The Three Kings—Cathedral—Council of Basle—Puritan rules—Dance of Death—Seats in the Diligence—Supplement—The Rhine—An Alderman in trouble—Dining in haste—English manners—Girls in holiday dress—Falls of the Rhine—Niagara—Up the river—Old nunneries—Gottlieben—Prisons of Huss and Jerome of Prague. Switzerland, to be seen aright, must be entered from Germany. Many travellers rush from Paris to Geneva, and beginning with Chamouni and Mont Blanc come down from the greater to the less, tapering off wi

A decaying Town—the Kaufhaus—Famous Council—Dungeon of Huss—Scene of Martyrdom—House of Huss—Lake Constance—the Ride to Zurich—Villages—the Valley—Hotel Baur—a Swiss Cottage—the Furnishing—Miles Coverdale—Zwingle—Lavater’s Grave—the Library—Sunset View from the Botanical Garden. Forty thousand people once lived together within the walls of Constance. Now less than seven thousand are here. But the old and curious houses still stand, many of them without inhabitants, and the whole city apparently

Climbing the Utleberg—Fat woman on a donkey—First Alpine view—The valley, lake and hills—Haunts of Lavater, Zimmerman, Klopstock, Gessner—The work of Escher—Coming Down—Baur Hotel—Lake Zurich—Lake Zug—Golda—Land-side—Ruin—Ascent of the Rigi—The best route—Chapels by the way—Mary of the Snow—Convent and monks—The Summit—The Company—Change of Temperature—Sunset—Supper—Night—Sunrise—Glory of the view—Getting down again—Fat man done up. Rankin challenged me this morning to walk to the heights of Utl

The Lake—Avalanches—Pontius Pilate—Lucerne—Dance of Death—Fishing—Storm on the Lake—Ramble among the Peasantry—Two Dwarfs—On the Lake—Rifle Shooting—Chapel of William Tell—Scenes in his Life—Altorf—Hay-Making—a Great Day. In the Hotel de la Concorde , the “house of peace,” I found a pleasant chamber on the edge of the Lake of Lucerne; and so near that in its lucid waters I can from my window see the large fish chasing and devouring the little ones, just as big fish on land are doing everywhere.

The Priest’s Leap—The Devil’s Bridge—Night on the Mountains—Storm—Hospenthal—the Glaciers—a Lady in Distress—the Furca Pass—Glacier of the Rhone—Heinrich and Nature—Heinrich asks after God—Scene in the Hospice. We are now on the great road that leads over the Alps into Italy by the famous Pass of St. Gothard. The diligence to Milan went off this morning at nine o’clock, and had we come on in the earliest boat from Lucerne, we might have been taken on as far as we liked by that lumbering conveyan

My new Friend—a Wonderful Youth—Hospice of the Grimsel—the Valley—a comfortable Day—Glaciers of the Aar—a Gloomy Vale—Climbing a Hill—View of the Glacier—Theory of its Formation—Caverns in the Ice—Incidents of Men falling in—My Leap and Fall—an Artist Lost—Return. Heinrich proved to be a wonderful youth. He had a warm heart, and his intellect was cultivated to a degree not parallelled in my acquaintance among young men. He was just one and twenty years of age, and had not completed the usual cou

Pedestrianism—Mountain Torrents—Fall of the Handek—The Guide and his Little Ones—Falls of the Reichenbach—Perilous Point of View. Not in the best of spirits, nor in as good condition as a pedestrian could wish, I set off the next morning, with my young friends. We would have felt better but for a foolish resolution to carry our own knapsacks and overcoats and to make one day’s journey without guide or mule. Success is apt to make one proud; and we had improved so much in our walking with each da

Alpine Horn—Beggars—The Rosenlaui Glacier—Beautiful Views—Glorious Mountain Scenes—Mrs. Kinney’s “Alps”—A Lady and Babe—The Great Scheidek—Grindelwald—Eagle and Bear—Battle with Bugs—Wengern Alp—A real Avalanche—The Jungfrau. A beautiful Chamois was standing on the ledge of rock that overhung the path as I turned away from the Reichenbach Fall, and I was pleased to see so fine a specimen of the animal whose home is the Alps and whose pursuit has for ages been the delight of the mountaineer. He w

The Staubach Fall—Lauterbrunnen—Interlachen—Cretins and Goitre—Dr. Guggenbuhl—Giesbach Fall—Berne—Inquisitive Lady—Swiss Creed—Crossing the Gemmi—Leuchenbad Baths. The Staubach Fall, nearly a thousand feet high, is far from being such a thing of beauty as I had hoped to find it. It comes from such a height and has so small a body of water, that it dissolves into spray, and falling upon the rocks gathers itself up again and leaps down into the valley. Byron compares it to the tail of the white ho

The Char-a-banc—the Napoleon Pass—Travellers in winter—Monks—Dogs—Dinner—Music—Dead-house—Contributions—a Monk’s Kiss. The weather was threatening when we set off from Martigny, and we had many forebodings that the dogs of Saint Bernard might have to look us up, if the storm should come before we reached the hospice. A char-a-banc, a narrow carriage in which we sat three in a line with the tandem horses, was to convey us to the village of Liddes. On leaving the valley and crossing the river Dran

The Host of Martigny—Vale of the Drance—Mount Rosa—Tete Noire—Col de Balm—The Monarch of the Alps. “Bring me for my ride to-morrow the easiest of all the mules in Martigny,” I said to Antonio, on the evening after my return from the pass of St. Bernard. I was knocked up nearly, done over certainly, and contemplated another trip with a sort of shrink. But there is nothing in Martigny to see, after you have looked at the measures of the various heights to which the water has risen in times of inun

A good House—Prisoner of Chillon—Calvin—Dr. Malan—Dr. Gaussen—Col. Tronchin—The Cemetery. The Hotel des Bergues stands on the Lake of Geneva, just where the “arrowy Rhone” shoots out from its bosom. This is one of the finest hotels in Europe, and with the Trois Couronnes at Vevay, may fairly challenge comparison with any other. I brought up at this house from the Vale of Chamouni. The dismal rain through which I had been riding on a chill autumn day, had increased to a storm, and the old town, t

Waterfalls—Constance—Zurich—William Tell—Glaciers—the Monarch. The waterfalls of Switzerland are among its crowning glories; and of these the falls of Schaffhausen are altogether the most imposing. The European, who has never worshiped at the foot of our own great cataract, looks down from the base of the Castle of Lauffen, after paying a franc for the privilege of getting to a standing-place; or he looks up from the opposite shore, where is reared the Castle of Worth, and he pronounces it magni

A model guide—The Bastei—Banditti of old—A cataract to order—Scaling a Rampart—Konigstein—the Kuhstall—the Great Winterberg—Prebisch Thor—Looking Back. In a corner of Saxony is a miniature Switzerland. They call it Saxon Switzerland; perhaps the name is not well chosen, for it has one feature only of Swiss scenery—exceeding beauty. Only three days are required to see it, and two will give a good traveller all the more prominent points, in a series of views, the romantic loveliness of which will

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