29 chapters
8 hour read
Selected Chapters
29 chapters
DIPLOMATIC DAYS
DIPLOMATIC DAYS
BY EDITH O'SHAUGHNESSY [MRS. NELSON O'SHAUGHNESSY] AUTHOR OF A Diplomat's Wife in Mexico ILLUSTRATED HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS NEW YORK AND LONDON Copyright, 1917, by Harper & Brothers Printed in the United States of America Published November, 1917...
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
FOREWORD
FOREWORD
The letters which form this volume were written in a period of delightful leisure, when I was receiving my first impressions of Mexico. The might and beauty of the great Spanish civilization, set in a frame of exceeding natural loveliness, kindled new enthusiasms, and to it all was added the spectacle of that most passionately personal of human games, Mexican politics. Though I was standing on its threshold, I had little prescience of the national tragedy which later I was to enter into complete
1 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
I
I
First impressions of the tropics—Exotic neighbors on shipboard—Havana—Picturesque Mayan stevedores—Vera Cruz—The journey up to Mexico City Off the Florida Keys , On board the Monterey, May 1, 1911 . Precious mother: From the moment of arrival at the docks I began to have a suspicion of the tropics, which, however, with everything else, was in abeyance as we rounded Cape Hatteras. During that period an unhappy lot of passengers spent the hours more or less recumbent. We left New York on a day bea
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
II
II
First visit to the Embassy—Adjusting oneself to a height of eight thousand feet in the tropics—Calle Humboldt—Mexican servants—Diplomatic dinners—Progress of Maderista forces. May 7, 1911. Yesterday proved very full, though I had thought to engage it, as far as the outer world was concerned, by a single visit to the Embassy. N. came home to lunch with the announcement that it was Mrs. Wilson's day, so I went back with him, thinking to greet her for a moment only, but she insisted on my returning
21 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
III
III
Mexico in full revolution—Diaz's resignation wrung from him—Memories of the "King in Exile"—President de la Barra sworn in—Social happenings—Plan de San Luis Potosí. May 23d. My first "Tuesday" was accompanied by a drenching rain, but the colleagues mostly showed up, noblesse oblige , each giving some rather disquieting items about the political situation, according to his special angle. Mrs. Wilson, who always does what it is "up" to her to do, of course came. We are the only nation here having
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
IV
IV
First reception at Chapultepec Castle—First bull-fight—A typical Mexican earthquake—Madero's triumphal march through Mexico City—Three days of adoration June 4th. Yesterday we went to the De la Barras' first reception, a tea neither formal nor informal, at beautiful Chapultepec, lifted high up on the historic hill overlooking the city and the beauteous valley, in its gorgeous setting of mountains and volcanoes. There is a pretty grotto-like modern entrance at the foot of the hill which takes vis
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
V
V
Dinner at the Japanese Legation—The real history of the Japanese in Mexico—Dinner at the Embassy—Coronation services for England's king—The rainy season sets in. June 16th. Last night dinner at the Japanese Legation. A very elaborate and beautiful centerpiece arrangement of tiny lake and grove decorated the table, and the food was very good. That was the Belgian touch. They are used to la bonne chère . All the dinners now are a sort of hail and farewell for Von Hintze and ourselves newly arrived
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
VI
VI
Speculations as to the wealth of "the Greatest Mexican"—Fourth of July—Madero as evangelist—The German minister's first official dinner with the Maderos as the clou . July 1st. There are great speculations as to Diaz's wealth, and millions are put to his account with a light hand. [5] Some say he has twenty millions in Spain, in Paris, in Wall Street. I am sure I hope he has feathered his nest—both he and Limantour. As I remarked before, the Romans that made the roads probably did, but they made
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
VII
VII
The old monastery of Tepozotlan—Lively times on the Isthmus—The Covadonga murders—The Chapultepec reception—Sidelights on Mexican housekeeping—Monte de Piedad July 21st. Yesterday General Crozier, Mr. de Soto, and myself motored out to the old church and monastery of Tepozotlan. The morning was indescribably white, with a dash of diamond-powder on its lovely face, and from the very door every turn of the wheel took us over historic ground. We turned down the celebrated Puente de Alvarado, where
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
VIII
VIII
Elim's fourth birthday party—Haggling over the prices of old Mexican frames—Zapata looms up—First glimpse of General Huerta—Romantic mining history of Mexico. August 3d. Again it is the blessed anniversary. It seems but a moment of time since my arms received my son. He asked me, the first thing this morning, at what time he would be four years old. When I told him it had already happened he set up a dreadful howl. It appears he had expected to feel himself becoming four, as he informed me when
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
IX
IX
The Vírgen de los Remedios—General Bernardo Reyes—A description of the famous ceremony of the "Grito de Dolores" at the palace September 1st, evening. To-day was the feast of the Vírgen de los Remedios, once so important in "New Spain," and, as I had planned, Mr. de Soto and I made the pilgrimage there. It was the first church Cortés built in Mexico, on the site of the Aztec temple, where he and his battered remnant halted to bind up their wounds after the retreat from Mexico City in the "Melanc
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
X
X
The uncertainty of Spanish adverbs—Planchette and the destiny of the state—Madame Bonilla's watery garden-party—De la Barra's "moderation committee"—Madero's "reform platform" September 21st. To-day we go for a farewell lunch at the Austrian chargé's, who is leaving almost immediately. His cousin, the new Austrian minister, Riedl von Riedenau, and his American wife, have arrived and are to have his house. I have been out very little lately—only to a dinner at Hohler's and a luncheon at the Embas
8 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XI
XI
Election of Madero—The strange similarity between a Mexican election and a Mexican revolution—The penetrating cold in Mexican houses—Madame de la Barra's reception—The Volador . Sunday evening, October 1st. This morning we started out in good season for a Sabbath run, shaking the election dust from our feet, or rather wheels, skimming out through the shining city, which yesterday afternoon had had what may be its last good bath till next June. We went out the broad Tlalpan road, black with motor
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XII
XII
Dia de Muertos—Indian booths—President de la Barra relinquishes his high office—Dinner at the Foreign Office—Historic Mexican streets—Madero takes the oath Dia de Muertos , November 2d . The black-hung churches and the streets are full of those mindful of their dead. I, too, of my "dead in life" as well, thinking how of such are the Kingdom of Heaven. I went to the little Church of Corpus Cristi, opposite the Alameda, walking through the booths the Indians have spread there since generations, du
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XIII
XIII
Uprising in Juchitan—Madero receives his first delegation—The American arrest of Reyes—Chapultepec Park—Side lights on Juchitan troubles—Zapata's Plan de Ayala November 8th. I was planning to start for Tehuantepec to-morrow, when a letter came from Aunt L. saying that the general in charge of the Federal troops was giving orders to his army from her porch, the Pan-American Railway was damaged, bridges were destroyed, and cannon were being dragged into town by oxen and placed in front of her gard
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
MEXICO
MEXICO
Thou Italy of the Occident, Land of flowers and summer climes, Of holy priests and horrid crimes; Land of the cactus and sweet cocoa; Richer, than all the Orient In gold and glory, in want and woe, In self-denial, in days misspent, In truth and treason, in good and guilt, In ivied ruins and altars low, In battered walls and blood misspilt; Glorious gory Mexico. Glorious gory Mexico. Evening. Among our visits to-day was one on Madame Creel. They have a very large and handsome house in the Calle d
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XV
XV
The first Christmas in Mexico City—Hearts sad and gay—Piñatas—Statue to Christopher Columbus. Christmas Day, 1911. My first thought was of my precious mother, l'absence est le plus grand des maux . I went to midnight mass at the French church with Madame Lefaivre. The Adeste Fideles was beautifully sung, and I thought of the millions of throats, all over the glad, sad earth, singing the peace-bringing air. I was so happy that of the people assembled around the tree three knew you and spoke of yo
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XVI
XVI
Off for Tehuantepec—A journey through the jungles—The blazing tropics—Through Chivela Pass in the lemon-colored dawn—Ravages of the revolution—A race of queens January 1, 1912. My first thought flies to you this morning. I have sorrowed, smiled, in other years, perhaps learned to pray, so mayhap my heart is ready for 1912. N. has gone to the Palace, where the President receives the gentlemen of the Diplomatic Corps; this afternoon Madame Madero receives both messieurs et dames . Last night a ple
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XVII
XVII
Gathering clouds—"Tajada" the common disease of republics—Reception at Chapultepec—Madero in optimistic mood—His views of Mexico's liabilities to America January 17th. I have not written since my word in the train. Too busy taking up daily threads, and there have been various dinings and lunchings out. On my return I found yours saying that another yellow-stamped instalment of the Arabian Nights Entertainment had come in on your breakfast-tray. Just put Mexicans instead of Persians, or whatever
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XVIII
XVIII
Washington warns Madero—Mobilization orders—A visit to the Escuela Preparatoria—A race of old and young—The watchword of the early fathers February 1st. To-day a military lunch—De Chambrun, Captain Sturtevant, just leaving, and our new military attaché, Burnside, just arrived. Speculations as to the potentialities of the situation put a bit of powder into the menu, and the appearance of small fat ducks awakened a few hunting reminiscences, but mostly it was martial. In the afternoon I made some
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XIX
XIX
A tragic dance in the moonlight—Unveiling George Washington's statue—The Corps Diplomatique visits the Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan—Orozco in full revolt February 10th. We were all awakened last night by a terrible, inhuman, mewing sound coming from the patio . It reminded us of "The White Leper" of Kipling. The moon was chiseling every stone and plant in the courtyard; a small light was in the porter's room, where a struggle seemed to be going on. All of a sudden a tall, stark-naked Indian,
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XX
XX
Madero shows indications of nervous tension—Why one guest of Mexico's President did not sit down—A novena with Madame Madero—Picture-writing on maguey—Picnic at El Desierto—San Fernando March 3d. Yesterday Mr. Taft issued a wise proclamation directing citizens of the United States to comply strictly with the neutrality laws between our country and Mexico till there is a change in conditions, which gave rise to various expressions of satisfaction at a large luncheon at Madame Simon's. I sat by Mr
24 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXI
XXI
Mexico's three civilizing, constructive processes—A typical Mexican family group—Holy Week—"La Catedral" on a "canvas" of white flowers—Reply of the Mexican government April 3d. Yesterday Aunt L. received a telegram necessitating her immediate presence in San G. Things are getting lively there again. I saw her off in the hurrying, crowded station with a pang, and the house seemed quite empty when I got back.... I have begun a very interesting edition of the letters of Cortés by Archbishop Lorenz
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXII
XXII
The home of President Madero's parents—Señor de la Barra returns from Europe—Zapatistas move on Cuernavaca—Strange disappearances in Mexico—Oil—The President and the railways April 23d. Have been busy to-day looking over things and getting boxes and trunks off to be repaired. A feeling of migration is in the air. A lot of damage was done getting to Mexico. A locksmith asked fifteen francs to open that small trunk where I keep my papers and give me a new key. He took the fifteen francs, but broug
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXIII
XXIII
The "Apostle" begins to feel the need of armed forces—A statesman "who is always revealing something to somebody"—Nursing the wounded at Red Cross headquarters May 4th. As you will see from the inclosed clipping, posters all over town containing the same, Madero is in a bad condition. Reports from Huerta's army are that disease, typhus, and black smallpox are rife. Burnside is up there now watching operations. Huerta states that he will not lead his three thousand troops to certain death against
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXIV
XXIV
One Indian's view of voting—Celebrating the King's birthday at the British Legation—A single occasion when Mexican "pillars of society" appear—Reception at Don Pedro Lascurain's Sunday evening, June 2d. We had a very lively picnic to-day at the Peña Pobre, all gathering at Calle Humboldt, where we waited vainly for Professor Baldwin. At last, after fruitless telephoning, we started through the shining city, out the Tlalpan road, past the Country Club, where the links were black with golfers, thr
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXV
XXV
Orozco and his troops flee toward the American border—A typical conversation with President Madero—Huerta's brilliant campaign in the north—The French fêtes—San Joaquin July 4th, 4 p.m. Home from a motor trip and luncheon with Aunt L. at the Country Club, and now getting ready for a rather inexplicable reception at Chapultepec. In the evening there is to be a big theatrical representation to celebrate the glorious Fourth. July 5th. Orozco [54] and his troops are fleeing to the north toward the A
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXVI
XXVI
Balls at the German Legation and at Madame Simon's—Necaxa—A strange, gorge-like world of heat and light—Mexican time-tables—The French trail August 17th. Unwonted festivities here. For two nights running we have "tripped the light fantastic." Night before last Madame Simon gave a big ball, and last night there was one at the German Legation. The dancing world was out in full swing, bumping into a varied assortment of wall-flowers, tropical and temperate. Handsome favors and elaborate suppers at
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
XXVII
XXVII
A luncheon for Gustavo Madero—Celebrating the Grito at the Palace—The President's brother explains his philosophy—Hacienda of San Cristobal—A typical Mexican Sunday dinner September 3d. The funcion I gave yesterday went off with a good deal of snap. Everybody in town was there, and the house filled to bursting. Elsie S. and I brewed the classic Grosvenor punch ourselves and arranged masses of flowers everywhere. Probably it will be the last gathering I shall have, sic transit , etc. Madame Mader
29 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter