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VISIT TO ICELAND and the SCANDINAVIAN NORTH
VISIT TO ICELAND and the SCANDINAVIAN NORTH
translated from the german of MADAME IDA PFEIFFER. with Numerous Explanatory Notes and EIGHT TINTED ENGRAVINGS. to which are added AN ESSAY ON ICELANDIC POETRY, from the french of m. bergmann ; A TRANSLATION OF THE ICELANDIC POEM THE VOLUSPA; AND A BRIEF SKETCH OF ICELANDIC HISTORY. Second Edition. LONDON: INGRAM, COOKE, AND CO. 1853...
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ADVERTISEMENT TO THE FIRST EDITION
ADVERTISEMENT TO THE FIRST EDITION
The success which attended the publication in this Series of Illustrated Works of A Woman’s Journey round the World , has induced the publication of the present volume on a country so little known as Iceland, and about which so little recent information exists. The translation has been carefully made, expressly for this Series, from the original work published at Vienna; and the Editor has added a great many notes, wherever they seemed necessary to elucidate the text. In addition to the matter w
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AUTHOR’S PREFACE
AUTHOR’S PREFACE
“Another journey—a journey, moreover, in regions which every one would rather avoid than seek. This woman only undertakes these journeys to attract attention.” “The first journey, for a woman alone , was certainly rather a bold proceeding. Yet in that instance she might still have been excused. Religious motives may perhaps have actuated her; and when this is the case, people often go through incredible things. At present, however, we can see no just reason which could excuse an undertaking
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PRAGUE.
PRAGUE.
As it was my intention to pursue my journey after two days, my first walk on the following morning was to the police-office, to procure a passport and the all-important pass-warrant; my next to the custom-house, to take possession of a small chest, which I had delivered up five days before my departure, and which, as the expeditor affirmed, I should find ready for me on my arrival at Prague. [6] Ah, Mr. Expeditor! my chest was not there. After Saturday comes Sunday; but on Sunday the custom-h
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CHAPTER II
CHAPTER II
Morning dawned at length, and in a short time afterwards we reached the great commercial city, which, half destroyed by the dreadful conflagration of 1842, had risen grander and more majestic from its ashes. [11] I took up my quarters with a cousin, who is married to the Wurtemburg consul, the merchant Schmidt, in whose house I spent a most agreeable and happy week. My cousin-in-law was polite enough to escort me every where himself, and to shew me the lions of Hamburgh. First of all we visit
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CHAPTER III
CHAPTER III
On the morning of the 16th of May I landed in the harbour of Havenfiord, and for the first time trod the shores of Iceland. Although I was quite bewildered by sea-sickness, and still more by the continual rocking of the ship, so that every object round me seemed to dance, and I could scarcely make a firm step, still I could not rest in the house of Herr Knudson, which he had obligingly placed at my disposal. I must go out at once, to see and investigate every thing. I found that Havenfiord co
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EXCURSION TO VIDÖE.
EXCURSION TO VIDÖE.
The little island of Vidöe, four miles distant from Reikjavik, is described by most travellers as the chief resort of the eider-duck. I visited the island on the 8th of June, but was disappointed in my expectations. I certainly saw many of these birds on the declivities and in the chasms of the rocks, sitting quietly on their nests, but nothing approaching the thousands I had been led to expect. On the whole, I may perhaps have seen from one hundred to a hundred and fifty nests. The most rema
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SALMON FISHERY.
SALMON FISHERY.
I made another excursion to a very short distance (two miles) from Reikjavik, in the company of Herr Bernhöft and his daughter, to the Laxselv (salmon river) to witness the salmon-fishing, which takes place every week from the middle of June to the middle of August. It is conducted in a very simple manner. The fish come up the river in the spawning season; the stream is then dammed up with several walls of stone loosely piled to the height of some three feet; and the retreat of the fish to the
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THE SULPHUR-SPRINGS AND SULPHUR-MOUNTAINS OF KRISUVIK.
THE SULPHUR-SPRINGS AND SULPHUR-MOUNTAINS OF KRISUVIK.
The 4th of June was fixed for my departure. I had only to pack up some bread and cheese, sugar and coffee, then the horses were saddled, and at seven o’clock the journey was happily commenced. I was alone with my guide, who, like the rest of his class, could not be considered as a very favourable specimen of humanity. He was very lazy, exceedingly self-interested, and singularly loath to devote any part of his attention either to me or to the horses, preferring to concentrate it upon brandy,
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CHAPTER V
CHAPTER V
As the weather continued fine, I wished to lose no time in continuing my wanderings. I had next to make a tour of some 560 miles; it was therefore necessary that I should take an extra horse, partly that it might carry my few packages, consisting of a pillow, some rye-bread, cheese, coffee, and sugar, but chiefly that I might be enabled to change horses every day, as one horse would not have been equal to the fatigue of so long a journey. My former guide could not accompany me on my present jou
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CHAPTER VI
CHAPTER VI
The weather soon cleared up, and I continued my journey to the Geyser and to Mount Hecla on the 24th June. On the first day, when we rode to Thingvalla, we passed no new scenery, but saw instead an extremely beautiful atmospheric phenomenon. The Geysers As we approached the lake, some thin mist-clouds lowered over it and over the earth, so that it seemed as if it would rain. One portion of the firmament glowed with the brightest blue; while the other part was obscured by thick clouds, through
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DEPARTURE FROM ICELAND.—JOURNEY TO COPENHAGEN.
DEPARTURE FROM ICELAND.—JOURNEY TO COPENHAGEN.
I had seen all there was to be seen in Iceland, had finished all my excursions, and awaited with inexpressible impatience the sailing of the vessel which was destined to bring me nearer my beloved home. But I had to stay four very long weeks in Reikjavik, my patience being more exhausted from day to day, and had after this long delay to be satisfied with the most wretched accommodation. The delay was the more tantalising, as several ships left the port in the mean time, and Herr Knudson, with w
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DEPARTURE FROM COPENHAGEN.—CHRISTIANIA.
DEPARTURE FROM COPENHAGEN.—CHRISTIANIA.
On the 19th August, the day after my arrival from Iceland, at two o’clock in the afternoon, I had already embarked again; this time in the fine royal Norwegian steamer Christiania , of 170 horsepower, bound for the town of Christiania, distant 304 sea-miles from Copenhagen. We had soon passed through the Sound and arrived safely in the Cattegat, in which we steered more to the right than on the journey to Iceland; for we not only intended to see Norway and Sweden, but to cast anchor on the coas
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JOURNEY TO DELEMARKEN.
JOURNEY TO DELEMARKEN.
All I had hitherto seen in Norway had gratified me so much, that I could not resist the temptation of a journey to the wildly romantic regions of Delemarken. I was indeed told that it would be a difficult undertaking for a female, alone and almost entirely ignorant of the language, to make her way through the peasantry. But I found no one to accompany me, and was determined to go; so I trusted to fate, and went alone. According to the inquires I had instituted in respect to this journey, I ant
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CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER IX
August 30th. At seven o’clock this morning I left Christiania, accompanied by the good wishes of my countrywoman and her husband, and went back to Gottenburg by the same steamer which had brought me thence ten days before. I need only mention the splendid view of a portion of Christian’s Sound—also called Fiord—which I lost on the former journey from the darkness of the night. We passed it in the afternoon. The situation of the little town of Lauervig is superb. It is built on a natural terr
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EXCURSION TO THE OLD ROYAL CASTLE OF GRIPTHOLM ON THE MALARSEE
EXCURSION TO THE OLD ROYAL CASTLE OF GRIPTHOLM ON THE MALARSEE
Every Sunday morning, at eight o’clock, a little steamer leaves Stockholm for this castle; the distance is about forty-five miles, and is passed in four hours; four hours more are allowed for the stay, and in the evening the steamer returns to Stockholm. This excursion is very interesting, although we pass the greater part of the time on that portion of the lake which we had seen on our arrival, but for the last few miles the ship turned into a pretty bay, at whose apex the castle is situated.
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JOURNEY FROM STOCKHOLM TO UPSALA AND TO THE IRON-MINES OF DANEMORA
JOURNEY FROM STOCKHOLM TO UPSALA AND TO THE IRON-MINES OF DANEMORA
September 12th. The intercourse between Stockholm and Upsala is very considerable. A steamer leaves both places every day except Sunday, and traverses the distance in six hours. Tempted by this convenient opportunity of easily and quickly reaching the celebrated town of Upsala, and by the unusually fine weather, I took my passage one evening, and was greatly disappointed when, on the following morning, the rain poured down in torrents. But if travellers paid much attention to the weather, they
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FROM STOCKHOLM TO TRAVEMUNDE AND HAMBURGH
FROM STOCKHOLM TO TRAVEMUNDE AND HAMBURGH
I bade farewell to Stockholm on the 18th September, and embarked in the steamer Svithiold , of 100-horse power, at twelve o’clock at noon, to go to Travemünde. Few passages can be more expensive than this one is. The distance is five hundred leagues, and the journey generally occupies two and a half to three days; for this the fare, without food, is four pounds. The food is also exorbitantly dear; in addition to which the captain is the purveyor; so that there is no appeal for the grossest ext
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STAY IN BERLIN—RETURN TO VIENNA
STAY IN BERLIN—RETURN TO VIENNA
I have never seen a town more beautifully or regularly built than Berlin,—I mean, the town of Berlin itself,—only the finest streets, palaces, and squares of Copenhagen would bear a comparison with it. I spent but a few days here, and had therefore scarcely time to see the most remarkable and interesting sights. The splendid royal palace, the extensive buildings for the picture-gallery and museums, the great dome—all these are situated very near each other. The Dome church is large and regularly
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CHARLOTTENBURG
CHARLOTTENBURG
This place is about half an hour’s distance from the Brandenburg-gate, where the omnibuses that depart every minute are stationed. The road leads through the park, beyond which lies a pretty village, and adjoining it is the royal country-palace of Charlottenburg. The palace is built in two stories, of which the upper one is very low, and is probably only used for the domestics. The palace is more broad than deep; the roof is terrace-shaped, and in its centre rises a pretty dome. The garden i
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POTSDAM.
POTSDAM.
The distance from Berlin to Potsdam is eighteen miles, which is passed by the railroad in three-quarters of an hour. The railway is very conveniently arranged; the carriages are marked with the names of the station, and the traveller enters the carriage on which the place of his destination is marked. Thus, the passengers are never annoyed by the entrance or exit of passengers, as all occupying the same carriage descend at the same time. The road is very uninteresting; but this is compensated
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Salaries of the Royal Danish Officials in Iceland, which they receive from the Icelandic land-revenues.
Salaries of the Royal Danish Officials in Iceland, which they receive from the Icelandic land-revenues.
Florins [58] The Governor of Iceland 2000 Office expenses 600 The deputy for the western district 1586 400 Rent 200 The deputy for the northern and eastern districts 1286 The bishop of Iceland, who draws his salary from the school-revenues, has paid him from this treasury 800 The members of the Supreme Court: One judge 1184 First assessor 890 Second assessor 740 The land-bailiff of Iceland 600 Office expenses 200 Rent 150 The town-bailiff of Reikjavik 300 The first police-officer o
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LIST OF INVERTEBRATED ANIMALS collected in Iceland
LIST OF INVERTEBRATED ANIMALS collected in Iceland
1. Crustacea . Pagarus Bernhardus, Linnæus . 2. Insecta . a. Coleoptera . Nebria rubripes, Dejean . Patrobus hyperboreus. Calathus melanocephalus, Fabr . Notiophilus aquaticus. Amara vulgaris, Duftsihm . Ptinus fur, Linn . Aphodius Lapponum, Schh . Otiorhynchus lævigatus, Dhl . Otiorhynchus Pinastri, Fabr . Otiorhynchus ovatus. Staphylinus maxillosus. Byrrhus pillula. b. Neuroptera . Limnophilus lineola, Schrank . c. Hymenoptera . Pimpla instigator, Gravh . Bombus subterraneu
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LIST OF ICELANDIC PLANTS collected by Ida Pfeiffer in the Summer of the year 1845
LIST OF ICELANDIC PLANTS collected by Ida Pfeiffer in the Summer of the year 1845
Felices . Cystopteris fragilis. Equisetaceæ . Equisetum Teltamegra. Graminæ . Festuca uniglumis. Cyperaceæ . Carea filiformis. Carea cæspitosa. Eriophorum cæspitosum. Juncaceæ . Luzula spicata. Luzula campestris. Salicineæ . Salix polaris. Polygoneæ . Remux arifolus. Oxyria reniformes. Plumbagineæ . Armeria alpina (in the interior mountainous districts). Compositæ . Chrysanthemum maritimum (on the sea-shore, and on marshy fields). Hieracium alpinum (on grassy plains). Taraxacum al
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