The South American Tour - free ebook by Annie S. (Annie Smith) Peck

THE SOUTH AMERICAN TOUR

NORTH PEAK OF MT. HUASCARÁN, 21,812 FT. THIS PEAK, ASCENDED BY MISS PECK, SEPTEMBER 2, 1908, IS 1,500 FEET HIGHER THAN MT. McKINLEY....

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INTRODUCTION

I congratulate Miss Annie S. Peck, the publisher of this book, and those who consult or read it, upon the preparation of a work of this character. Interest in Latin America is now so rapidly growing throughout all the world, and especially in the United States, that a descriptive guide-book of this kind regarding the regions commonly visited by tourists has become an actual need; such a work by Miss Peck is a practical and timely contribution to the literature of the day. There are few persons b

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FOR EVERY ONE

To all Americans both of the Northland and of the South this book with due modesty is inscribed, in the hope that by inciting to travel and acquaintance it may promote commercial intercourse, with the resulting ties of mutual benefit and respect: in the hope, too, that the slender cord now feebly entwining the various Republics may soon draw them all into more intimate relations of friendship; at last into a harmonious Sisterhood, in which neither age nor size shall confer superior rights, but m

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FOREWORD

The South American Tour! “ Como no? ” “Why not?” as many Spanish Americans say when they wish to give hearty assent. Have you been around the world? Do you travel for pleasure or business? Whatever your object, whether your purse is full or you wish to fill it, the southern half of our hemisphere is a land which should not be ignored. What is there to see? May the journey be taken in comfort? These things shall be revealed in detail after a few general facts have been presented. Is the enjoyment

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CHAPTER 1 WHAT THE TOUR IS—HOW AND WHEN TO GO—WHAT IT COSTS

The South American Tour , rapidly becoming fashionable and popular, and about to be described, includes the most interesting and accessible portions of that continent,—its finest scenery, its greatest cities. A wonderful variety in the swiftly moving pictures prevents any dullness on the part of the intelligent traveler, who is ever kept alert for the continually fresh experiences of this remarkable journey. Where. My tourist party will be conducted first to Panama, where soon the sail from ocea

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CHAPTER II THE VOYAGE TO PANAMA

In 1903, before the United States’ occupation, there was no choice as to means of transport to the Isthmus. A single steamship company, that of the Panama Railroad, dispatched a vessel from New York once a week. Now there are four different lines with as many weekly sailings, besides one from New Orleans, a more convenient point of departure for many south of Mason and Dixon’s line. The four companies, all with headquarters in New York, will gladly furnish the latest information in regard to the

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Historical

This section of the New World was first visited in 1501 by Columbus, who touched at Nombre de Dios and Porto Bello east of Colon, perhaps sailing into Limon Bay; this he certainly did in 1502, naming the place Puerto Naos, Navy Bay, as it was called until recent years. It is just 400 years ago, September 25, 1513, that Vasco Nuñez de Balboa first saw the great Pacific, then named the South Sea,—not, as often said, from the hill near Gorgona, called Balboa, more properly the Cerro Gigante, but fr

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The French Canal

Various canal projects in the meanwhile have been cherished, though the building of the Panama Railroad, 1850-1855, had a deterrent effect on the enterprise; but in May, 1876, the Government of Colombia made a concession for the work to a French Company and operations soon followed. After surveys by Lieutenant Wyse a sea-level canal from Limon Bay to Panama by the pass at Culebra (meaning snake) was decided upon. January 10, 1881, Ferdinand de Lesseps, promoter of the Suez Canal, made the ceremo

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Panama City

Hotels. The Tivoli, $5.50 and up a day, American plan; the Central, $3.00 a day, American plan; the International, Metropole, and several others, smaller and less expensive, but some of them neat and respectable. Carriage Fare , 10 cents, U. S. currency, for one person, 20 cents for two, etc., in Panama City, or 20 cents and 40 cents silver, Panama money. Panama to Balboa docks, 50 cents U. S. currency. Automobile Tariff , first hour, for cars seating five, six, or seven persons, $5.00, $6.00, o

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Side Trip to Ecuador

Panama to Callao and Valparaiso —The Pacific Steam Navigation Company; and Compañia Sud-Americana de Vapores—each with sailings alternate Mondays; the Compañia Peruana de Vapores—sailings alternate Mondays to Valparaiso, alternate Sundays as far as Mollendo. Panama to Guayaquil —The Pacific Steam Navigation Company—two steamers weekly; one express direct, one accommodation, calling at Colombia and Ecuador ports. The Compañia Peruana de Vapores—fortnightly, on Sundays, direct. Guayaquil to Callao

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A Bit of History

Every one has heard of the Incas and of the conquest of Peru by Pizarro, but a few particulars of the remarkable subjugation of a great people will here be recalled. As early as 1524 Francisco Pizarro, incited by rumors at Panama of a country at the south marvellously rich in gold, for the purpose of exploration only, made his first expedition to Peru. Landing at Tumbes on the south shore of the Gulf of Guayaquil, he found an opulent city, whence he proceeded along the coast as far as Trujillo.

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CHAPTER VII SALAVERRY—CHAN CHAN—CHIMBOTE—THE HUAILAS VALLEY

Salaverry , 66 miles from Pacasmayo, is usually reached during the night. At this port a few tourists may be tempted to disembark, perhaps with two objects in view; one to visit the ancient city of Chan Chan, the flourishing city of Trujillo, and the great sugar plantations of the valley; the other, for the purpose of transferring to the caletero boat, in order to land at Chimbote or Samanco, thence to visit the Huailas Valley to admire its magnificent scenery, including the peerless Huascarán.

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Peruvian History

For the fuller enjoyment and appreciation of Lima, a little more history may be an advantage. The heroes of Peru are many. The names of a few will often be heard, and a knowledge of their valiant deeds, a slight acquaintance with Spanish American History, is desirable. After the news of the Conquest had been carried to Charles V together with the royal fifth of the gold treasure obtained by Pizarro, the Conqueror received an additional grant of seventy leagues of land to the south of the two hun

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Chief Points of Interest

Plaza de Armas, Cathedral, Government Palace, Portales, Plaza de la Inquisición, Senate Chamber, Hall of Congress, Market, Exposition Palace, Museum, and Park, Paseo Colon, Botanical Garden, Christóbal Hill. Excursions on Oroya Railway, and to Chorillos. The monthly magazine, Peru Today , contains a Visitors’ Guide and other valuable information. The weekly paper, The West Coast Leader , is of interest and service. CALLAO HARBOUR—RECEIVING SECRETARY ROOT PLAZA DE ARMOS, CATHEDRAL To be comfortab

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CHAPTER X THE SUBURBS OF LIMA—THE OROYA RAILWAY—CERRO DE PASCO

Chorillos. With sufficient time at one’s disposal a few days may be pleasantly spent in visiting the shore resorts near the capital. The electric cars which pass on the calle de Abancay, the third street southeast from the Maury, are the means of transit to Miraflores, Barranco and Chorillos, all pleasant places of residence, though Chorillos is especially fashionable. The last named, before the Chilian war, was the most frequented summer resort in South America, but after the battle of Chorillo

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Arequipa

Hotels. Morosini Parodi, Grand Hotel Central, Royal Hotel, Hotel Europe. ON THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY OF PERU RELIGIOUS PROCESSION, EL MISTI AT THE RIGHT At the bustling railway station, at the car windows, if not within, boys and men will appear who wish to seize your baggage and carry it to the trams. Hotel runners perhaps have previously entered the car. Behind the station a long row of tram cars drawn by little mules was formerly found, already probably superseded by the promised electrics. Befor

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Cuzco

At last the railroad leaves the main valley to follow up a tributary on the left, the Huatanay. At the head of this side valley, it reaches the ancient city of Cuzco, once the metropolis of a vast realm surpassed in extent or in wealth by few in the world’s history, probably equaled by none in the number of people living, contented and peaceful, under a single sway. From the station half a mile from the center of the city, an attractive boulevard is being laid out, on which a tram car runs to th

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CHAPTER XIII BOLIVIA—CUZCO TO LA PAZ

From Cuzco the tourist will return to Juliaca, the junction on the main line, where he should arrive in time to take the train at 6.15 p.m. for Puno on Lake Titicaca, a ride of an hour and a quarter. The time table should be carefully studied in Arequipa and the journey planned to avoid a stop-over at Puno. Should this occur, notwithstanding, one may look about the town, which, founded in the seventeenth century, is an important center of trade in alpaca and vicuña skins and wool. One may theref

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CHAPTER XIV THE CITY OF LA PAZ

The Grand Hotel Guibert is well situated at a corner of the principal Plaza. Though not on the square, several windows overlook it and from many the music of the band concerts may be heard on Sunday and Thursday evenings. The hotel entrance is on the calle Comercio, one of the principal streets of the city, running longitudinally in the valley. The side windows, on a street running down the steep hill, look across upon the side walls of the Cathedral which fronts upon the Plaza. The hotel, with

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CHAPTER XV OTHER REGIONS OF BOLIVIA—ROUTES TO THE SEA

Tiahuanaco. All who have an interest in legendary lore and in ancient monuments of a mysterious past should surely make the excursion to Tiahuanaco. Even those who have no especial leanings in that direction cannot fail to be impressed and may possibly be fascinated by these strange relics of a bygone age. Taking the morning train to Guaqui, one descends at Tiahuanaco and after a stay of three or four hours may return to La Paz in the evening. The real student could profitably devote as many day

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CHAPTER XVI THE CHILIAN COAST—ARICA TO VALPARAISO

Arica. Arriving at Arica by sea, or departing as well, one may observe in great white letters on the rocky Morro, Vive Battalion No. 4 , commemorating the Chilian victory with its massacre of Peruvians, June 7, 1880. The 1700 Peruvians here stationed, whose cannon were directed towards the sea, suffered an assault in the rear from 4000 Chilians who had landed at night several miles below. Short of small arms and ammunition, after an heroic defense for one hour, the commander, Col. Bolognesi, per

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CHAPTER XVII VALPARAISO

Hotels. Royal, A. P., 12 to 25 pesos ; Grand, A. P., 10-15 pesos ; Palace, about the same or a trifle less; Colon, 6 to 12 pesos . All higher in summer. Money. The Chilian peso , paper, varies in value from 20 to 30 cents or more; recently it was 22 cents. Chief Points of Interest. The Monument and the Government Palace near the landing; the business streets; Plaza Victoria and the church facing it; the Av. Brazil with the British Monument; the Naval School; the English and the Spanish American

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CHAPTER XVIII SANTIAGO

Hotels. Oddó, A. P., 12 to 40 pesos ; Grand, A. P., 12 to 18 pesos ; Francia, and Royal, about the same; others at lower prices. Chief Points of Interest. Plaza de Armas; Cathedral and other buildings around; the Capitol; the Moneda; the Alameda; Parque Cousiño; most important , Santa Lucia Park and the Cemetery; the Art Gallery. Santiago , the capital and largest city of Chile, the third or fourth in size in South America, considered by some travelers to have the most beautiful location of any

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CHAPTER XIX SANTIAGO—CONTINUED

In all Spanish American countries the parks are an important feature. In some respects the most beautiful, and one absolutely unique in character, is that of Santa Lucia , which, however highly praised, is almost certain to surpass expectation. The last of a row of detached hills, it made in the early days a splendid stronghold against the Indians. When no longer needed as a fort it became a quarry, then a burial ground for Jews, infidels, and Protestants, whose bones would have defiled the cons

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CHAPTER XX SANTIAGO TO BUENOS AIRES BY SEA

Southern Chile and the Straits of Magellan. The great majority of tourists will proceed from Santiago by rail over mountains and plains to Buenos Aires, being influenced thereto by several considerations. Of these the strongest may be the fact that the journey thus made occupies only 48 hours (the return 38), while by sea it requires twelve days, an important consideration in a brief tour. Also in view of the several weeks already spent on the ocean and the several more to come, all but the real

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CHAPTER XXI ACROSS THE ANDES TO MENDOZA

The journey from Santiago to Buenos Aires by the passage of the Cordillera, in former days seldom undertaken between May and October save by the hardy mail-carriers, may, since the opening of the railroad in 1910, generally be accomplished in any month of the year. Sometimes, however, traffic is temporarily suspended on account of snow-slides blocking the track on the Chilian side of the tunnel. Such inconvenience, oftener arising in the southern winter or early spring, will doubtless in time be

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CHAPTER XXII ARGENTINA—ACROSS THE PLAINS TO BUENOS AIRES

The great country of Argentina, the largest we have yet visited, in South America second only to Brazil, has more than five times the area of France and above one-third that of the United States. Considerably longer than the latter country, though not so wide, its latitude compares with that from Key West to Hudson Bay, a distance of 2200 miles; its width varies from 200 to 1000 miles. Its great length from north to south assures wide variety in climate, aside from changes in elevation, of which

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Chief Points of Interest

The Plaza and the Avenida de Mayo, the Government Palace, Capitol, Palace of Justice, Plaza San Martin, the Museum of Art, Zoological and Botanical Gardens, Palermo Park, Hippodrome, Colon Theater, Parque Lezama and National Historical Museum, Recoleta Cemetery, the Docks, Frigorificos , Mercado de Frutos . Tourists coming from Mendoza will arrive at the Retiro Station. Outside are numerous carriages to convey the traveler and small luggage to his hotel. The price of these carriages is astonishi

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CHAPTER XXIV BUENOS AIRES—CONTINUED

Leaving Palermo Park by the broad Ave. Sarmiento, one has on the left the Zoological Garden; on the right, a feature of Argentine life of the highest importance, the buildings and grounds of the Rural Society , granted by the Government to the Society for the annual agricultural and cattle shows. Upon grounds which cover 180,000 square meters are fine pavilions for various purposes; stables accommodating 500 horses or cattle, park room for 736, a roofed space for 3500 sheep, an enclosure of 4500

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Important Argentine Cities

Among the nations of the ancient or the modern world, not one do we know with a history in some respects so extraordinary as that of Paraguay. Yet of the thousands annually who will soon be making the South American Tour, scarcely one would be tempted by historic interest to journey 1000 miles from the beaten track. But the greatest waterfall in the world ! Ah, that is another matter! A waterfall bigger than Niagara, as high and with more water? Truly, that is the tale! So while the majority, wh

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Historical

Before crossing the river into Paraguay, a glance at its strange history is in order. Wonderful indeed it appears, that almost in the center of this great continent, eight hundred miles from the sea, a city was founded August 15, 1536, by three hundred Spaniards, a full century before Roger Williams made a settlement on the shores of Narragansett Bay and seventy-one years prior to the first English colony established in North America. The names of Juan de Ayolas and his faithful aid, Captain Mar

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History

While the very first landing in the Plata River section was naturally made in this country, Juan Diaz de Solis with fifty of his followers here going ashore in 1515, unfortunately to meet death at the hands of hostile Indians, the permanent settlement of Montevideo was delayed until December 24, 1726. The Charrua Indians inhabiting the country seem to have been a particularly fierce tribe, and several attempts at settlement in various places resulted disastrously. In the seventeenth century, a n

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Montevideo

Hotels. Pyramides , Sarandí corner Ituzaingó; Grand Hotel Lanatta , Sarandí 325; Central , 25 de Mayo, 245; Oriental , Solis, corner Piedras; Palacio , Calle Florida; Globe , 25 de Agosto and Colón. In the suburbs, Parque Urbano , and Pocitos . Excellent electric cars and service. Fare in center of the city, 4 cents, farther out 6, 8, 10, and to Colón, 14 cts. Carriage fare $1.00 or $1.50 an hour. Post Office , Sarandí 207. Postage, letters to United States or Europe, 8 cents; cards, 2 cents. Ur

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Historical

Accidentally discovered by Europeans within ten years after the first landing of Columbus on Western soil, some years elapsed before it received a permanent settlement. Pedro Álvarez Cabral, a Portuguese nobleman, by good fortune holds the honor of having in 1500 first beheld the most eastern shores of the American continent. Sailing from Lisbon for the East Indies with a fleet of vessels, Cabral was instructed by Vasco da Gama who had made the first all-sea voyage to that region to bear away to

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São Paulo

Hotels. The Sportsman, the Grand, the Majestic, the Albion. After climbing the mountain side, an hour more over a rolling country brings one to the station called Luz, in the city of São Paulo , said to be the largest and most costly railway station in South America, and one of the finest in the world. The tracks are arranged below the street level, hence there are no grade crossings. This city, the second in Brazil, and with its about 400,000 inhabitants taking third position among the cities o

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Hotels and Restaurants

Hotels. The Avenida , Avenida Rio Branco; Estrangeiros , Praça J. de Alencar; International , Sylvestre; America , Cattete; France , Praça 15 de Novembro; Allen’s , Rua Humaytá; Tijuca (Tijuca); Grande , Lapa; Globo , Primeiro do Março; Pensão Suissa , Largo da Gloria. Restaurants. Frankiskaner , Avenida Rio Branco, 152; Heim , Assemblea, 119; Londres , Assemblea, 115; Paris , Uruguayana, 41; and others. United States Consulate and Embassy: Avenida, 117. British Consulate: Rua General Cámara 2.

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Chief Points of Interest

Avenida do Rio Branco, the National Library, the Fine Arts Museum, the Cathedral, and the Candelaria Church, the Praças 15 of November, and Republica, the Passeio Publico, the Beira Mar, the Botanical Garden, the Pão de Assucar, and— Corcovado . It is a great advantage to have selected one’s hotel in advance and to have rooms engaged, as the three leading establishments are a long way apart. The carregadores who have numbers on their hats may usually be relied upon to bring in time your baggage

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CHAPTER XXX RIO DE JANEIRO—CONTINUED

The Avenida do Rio Branco, so called since the recent death of the famous Baron of that name, formerly the Central, is claimed by Brazilians to be the most beautiful street in the world. Though, from one or another point of view, other partisans may dispute its pre-eminence, there is no question as to its splendid construction and imposing edifices, which for variety and beauty it would be difficult to match within the same distance in any other city. Every style of architecture is represented,

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Petropolis

Hotels. Europa, Rio de Janeiro (German), Pensão Central, expensive. Braganza Hotel, Meyer’s Pension, moderate. An excursion to Petropolis (return ticket 4$) should not be omitted, a city of 25,000, the residence of the diplomats, formerly the summer home of the Emperor. Once it was necessary to cross the bay to Mauá to take the train; the road from this point to the foot of the mountains, opened in 1856, is the oldest in Brazil. While the steamboat ride was agreeable, it is more convenient to ta

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Pará and the Amazon

The great Amazon River, we all know, is the largest in the world, yet its immensity is hardly realized. In size of basin and volume of water it far exceeds the Mississippi. For a distance of 180 miles from shore the Atlantic is freshened by its waters, which vary in depth in the estuary from 90 to 900 feet. Among its 1100 tributaries, great and small, there are seven more than 1000 miles long, not counting the Marañon and Ucayali, by which it is formed. One, the Madeira River, has a length of 30

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Concerning the Countries Individually.

Ecuador. In Ecuador, it may be noted, the United States stands second among importing nations. As a place for investment, enterprise, and residence, it has advantages and disadvantages. The coast region, on account of excessive rainfall, humidity, and heat, has a less agreeable and healthful climate than the rainless Peruvian shores with their moderate temperature; malaria and yellow fever being endemic in Guayaquil, though probably not everywhere on the coast. The sierra and montaña regions of

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SOUTH AMERICA IN GENERAL

Pan American Union—Peace, Friendship, Commerce. John Barrett. Washington, Pan American Union. 1911. $1.00. Latin America, Its Rise and Progress. F. Garcia Calderon. New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1913. $3.00. South America. William D. Boyce. Illustrated. Chicago, Rand, McNally &amp; Co. 1913. $2.50. Across Unknown South America. W. Savage Landor. Boston, Little, Brown &amp; Co. 1913. Through South America. H. W. Van Dyke. New York, Crowell Publishing Co. 1912. $2.00. South America, O

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PANAMA.

The Panama Guide. J. O. Collins. Panama, Vibert &amp; Dixon. 1912. $1.50. Panama and the Canal Today. H. A. Forbes-Lindsay. Boston, L. C Page &amp; Co. 1912. $1.20. Panama Canal, What it is, What it means. John Barrett. Washington, Pan American Union. 1913. $1.00. Panama, Past and Present. Farnham Bishop. New York, Century Co. 1913. 75c. The Panama Gateway. Joseph Bucklin Bishop. New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1913. $2.50. Isthmian Tourists’ Guide and Business Directory. Isthmian Tou

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ECUADOR.

Travels in the Wilds of Ecuador. Alfred Simpson. Travels Among the Great Andes of the Equator. Sir Edward Whymper. New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons. $2.50....

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PERU.

The Old and the New Peru. M. R. Wright. Philadelphia, George Barrie. 1908. $10.00. Peru in 1906 by Alexander Garland. Translated by George R. Gepp. London. 1907. Peru, its Forms and its Present Civilization. C. R. Enock. New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1908. $3.00. The Incas of Peru. Sir Clements Markham. New York, E. P. Dutton &amp; Co. 1910. $3.00. Peru of the Twentieth Century. P. F. Martin. London, Longmans, Green &amp; Co. 1911. $4.20. The Andes and the Amazon. C. R. Enock. New Y

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BOLIVIA.

Bolivia, the Central Highway of South America. M. R. Wright. Philadelphia, George Barrie. 1907. $10.00. The Bolivian Andes. Sir Martin Conway. New York, Harper &amp; Bros. 1901. $3.00. Across the Andes. C. J. Post. New York, Outing Pub. Co. 1912. $1.75. A Search for the Apex of America. Annie S. Peck. New York, Dodd, Mead &amp; Co. 1911. $3.50....

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CHILE.

Modern Chile. W. H. Koebel. New York, The Macmillan Co. 1913. $3.00. Chile and her People of Today. Nevin O. Winter. Boston, L. C. Page &amp; Co. 1912. $3.00. Chile; Economic and Social Progress. Julio Pérez Canto. Chicago, Rand, McNally &amp; Co. 1912. $1.00. The Republic of Chile. M. R. Wright. Philadelphia, George Barrie, 1905. $10.00. Chile. G. F. Scott Elliott. Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1911. $3.00. Aconcagua and Tierra del Fuego. Sir Martin Conway. London, Cassell &amp; Co. 1902

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ARGENTINA.

Modern Argentina. W. H. Koebel. Boston, Dana Estes and Company. 1912. $3.50. Argentine Year Book. Information as to Patents, Banks, Industries, etc. Buenos Aires, Robert Grant &amp; Co. London, Ledger, Son &amp; Co. 1912. $10.00. Argentina Past and Present. W. H. Koebel. New York, Dodd, Mead &amp; Co. 1911. $4.00. Argentina and Her People of Today. Nevin O. Winter. Boston, L. C. Page &amp; Co. 1911. $3.00. Argentine Plains and Andine Glaciers. Walter Larden. New York, Charles Scr

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PARAGUAY.

Unknown People in an Unknown Land. W. Barbrooke Grubb. London, Seeley &amp; Co. 1911. Pictorial Paraguay. A. K. Macdonald. C. H. Kelly. 1911. $4.00. In Jesuit Land (Jesuit Missions of Paraguay and Argentina). W. H. Koebel. 1912. $3.00. Paraguay. M. E. Hardy. New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1913. $3.00....

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URUGUAY.

Uruguay. W. H. Koebel. Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1911. $3.00....

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BRAZIL.

The New Brazil. M. R. Wright. Philadelphia, George Barrie. 1908. $10.00. Brazil. Pierre Denis. New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons. 1911. $3.00. United States of Brazil. Charles W. Domville-Fife. New York, James Pott &amp; Co. 1911. $2.50. Brazil in 1912 (for business men). J. C. Oakenfull. Distributed gratis by the Pan American Union. Washington. Brazil and Her People of Today. N. O. Winter. Boston, L. C. Page &amp; Co. 1910. $3.00. The Sea and the Jungle. H. M. Tomlinson. New York, E. P.

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