A Woman's Journey Round The World - free ebook by Ida Pfeiffer

A WOMAN’S JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD, from Vienna to Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, and Asia Minor.

BY IDA PFEIFFER. An unabridged translation from the German....

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PREFACE.

I have been called, in many of the public journals, a “professed tourist;” but I am sorry to say that I have no title to the appellation in its usual sense. On the one hand I possess too little wit and humour to render my writings amusing; and, on the other, too little knowledge to judge rightly of what I have gone through. The only gift to which I can lay claim is that of narrating in a simple manner the different scenes in which I have played a part, and the different objects I have beheld;

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CHAPTER I. THE VOYAGE TO THE BRAZILS.

DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA—STAY IN HAMBURGH—STEAMERS AND SAILING VESSELS—DEPARTURE FROM HAMBURGH—CUXHAVEN—THE BRITISH CHANNEL—FLYING-FISH—THE PHISOLIDA—CONSTELLATIONS—PASSING THE LINE—THE “VAMPEROS”—A GALE AND STORM—CAPE FRIO—ARRIVAL IN THE PORT OF RIO JANEIRO. On the first of May, 1846, I left Vienna, and, with the exception of slight stoppages at Prague, Dresden, and Leipsic, proceeded directly to Hamburgh, there to embark for the Brazils. In Prague I had the pleasure of meeting Count Berchthold,

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CHAPTER II. ARRIVAL AND SOJOURN IN RIO JANEIRO.

INTRODUCTION—ARRIVAL—DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN—THE BLACKS AND THEIR RELATIONS TO THE WHITES—ARTS AND SCIENCES—FESTIVALS OF THE CHURCH—BAPTISM OF THE IMPERIAL PRINCESS—FETE IN THE BARRACKS—CLIMATE AND VEGETATION—MANNERS AND CUSTOMS—A FEW WORDS TO EMIGRANTS. I remained in Rio Janeiro above two months, exclusive of the time devoted to my different excursions into the interior of the country; it is very far from my intention, however, to tire the reader with a regular catalogue of every trifling and o

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CHAPTER III. EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF RIO JANEIRO.

THE WATERFALLS NEAR TESCHUKA—BOA VISTA—THE BOTANICAL GARDENS AND THEIR ENVIRONS—THE CORCOVADO MOUNTAINS, 2,253 FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE SEA—PALACES OF THE IMPERIAL FAMILY—THE NEWLY-FOUNDED GERMAN COLONY OF PETROPOLIS—ATTEMPT AT MURDER, BY A MARROON NEGRO. An excursion to the waterfalls near Teschuka, to Boa Vista, and the Botanical Gardens, is one of the most interesting near the city; but it requires two days, as it takes a long time to see the Botanical Gardens alone. Count Berchthold and m

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CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE BRAZILS.

THE TOWNS OF MORROQUEIMADO (NOVO FRIBURGO) AND ALDEA DO PEDRO—PLANTATIONS OF THE EUROPEANS—BURNING FORESTS—VIRGIN FORESTS—LAST SETTLEMENT OF THE WHITES—VISIT TO THE INDIANS, ALSO CALLED PURIS OR RABOCLES—RETURN TO RIO JANEIRO. This second journey I also made in company of Count Berchthold, after having resolved on penetrating into the interior of the country, and paying a visit to the primitive inhabitants of the Brazils. 2nd October. We left Rio Janeiro in the morning, and proceeded in a steam

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CHAPTER V. THE VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN.

DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO—SANTOS AND ST. PAULO—CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF CAPE HORN—THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN—ARRIVAL IN VALPARAISO—8TH DECEMBER, 1846, TO 2ND MARCH, 1847. When I paid £25 for my place in the fine English barque, “John Renwick,” Captain Bell, the latter promised me that he would be ready to sail on the 25th of November at the latest, and would stop at no intermediate port, but shape his course direct to Valparaiso. The first part of this promise I believed, because he assured me that ev

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CHAPTER VI. ARRIVAL AND RESIDENCE IN VALPARAISO.

APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN—PUBLIC BUILDINGS—A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE LOWER CLASSES—THE EATING-HOUSES OF POLANEA—THE CHERUB (ANGELITO)—THE RAILROAD—GOLD AND SILVER MINES. The appearance of Valparaiso is dull and monotonous. The town is laid out in two long streets at the foot of dreary hills, which look like gigantic masses of sand, but which really consist of large rocks covered with thin layers of earth and sand. On some of these hills are houses, and on one of them is

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CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE FROM VALPARAISO TO CANTON VIA TAHITI.

DEPARTURE FROM VALPARAISO—TAHITI—MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE—FÊTE AND BALL IN HONOUR OF LOUIS PHILIPPE—EXCURSIONS—A TAHITIAN DINNER—THE LAKE VAIHIRIA—THE DEFILE OF FANTAUA AND THE DIADEM—DEPARTURE—ARRIVAL IN CHINA. On the 17th of March, Captain Van Wyk Jurianse sent me word that his ship was ready for sea, and that he should set sail the next morning. The news was very unwelcome to me, as, for the last two days, I had been suffering from English cholera, which on board ship, where the pat

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CHAPTER VIII. CHINA.

MACAO—HONG-KONG—VICTORIA—VOYAGE ON BOARD A CHINESE JUNK—THE SI-KIANG, CALLED ALSO THE TIGRIS—WHAMPOA—CANTON, OR KUANGTSCHEU-FU—MODE OF LIFE PURSUED BY EUROPEANS—THE CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS—CRIMINALS AND PIRATES—MURDER OF VAUCHÉE—PROMENADES AND EXCURSIONS. A year before my arrival in China, it would have seemed hardly credible to me that I should ever succeed in taking my place among the small number of Europeans who are acquainted with that remarkable country, not from books alone, but from

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CHAPTER IX. THE EAST INDIES—SINGAPORE.

ARRIVAL IN HONG-KONG—THE ENGLISH STEAMER—SINGAPORE PLANTATIONS—A HUNTING PARTY IN THE JUNGLE—A CHINESE FUNERAL—THE FEAST OF LANTERNS—TEMPERATURE AND CLIMATE. The passage from Canton to Hong-Kong was accomplished without any circumstance worthy of notice, save the time it took, in consequence of the prevalence of contrary winds the whole way. We were, it is true, woke up the first night by the report of guns; but I expect they were not fired at us, as we were not molested. My travelling compani

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CHAPTER X. THE EAST INDIES—CEYLON.

DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE—THE ISLAND OF PINANG—CEYLON—POINTE DE GALLE—EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR—COLOMBO—CANDY—THE TEMPLE OF DAGOHA—ELEPHANT HUNT—RETURN TO COLOMBO AND POINTE DE GALLE. I once more embarked in an English steamer, the “Braganza,” of 350 horse power, that left Singapore for Ceylon on the 7th of October. The distance between the two places is 1,900 miles. The treatment I experienced on board this vessel was, it is true, a little different from that on board the other, although it w

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CHAPTER XI. MADRAS AND CALCUTTA.

DEPARTURE FROM CEYLON—MADRAS—CALCUTTA—MODE OF LIFE OF THE EUROPEANS—THE HINDOOS—PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE TOWN—VISIT TO A BABOO—RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS OF THE HINDOOS—HOUSES OF DEATH AND PLACES FOR BURNING THE DEAD—MAHOMEDAN AND EUROPEAN MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. On the afternoon of the 27th of October I went on board the steamship “Bentinck,” of 500 horse-power; but we did not weigh anchor much before evening. Among the passengers was an Indian prince of the name of Schadathan, who had been m

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CHAPTER XII. BENARES.

DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA—ENTRANCE INTO THE GANGES—RAJMAHAL—GUR—JUNGHERA—MONGHYR—PATNA—DEINAPOOR—GESIPOOR—BENARES—RELIGION OF THE HINDOOS—DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN—PALACES AND TEMPLES—THE HOLY PLACES—THE HOLY APES—THE RUINS OF SARANTH—AN INDIGO PLANTATION—A VISIT TO THE RAJAH OF BENARES—MARTYRS AND FAKIRS—THE INDIAN PEASANT—THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT. On the 10th of December, after a stay of more than five weeks, I left Calcutta for Benares. The journey may be performed either by land, or else by

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CHAPTER XIII. ALLAHABAD, AGRA, AND DELHI.

ALLAHABAD—CAUNIPOOR—AGRA—THE MAUSOLEUM OF SULTAN AKBAR—TAJ-MEHAL—THE RUINED TOWN OF FATIPOOR—SIKRI—DELHI—THE MAIN STREET—PUBLIC PROCESSIONS—THE EMPEROR’S PALACE—PALACES AND MOSQUES—OLD DELHI—REMARKABLE RUINS—THE ENGLISH MILITARY STATION. From Benares, Mr. Law and myself travelled in a post-dock to Allahabad. The distance, which amounts to seventy-six miles, occupies about twelve or thirteen hours. We left the sacred town on the 7th of January, 1848, at 6 o’clock in the evening, and early in th

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CHAPTER XIV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY.

THE THUGS OR STRANGLERS—DEPARTURE—CATTLE-MARKET—BARATPOOR—BIANA—WELLS AND PONDS—GOOD-NATURE OF THE INDIANS—POPPY PLANTATIONS—THE SUTTIS—NOTARA—KOTTAH—DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN—THE ROYAL PALACE OF ARMORNEVAS—AMUSEMENTS AND DANCES—THE HOLY VILLAGE OF KESHO-RAE-PATUM. In order to reach Bombay, I had two routes before me; the one leads past Simla to the foot of the Himalayas, the other to the famous rock temples of Adjunta and Elora. I would gladly have chosen the former, and have penetrated as far a

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CHAPTER XV. JOURNEY FROM DELHI TO BOMBAY CONTINUED.

TRAVELLING ON INDIAN CAMELS—MY MEETING WITH THE BURDON FAMILY—THE DIFFERENT CLASSES OF WOMEN AMONG THE NATIVE POPULATION IN INDIA—UDJEIN—CAPTAIN HAMILTON—INTRODUCTION AT COURT—MANUFACTURE OF ICE—THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ADJUNTA—A TIGER HUNT—THE ROCK TEMPLES OF ELORA—THE FORTRESS OF DOWLUTABAD. 14TH February. The camels were ordered at 5 o’clock in the morning, but it was not until towards noon that they came, each with a driver. When they saw my portmanteau (twenty-five pounds in weight), they were

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CHAPTER XVI. CONTINUATION OF JOURNEY AND SOJOURN.

AURANJABAD—PUNA—EAST INDIAN MARRIAGES—THE FOOLISH WAGGONER—BOMBAY—THE PARSEES, OR FIRE-WORSHIPPERS—INDIAN BURIAL CEREMONIES—THE ISLAND OF ELEPHANTA—THE ISLAND OF SALSETTE. On the 7th of March, late in the evening, I reached Auranjabad. Captain Stewart, who lived outside the town, received me with the same cordiality as the other residents had done. 8th March. Captain Stewart and his wife accompanied me this morning to the town to show me its objects of interest, which consisted of a monument a

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CHAPTER XVII. FROM BOMBAY TO BAGHDAD.

DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY—SMALL-POX—MUSCAT—BANDR-ABAS—THE PERSIANS—THE KISHMA STRAITS—BUSCHIR—ENTRANCE INTO THE SCHATEL-ARAB—BASSORA—ENTRANCE INTO THE TIGRIS—BEDOUIN TRIBES—CTESIPHON AND SELEUCIA—ARRIVAL AT BAGHDAD. The steamer “Sir Charles Forbes” (forty horse-power, Captain Lichfield) had only two cabins, a small and a large one. The former had already been engaged for some time by an Englishman, Mr. Ross; the latter was bespoken by some rich Persians for their wives and children. I was, therefo

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CHAPTER XVIII. MESOPOTAMIA, BAGHDAD, AND BABYLON.

BAGHDAD—PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS—CLIMATE—ENTERTAINMENT AT THE ENGLISH RESIDENT’S—HAREM OF THE PASCHA OF BAGHDAD—EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF CTESIPHON—THE PERSIAN PRINCE, IL-HANY-ALA-CULY-MIRZA—EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF BABYLON—DEPARTURR FROM BAGHDAD. Baghdad, the capital of Assyria, was founded during the reign of the Caliph Abu-Jasar-Almansor. A century later, in the reign of Haroun-al-Raschid, the best and most enlightened of all the caliphs, the town was at its highest pitch of prosperity; but at t

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CHAPTER XIX. MÓSUL AND NINEVEH.

JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN THROUGH THE DESERT—ARRIVAL AT MÓSUL—CURIOSITIES—EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH AND THE VILLAGE OF NEBBI YUNUS—SECOND EXCURSION TO THE RUINS OF NINEVEH—TEL-NIMROUD—ARABIAN HORSES—DEPARTURE FROM MÓSUL. In order to travel from Baghdad to Mósul safely, and without great expense, it is necessary to join a caravan. I requested Herr Swoboda to direct me to a trustworthy caravan guide. I was indeed advised not to trust myself alone among the Arabs, at least to take a servant

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CHAPTER XX. PERSIA.

JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN TO RAVANDUS—ARRIVAL AT AND STAY IN RAVANDUS—A KURDISH FAMILY—CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY—SAUH-BULAK—OROMIA—AMERICAN MISSIONARIES—KUTSCHIÉ—THREE GENEROUS ROBBERS—PERSIAN CHANS AND ENGLISH BUNGALOWS—ARRIVAL AT TEBRIS. On the 8th of July the caravan guide called for me in the evening. His appearance was so unfavourable that I should scarcely have ventured to travel a mile with him had I not been assured that he was a man well known in the place. His dress consisted of rags

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CHAPTER XXI. SOJOURN IN TEBRIS.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN—THE TOWN—PERIOD OF FASTING—BEHMEN MIRZA—ANECDOTES OF THE PERSIAN GOVERNMENT—INTRODUCTION TO THE VICEROY AND HIS WIFE—BEHMEN MIRZA’S WIVES—VISIT TO A PERSIAN LADY—PERSECUTION OF THE LOWER CLASSES, OF THE CHRISTIANS, AND OF THE JEWS—DEPARTURE. Tebris, or Tauris, is the capital of the province of Aderbeidschan, and the residence of the successor to the throne of Persia, who bears the title of Viceroy. It is situated in a treeless valley on the rivers Piatscha and Atschi, an

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CHAPTER XXII. ASIATIC RUSSIA—ARMENIA, GEORGIA, AND MINGRELIA.

SOPHIA—MARAND—THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER—NATSCHIVAN—JOURNEY OF THE CARAVAN—A NIGHT’S IMPRISONMENT—CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY—ERIVAN—THE RUSSIAN POST—THE TARTARS—ARRIVAL IN TIFLIS—SOJOURN THERE—CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY—KUTAIS—MARAND—TRIP ON THE RIBON—REDUTKALE. 11th August. The stations between Tebris and Natschivan are very irregular; one of the longest, however, is the first—namely, to the village of Sophia, which occupied us six hours. The road lay through valleys, which were, for the most par

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CHAPTER XXIII. EUROPEAN RUSSIA.

DEPARTURE FROM REDUTKALE—ATTACK OF CHOLERA—ANAPKA—SUSPICIOUS SHIP—KERTSCH—THE MUSEUM—TUMULI—CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY—THEODOSIA (CAFFA)—PRINCE WORONZOFF’S PALACE—THE FORTRESS OF SEWASTOPOL—ODESSA. On the 17th of September, at 9 in the morning, the steamer arrived, and an hour afterwards I was seated on the deck. The vessel was called Maladetz; it was 140 horse power, and the commandant’s name was Zorin. The distance from Redutkale to Kertsch is only 420 miles in a straight line, but for us, w

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CHAPTER XXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE AND ATHENS.

CONSTANTINOPLE—CHANGES—TWO FIRES—VOYAGE TO GREECE—QUARANTINE AT ÆGINA—A DAY IN ATHENS—CALAMACHI—THE ISTHMUS—PATRAS—CORFU. Little can be said of the passage from Odessa to Constantinople; we continued out at sea and did not land anywhere. The distance is 420 miles. The ship belonged to the Russian government, it was named Odessa, was of 260 horse power, and was handsome, clean, and neat. In order that my parting with my dear friends, the Russians, might not be too much regretted, one of them wa

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NOTES.

{9} The sextant is a mathematical instrument by which the different degrees of longitude and latitude are determined, and the hour known. The chronometers also are set by it. In order to find the latitude the ship is in, an observation is taken at noon, but only when the sun shines. This last is absolutely necessary, since it is from the shadow cast upon the figures of the instrument that the reckoning is made. The longitude can be determined both morning and afternoon, as the sun, in this c

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