UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME Fully Illustrated, and with Coloured Frontispieces. 5s. net CHATS ON OLD CHINA By ARTHUR HAYDEN Second Edition. Revised, with many New Illustrations. "A handsome handbook that the amateur in doubt will find useful, and the china-lover will enjoy for its illustrations, and for the author's obvious love and understanding of his subject."— St. James's Gazette. "All lovers of china will find much entertainment in this volume."— Daily News. "It gives in a few pithy chapters j

Needless to say the present work is far from exhausting the subject of costume, which extends, indeed, over the whole field of history. For reasons of space, neither ecclesiastical nor military costume is touched upon. The book makes no pretensions to being anything more than what its title suggests—a series of chats upon a subject which fills a considerable place in the minds of, at any rate, the larger half of the community. While many works germane to the subject of costume have, of necessity

"You see two individuals, one dressed in fine Red, the other in coarse threadbare Blue: Red says to Blue: 'Be hanged and anatomised;' Blue hears with a shudder, and (O wonder of wonders!) marches sorrowfully to the gallows; is there noosed-up, vibrates his hour, and the surgeons dissect him, and fit his bones into a skeleton for medical purposes. How is this; or what make ye of your Nothing can act but where it is? Red has no physical hold of Blue, no clutch of him, is nowise in contact with him

"Where were the variegated robes, works of Sidonian women, which god-like Paris himself brought from Sidon, sailing over the wide sea, along the course by which he conveyed high-born Helen?"— Iliad , vi. 289. II THE TUNIC The earliest made-up garment, that in which the art of the tailor was called into play, was doubtless a simple bag, more or less closely fitting to the body and of varying length, with holes for the arms and an opening for the neck. Such a primitive garment has been worn in var

Chaucer , The Knight's Tale . THE CORONATION MANTLE. Preserved in the Imperial Treasury in Vienna. III THE MANTLE Of the famous mantles recorded in history, one of the first which will occur to the mind is that of Elijah, in which he hid his face when he stood in the cave at Horeb, and heard the still, small voice, which came after the fire, which came after the earthquake, which came after the great strong wind which rent the mountains, and brake in pieces the rocks before the Lord. And afterwa

"Monsieur, the King's elder brother, has set up for a kind of wit; and leans towards the Philosophe side. Monseigneur d'Artois pulls the mask from a fair impertinent; fights a duel in consequence,—almost drawing blood. He has breeches of a kind new in this world;—a fabulous kind, 'four tall lackeys,' says Mercier, as if he had seen it, 'hold him in the air, that he may fall into the garment without vestige of wrinkle; from which rigorous encasement the same four, in the same way, and with more e

" Falstaff. What trade art thou, Feeble? " Feeble. A woman's tailor, sir. " Shallow. Shall I prick him, sir? " Falstaff. You may; but if he had been a man's tailor he would have pricked you—Wilt thou make as many holes in an enemy's battle, as thou hast done in a woman's petticoat? " Feeble. I will do my good will, sir; you can have no more. " Falstaff. Well said, good woman's tailor! well said, courageous Feeble! Thou wilt be as valiant as the wrathful dove, or most magnanimous mouse—Prick the

Booke of Robin Conscience. THE CRINOLINE. From Jacquemin. VI THE RISE AND FALL OF THE CRINOLINE Fielding, in his description of the beauty and many graces of Sophia Western, feeling his subject to be more than ordinarily sublime, introduces his heroine "with the utmost solemnity, with an elevation of style, and all the other circumstances proper to raise the veneration of the reader": "Hushed be every ruder breath. May the heathen ruler of the winds confine in iron chains the boisterous limbs of

" Theodorus. Have they not also houses to set their ruffes in, to trim them and to trick them, as well as to starch them in? " Amphilogus. Yea, marry have they, for either the same starching houses do serve the turn, or else they have their other chambers and secret closets to the same use, wherein they tricke up these cartwheeles of the divels charet of pride, leading the direct way to the dungeon of hell." Stubbes , Anatomy of Abuses . VII COLLARS AND CUFFS It is to be understood that the term

"'In that direction,' the Cat said, waving his right paw round, 'lives a Hatter; and in that direction,' waving the other paw, 'lives a March Hare. Visit either you like; they're both mad.'" Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. FOOLS IN A MORRIS DANCE. Bodleian MS. (free rendering). VIII HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS Mad as a hatter? How comes an honest craft to be thus maligned? Hatters were never mad—that is, not more so than the rest of us—until they adopted the pot of the chimney as a model. [21] Nat

" Truewit. A wise lady will keep guard always upon the place, that she may do things securely. I once followed a rude fellow into a chamber, where the poor madam, for haste, and troubled, snatched at her peruke to cover her baldness, and put it on the wrong way. " Clerimont. O prodigy! " Truewit. And the unconscionable knave held her in compliment an hour with that reversed face, when I still looked when she should talk from the other side. " Clerimont. Why, thou shouldst have relieved her. " Tr

"'Who is there in the house?' said Sam, in whose mind the inmates were always represented by that particular article of their costume which came under his immediate superintendence. 'There's a wooden leg in number six; there's a pair of Hessians in thirteen; there's two pair of halves in the commercial; there's these here painted tops in the snuggery inside the bar; and five more tops in the coffee-room.' "'Nothing more?' said the little man. "'Stop a bit,' replied Sam, suddenly recollecting him