A Yacht Voyage To Norway, Denmark, And Sweden
William A. Ross
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20 chapters
W. A. ROSS, ESQ.
W. A. ROSS, ESQ.
Ver erat: errabam: Zephyrus conspexit: abibam: Insequitur: fugio. Ovid. Fast. , Lib. v. TO AN AMIABLE AND A GENEROUS FRIEND, ROBERT, LORD RODNEY, I DEDICATE THIS VOLUME, IN TOKEN OF ADMIRATION, GRATITUDE, AND AFFECTION....
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ERRATA.
ERRATA.
Page 79, line 14, for "Nelson," read "Gambier." 92, omit "to the eye." 100, line 12, for "Nelson's," read "Gambier's." 145, last line, for "Braggesen," read "Baggesen." 165, line 31, for "they had endured," read "each of them had endured." 201, line 9, read "as here at Gottenborg." 239, line 33, for "immovably," read "immoveably." 243, line 6, for "jibbed," read "jibed." 286, line 18, for "everywhere," read "ever where." 327, line 10, for "than me," read "than I." 338, line 31, for "jibbing," re
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM GREENWICH—THE HISTORY OF THE IRIS YACHT—SHEERNESS—HARWICH—UNDER WEIGH—THE NORTH SEA—SAIL IN SIGHT—THE MAIL OVERBOARD—SPEAKING THE NORWEGIAN. I believe the old Italian proverb says, that every man, before he dies, should do three things: "Get a son, build a house, and write a book." Now, whether or not I am desirous, by beginning at the end, to end at the beginning of this quaint axiom, I leave the reader to conjecture. My book may afford amusement to him who will smile when I am g
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
FOGGY WEATHER—FIRST VIEW OF NORWAY—CHRISTIANSAND FIORD—ARRIVAL AT CHRISTIANSAND—DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN—THE TOPTDAL RIVER—EXCURSION INLAND—THE ENTHUSIASTIC ANGLER—RUSTIC LODGINGS—HUNTING THE BEAR—THE TRAP—THE DEATH—NORWEGIAN LIBERALITY. Sunday, the 9th, dawned on us, tossed about on a troubled sea indeed; for a strong wind was blowing from E.S.E. However, at eight o'clock, just before breakfast, we sounded in thirty-five fathoms. We had scarcely concluded this cautious operation before the wind
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
DEPARTURE FROM CHRISTIANSAND—THE PILOT'S PRAM—SKAW POINT—DELINQUENCIES OF JACKO—EXPENSIVE CANNONADING—ELSINEUR—HAMLET'S WALK—THE MINISTER, STRUENSEE—STORY OF QUEEN CAROLINE-MATILDA—LEGEND OF THE SERF. Thursday broke without a cloud. The wind breathed softly over the mountains from the West. We had no object to detain us longer, for the present, in Norway, and so the cutter was got under weigh. The wind gradually increased, and, at eight o'clock, we passed the Oxoe Light, at the eastern extremity
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
THE PILOT—TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER—DISTANT VIEW OF COPENHAGEN—LORD NELSON—THE BATTLE OF THE BALTIC—THE HARBOUR-MASTER—INTEREST EXCITED BY THE YACHT'S ARRIVAL—THE ARTIST—THE ANGLER—WE GO ASHORE. At twelve o'clock the pilot stepped on board, and, in a few minutes, with a freshening wind from the westward, we were on our way to the Danish capital. To a warm, unclouded morning, a wet dark day succeeded; and, except between the chasms of flying clouds, the sun wholly withheld its light. The rain fell, at
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
COPENHAGEN—THE CAFE—THE DILEMMA—THE GUARD—COMPLIMENT TO ENGLAND—DESCRIPTION OF THE HARBOUR AND FORTIFICATIONS—DELINQUENT SAILORS—THE CITY ON SUNDAY—NEGRO COMMISSIONAIRE—A WALK THROUGH THE CITY—NOTICES OF THE VARIOUS PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Punctual to our engagement, we met Mr. C——, after dinner at half-past seven. After wandering over the town for some time without any definite object, I grumbled at the system of enjoyment we had adopted. The streets not being paved so well as the worst streets in Lo
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
THE CASINO—THE ROYAL FAMILY OF DENMARK—SUCCESSION TO HOLSTEIN—THE ENGLISH CONSUL—VISIT TO THE ENGLISH AMBASSADOR—COLOSSAL STATUE OF CHRISTIAN THE FIFTH—ANECDOTE OF BELZONI—TRINITY CHURCH—EXTRAORDINARY FEAT OF PETER THE GREAT—DUCKING AN OFFENDER—PALACE OF CHRISTIANSBORG—THE EXCHANGE—THE CASTLE OF ROSENBERG. At seven o'clock, we went to the Casino; and, trusting that we had deceived Mr. C——, renewed our acquaintance with the gentleman in spectacles. The room, an immense one, was lighted from the l
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
DINNER AT THE EMBASSY—MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE DANES—THE SPANISH AMBASSADOR AND THE ENGLISH EXILE—THE CITADEL—STORY OF THE TWO CAPTIVES—JOE WASHIMTUM, AGAIN—A DANISH DINNER—VISIT TO THE THEATRE—POLITICAL REFLECTIONS—FESTIVITIES ON BOARD THE YACHT—MERRY PARTY AT THE AMERICAN AMBASSADOR'S—THE DUCHIES OF SCHLESWIG AND HOLSTEIN. At the Embassy we met, besides other guests, whose names I remember not, the Baron de B——, a Holstein noble, and the Spanish Minister, from both of whom, during the time w
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE EXILE'S SOUVENIR—THE DISAPPOINTED ARTIST—DEPARTURE FROM COPENHAGEN—ARRIVAL AT ELSINEUR—DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN—THE CASTLE OF CRONENBORG—HAMLET'S GARDEN—ESROM LAKE—THE LEGEND OF ESROM MONASTERY—THE FRENCH WAR-STEAMER—SAILING UP THE CATTEGAT. I rose early on the following morning, and went ashore with R——, who desired to purchase some cherry cordial, rum and brandy, since this was the last city of any importance we should visit, before our arrival at Christiania, or Bergen. The first object wh
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
ARRIVAL AT FALKENBORG—THE STORM—THE YACHT IN DANGER—SAFE ANCHORAGE—VISIT TO FALKENBORG—LUDICROUS ADVENTURE—A DRIVE INTO THE INTERIOR—GREAT SCARCITY EXPERIENCED BY THE INHABITANTS—DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY—THE DISAPPOINTED ANGLERS—KONGSBACKA—THE YACHT RUNS AGROUND—GOTTENBORG. Æolus seems to be the same good-natured deity Virgil represents him to have been in the days of Æneas, and open to any supplication which may be preferred to his rocky throne, whether it be by mythological Juno, or material
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
THE CASINO AT GOTTENBORG—AWKWARD DILEMMA—THE WATCHMAN AND THE NORTHERN STAR—SWEDISH ARTILLERY—THE GROVE—AN OLD MAN'S HISTORY—THE ALARM OF FIRE—THE CARRIAGE OVERTURNED—THE RIVER GOTHA—WASHING IN THE STREAM—THE NARROW STREETS—DESCRIPTION OF GOTTENBORG—ITS DECAYED COMMERCE—THE HERRING FISHERY. R—— and P—— had expressed a wish to visit the Falls of Trolhättan, and, the Iris had scarcely touched the quay, before they started in search of a carriage to convey them to the Falls. As I knew we should sai
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
RETURN TO NORWAY—SAIL UP THE GULF—APPROACH TO CHRISTIANIA—ITS APPEARANCE FROM THE WATER—ANECDOTE OF BERNADOTTE—DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY—THE FORTRESS—CHARLES THE XIITH—THE CONVICTS—STORY OF THE CAPTURED CANNON—THE HIGHWAYMAN—PROSPECT FROM THE MOUNTAINS—THE NORWEGIAN PEASANT GIRL. Wednesday dawned cloudless; and the round, red Sun rose on our right hand, and glared through his magnifying lattice, the mist, to see us come back again to Norway. The smooth and glassy surface of the tideless Fiord, hem
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
A DRIVE INTO THE INTERIOR—EXTENSIVE AND SUBLIME PROSPECT—NORWEGIAN POST-HOUSES—REPAIR OF THE ROADS—PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. On Sunday morning, we went to Krokleven, a spot about twenty miles from Christiania, and celebrated for its scenery. The journey thither was unpleasant enough, for the day was hot, and the roads were dry; and, when the Norwegian started off at the usual speed of his countrymen, the dust, disturbed by the horses' hooves and the carriage wheels, rose in volumes, which over
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
THE YACHT UNDER SAIL—JACKO OVERBOARD—FREDRICKSVÆRN—THE UNION JACK—SCENERY ON THE LARVIG RIVER—TRANSIT OF TIMBER—SALMON FISHING—THE DEFEATED ANGLER—LUDICROUS ADVENTURE WITH AN EAGLE—RESULT OF THE ANGLING EXPEDITION—THE BEVY OF LADIES—NORWEGIAN DINNER-PARTY SINGULAR AND AMUSING CUSTOMS. At eight o'clock on Tuesday morning, the 6th, we started for Larvig. About sixty miles from Christiania, at the mouth of the Fiord, a fine, light air sprung up, and, delighted with the expectation that we should re
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
ANOTHER FISHING EXCURSION—LANDING A SALMON—THE CARRIOLE—BOATS ROWED BY LADIES—DEPARTURE FROM LARVIG—CHRISTIANSAND HARBOUR—RETURN TO BOOM—SINCERE WELCOME—ANGLING AT THE FALLS—THE FORSAKEN ANGLER—A MISUNDERSTANDING—RECONCILIATION—ST. JOHN'S DAY—SIMPLICITY OF MANNERS. On Tuesday morning, at three, I joined R—— and P——, and took a second trip up the river, to indulge in this pastime of angling. When we arrived on our fishing ground, the salmon were seen springing two or three feet out of the water i
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
SAILING UP THE GRON FIORD—DANGEROUS SWELL—EXCURSION ASHORE—TROUT-FISHING—MOUNTAIN SCENERY—ANT-HILLS—HAZARDOUS DRIVE—THE SCOTTISH EMIGRANT—MISERABLE LODGING—CONDITION OF THE PEASANTRY—A VILLAGE PATRIARCH—COSTUME OF THE COUNTRY-PEOPLE—ARRIVAL AT FÆDDE. On Wednesday, the 30th, we left Boom, having, during the ten days R—— and P—— had remained there, caught two hundred and sixty-four salmon. On the afternoon of Wednesday, we landed at Christiansand for an hour, to arrange a few accounts, and then sa
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
RETURN TO THE YACHT—POOR JACKO—ASCENDING THE STREAM—DESCRIPTION OF THE FÆDDE FIORD—ADVENTURES OF AN ANGLER—SAIL TO THE BUKKE FIORD—THE FATHOMLESS LAKE—THE MANIAC, AND HER HISTORY—THE VILLAGE OF SAND—EXTRAORDINARY PECULIARITIES OF THE SAND SALMON—SEAL-HUNTING—SHOOTING GULLS—THE SEAL CAUGHT—NIGHT IN THE NORTH. "I hope, my Lord," observed D——, as he stood at the gangway of the yacht, and handed the man-ropes to R——, "you have had a pleasanter voyage than we." "Why? Has any accident occurred?" asked
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
THE DANGEROUS STRAITS—BRITISH SEAMANSHIP—THE GLACIERS OF FOLGEFONDE—BERGEN—HABITS OF THE FISHERMEN—THE SOGNE FIORD—LEERDAL—ARRIVAL AT AURON—A HOSPITABLE HOST—ASCENDING THE MOUNTAINS—THE TWO SHEPHERDESSES—HUNTING THE REIN-DEER—ADVENTURE ON THE MOUNTAINS—SLAUGHTERING DEER—THE FAWN. The time was now drawing to a close that we had purposed to spend in Norway, because we desired to return to England and be present at the regattas which usually take place towards the latter part of July, or commenceme
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CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE SICK SAILOR—THE STORM—THE LEE-SHORE—"BREAKERS A-HEAD"—THE YACHT IN DISTRESS—WEATHERING THE STORM—RETURN TO BERGEN—THE PHYSICIAN—THE WHIRLPOOL—THE WATER-SPOUT—HOMEWARD BOUND—SCARBOROUGH—YARMOUTH ROADS—ERITH—GREENWICH HOSPITAL—CONCLUSION. Whatever might have been my refinement of feeling, I was not deterred from eating venison for a week afterwards, day by day, and assenting to its delicious flavour, which, for the satisfaction of the son of Epicurus who may read these lines, I would state, ta
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