22 chapters
5 hour read
Selected Chapters
22 chapters
PREFACE
PREFACE
This plain and simple narrative of a year spent by a refined woman in the realm of the dreaded Frost King has been written only after persistent and urgent pressure from friends, by one who shrank from publicity, and who reluctantly yielded to the idea that her experiences might be of interest to others besides her immediate friends. I have been requested to write a few words of introduction; and while there may be some to whom it might occur that I was too much interested to perform this task p
3 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER I NORTHWARD BOUND
CHAPTER I NORTHWARD BOUND
First Sight of Greenland—Frederikshaab Glacier—Across the Arctic Circle—Perpetual Daylight—Sunlit Disko—The Climb to the Ice-cap—Dinner at Inspector Anderssen’s—A Native Dance—From Disko to Upernavik—Upernavik—The Governor and his Wife—The Duck Islands—Gathering Eggs and Eider-down and Shooting Ducks. Wednesday, June 24. We have sailed and tossed, have broken through the ice-barriers of Belle Isle Straits, and once more ride the rolling swells of the broad Atlantic. Our three days’ jam in the ic
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER II IN THE MELVILLE BAY PACK
CHAPTER II IN THE MELVILLE BAY PACK
Melville Bay—On the Edge of the Dreaded Ice-pack—Fourth of July—Butting the Ice—Accident to the Leader of the Expedition—Gloom on the “Kite”—Blasting the “Kite” out of a Nip—A Real Bear and a Bear Hunt—A Chase on the Ice—A Phantom Ship—Free of the Pack and in the North Water at Last—The Greenland Shore to Barden Bay—First Sight of the Arctic Highlanders. Thursday, July 2. We are opposite the “Devil’s Thumb,” latitude 74° 20′, and now, at 8 P. M. , are slowly making our way through the ice which
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER III ESTABLISHING OURSELVES
CHAPTER III ESTABLISHING OURSELVES
Arrival at McCormick Bay—Selecting the Site for the House—Temporary Quarters—Hurrying the Erection of the House—White Whales—Departure of the “Kite”—Alone on the Arctic Shore—A Summer Storm—Arctic Picnicking—The First Birthday and the First Deer—Birthday-dinner Menu—Departure of the Boat Party for Hakluyt and Northumberland Islands after Birds and Eskimos—Occupations during their Absence—Return of the Party with an Eskimo Family. Sunday, July 26. Mr. Peary is getting along nicely. His nights are
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IV HUNTS AND EXPLORATIONS
CHAPTER IV HUNTS AND EXPLORATIONS
Ikwa and his Family—Present of a Mirror—August Walrus Hunt—Preparations for Sending out the Depot Party—Departure for Head of McCormick Bay—First Herd of Reindeer—Exciting Experiences in Tooktoo Valley—Packing the Things up the Bluffs—The Inland Ice Party Off—Return to Redcliffe—A Foretaste of Winter. These Eskimos were the queerest, dirtiest-looking individuals I had ever seen. Clad entirely in furs, they reminded me more of monkeys than of human beings. Ikwa, the man, was about five feet two o
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER V BOAT JOURNEYS AND PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER
CHAPTER V BOAT JOURNEYS AND PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER
Return to Head of McCormick Bay for Deer—Footprints on the Shore—Successful Deer Hunt—Meeting with the Returning Inland Ice Party—Astrup and Gibson Make a Second Attempt on the Ice-cap—Attempted Boat Trip up Whale Sound—Stopped by the New Ice—Exciting Battle with Walrus—Dr. Cook and Matt Tramp to Nowdingyah’s—Last of the Boat Trips—Setting up the Stove—My Experience with a Snow-slide—Final Return of the Inland Ice Party—Preparing Redcliffe for Winter. We were all pretty tired the next day, and M
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VI WINTER UPON US
CHAPTER VI WINTER UPON US
McCormick Bay Frozen over—First Sledge Trip to the Head of the Bay for Deer—Shaky New Ice—First Aurora—The Strange Light on the Opposite Shore—First Visit from the Natives—Return of our Hunting-party with Ten Deer—More Natives—Second Severe Snow-storm of the Season—Still more Native Visitors—Great Amusement over the White Woman—Farewell to the Sun. Tuesday, October 6. McCormick Bay is frozen over so as to support the dogs and sledge, and Ikwa has been on several seal-hunts. He finds one of the h
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VII ESKIMO VISITORS
CHAPTER VII ESKIMO VISITORS
Our Visitors Leave for their Homes—Departure of a Party to Build a Stone Hut in Tooktoo Valley—Arrival of the Most Northerly Family in the World—The Last Hunting-party of the Season Goes to Five-Glacier Valley—Still the Natives Come—Mama’s Birthday—Finishing Touches to our Winter Quarters—Eclipse of the Moon—Beginning of the Winter Routine—Matt Installed as Cook—Thanksgiving. Wednesday, October 28. Yesterday Nowdingyah and his piccaninny, a little girl about two and a half years old, put in thei
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VIII ARCTIC FESTIVITIES
CHAPTER VIII ARCTIC FESTIVITIES
Creeping Toward the Winter Solstice—Household Economy—The Holidays—Christmas Amusements—Christmas Dinner to the Natives—New-Year Festivities—Moonlight Snow-shoe Tramps—Reception in the South Parlor. Wednesday, December 2. Thanksgiving has come and gone. We had a very pleasant time, and enjoyed our dinner as much as any one at home. The only difference between day and night at Redcliffe is that during the day in addition to the bracket-lamps we have a large Rochester lamp burning. The huskies, as
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IX THE NEW YEAR
CHAPTER IX THE NEW YEAR
The New Year Ushered in with a Fierce Storm—Return of the Noon Twilight—We fail to feel the Intense Cold—Native Seamstresses and their Babies—Some Drawbacks to Arctic Housekeeping—Peculiar Customs of the Natives—Close of the Winter Night. Saturday, January 9. The storm which began December 29 has continued until this morning. Now it looks as though it might clear off. The new snow is about twenty-four inches deep on a level, and there are drifts as high as I am. Fortunately we had a good ice sup
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER X SUNSHINE AND STORM
CHAPTER X SUNSHINE AND STORM
Return of the Sun—Furious Storm and Inundation at Redcliffe—Repairing the Damage—Verhoeff’s Birthday—Fears for Dr. Cook and Astrup—Rescue of Jack—Battling with an Arctic Hurricane—Down with the Grippe—Dazzling March Scenery—The Commander has the Grippe—Astrup and Gibson reconnoiter after Dogs—The Widow returns a Bride—The Snow begins to Melt—Sunning Babies on the Roof. Sunday, February 14. At home this is St. Valentine’s day. Here it is simply Sunday, and for me a lonely one. This morning Mr. Pe
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XI SLEDGE JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF
CHAPTER XI SLEDGE JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF
The Start from Redcliffe—Our Team—Temporary Village on Northumberland Island—A Crazy Woman—A Never-to-be-forgotten Night in a Native Snow-igloo—From the Snow village to Keati—Across Whale Sound to Netchiolumy—An Eskimo Metropolis—Aged Dames—From Netchiolumy to Ittiblu—Midnight Glories—The Solitary Habitation at Ittiblu and its Inhabitants—My Coldest Sleep in Greenland—Nauyahleah, the Ancient Gossip—A Native Graveyard—From Ittiblu to the Head of Inglefield Gulf—Meeting with a Traveling-party. Mon
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XII THE SLEDGE JOURNEY—(Continued)
CHAPTER XII THE SLEDGE JOURNEY—(Continued)
From Tawanah’s Igloo to the Great Heilprin Glacier—The Little Matterhorn—A Wet Night—Ptarmigan Island—“As the Crow flies” for the Eastern Bastion of Herbert Island—A Nap in the Sunshine—Back at Redcliffe—A Busy Week of Preparation for the Start on the Inland Ice—Canine Rivals. We unloaded our sledge, and, with Kudlah as our driver, continued the exploration of Inglefield Gulf to its head. In spite of Kudlah’s having spent the entire time at Tawanah’s in eating seal, we had scarcely traveled a mi
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIII OFF FOR THE INLAND ICE
CHAPTER XIII OFF FOR THE INLAND ICE
The First Detachment of the Inland Ice-party leaves Redcliffe—Departure of the Leader of the Expedition—Rest after the Excitement—Arrival of the Ravens—Return of Gibson and Matt—Gloomy Weather—Daily Incidents at Redcliffe—Spring Arrivals of Eskimos—Eskimos imprisoned in their Igloos by a May Snow-storm—The First Little Auks—Open Water off Cape Cleveland—Harbingers of Summer—Myriads of Auks and Seals—Snow-buntings—Green Grass and Flies—Kyo, the Angekok. Saturday, April 30. The past week has been
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIV WEARY DAYS OF WAITING
CHAPTER XIV WEARY DAYS OF WAITING
Anxious Fears for the Inland Ice-party—A “Red-Letter” Day—Return of the Supporting-party with Good News—First Flowers—Job’s Comforters among the Huskies—An Attack of Homesickness—The Snow disappearing—My Confidante, the Brook—The Eider-ducks return—I stand my Watch with the Others—Matt crippled by a Frosted Heel—We are reduced to a Seal Diet—A July Snow-storm—Influx of Natives—Open Water reaches Redcliffe—Matt overhears a Native Plot to kill us. Monday, May 30. We had a great excitement about 8.
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XV MY CAMPING EXPERIENCE IN TOOKTOO VALLEY
CHAPTER XV MY CAMPING EXPERIENCE IN TOOKTOO VALLEY
Conclusion of the Murder Scare—A Fifteen-mile Walk along the Arctic Shore—Matt my Sole Companion—An Arctic Paradise—A Tramp with an Unpleasant Ending—Twenty-four Hours with Nothing to eat—In the Shadow of the Ice-cliffs—Fording a Glacial River—Safe in Camp again. Tuesday, July 12. Gibson arrived this morning, minus his sledge and his entire load, having been obliged to abandon them on account of hard traveling. He advises me to go to the head of the bay without delay, as the ice is even now in a
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVI “OOMIAKSOAK TIGALAY!”—THE SHIP HAS COME!
CHAPTER XVI “OOMIAKSOAK TIGALAY!”—THE SHIP HAS COME!
An Eskimo Messenger—“Oomiaksoak Tigalay” (the Ship has come)—Letters from Home—A Visit from Professor Heilprin—Distressing Possibilities—The “Kite” leaves for Smith Sound—Return of the “Kite”—Domestic Disturbances among the Natives—An Eskimo Woman and Girl disappear. Sunday, July 24. At five o’clock this morning, before I was really awake, I heard a sharp, shrill whistle, different from the notes of the birds that usually awake me, and before I could quite satisfy myself that it was not a bird I
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVII RETURN OF THE EXPLORERS
CHAPTER XVII RETURN OF THE EXPLORERS
End of my Weary Waiting—Mr. Peary returns “on Time”—Experiences of the Inland Ice-party—The Great Greenland Ice-cap—The “Kite” Aground—Landing through the Surf—Back at Redcliffe—The Natives regard the Commander and Astrup as Supernatural Beings. Saturday, August 6. From a half-sleep I was roused early this morning by the plash of oars and loud talking, and before I had fully grasped the idea that the professor’s party had returned, some one jumped over the rail on the deck just over my head, and
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVIII BOAT JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF
CHAPTER XVIII BOAT JOURNEY INTO INGLEFIELD GULF
The Sculptured Cliffs of Karnah—Luxuriant Vegetation—Stormy Weather—Anniversary Camp—My Kahlillowah—Crossing the Gulf in a Tempest—The Shelter of Academy Bay—Fury of the Arctic Winds—An Iceberg Breakwater—We reach Karnah again—Rounding Cape Cleveland—Fighting for Life and Shelter—Safe at Redcliffe. The weather was not very encouraging as we started from Redcliffe House on Tuesday, August 9, the strong wind of the two previous days having brought up heavy storm-clouds, which now hid the sun and h
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIX FAREWELL TO GREENLAND
CHAPTER XIX FAREWELL TO GREENLAND
Alarm about Mr. Verhoeff—A Search Instituted—Alone with Matt and the Native Women—No News—Return of the Search-parties—Poor Verhoeff—Packing up—I play Lady Bountiful—Pennsylvania’s Gifts to the Natives—Farewell to Redcliffe—Fossil-hunting at Atanekerdluk—Godhavn revisited—Godthaab—Eskimo Kayakers—Fire-swept St. John’s—Arrival at Philadelphia—Home again. Thursday, August 18. When we rejoined our men at midnight we learned from Dr. Cook that Verhoeff, who left us at Bowdoin Bay, had not yet return
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XX GREENLAND REVISITED
CHAPTER XX GREENLAND REVISITED
Along the Labrador Coast—Strange Passengers on the “Falcon”—Holsteinborg and Godhavn—The Quickest Passage of Melville Bay—Meeting with Old Friends—No Tidings of Verhoeff—Establishing Ourselves at Bowdoin Bay—Deaths among the Eskimos—A Rich Walrus Hunt—Smith Sound and the Northern Ice-pack—Polaris House—Departure of the “Falcon.” Anniversary Lodge, Bowdoin Bay, Greenland, August 20, 1893. The reader who has followed me through my Arctic experiences of 1891–92 may be interested to know how we foun
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
THE GREAT WHITE JOURNEY FROM McCORMICK BAY TO THE NORTHERN SHORE OF GREENLAND AND RETURN
THE GREAT WHITE JOURNEY FROM McCORMICK BAY TO THE NORTHERN SHORE OF GREENLAND AND RETURN
SAILING OVER THE INLAND ICE. According to my program, the 1st of May was to be the time for the start on the inland ice, and on the 28th of April, Astrup, Gibson, Dr. Cook, and the native men then at Redcliffe left with the last load of supplies for the head of McCormick Bay. The natives were to return after helping the boys carry the supplies to the top of the bluff; the boys themselves were to push forward with the work until I joined them. This I did on the 3d of May. When I left Redcliffe th
21 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter