, from time to time, until today Airlie s

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Arlington

Where Natchez’ Main street ends, the great wide gates of Arlington open. Live oaks with pendant gray moss line the driveway, which winds through beds of vari-colored irises to one of the most distinctively attractive ante-bellum homes in the South. Of Southern Colonial type, constructed of red brick with stately white Tuscan columns supporting the upper story gallery, Arlington today, more than a century old, presents a magnificent appearance. The great carved entrance door leading to the spacio

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Auburn

Built in 1812, a full century and a quarter ago, by Dr. Stephen Duncan, “Auburn” mansion is noted today as in bygone historic days for its architectural beauty and the natural beauty of its surrounding acres. Auburn is a magnificent red brick structure with great white columns supporting its broad front galleries. The bricks were made on the premises by slave labor. On the first floor are spacious drawing rooms, a large dining room, a family dining room, library, smoking room, and two hallways.

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Belmont

Sturdy as the Rock of Gibraltar stands this imposing Neo-Greek mansion. It was known originally as “Cleremont”, and was built in the early 40’s by one Loxley Thistle. Storm and strife have beaten against the doors of this stronghold but it was built after a disastrous tornado which put a great fear in the minds of builders of that period, and Belmont (as it was renamed) was constructed to resist fierce storms, although at the same time exquisite lines of beauty were maintained. This place with i

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Belvidere

On Homochitto street, in the shadow of magnificent “Dunleith”, is a simple white cottage, “Belvidere”, which for generations has been the home of the Henderson family. Originally Belvidere was the center of a fourteen acre tract of wooded land which was the property of Christopher Miller, who was secretary to the Spanish Governor of Natchez, Gayoso de Lemos. The Hendersons are descendants of Christopher Miller. Simple and unostentatious this small cottage stands with her very toes, as it were, o

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Brandon Hall

This old home is not in the immediate Natchez area but its owner and his descendants are so closely allied with all that is Natchez that Brandon Hall is rightfully considered a Natchez asset and is included in its list of ante-bellum homes. Gerard Brandon of Ireland came to Natchez prior to the Revolutionary War, and more than a century ago “Selma Plantation”, from whose acres came the grounds of Brandon Hall, was built by him. Mr. Brandon was a successful farmer and was one of the original peca

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Cherry Grove

Built of primeval timbers, cut and hewn by slaves on the place, the old home at Cherry Grove plantation “sits tight” secured by dependable wooden pegs. It was built in 1788 when time and expense of labor were of little consideration, and nails and modern building equipment were not available. Pierre Surget of La Rochelle, France, built this Spanish style house, on a Spanish land grant, for his wife, Katherine d’Hubert, and from this couple have come some of Natchez’ most prominent families. Mr.

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The Briers

Varina Howell and Jefferson Davis Were Married in This Room. Could Jefferson Davis and his beloved wife, Varina, return to The Briers today they would be pleased to find it in a perfect state of preservation. “The Briers”, a typical story-and-a-half country home, was given to Louise Kemp at the time of her marriage to William Burr Howell, who was a cousin of Aaron Burr. And here Varina Howell was born May 7, 1826. This home was the scene of Varina’s marriage to Jefferson Davis on February 12, 18

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The Burn

Another old home that was once situated in the center of vast acreage is “The Burn”. Streets have been cut through, lots sold and residences erected until today this quaint old home, originally the residence of John P. Walworth of Ohio, is in the very heart of the residence district of Natchez. While the “old Walworth home”, as it was so long known, was built about 1834, its most interesting history is concerned with the war of 1861-65. The Burn is a homey-looking house of the story-and-a-half c

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Choctaw

Such dilapidated grandeur cannot be found in all the country around as one beholds at Choctaw. “Built to endure and determined not to fall” seems to ring from every stone and pillar of this gigantic old mansion. Once it was the center of a city block but now on the busy corner of Wall and High streets traffic of every sort brushes its very door. Because this property was so long owned and occupied by a Natchez philanthropist, Alvarez Fisk, “Choctaw” is known far and wide as the “old Fisk home”.

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Concord

“Concord” was built in 1788 by Don Gayoso de Lemos, representative in the Natchez Territory of the King of Spain. The name, “Concord”, was chosen because the Governor felt that this word expressed the status of his people living in peace and amity. The dwelling was two-and-a-half stories. The lower floor was of brick and the upper portion was frame. There was a driveway beneath the long flight of steps at the front entrance. The house was richly furnished with importations from Spain. A few year

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Cottage Gardens

When “Cottage Gardens” was built, some hundred and forty years ago, Natchez was young, and homes at that time were of compact, inconspicuous design. The land upon which this home stands was a part of the original Spanish grant to Don Jose Vidal, a young Spanish nobleman. “Cottage Gardens” was so named because of the beautiful gardens surrounding the cottage. It is recorded that these gardens were destroyed during the War Between the States when Union soldiers used the grounds as a pasture for th

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D’Evereux

By recent engineering survey Highway No. 61 from Memphis to New Orleans passes the grounds that once formed a part of D’Evereux acres. Motorists on this highway, when within a mile of Natchez, can see this mansion, in perfect architecture, standing like a great Greek temple near the roadway. Sweeping tropical moss hangs from the sentinel oaks which guard this magnificent home. Built in 1840 for William St. John Elliott and his wife, it was given her family name, “D’Evereux”, and this home, one o

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Cherokee

One of the most attractive of Natchez’ ante-bellum houses is the recently reclaimed Cherokee, built in 1794 by Jesse Greenfield on land acquired under Spanish grant. In 1810 David Michie purchased the property and added the classic front. The present owner, Mr. Charles Byrnes, has reclaimed the old Irish Manor House and its grounds, using wherever possible the style and materials of the original. Cherokee stands on a great elevation overlooking Natchez. It is across the street from Choctaw and w

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Dunleith

This house, built in 1849 by Gen. Dahlgreen, is situated in perfectly kept terraced grounds, surrounded by symmetrically planted oak trees which have grown to giant size. A long driveway from the tall iron gate at the street entrance to the porch steps bring one to “Dunleith”, a veritable Greek temple. Dunleith is almost one hundred years old. The land on which it stands is part of a Spanish grant of 700 acres, and was the site of the original home which was destroyed by fire (caused by lightnin

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Edgewood

Edgewood, erected in 1855, shared with “Mount Repose” the distinction of being a part of the original Bisland estate. It is a simple plantation home, located on the Pine Ridge road, and is today occupied by direct descendants of the original owner, who maintain the estate as nearly as possible in accord with the original plans. Situated on rolling greensward with a declivity at the rear, the house is two stories in front and three in the back. Straight, square lines are observed in its architect

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Elgin

The history of “Elgin” dates from about 1838 when it was owned by the Dunbar family, and was named Elgin for the Dunbar estate in Scotland. It is about eight miles from Natchez, and for many years was the home of the Jenkins family, whose descendants are prominent citizens of Natchez. Mr. Jenkins was a member of the Academy of Natural Science, and gave much time and scientific attention to the grounds of Elgin. The old-fashioned frame building with spacious halls and wide galleries stands on a k

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Elms

Amid great elm trees and sturdy liveoaks is a wide, rambling house, its galleries bannistered with graceful iron grill encircling three sides of the structure. This is “Elms”, it is the home of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Kellogg. It is a close neighbor of the “Greenleaves” estate. Elms was for a long time known as “the old Drake home”. Its intricate rambling porticos, unusual stairway, and beautiful gardens came to the Kelloggs by fortunate inheritance. Mrs. Kellogg is a direct descendant of the Drake

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Ellicott Hill

Artists and architects from far and near come to see the quaint old house, known as “Connelly’s Tavern”, on Ellicott Hill. It is a sturdy, perfectly proportioned old house, built of brick and wood, its timbers said to have come from abandoned sailing vessels. The style of architecture is early Spanish. It stands on a high elevation, overlooking with aristocratic disdain the industrial enterprises which have come in during the years to supplant the once exclusive neighborhood of its original outl

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Elmscourt

A short drive from Natchez, over a modern highway which was originally an Indian trail, through iron gates into a virgin forest, brings one a first glimpse of Elmscourt. This mansion was erected about the year 1810 by Louis Evans, who was the first Sheriff of Adams county. He occupied it until 1851, at which time Frank Surget bought it for his daughter Jane as a gift when she married Ayers P. Merrill. It is said that Frank Surget was one of the three multi-millionaires in the United States at th

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Glenfield

Turn to the right on the first gravel road leading from Canal street and within a stone’s throw of the paved highway nestles a quaint old brick cottage surrounded by giant oaks and cedars. It is “Glenfield”, the home of Mrs. Lee Field and her family. Glenfield was built in 1812 by Charles B. Green. It is of Gothic design and is constructed of red brick and hand-hewn timbers. Like many of the old homes, “Glenfield” demonstrates two distinct types of architecture. One part is low ceilinged with br

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Glenwood

Conditions at Glenwood are not conducive to pride in the hearts of Natchez people, and yet it is doubtful if any tourist leaves Natchez without hearing, in some way, about this dilapidated old place. As all things are good or bad by comparison, it may not be amiss when depicting the glory of Natchez to glimpse the other side. A Northern tourist upon seeing Glenwood (known today as “Goat Castle”) said, “Well, I don’t know whether to cry or swear.” Glenwood is the home of Richard Dana, a man of ar

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Gloucester

A mile drive from the city limits of Natchez, along a roadway where moss-draped boughs overlap into a verdant shelter, brings one in view of a stately red brick mansion. It is Gloucester. Still half concealed by giant oaks and tropical growth, it seems a great ruby in a gray-gold setting. Gloucester is surrounded by 250 acres of farm land and virgin timber. It was built about 1800, and is of solid brick construction. Huge Corinthian columns support spacious galleries across the broad front. The

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Hawthorne

On the famous Natchez Trace Highway, within calling distance of the Lower Woodville road, through a narrow gateway flanked by giant oaks, is a quaint little cottage, “Hawthorne”. It is the old Southern Planter type home, a story-and-a-half. A beautiful double front door with panels of early period thin glass and an exquisitely wrought fanlight above give an atmosphere of friendliness to the entrance. Architects interested in the unusual find charm in the hand-hewn stairway which rises from the b

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Hope Farm

A few years ago when “Hope Farm” fell into the hands of Mr. and Mrs. Balfour Miller it was truly “getting a break” for rehabilitation. Today when one steps into this old Spanish house, built about 1775, there breathes from every crevice and corner the true atmosphere of the Old South. The original portion of Hope Farm, its English wing, is believed to have been built by Marcus Haller. The front, the straight, low, Spanish portion, was built by the Spanish Governor, de Grand Pre, about the year 1

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Homewood

It required five years to build this palatial mansion of brick, cement, and iron grill, and until recently “Homewood”, exterior and interior, was in a perfect state of preservation—just as it was the day of its completion, more than 75 years ago. Homewood was destroyed by fire, January 2, 1940. By reason of its solid masonry (built to withstand the storms), its architectural lines, and the grace and magnificence of its iron trimmings, architects of note from all over the country came to inspect

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Inglewood

A Southern planter’s typical home, “Inglewood” stands today as the perfection of a beautiful dream recalled from crumbling ruins of years long gone. More than a century ago this quaint old story-and-a-half house was built by Gustavus Calhoun, who practiced medicine in Natchez Territory in 1829—back in the days when calls were made on horseback and the doctor carried along his miniature drug store in his “saddle bags”. Dr. Calhoun was a friend and contemporary of Dr. Stephen Duncan of “Auburn”. I

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Jefferson College

Founded in 1802, Jefferson Military College is the oldest college for boys in the State of Mississippi, and one of the oldest in the United States. It was here that the South’s beloved Jefferson Davis, who became President of the Confederacy, attended school when he was ten years old. After the battle of New Orleans Gen. Andrew Jackson rested his victorious army on the campus of this college, which is located six miles from the city of Natchez. Mississippi was a territory when the college came i

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King’s Tavern

In the days when Indians roamed the territory of Natchez, block houses were built by the white settlers who came that way. These were sturdy, well-fortified houses built to protect occupants against Indian outbreaks. Such is King’s Tavern—an inconspicuous, faded, old wooden structure on a high brick foundation. Although unostentatious, King’s Tavern is important. According to the records it is the oldest building in this part of the South. Parts of St. Augustine, Florida, are somewhat older. Its

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Lansdown

Lansdown has been the home of the Marshall family for more than eighty-five years. Like many other magnificent plantation homes around Natchez, Lansdown was a wedding gift to Mr. and Mrs. George Marshall, whose descendants of the same name own and occupy today this comfortable Georgian type house. Lansdown is an unpretentious but quite substantial structure with a broad front portico enclosed by artistic grill bannisters fashioned in Greek pattern. Broad, spreading steps lead down to a brick wal

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Linden

The origin of Linden seems lost to history although it is known to have existed as early as 1790. It came to ancestors of the present owners a hundred years ago, and has been owned and occupied by the A. M. Feltus family for several generations. Nature seems to exert herself to give to Linden a perfect setting. Surrounding the magnificently constructed house, with its 98 feet of gallery, are dozens of oak trees, draped in long gray moss which sweeps the very eaves of the dwelling. Standing in th

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Greenleaves

“Greenleaves”, built prior to 1812, is a town house—a great rambling cottage type of architecture in the very heart of Natchez. It is as sturdy as the old gnarled oaks which seem to hold it in their protecting boughs. It represents comfort, luxury, and beauty without ostentation or pretense. The halls and rooms are palatial in size and appointments. The house as originally constructed shows that it was built to endure. It was remodeled in the early 40’s by the grandfather of the present owners.

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Longwood

Longwood stands in a moss-tangled forest. It is a monument to a dream that was interrupted by the tragedy of the War Between the States in 1861-’65. It was to have been a gorgeous structure of Moorish design, planned by Sloan of Philadelphia, who in those days had no equal as artist-architect. Longwood was being built for Dr. Haller Nutt. Landscape gardeners came from abroad, and even today rare imported shrubs and trees form a part of the dense growth around the unfinished gardens. When the hou

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Magnolia Vale

A few hundred feet below the city of Natchez, along the river edge, is an extension of land on which the first Natchez was situated. This old town was known as “Natchez Under the Hill”. The commercial center of the old Natchez has passed into decay. The buildings that sheltered the river men, the gambling “joints” that housed the riff-raff of those steamboat days, have long since tumbled into the river. Driving down a long and steep shelf of land, at the north end of what was old Natchez, one co

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Mount Repose

Here is a huge, comfortable, old-fashioned, country gentleman’s home—in appearance and in literal fact “Mount Repose”. The name aptly describes the first impression of every visitor. The house is situated on an elevation, surrounded by broad green acres. Built in the early 1800’s, Mount Repose has been the scene of much that is interesting in the story of Natchez. It is part of the original estate of William Bisland, a Scotsman. From this family comes the author Elizabeth Bisland who through clo

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Melmont

’Way back in 1839, when Henry Basil Shaw married Mary Elizabeth Lattimore, profound consideration was given to naming the homes and estates of Natchez. It is almost certain that the mistress of Melmont pondered long and consulted her family before deciding the name. She chose to use the three initials of Mary Elizabeth Lattimore to form the first part of the name, “Mel”, and added “mont” because the mansion stood mounted on a rolling acreage. Thus “Melmont” was coined. Melmont is unlike other Na

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Melrose

The Drawing Room. The old-fashioned “courting set” had a center seat for the chaperon, who was ever present during boy and girl visits. Melrose, called “the perfect ante-bellum home”, is located about a mile from Natchez city limits. This model mansion, built in the early 40’s, owned and occupied by Mr. and Mrs. George M. D. Kelly, is, by courtesy of the owners, opened for inspection during the annual Pilgrimage celebration of the Natchez Garden Club. In an entire day one can only glimpse Melros

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Monmouth

Near “Linden”, on a velvety lawn guarded by great oaks, stands a Grecian-type mansion. This is Monmouth, now owned and maintained by Mrs. Hubert Barnum. Mrs. Barnum, owner of “Arlington”, the adjoining estate, is probably the only Natchezian who owns and operates two great ante-bellum homes. Historically Monmouth is known as the home of John A. Quitman and his wife, Eliza. General Quitman, a hero of national renown, raised the first American flag in Mexico. He purchased this mansion and fifteen

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Monteigne

“Monteigne” is a recently acquired possession of one of Natchez’ most valued families, Mrs. Mary Worrell Kendall and Mr. and Mrs. William Kendall. It was built in 1855 as the home of Gen. William T. Martin of the Confederacy, whose features are carved on Stone Mountain as a representative of the State of Mississippi. Hand-hewn timbers discovered when excavating the foundation for “Monteigne” lead to the belief that this was the site of a home destroyed during the Indian Massacre of 1729. The pla

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Myrtle Terrace

Substantial and compact, this Colonial cottage is one of the reclaimed small ante-bellum homes of Natchez. Built in the 1830’s, it is more than a century old. In 1844 Myrtle Terrace was purchased by the late L. N. Carpenter, who, in turn, sold it to the renowned Captain Thomas Leathers of steamboat fame. The agreement to buy stipulated in minute detail that the property must be put in “ship shape”, carefully specifying “hinges on the windows, fastenings on the cellar door, latches on the gates,

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Propinquity

In the long ago, when each Southern plantation was identified by a specially chosen name, the naming of homes around Natchez was a great event. When land was opened and a home built, a recorded name was given, and neither time nor change of owner or occupant changed the name of that plantation. Interesting indeed are the stories of the names selected. “Propinquity” was named in 1810 by its owner, Brigadier General Leonard Covington, and was so named because its lands adjoined Fort Dearborn where

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Ravenna

At the end of Union street, on ten acres of ground which edges a great ravine or bayou, stands Ravenna, the present home of Mrs. Richard I. Metcalf. Ravenna was built more than one hundred years ago by the Harris family. It has stood the test of time and of the tornado of 1840. It stands today in the superior dignity of perfection. The property was acquired by the family of its present owner about eighty years ago. Ravenna shows every evidence of an inherited love of flowers. This comes from And

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Oakland

Among the numerous ante-bellum homes of Natchez which are today owned and occupied by lineal descendants of the original owners “Oakland” stands preeminent. Built in 1838 for Catherine Chotard Eustis, the granddaughter of Major Stephen Minor, this home remains in the possession of the Minor family. The present owner is Mrs. Jeanne Minor McDowell. Major Minor was the last Governor of the Natchez District under Spanish rule. Oakland is located in secluded grounds, and, as its name implies, stands

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Richmond

Life at Richmond today seems a continuous house party. The present owners (seven daughters, one son, and one granddaughter of the late Shelby Marshall) are the fifth and sixth generations of the illustrious Levin R. Marshall family to own and occupy this old and hospitable mansion. It contains 41 rooms. The architecture of Richmond shows three distinct styles. The original center building, 153 years old, is of Spanish design; the front, 105 years old, is of Greek design; and 77 years ago the squ

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Rosalie

In the Natchez country “Rosalie” is a magic name. It conjures up memories of startling days that were, and stimulates the imagination to see Indians and soldiers and people from foreign lands. The home, “Rosalie”, bears the name and is situated near the site of Fort Rosalie, which was built by the French in the early 1700’s. No home in Natchez is of greater historical importance than Rosalie. The building was started about 1820 by Peter B. Little, and required seven years for completion. All mat

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Parsonage

Under the very eaves of old “Rosalie” with its historic background of Fort Rosalie, stands a sturdy square structure known as “The Parsonage”. It is a brick building with an English basement, the entrance leading by broad steps to the elevated first floor. While of no particular historic interest, The Parsonage has its story. It was built by Peter Little, the owner and builder of Rosalie, and bears the same evidence of sturdy construction exemplified in the larger home. Like most men, Mr. Little

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Stanton Hall

In the heart of the city of Natchez stands an imposing mansion, “Stanton Hall”. It is surrounded by a half-acre of rolling lawn which is enclosed by an iron fence. This strong iron fence is in a delicate design and is itself worth a small fortune. Stanton Hall is the most handsome old home, and probably the most expensive, in the entire Natchez area. It is not of great historical value but it well represents the architectural grandeur of the Old South. It was built during the 1851-56 period. As

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Weymouth Hall

Unusual and peculiar is the construction of Weymouth Hall. It was purchased by Col. John Weymouth in 1821 and was rebuilt in 1852 by the Bullock family. It is a three-story brick building overlooking the Mississippi River, and has for its back view acres of Natchez cemetery. The upper stories are reached by a winding stairway. The third floor is a ballroom. During the War Between the States this room was used as headquarters for Union soldiers because it gave a perfect view of the river and surr

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Ruins of Windsor

Twenty-two stone Corinthian columns stand today as remnants of a grand example of ante-bellum Greek Revival architecture. Windsor was built in 1861 by S. C. Daniel, a wealthy Mississippi planter who also had large land holdings in Louisiana. It had five stories, topped by an observatory. It is said that Mark Twain, when a Mississippi steamboat pilot, charted his course at this point by the lofty tower of Windsor. The house and its furnishings were destroyed by fire in 1890....

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Windy Hill Manor

Nine miles from Natchez, on the Liberty road, in a picturesque, moss-draped grove, stands “Windy Hill Manor”, home of the Misses Stanton. The records show that Windy Hill originally belonged to Joseph Ford. It was under the ownership of Benjamin Osmun, a close friend of Aaron Burr, that the place received its great historical interest. After Aaron Burr had been accused of treason against his own country and released on $5,000 bail, he was invited to be the guest of his old friend Benjamin Osmun

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