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FROM FLAG TO FLAG
FROM FLAG TO FLAG
A WOMAN’S ADVENTURES AND EXPERIENCES IN THE SOUTH DURING THE WAR, IN MEXICO AND IN CUBA BY ELIZA McHATTON-RIPLEY “Faith! I ran when I saw others run.”— I Henry IV. “See here, my friends and loving countrymen; This token serveth for a flag of truce Betwixt ourselves.”— I Henry IV. NEW YORK D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 1889 Copyright, 1888, By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY....
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NOTE.
NOTE.
The years covered by this narrative were full of stirring interest. Civil war in the United States put the nation under arms from the St. Lawrence to the Rio Grande, and shattered the entire social and political fabric of the South. Mexico was conquered by the French, who, in time, were driven from the country, and the improbability of any European power obtaining a foothold there forever settled. A large portion of the Island of Cuba was for years under the control of the insurgents; and, not u
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CHAPTER I. A PLANTATION HOME IN LOUISIANA.
CHAPTER I. A PLANTATION HOME IN LOUISIANA.
A spacious mansion, with deep verandas supported by fluted columns, so closely following the architectural features of the historic Lee homestead on the Potomac as to give the name of “Arlington” to the plantation, was the home of my early married life. The house faced a broad lawn, dotted here and there with live-oak and pecan trees. An avenue, over which the “pride-of-China” trees cast their shade, and beside which the Cherokee rose grew with great luxuriance, led to the river-bank, and comman
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CHAPTER II. THE NEW FLAG—CAMPAIGN SEWING SOCIETY—CAPTURE OF NEW ORLEANS.
CHAPTER II. THE NEW FLAG—CAMPAIGN SEWING SOCIETY—CAPTURE OF NEW ORLEANS.
Basking in the sunshine of prosperity during the stirring events that crowded one after another through the winter of 1860-’61, buoyed up by the hope and belief that a peaceful solution of national complications would be attained, we were blind to the ominous clouds that were gathering around us. Prophets arose in our midst, with vigorous tongue and powerful eloquence lifting the veil and giving us glimpses of the fiery sword suspended over our heads; but the pictures revealed were like pages in
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CHAPTER III. A CREVASSE—OCCUPATION OF BATON ROUGE—DEFENSELESS CITIZENS.
CHAPTER III. A CREVASSE—OCCUPATION OF BATON ROUGE—DEFENSELESS CITIZENS.
The rapidly rising river was another element of danger menacing us. It is a fearful sight to see the relentless flood plunging by, bearing great trees and logs of drift-wood on its muddy surface many feet above the ground on which you stand, an embankment of earth your only defense, and the waves of passing steamboats dashing over that frail barrier and falling in spray at your feet. It is startling to realize that busy craw-fish, the dread enemy of every man whose “lines are laid” behind a Miss
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CHAPTER IV. WILLY’S ERRAND—BRECKENRIDGE’S MESSAGE—THE RAW RECRUITS.
CHAPTER IV. WILLY’S ERRAND—BRECKENRIDGE’S MESSAGE—THE RAW RECRUITS.
Taxes had to be paid on plantations in Mississippi. Federal gunboats cut off the usual means of communication. From New Orleans to Baton Rouge, and from Cairo to Vicksburg, they were in undisturbed possession. So we were compelled to send a messenger by land to Greenville, some distance beyond Vicksburg. I well remember how carefully Willy, a boy of fourteen, very bright and manly, though small for his age, was prepared for the undertaking. He had never been through the country. So he had a memo
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CHAPTER V. THE BATTLE—RUSH TO ARLINGTON—DISASTER—DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS.
CHAPTER V. THE BATTLE—RUSH TO ARLINGTON—DISASTER—DEPARTURE OF OUR GUESTS.
The next morning, at the first blush of dawn, firing was distinctly heard from the direction of the town. Now, while the town was distant four miles by the road winding with the river, it was not half that far as the crow flies. Baton Rouge was on a sharp point; then the river made a deep bend, and Arlington was on the next point of the scallop; so that, looking toward the town from the windows, we looked partly over water, and the city had somewhat the appearance of being built on an island, th
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CHAPTER VI. RESTORING ORDER—SCENES OF VANDALISM—PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.
CHAPTER VI. RESTORING ORDER—SCENES OF VANDALISM—PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.
No one, who has not had the experience, knows what a litter and indescribable confusion of dirt and débris is left after twenty-four hours’ occupancy of a house and grounds by a host, such as I have attempted to describe. For days the negroes were cleaning up, and restoring some kind of order. We moved around in a melancholy way, ministering to the wants of our reluctant guests as far as we could, and bidding them Godspeed when one by one they recovered sufficient strength to pick up their addit
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CHAPTER VII. SECOND VISIT OF THE ENEMY—MIDNIGHT FLIGHT—FAREWELL TO ARLINGTON.
CHAPTER VII. SECOND VISIT OF THE ENEMY—MIDNIGHT FLIGHT—FAREWELL TO ARLINGTON.
The only exact date I can remember, and that I can never forget, was the 17th of December. The weather was warm for the season, a thick fog hung over the river, obscuring objects only a few yards distant. As I stood by the window, in the early morning, completing my toilet, the white, misty curtain rolled up like a scroll, revealing a fleet of gunboats. Far as the eye could reach, up and down and around our point, the river was bristling with gayly flagged transports, anchored mid-stream, waitin
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CHAPTER VIII. “PICKETS DOWN DAR!”—HARD JOURNEYING—WILLY’S FATE—CHARLOTTE.
CHAPTER VIII. “PICKETS DOWN DAR!”—HARD JOURNEYING—WILLY’S FATE—CHARLOTTE.
The whole plantation field-work was done with mules, and I really believe Willy was the only person on the place, capable of driving, who had never managed a team of four. He moved slowly up toward the town, as directed. I think Dave felt a little reassured so long as he faced the Federal flag; but at Gartness Lane the wagon turned in, leaving the starry emblem to the left; then Dave stopped to remark that he believed he “had gone ’bout far enough—p’raps Sabe could drive, but he wouldn’t.” Here
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CHAPTER IX. CAMPING BY NIGHT—FORLORN WOMEN—BEAUMONT—HOUSTON.
CHAPTER IX. CAMPING BY NIGHT—FORLORN WOMEN—BEAUMONT—HOUSTON.
We were going to Texas, the great State that opened its hospitable doors to hundreds of refugees fleeing like ourselves from their own homes. We were going to Texas for many reasons. A loving brother was there, and our slaves were there at peaceful work on land cultivated on shares. We had, besides, the feeling that the Federals could never get a foothold on its boundless prairies, though they had made an ominous beginning by capturing its most valuable seaport; but, above and beyond all, we cou
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CHAPTER X. TRAVELING THROUGH TEXAS—NEARING THE RIO GRANDE.
CHAPTER X. TRAVELING THROUGH TEXAS—NEARING THE RIO GRANDE.
Once in Texas, we moved around with our fast-vanishing lares et penates as business or convenience required. The dear baby succumbed to the first illness he ever had, and one beautiful April day his little body was carried to the cemetery at Houston and buried, as was our blessed Saviour, in a tomb belonging to another. The cradle that had been kindly loaned us by a neighbor, and the various little cups and mugs, also borrowed, were returned, the medicine-bottles put out of sight, and I sat down
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CHAPTER XI. LAREDO—MEXICAN ESCORT TO PIEDRAS NEGRAS—THE CUSTOM-HOUSE—A NORTHER—SAN ANTONIO—SCARCITY OF NECESSARIES.
CHAPTER XI. LAREDO—MEXICAN ESCORT TO PIEDRAS NEGRAS—THE CUSTOM-HOUSE—A NORTHER—SAN ANTONIO—SCARCITY OF NECESSARIES.
On the fourth day at noon we camped amid sand and prickly-pear, to brush up and make ourselves presentable to appear before strangers. An hour afterward we drove into the scattering town of Laredo, amid the plaudits of numberless little, half-naked muchachos who never had seen an ambulance, never had seen anything but themselves and the muddy river, and at long intervals a lonely wagon. So they hung on to the traces, ran by the wheels, and caught on behind, at the imminent risk of bodily injury.
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CHAPTER XII. FINAL TRIP TO THE RIO GRANDE—MATAMORAS OCCUPIED BY THE FRENCH—WAITING!—MARTHA BEFORE THE ALCALDE—WAR OVER!
CHAPTER XII. FINAL TRIP TO THE RIO GRANDE—MATAMORAS OCCUPIED BY THE FRENCH—WAITING!—MARTHA BEFORE THE ALCALDE—WAR OVER!
We made a final trip to Mexico, the following September, and had almost our first experience in camping during stormy weather. From San Antonio to Laredo everything was soaked. We often experienced great difficulty in making camp-fires—more than once starting in the early morning, all damp and miserable, and without the usual hot coffee. Near the Frio we met the only American train I saw, accompanied with a woman (it was not unusual to see women in Mexican trains, making chocolate and tortillas
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CHAPTER XIII. HAVANA—HÔTEL CUBANO—OUR HOME ON THE CERRO.
CHAPTER XIII. HAVANA—HÔTEL CUBANO—OUR HOME ON THE CERRO.
No pencil can give an adequate picture of Havana as one enters its harbor. It is the loveliest gem of the ocean. To us, who had so long dealt with the rough realities of life, it was as a bit of fairy-land, where everybody was happy, sailing, driving, and gliding about, for very lack of work-day occupation. Entering between the beetling heights of El Morro on one side and the frowning guns of La Punta on the other, as we steamed up toward the queen city of the “Ever-faithful Isle,” the panorama
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CHAPTER XIV. STREET SIGHTS AND SOUNDS—EVENINGS IN THE CITY—SHOPS AND SHOPPING—BEGGARS—VACCINATION.
CHAPTER XIV. STREET SIGHTS AND SOUNDS—EVENINGS IN THE CITY—SHOPS AND SHOPPING—BEGGARS—VACCINATION.
The new, unfamiliar, and ever-varying street sights were an unfailing source of entertainment. The bulk of commercial business is transacted in the early morning. Clattering volantes , carrying merchants and bankers from princely homes around us to city offices, were the earliest sounds. Then followed a succession of peripatetic venders all day long. The milkman, with one poor little cow and straggling, muzzled calf, was our first visitor. In response to his shrill call, “ Lêché ,” Martha ran ou
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CHAPTER XV. A POLYGLOT—ZELL—BEATRIZ’S SCHOOL—IGNORANT GUAJIROS.
CHAPTER XV. A POLYGLOT—ZELL—BEATRIZ’S SCHOOL—IGNORANT GUAJIROS.
Henry went to a little school a few doors off, kept by a Danish woman, who conversed readily in their native tongue with the French, German, Russian, Italian, and English consuls, all of whom lived in the neighborhood. There Henry, now nine years old, was taught to read in French and Spanish, and, with the quickness of intelligent childhood, soon learned to speak the latter quite fluently. Zell did our cooking and ran on errands, and, as the darky also readily acquires a foreign lingo, it was no
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CHAPTER XVI. PLANTATION PURCHASED—LIFE AT “DESENGAÑO”—AT WORK ONCE MORE.
CHAPTER XVI. PLANTATION PURCHASED—LIFE AT “DESENGAÑO”—AT WORK ONCE MORE.
At last my husband found a sugar-plantation for sale—“positively to be sold.” It would be hard to tell how many he went to inspect, and found the titles imperfect. This one was encumbered by a minor’s lien. The old man who owned that one was crazy, and could not make a title. A third belonged to a whole family of heirs, who had fallen out among themselves, and would not agree upon terms of sale. Another was in the merciless grasp of the city merchant, who would ultimately sequestrate it. And so
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CHAPTER XVII. RAINY SEASON—CULTIVATING ABANDONED FIELDS—DON FULGENCIO’S MODE—FIRST SUMMER AT DESENGAÑO—BOOKS.
CHAPTER XVII. RAINY SEASON—CULTIVATING ABANDONED FIELDS—DON FULGENCIO’S MODE—FIRST SUMMER AT DESENGAÑO—BOOKS.
Summer on a sugar-plantation is what is known in common parlance as the “dead season.” The days are long and hot. Work begins before the dawn, pauses at midday, and ends when it is too dark to see. And the latter is an uncertain hour, for the radiance of the moon in that latitude is quite surprising. The middle of the summer’s day is devoted to rest. From the tap of the great bell at noon, to two taps at 3 P. M. , no work is done, everybody eats and sleeps. When it is unusually rainy, and summer
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CHAPTER XVIII. MORE LABORERS REQUIRED—HENRY SHOOTS WILD DOGS—MILITARY RULE—EXTORTION.
CHAPTER XVIII. MORE LABORERS REQUIRED—HENRY SHOOTS WILD DOGS—MILITARY RULE—EXTORTION.
The first year crept slowly by. We fought a brave fight against odds; sometimes sick at heart and almost discouraged, as petty annoyances rose here and there, thick about us. Our slight knowledge of the language, our utter ignorance of the habits and ways of the country people; the strangeness of the negroes, who feared and distrusted us; the trickery and untruthfulness of the white men we had to employ; the grand hidalgo airs and graces, and hollow professions of friendship, of our few visitors
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CHAPTER XIX. NEW CHINESE—COOLIE REBELLION—ZELL’S BRAVERY—CHINESE LABOR CONTRACT—VICIOUS INSECTS.
CHAPTER XIX. NEW CHINESE—COOLIE REBELLION—ZELL’S BRAVERY—CHINESE LABOR CONTRACT—VICIOUS INSECTS.
In a few days Lamo returned, bringing Zell, whom he summoned to Havana to interpret from English into Spanish; and Ramon, a Chinese, whose term of service on the plantation was drawing to a close, to interpret from Spanish into Chinese; also thirty-five newly imported coolies. The new crowd presented a grotesque appearance. Beardless, and with long pig-tails, loose blouses, and baggy breeches, they looked like women. Stolid, quiet, and undemonstrative as Indians, they tumbled out of the wagon th
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CHAPTER XX. CIRIACO—PLANTATION GARDEN—TASAJO—NEGRO MUSIC AND DANCING.
CHAPTER XX. CIRIACO—PLANTATION GARDEN—TASAJO—NEGRO MUSIC AND DANCING.
From that band of Chinese, one with a good countenance and neat appearance was selected for a cook. It is surprising how quickly and accurately the Chinese imitate. Before Ciriaco could understand the language, he had already learned to cook quite well. A cloth, some ashes, and a rub or two from Martha, explained that “cleanliness was next to godliness,” and that we delighted in clean pots and pans. Martha made a pot of soup; solemnly and silently he watched every ingredient and every motion; th
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CHAPTER XXI. THE GOOD OLD PRIEST—RELIGION AND SUPERSTITION OF THE NEGROES—THE SEÑORA’S GHOST.
CHAPTER XXI. THE GOOD OLD PRIEST—RELIGION AND SUPERSTITION OF THE NEGROES—THE SEÑORA’S GHOST.
The old cura (priest) in the village had the spiritual surveillance of all the inhabitants of his partido (district); and we were often notified to discharge certain duties we owed the church, of which, being heretics, we were ignorant. I think the fine for failing to have a slave child christened before it was six months old, was nearly one hundred dollars. Every six months the cura admonished us to send to the village church the babies with their mothers, and an escudo ($2.12¹⁄₂) for each chil
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CHAPTER XXII. CATTLE—BUTTER AND CHURN—OVERRUN WITH CATS—CURIOUS VOLCANO—MAJA AND JUTIA.
CHAPTER XXII. CATTLE—BUTTER AND CHURN—OVERRUN WITH CATS—CURIOUS VOLCANO—MAJA AND JUTIA.
Although the draught cattle on the island are large and well-proportioned, the cows are poor milkers, partially from the fact that the cane-tops on which they are fed in winter are not productive of milk. The scanty product of five cows furnished us with a small pat of butter daily. Of course, nobody there ever saw a churn, and Lamo had to go to the carpenter-shop, make a dasher, and fit it to the top of a two-gallon stone jar, to provide me with one. With great care, keeping the milk-pans place
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CHAPTER XXIII. HARASSED BY THE MILITARY—LAWLESS SITUATION—MEN DRIVEN TO THE MOUNTAINS—RESTRICTED WALKS.
CHAPTER XXIII. HARASSED BY THE MILITARY—LAWLESS SITUATION—MEN DRIVEN TO THE MOUNTAINS—RESTRICTED WALKS.
I returned from a flying visit of six weeks to New York, to find Lamo harassed by the exactions of the military almost beyond endurance. The insurrection in a remote southern part of the island had furnished excuses for innumerable taxes, forced loans, and impressments of horses and cattle from the planters in every district. We, of course, did not escape. There were war-taxes, church-taxes, taxes to repair bridges we had never heard of, and to make roads we could never travel. Uniformed men lig
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CHAPTER XXIV. MURDEROUS ASSAULT—COMPLAINTS TO THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL—CARLOS GARCIA.
CHAPTER XXIV. MURDEROUS ASSAULT—COMPLAINTS TO THE CAPTAIN-GENERAL—CARLOS GARCIA.
My husband, who never knew the meaning of the word fear , rode bravely about our own domain, sometimes alone, but more frequently accompanied by an interpreter, whose services were often needed. Early one autumn morning he rode unattended to a remote part of the plantation, quite a mile distant from the house. While he could see, by the rustling of the long, slender leaves, that the plows were busy in the midst of the tall cane, and could hear the mournful creak of the wheel that was slowly draw
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CHAPTER XXV. “BEHOLD A MAN FULL OF LEPROSY!”
CHAPTER XXV. “BEHOLD A MAN FULL OF LEPROSY!”
Our merchant in Havana was a leper. Poor Don Anastasio had had the disease in increasing loathsomeness for fifteen years before we knew him—a native, I believe, of Central America, a man of wealth, cultivation, and refinement, and one of the clearest-headed, best business men in Havana—best in every sense; for, with great tact and shrewdness, he combined perfect honesty and integrity, rare virtues in those business circles. Leprosy was the inheritance of Don Anastasio; until he was thirty years
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CHAPTER XXVI. SUGAR-MAKING—DINNER AT “JOSEFITA’S”—DOMESTIC SERVICE—POOR DON PEDRO.
CHAPTER XXVI. SUGAR-MAKING—DINNER AT “JOSEFITA’S”—DOMESTIC SERVICE—POOR DON PEDRO.
During the sugar-making time in winter all was excitement and confusion on the plantations, suddenly, as if by magic, awakened from the summer’s sleepy quiet. Owners, who had city homes, came from Havana, Matanzas, Guïnes, and Guanabacoa, to el campo ; and then we, who had no city home, and had long vegetated in seclusion, enjoyed a little society. On those lovely winter days, when the roads were dry and smooth, and the skies cloudless, and the sun warm, the air redolent with the nameless odors
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CHAPTER XXVII. PARADISE—A GUAJIRO BALL—OUR NEIGHBORS—A DAY WITH THE MARQUIS.
CHAPTER XXVII. PARADISE—A GUAJIRO BALL—OUR NEIGHBORS—A DAY WITH THE MARQUIS.
Cuba is a paradise for those who are too lazy to do anything but exist, as one can live there without labor. The tall, straight palm-tree, of which the poorer houses are built, can be split from end to end with wedge and axe, the pith easily removed, and the crescent-shaped sides, weighted down with heavy rocks upon the ground, will dry as flat as planks. The trunk, split half in two, makes excellent troughs and gutters, the feathery branches thatch their dwellings, the berries furnish food for
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CHAPTER XXVIII. FERTILITY OF THE SOIL—WORK DURING SUGAR-MAKING—FIRE IN THE CANE-FIELDS.
CHAPTER XXVIII. FERTILITY OF THE SOIL—WORK DURING SUGAR-MAKING—FIRE IN THE CANE-FIELDS.
Generation after generation of thriftless Cubans cultivated the same fields, with but slight diminution in the harvests; and the belief in the inexhaustibility of the soil was so universal, that the land was neither enriched, nor allowed to rest, until the evidence of the long-continued drain became very apparent. Our own was one of the estates that had been “overworked”—first in coffee, then in cane; and realizing the necessity of thorough fertilization, we, like others, used cane-stalk ashes a
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CHAPTER XXIX. DON RUANO’S COFFEE ESTATE—COFFEE-MILLS AND COFFEE-POTS—WASTE OF FRUITS—DON RUANO AND HIS MOTHER.
CHAPTER XXIX. DON RUANO’S COFFEE ESTATE—COFFEE-MILLS AND COFFEE-POTS—WASTE OF FRUITS—DON RUANO AND HIS MOTHER.
We rode to Don Francisco Ruano’s coffee estate, hoping to hire a few hands from him to tide over the unexpected rush of work. The Don, with his octogenarian mother, had lived many years on a small and neatly managed cafetal , whose boundaries touched Desengaño. The Don never ventured farther from home than the depot or nearest village; and the aged señora su madre had not been beyond the limits of her domain for so long that she—like many others of advanced life in that voluptuous land—had lost
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CHAPTER XXX. HOUSE-BUILDING ANTS—ELLIE’S YOUNG OWLS—HENRY SAYS “ADIOS.”
CHAPTER XXX. HOUSE-BUILDING ANTS—ELLIE’S YOUNG OWLS—HENRY SAYS “ADIOS.”
Henry delighted in repairing to the bench under the zapote-trees in the garden with his lesson-books, pretending that the quiet of that retreat was conducive to mental application, but most of his time was employed in watching the movements of certain large ants that had great subterranean caves under his feet. The industrious little insects were not compelled, like the historic ant, to lay up winter stores, therefore their energies were spent in house-decorations. Their nests were huge excavati
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CHAPTER XXXI. BEAUTIFUL OCTOBER—VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAIN—TERRIBLE TEMPORAL—DEVASTATION.
CHAPTER XXXI. BEAUTIFUL OCTOBER—VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAIN—TERRIBLE TEMPORAL—DEVASTATION.
October was upon us. The summer rains had ceased, the air was full of the odor of fruit and fruit-blossoms by day, and overpowering, when the shades of evening fell, with the fragrance of the brilliant, white, night-blooming cereus, which flung its exuberant wealth of golden stamens in prodigal profusion over the coral-rock fences that bounded the grassy lawn. All nature that never donned a russet or yellow coat, or dropped a withered leaf, bloomed forth in freshly washed green. Vines, that had
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CHAPTER XXXII. DULLNESS—ISOLATION—WEARINESS—CUBA, FAREWELL!
CHAPTER XXXII. DULLNESS—ISOLATION—WEARINESS—CUBA, FAREWELL!
A Cuban life is intolerably monotonous to one who has always known activity and enterprise. In the cities there are amusements and distractions, though of a very insipid and languid nature, but in the country the dullness is oppressive. We wearied of the eternal soft, mild air; the never-varying green of the landscape; the perpetual equable temperature that made the thinnest linen comfortable—the seasons only varied by dry and wet—the dry very dry and dusty, and the wet—very wet and muddy. The c
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FLORENCE WARDEN’S PREVIOUS NOVELS.
FLORENCE WARDEN’S PREVIOUS NOVELS.
The House on the Marsh. At the World’s Mercy. Deldee; or, The Iron Hand. A Prince of Darkness. A Vagrant Wife. Doris’s Fortune. 12mo. Paper, 25 cents each. THE ROMANCE OF THE CANONESS. A LIFE-HISTORY. By Paul Heyse , author of “In Paradise,” etc. Translated from the German by J. M. Percival . 12mo. Paper, 50 cents; half bound, 75 cents. THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A SLANDER. By Edna Lyall , author of “Donovan,” “We Two,” etc. 12mo. Paper, 25 cents. The author dedicates this suggestive little book “to a
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