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A CLIMBER IN NEW ZEALAND
A CLIMBER IN NEW ZEALAND
“The superiority of the mountains to the lowlands is as immeasurable as the richness of a painted window matched with a white one, or the wealth of a museum compared with that of a small furnished chamber.” Ruskin. “The king of day lingers lovingly about his white throne in the Southern Alps, and from there he burns his brilliant fires in the heavens above and along the level world below.” Rutherford Waddell. Mount Cook. A CLIMBER IN NEW ZEALAND BY MALCOLM ROSS, A.C., F.R.G.S. FORMERLY VICE-PRES
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PREFACE
PREFACE
Some of the material contained in the following pages appeared in the London Times . My thanks are due to the manager for allowing me to republish it. Articles that have appeared in the Alpine Journal and in some of the leading Australian and New Zealand newspapers—notably the Otago Daily Times , the Christchurch Press , the Wellington Post , the New Zealand Times , the New Zealand Herald , the Melbourne Age , and the Australasian —have also been used. These articles have all been re-written or
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PREFATORY NOTE
PREFATORY NOTE
BY THE RIGHT HON. VISCOUNT BRYCE On the west side of the Southern Island of New Zealand there rises from the sea a magnificent mass of snowy mountains, whose highest peak, Aorangi or Mount Cook, reaches an elevation of 12,347 feet. Some of the loftiest summits are visible in the far distance from the railway which runs down the east coast of the island from Christchurch to Dunedin, but to appreciate the full grandeur of the range it must be seen either from out at sea or from points north of it
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CHAPTER I
CHAPTER I
DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL Wandering through an English village, not so many years ago, a friend chanced upon a dame’s school in which New Zealand was being described as “some small islands off the coast of Australia, infested with rabbits”; and only three years ago my wife was asked by a lady in the Lyceum Club, in London, if the Maoris were still cannibals, and if there were tigers in the jungle! It is not, perhaps, surprising, then, that astonishment should still be expressed when the stateme
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CHAPTER II
CHAPTER II
IN THE OLDEN DAYS From an Old Play—slightly altered. From the shoulder of the Hochstetter Dome down a long valley between the giant snow peaks of the Mount Cook Range on the one hand, and the rocky buttresses of the Malte Brun and Liebig Ranges on the other, swollen at intervals by tributary ice-streams, flowing with imperceptible movement, comes the Great Tasman Glacier—a veritable mer de glace —eighteen miles in length. Some six miles from its terminal face the Ball Glacier descends from the s
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CHAPTER III
CHAPTER III
IN THE OLDEN DAYS— concluded “We walked in the great hall of life, looking up and around reverentially. Nothing was despicable—all was meaning-full; nothing was small, but as part of a whole whose beginning and end we knew not.”— Carlyle. Next morning, though the barometer had fallen ominously, Annan and I set out to climb the Hochstetter Dome. We toiled across the crumbling moraines of the Tasman, the Ball, and the Hochstetter Glaciers, and gained the clear, hummocky ice of the latter—one of th
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CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER IV
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI Green’s memorable visit in 1882, in company with two Swiss climbers, Emil Boss and Ulrich Kaufmann, fired the enthusiasm of a number of young New Zealanders, who hoped to succeed, where he had just failed, in reaching the actual summit of Mount Cook, or, to give it its more romantic Maori name, Aorangi. But Aorangi, entrenched behind his ramparts of ice and frowning buttresses of rock, bade defiance to these inexperienced though daring Colonial pioneers in Southern moun
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CHAPTER V
CHAPTER V
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI— continued Rabindranath Tagore. A high bivouac in the Southern Alps, across which sweep the great summer ocean air currents, may, at any time, and without much warning, lend a spice of adventure to a big climb. And so it now happened. Before we could get comfortably warm in our bags, and settle down for the night, ominous gusts of wind began to flap the sides of our tent, and to send the snow swirling down the gullies. The wind gradually increased, and by half-past ten
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CHAPTER VI
CHAPTER VI
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI— continued A Fragment. While Matheson and myself were proceeding down the Tasman Valley in the rain the others stayed on at the hut, hoping for fine weather to enable them to renew the attack on Aorangi. For a little exercise and pastime they paved the earthen floor of the hut with flat stones. Next day the weather cleared sufficiently to allow of their making an excursion on the Tasman Glacier, where they got further exercise and some good practice in step-cutting. On
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CHAPTER VII
CHAPTER VII
THE CONQUERING OF AORANGI— concluded Another Fragment. All the attempts by Green’s route having ended in failure, Fyfe and George Graham now decided to try the western side of the mountain for a more direct route to the summit. Fyfe had always held the opinion that a practical way to the summit might be found from the upper part of the Hooker Glacier. On December 11th, about a month after our first arrival at the Hermitage, they started off one day to explore the Hooker side of Mount Cook. Fyfe
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CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER VIII
ABOVE THE PLAINS Anon. In the southern corner of the North Island, westward of the Wairarapa plains, there rises a mountain mass, of considerable height and boldness of formation, known as the Tararua Range. In summer the moisture-laden trade winds from the South Pacific Ocean wrap its 5000-feet summits in grey swirling mist and rain, and in winter the keen blustering squalls from the frozen south clothe its peaks and ridges with snow. Between times, there are bright days—generally during the pa
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CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER IX
DOWN IN THE VALLEYS After Bliss Carman . A book on climbing may be supposed to deal mainly with peaks, passes, and glaciers; and perhaps, in these days of the rock experts, one should add, precipices. It is supposed to be, very largely, a matter of “victories of ascent, and looking down on all that has looked down on us.” And in that phase of it, no doubt, lies the great joy of climbing. Yet the days of defeat are not altogether to be despised. For one thing they have a chastening influence upon
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CHAPTER X
CHAPTER X
AN ASCENT OF HAIDINGER “Swinging there over the world, and not high enough to get a hold on heaven, it makes you feel as if things was droppin’ away from you like.”— Gilbert Parker. Fyfe arrived at the Bivouac Rock in due course, and we began to think of other plans. It was decided to attempt the ascent of Haidinger by the eastern face. We were not yet in sufficiently good training to do ourselves justice on difficult climbs, and were moreover somewhat tired with the previous day’s exertions. On
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CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XI
AN INTERLUDE “A man may feel thankful, heartily thankful, over a dish of plain mutton with turnips, and have no leisure to reflect upon the ordinance and institution of eating; when he shall confess a perturbation of mind, inconsistent with the purposes of the grace, at the presence of venison or turtle.”— Charles Lamb. On January the 31st we went down to the hut, photographing on the way. Next day Fyfe had to go over the Ball Pass with a Government official from Wellington, and Hodgkins returne
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CHAPTER XII
CHAPTER XII
DE LA BÊCHE AND THE MINARETS Christina Rossetti. In the days when we first visited the Mount Cook region we thought De la Bêche would be an easy mountain to climb. But our youthful eagerness and inexperience led us into some difficult situations, and then we began to think it was a difficult mountain to climb. In after years one was apt to smile at the recollection of those early attempts, which, try we ever so bravely, always ended in failure, and moved us to sadness. Yet, if they had to be mad
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CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIII
ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS “A wretched invention, forsooth, for people who wish to push on is ‘a line of retreat,’ an everlasting inducement to look behind, when they should have enough to do in looking ahead.”— Nansen. When we were on the Hochstetter Dome, and subsequently, when we climbed Haidinger and De la Bêche, we saw, far below us, the silver streaks of rivers winding seaward through the sombre forests, and cast longing eyes adown the western slopes of the Alps. The more we saw the more we
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CHAPTER XIV
CHAPTER XIV
ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS— continued Good Luck had walked with us over the pass and down the valley; but at this point of the journey she must have either outdistanced our lagging footsteps or returned the way she came. Anyhow, she left us, and our troubles began. When we halted the warm sun had left the narrow valley, and before we could get a fire going the chill air began to search out the very marrow in our bones. The dryness of the eastern side of the range had given place to the humidity of
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CHAPTER XV
CHAPTER XV
ACROSS THE SOUTHERN ALPS— concluded “The’ was ’bout half a minit when I’d hev sold out mighty cheap an’ took a promise fer the money.”— American Author. When dawn came, Fyfe was still tossing restlessly in his sleeping bag. We got up at 5 a.m., and partially undressed for the crossing of the river. We got over the first branch without difficulty; but the second stream ran swift and deep. Fyfe got near mid-stream, hesitated a moment, and then plunged ahead. But he had scarcely gone a couple of ya
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CHAPTER XVI
CHAPTER XVI
IN KIWI LAND Tennyson. In that far corner of New Zealand where the long fingers of the fiords reach inland towards the mountain ranges, amidst which lie the great deep lakes, there is a region rich in its surpassing beauty and ever ready to offer a store of stern adventure to the modest climber who delights in the untrodden ways. It is true the mountains are not high—as heights go in these modern days—yet even the Abruzzis and the Bullock-Workmans, your Conways and your Collies would, in the tim
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CHAPTER XVII
CHAPTER XVII
IN KIWI LAND— continued Robert Haven Schauffler. The time had now arrived for us, on this journey, to do a little climbing and some real exploration, so one morning early in May, and much too late in the season, Fyfe, Hodgkins, Kenneth, and I started off up the Cleddau River, with the object of making a first ascent of Tutoko, the highest mountain in Fiordland. The guide who convoys tourists overland to Milford from Te Anau and vice versa accompanied us. So far as we could ascertain from him, an
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CHAPTER XVIII
CHAPTER XVIII
THE FIRST CROSSING OF MOUNT COOK Christina Rossetti. I had been in the hands of my doctor, and had made a good recovery. It was not surprising, therefore, that with renewed health and summer suns there should fall upon me that irresistible longing for the mountains that so often comes across the dreary miles to the city man. In imagination I was already drinking in the champagne air of those higher lands, and seeing, in my mind’s eye, the ever-changing scenes of the Southern Alps. But I had give
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CHAPTER XIX
CHAPTER XIX
THE FIRST CROSSING OF MOUNT COOK— continued Geoffrey Winthrop Young. During the next seven days my ankle mended slowly, and a biologist—the nearest approach to a doctor within ninety miles—expressed the opinion that there was a splinter off the bone. So far as I was concerned I had now given up all thoughts of attempting the ascent of Mount Cook; for, with a weak leg, I should be likely to endanger the whole party. It was with a sad heart that I watched the expedition start off once more for the
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CHAPTER XX
CHAPTER XX
THE FIRST CROSSING OF MOUNT COOK— concluded Dante Gabriel Rossetti. We spent altogether twenty-five minutes on the summit of the mountain—12,349 feet above the sea. The views were certainly grand and very beautiful, but not so fine as from between the altitudes of 10,000 and 11,000 feet, for the simple reason that, from the greater height of the summit, all the lesser mountains were dwarfed, and many of those that looked imposing from below had now dwindled into insignificance. Having repacked o
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THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL SIR HARRY RAWSON, G.C.B., G.C.M.G.
THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL SIR HARRY RAWSON, G.C.B., G.C.M.G.
By LIEUT. GEOFFREY RAWSON, R.I.M. With Illustrations. Demy 8vo. 12s. 6d. net. This book, which has been written by a relative of the late Admiral Sir Harry Rawson, gives a deeply interesting account of the Admiral’s long and varied career in China, the Near East, Africa and Australia. Entering the Navy as long ago as 1857, when the sailing ship still held the seas, Sir Harry, as a young cadet, thirteen years of age, took part in the China War of 1858-60, being present in the Calcutta’s launch at
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RICHARD CORFIELD OF SOMALILAND.
RICHARD CORFIELD OF SOMALILAND.
By H. F. PREVOST-BATTERSBY, War Correspondent of the “Morning Post” in South Africa and Somaliland . Illustrated. Demy 8vo. It was the news of his death that made the world acquainted with Corfield’s name, but everyone who had served with him knew him as a man of extraordinary charm, with some secret source of power which had an amazing influence over savage peoples, and regarded a notable future as assured to him. He had gone as a mere boy to the South African War, serving afterwards in the Sou
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TEACHING FOR LADS.
TEACHING FOR LADS.
For use in Bible Classes and Confirmation Classes. By the REV. PETER GREEN, M.A., Rector of St. Philip’s, Salford, and Canon of Manchester; Author of “How To Deal with Lads,” “How To Deal with Men.” Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. net. This book is intended primarily for the use of those who have to give instruction to boys in Sunday Schools, Church Lads’ Brigades’ Bible Classes, and similar institutions, and has been written in response to many and constant inquiries from people desirous of help in such tea
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THE ORIGIN OF ATTIC COMEDY.
THE ORIGIN OF ATTIC COMEDY.
By F. M. CORNFORD, Fellow and Lecturer of Trinity College, Cambridge ; Author of “From Religion to Philosophy,” “Thucydides Mythistoricus,” etc. One Volume. Demy 8vo. 8s. 6d. net. This book tries to show that the peculiar structure and features of Aristophanic Comedy can be explained by an hypothesis like that by which Professor Gilbert Murray explains the form of Greek Tragedy. A detailed examination of the extant plays brings to light, under all their variety, a plot-formula composed of a regu
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THE REVIVAL OF THE RELIGIOUS LIFE.
THE REVIVAL OF THE RELIGIOUS LIFE.
By FATHER PAUL BULL, Of the House of the Resurrection, Mirfield . Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. net. The purpose of the author of this volume is to give an outline sketch of the ideals of the Religious Life, and the attempts to realize that life in history, and to trace the various manifestations and interpretations of the ascetic and mystic spirit of the Gospel. Father Bull has spent twenty-two years of his life in trying to realize these ideals, and feels that both the infinite joy of the attempts and al
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ESSAYS ON FAITH AND IMMORTALITY.
ESSAYS ON FAITH AND IMMORTALITY.
By GEORGE TYRRELL. Arranged, with Introduction, by M. D. PETRE, his Biographer. One Volume. Crown 8vo. 5s. net. This volume comprises, for the most part, matter hitherto unpublished which existed in the form of notes and essays amongst the MSS. which Father Tyrrell left behind him. To this have been added a few articles already published, either in England or abroad, in various periodicals, but which are not now easily obtainable, and which possess a certain importance. One of these latter essay
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BARBARA LYNN.
BARBARA LYNN.
By EMILY JENKINSON, Author of “Silverwool,” “The Soul of Unrest,” etc. Crown 8vo. 6s. In “Barbara Lynn” the author returns to the English Lake District—the scene of her novel “Silverwool”; and from the first page, where the reader is taken to the “Lonely Steading in the Dale,” right on to the end, he is not only surrounded by the mighty hills and vast solitudes of Nature, but made to feel the pulse of romance and tragedy. “Barbara Lynn” shows a distinct advance in the work of this gifted young w
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Important Books Recently Issued.
Important Books Recently Issued.
LORD LYONS: A Record of British Diplomacy. By LORD NEWTON. 2 vols. 30s. net. “A great biography, a classical record of the career of one of the greatest of British Ambassadors.”— Saturday Review. Life and Letters of George Villiers , FOURTH EARL OF CLARENDON. By Sir HERBERT MAXWELL, Bart. 2 vols. 30s. net. “Not since Lord Morley’s ‘Life of Gladstone’ was published have we had so useful a contribution as this book to the history of the Victorian era.”— Daily Chronicle. PRIMATE ALEXANDER: Archbish
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