Expedition To Lake Itasca - free ebook by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft

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Expedition To Lake Itasca

Henry Rowe Schoolcraft

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DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

[ii] [iii] SUMMARY NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORATORY EXPEDITION TO THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, IN 1820: RESUMED AND COMPLETED, BY THE DISCOVERY OF ITS ORIGIN IN ITASCA LAKE, IN 1832. By Authority of the United States WITH APPENDIXES, COMPRISING THE ORIGINAL REPORT ON THE COPPER MINES OF LAKE SUPERIOR, AND OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE BASINS, AND THE SUMMIT OF THE MISSISSIPPI; TOGETHER WITH ALL THE OFFICIAL REPORTS AND SCIENTIFIC PAPERS OF BOTH EXPEDITIONS. BY HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.

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PREFACE.

PREFACE.

The following pages embrace the substance of the narratives of two distinct expeditions for the discovery of the sources of the Mississippi River, under the authority of the United States. By connecting the incidents of discovery, and of the facts brought to light during a period of twelve years, unity is preserved in the prosecution of an object of considerable importance in the progress of our geography and natural history, at least, from the new impulse which they received after the treaty of

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INTRODUCTION.

INTRODUCTION.

Charlevoix informs us that the discovery of the Mississippi River is due to father Marquette, a Jesuit missionary, who manifested the most unwearied enterprise in exploring the north-western regions of New France; and after laying the foundation of Michilimackinac, proceeded, in company with Sieur Joliet, up the Fox River of Green Bay, and, crossing the portage into the Wisconsin, first entered the Mississippi in 1673. Robert de la Salle, to whom the merit of this discovery is generally attribut

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I.

I.

Detroit , November 18, 1819. Sir : The country upon the southern shore of Lake Superior, and upon the water communication between that Lake and the Mississippi, has been but little explored, and its natural features are imperfectly known. We have no correct topographical delineation of it, and the little information we possess relating to it has been derived from the reports of the Indian traders. It has occurred to me that a tour through that country, with a view to examine the productions of i

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II.

II.

Department of War , January 14, 1820. Sir : I have received your letters of the 18th and 21st November last. The exploring tour you propose has the sanction of the Government, provided the expenditure can be made out of the sum allotted your superintendency for Indian affairs, adding thereto one thousand dollars for that special purpose. The objects of this expedition are comprised under the five heads stated in your letter of the 18th of November, and which you will consider—with the exception

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III.

III.

Department of War , February 25, 1820. Sir : Mr. Schoolcraft, a gentleman of science and observation, and particularly skilled in mineralogy, has applied to me to be permitted to accompany you on your exploring tour upon Lake Superior. I have directed him to report to you, for that duty, under the belief that he will be highly useful to you, as well as serviceable to the Government and the promotion of science. You will furnish him with the necessary supplies and accommodation while employed, an

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IV.

IV.

I therefore take the liberty of recommending that a cession of these islands be procured by the United States from the Indians. I presume that this may be done without the payment of any annuity to them, and without any expense, except, perhaps, a few trifling presents. The plaster would then be at the disposal of Government, and its free distribution, under such regulations as might be adopted to prevent disputes between the adventurers, or a monopoly by any of them, would be equally proper and

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V.

V.

Extract of a letter from the Secretary of War to Governor Lewis Cass, dated April 5, 1820. Sir: I have received your letters of the 10th, 11th, and 17th ultimo. In relation to procuring cessions of land from the Indians, the Government has decided that it would be inexpedient to obtain any farther extinguishment of Indian title, except at the Sault de St. Marie, where it is the wish of the Department, that an inconsiderable cession, not exceeding ten miles square (unless strong reasons for a gre

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VI.

VI.

Northern Division. Adjutant-General's Office , 10th February, 1819. (DIVISION ORDER.) Major-General Macomb, commandant of the 5th military department, will, without delay, concentrate at Detroit the 5th regiment of Infantry, excepting the recruits otherwise directed by the general order herewith transmitted. As soon as the navigation of the Lakes will admit, he will cause the regiment to be transported to Fort Howard; from thence, by the way of the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, to Prairie du Chien,

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VII.

VII.

Assistant Adjutant-General's Office. Detroit , April 13, 1819. ( Department Order. ) The season having now arrived when the lakes may be navigated with safety, a detachment of the 5th regiment, to consist of Major Marston's and Captain Fowle's companies, under the command of Major Muhlenburg, will proceed to Green Bay. Surgeon's mate R. M. Byrne, of the 5th regiment, will accompany the detachment. The assistant deputy quartermaster-general will furnish the necessary transport, and will send by t

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CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

Departure—Considerations on visiting the northern summits early in the season—Cross the Highlands of the Hudson—Incidents of the journey from Albany to Buffalo—Visit Niagara Falls—Their grandeur the effect of magnitude—Embark on board the steamer Walk-in-the-Water—Passage up Lake Erie—Reach Detroit. The determination to penetrate to the source of the Mississippi, during the summer months, made an early departure important. I had, while at Potosi, in Missouri, during the prior month of February,

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CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.

Preparations for the expedition—Constitution of the party—Mode of travel in canoes—Embarkation, and incidents of the journey across the Lake, and up the River St. Clair—Head winds encountered on Lake Huron—Point aux barques—Cross Saganaw Bay—Delays in ascending the Huron coast—Its geology and natural history—Reach Michilimackinac. From the moment of our arrival at Detroit, we devoted ourselves, with intensity, to the preparation necessary for entering the wilderness. We were to travel, from this

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CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER III.

Description of Michilimackinac—Prominent scenery—Geology—Arched Rock—Sugarloaf Rock—History—Statistics—Mineralogy—Skull Cave—Manners—Its fish, agriculture, moral wants—Ingenious manufactures of the Indians—Fur trade—Etymology of the word—Antique bones disclosed in the interior of the island. Nothing can exceed the beauty of this island. It is a mass of calcareous rock, rising from the bed of Lake Huron, and reaching an elevation of more than three hundred feet above the water. The waters around

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CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER IV.

Proceed down the north shore of Lake Huron to the entrance of the Straits of St. Mary's—Character of the shores, and incidents—Ascend the river to Sault de Ste. Marie—Hostilities encountered there—Intrepidity of General Cass. Having spent six days on the island, rambling about it, and making ourselves as well acquainted with its features and inhabitants as possible, we felt quite recruited and cheered up, after the tedious delays along the southern shores of Lake Huron. And we all felt the bette

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CHAPTER V.

CHAPTER V.

Embark at the head of the portage at St. Mary's—Entrance into Lake Superior—Journey and incidents along its coasts—Great Sand Dunes—Pictured Rocks—Grand Island—Keweena peninsula and portage—Incidents thence to Ontonagon River. Having accomplished the object of our visit, at this place, no time was lost in pushing our way into the basin of Lake Superior. The distance to it is computed to be fifteen miles above the Sault. It was nine o'clock of the morning following the day of the treaty, when the

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CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER VI.

Chippewa village at the mouth of the Ontonagon—Organize an expedition to explore its mineralogy—Incidents of the trip—Rough nature of the country—Reach the copper rock—Misadventure—Kill a bear—Discoveries of copper—General remarks on the mineral affluence of the basin of Lake Superior. A small Chippewa village, under the chieftainship of Tshwee-tshweesh-ke-wa, or the Plover, and Kundekund, the Net Buoy, was found on the west bank of the river, near its mouth, the chiefs and warriors of which rec

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CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER VII.

Proceed along the southern coast of Lake Superior from the Ontonagon, to Fond du Lac—Porcupine range of mountains—Streams that run from it, at parallel distances, into the lake—La Pointe—Group of the Federation Islands—River St. Louis—Physical geography of Lake Superior. Head winds detained the expedition at the mouth of the Ontonagon, during the day and the day following that of our arrival from the copper rock. It was the first of July, at half-past four o'clock, A. M., when the state of the l

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CHAPTER VIII.

CHAPTER VIII.

Proceed up the St. Louis River, and around its falls and rapids to Sandy Lake in the valley of the Upper Mississippi—Grand Portage—Portage aux Coteaux—A sub-exploring party—Cross the great morass of Akeek Scepi to Sandy Lake—Indian mode of pictographic writing—Site of an Indian jonglery—Post of Sandy Lake. We had now reached above nine hundred and fifty miles from our starting-point at Detroit, and had been more than forty days in traversing the shores of Lakes Huron and Superior. July had alrea

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CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER IX.

Reunion of the expedition on the Savanna Portage—Elevation of this summit—Descent to Sandy Lake—Council with the Chippewa tribe—Who are they?—Traits of their history, language, and customs—Enter the Mississippi, with a sub-exploring party, and proceed in search of its source—Physical characteristics of the stream at this place—Character of the Canadian voyageur! On rising on the next morning (14th July), our minds were firmly set, at the earliest moment, to rejoin the main expedition, which had

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CHAPTER X.

CHAPTER X.

Proceed up the Mississippi River—Its velocity and character—Swan River—Trout River, and Mushkoda or Prairie River—Rapids ascended—Reach, and make a portage around Pakagama Falls—Enter a vast lacustrine region—Its character and productions, vegetable and animal—Tortuous channel—Vermilion and Deer Rivers—Leech Lake branch—Lake Winnipek—Ascent of the river to Upper Red Cedar, or Cass Lake—Physical character of the Mississippi River. Our encampment was near the mouth of Swan River, a considerable st

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CHAPTER XI.

CHAPTER XI.

Physical traits of the Mississippi—The elevation of its sources—Its velocity and mean descent—Etymology of the name Mississippi—Descent of the river to Sandy Lake, and thence to the Falls of St. Anthony—Recross the great Bitobi Savanna—Pakagama formation—Description of the voyage from Sandy Lake to Pine River—Brief notices of the natural history. The third geographical division in which it is proposed to consider the Mississippi, begins at the Falls of St. Anthony. Within half a day's march, bef

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CHAPTER XII.

CHAPTER XII.

Description of the descent from Pine River—Pine tracts—Confluence of the Crow-wing River—Enter a sylvan region—prairies and groves, occupied by deer, elk, and buffalo—Sport of buffalo hunting—Reach elevations of sienitic and metamorphic rocks—Discover a pictographic inscription of the Sioux, by which they denote a desire for peace—Pass the Osaukes, St. Francis's, Corneille, and Rum Rivers—St. Anthony's Falls—Etymology of the name—Geographical considerations. The night dew was heavy on this eleva

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CHAPTER XIII.

CHAPTER XIII.

Position of the military post established at the mouth of the St. Peter's—Beauty, salubrity, and fertility of the country—Pictographic letter—Indian treaty—The appearance of the offer of frankincense in the burning of tobacco—Opwagonite—native pigments—Salt; native copper—The pouched or prairie rat—Minnesota squirrel—Etymology of the Indian name of St. Peter's River—Antiquities—Sketch of the Dacota—Descent of the Mississippi to Little Crow's village—Feast of green corn. In favor of the soil and

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CHAPTER XIV.

CHAPTER XIV.

Descent of the river from the site of Little Crow's Village to Prairie du Chien—Incidents of the voyage, and notices of the scenery and natural history. The next morning we embarked at 5 o'clock. On descending the river six miles, we passed the mouth of the St. Croix. [97] This stream heads on high lands, which form a rim of hills around the southern and western shores of Lake Superior, where it is connected with the River Misacoda, or Broulè of Fond du Lac. The Namakagon, its southern branch o

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CHAPTER XV.

CHAPTER XV.

Mr. Schoolcraft makes a visit to the lead mines of Dubuque—Incidents of the trip—Description of the mines—The title of occupancy, and the mode of the mines being worked by the Fox tribe of Indians—Who are the Foxes? I solicited permission of Gov. Cass to visit the lead mines of Dubuque, which are situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, at the computed distance of twenty-five leagues below Prairie du Chien. Furnished with a light canoe, manned by eight voyageurs, including a guide, I left t

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CHAPTER XVI.

CHAPTER XVI.

The expedition proceeds from Prairie du Chein up the Wisconsin Valley—Incidents of the ascent—Etymology of the name—The low state of its waters favorable to the observation of its fresh-water conchology—Cross the Wisconsin summit, and descend the Fox River to Winnebago Lake. We were now at the foot of the Wisconsin Valley—at the point, in fact, where Marquette and Joliet, coming from the forests and lakes of New France, had discovered the great River of the West, in 1673. Marquette, led by his r

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CHAPTER XVII.

CHAPTER XVII.

Descent of the Fox River from Winnebago Lake to Green Bay—Incidents—Etymology, conchology, mineralogy—Falls of the Konomic and Kakala—Population and antiquity of the settlement of Green Bay—Appearances of a tide, not sustained. A rapid commences at the precise point where Fox River issues from Winnebago Lake. This rapid, down which canoes descend with half loads, extends a mile and a half, when the river assumes its usual navigable form, presenting a noble volume. Nine miles below this, a ledge

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CHAPTER XVIII.

CHAPTER XVIII.

The expedition traces the west shores of Lake Michigan southerly to Chicago—Outline of the journey along this coast—Sites of Manitoowoc, Sheboigan, Milwaukie, Racine, and Chicago, being the present chief towns and cities of Wisconsin and Illinois on the west shores of that Lake—Final reorganization of the party and departure from Chicago. Two days spent in preparations to reorganize the expedition, enabled it to continue its explorations. For the purpose of tracing the western and northern shore

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CHAPTER XIX.

CHAPTER XIX.

South and Eastern borders of Lake Michigan—Their Flora and Fauna—Incidents of the journey—Topography—Geology, Botany, and Mineralogy—Indian Tribes—Burial-place of Marquette—Ruins of the post of old Mackinac—Reach Michilimackinac after a canoe journey north of four hundred miles. It was now the last day of August. Having partaken of the hospitalities of Mr. Kinzie, and of Captains Bradley and Green, of Fort Dearborn, during our stay at Chicago, and completed the reorganization of our parties, we

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CHAPTER XX.

CHAPTER XX.

Topographical survey of the northern shores of Green Bay and of the entire basin of Lake Michigan—Geological and Mineralogical indicia of the coast line—Era of sailing vessels and of the steamboat on the lakes—Route along the Huron coast, and return of the expedition to Detroit. The coast line traversed by the party detached from Green Bay on the 22d of August, under Mr. Trowbridge, extended from the north shore of Fox River to the entrance of the Monominee River, and thence around the Little an

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CHAPTER XXI.

CHAPTER XXI.

The search for the veritable source of the Mississippi is resumed.—Ascent to Cass Lake, the prior point of discovery—Pursue the river westerly, through the Andrúsian Lakes and up the Metoswa Rapids, forty-five miles—Queen Anne's Lake. Twelve years elapse between the closing of the prior, and the opening of the present narrative. In the month of August, 1830, instructions were received by Mr. Schoolcraft to proceed into the Upper Mississippi valley, to endeavor to terminate the renewed hostilitie

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CHAPTER XXII.

CHAPTER XXII.

Ascent of the Mississippi above Queen Anne's Lake—Reach the primary forks of the river—Ascend the left-hand, or minor branch—Lake Irving—Lake Marquette—Lake La Salle—Lake Plantagenet—Encamp at the Naiwa rapids at the base of the Height of Land, or Itasca Summit. A short halt was made on entering Queen Anne's Lake, to examine an object of Indian superstition on its east shore. This consisted of one of those water-worn boulders which assume the shape of a rude image, and to which the Chippewas app

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CHAPTER XXIII.

CHAPTER XXIII.

The Expedition having reached the source of the east fork in Assawa Lake, crosses the highlands of the Hauteurs de Terre to the source of the main or west fork in Itasca Lake. The next morning (13th) a dense fog prevailed. We had found the atmosphere warm, but charged with water and vapors, which frequently condensed into showers. The evenings and nights were, however, cool, at the precise time of the earth hiding the sun's disk. It was five o'clock before we could discern objects with sufficien

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CHAPTER XXIV.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Descent of the west, or Itascan branch—Kakabikoñs Falls—Junction of the Chemaun, Peniddiwin, or De Soto, and Allenoga Rivers—Return to Cass Lake. Itasca Lake lies in latitude twenty-five seconds only south of Leech Lake, and five minutes and eleven seconds west of the ultimate northerly point of the Mississippi, on the Queen Anne summit; it is a fraction over twelve minutes southwest of Cass Lake. The distance from the latter point, at which discovery rested in 1820, is, agreeably to the observa

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CHAPTER XXV.

CHAPTER XXV.

The expedition proceeds to strike the source of the great Crow-Wing River, by the Indian trail and line of interior portages, by way of Leech Lake, the seat of the warlike tribe of the Pillagers, or Mukundwa. Having, while at Sandy Lake, summoned the Indians to meet me in council at the mouth of the L'aile de Corbeau , or Crow-Wing River, on the 20th of July, no time was to be lost in proceeding to that place. The 15th, being the Sabbath, was spent at the island, where the Rev. Mr. Boutwell addr

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CHAPTER XXVI.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Geographical account of Leech Lake—History of its Indians, the Mukundwas—The expedition proceeds to the source of the Crow-Wing River, and descends that stream, in its whole length, to the Mississippi. Leech Lake is a large, deep, and very irregularly-shaped body of water. It cannot be less than twenty miles across its extreme points. I requested the chief to draw its outlines, furnishing a sheet of foolscap. He began by tracing a large ellipsis, and then projecting large points and bays, inward

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CHAPTER XXVII.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Complete the exploration of the Crow-Wing River of Minnesota—Indian council—Reach St. Anthony's Falls—Council with the Sioux—Ascent and exploration of the River St. Croix and Misakoda, or Broulé, of Lake Superior—Return of the party to St. Mary's Falls, Michigan. At Illigan Lake, large oaks and elms appear in the forest; its banks are handsomely elevated, and the whole country puts on the appearance of being well adapted to cultivation. We landed to obtain a shot at some deer, which stood tempti

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1. DEPARTMENTAL REPORTS.

1. DEPARTMENTAL REPORTS.

Hon. J. C. Calhoun , Secretary of War . Detroit , October 21, 1820. Sir: I had the honor to inform you some time since that I had reached this place by land from Chicago, and that the residue of the party were daily expected. They arrived soon after, without accident, and this long and arduous journey has been accomplished without the occurrence of any unfavorable incident. I shall submit to you, as soon as it can be prepared, a memoir respecting the Indians who occupy the country through which

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2. TOPOGRAPHY AND ASTRONOMY.

2. TOPOGRAPHY AND ASTRONOMY.

Topographical materials were collected by Capt. Douglass, U.S.A., for a map of the northwestern portions of the United States, embracing the complete circumnavigation of the great lake basins, and accurate delineations of the sources of the Mississippi, as low down as the influx of the River Wisconsin. Being provided with instruments from the Military Academy of West Point, astronomical observations were made at every practical point over the vast panorama traversed by the Expedition. A line of

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3. MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY.

3. MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY.

Report on the Copper Mines of Lake Superior. By Henry R. Schoolcraft . To the Hon. John C. Calhoun , Secretary of War . Vernon (Oneida County, N. Y.), November 6, 1820. Sir: I have now the honor to submit such observations as have occurred to me, during the recent expedition under GOV. Cass, in relation to the copper mines on Lake Superior; reserving, as the subject of a future communication, the facts I have collected on the mineralogy and geology of the country explored generally. The first st

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4. BOTANY.

4. BOTANY.

A descriptive list of the plants collected on the expedition, drawn up by Dr. John Torrey, has been published in the fourth volume of the American Journal of Science . References to this standard work may be conveniently made by botanists....

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5. ZOOLOGY.

5. ZOOLOGY.

No professed zoologist was attached to the expedition, the topic being left to such casual attention as members of it might find it convenient to bestow. Of the fauna of the region, it was not believed that there were any of the prominent species which were improperly classed in the Systema Naturæ of Linnæus. It was doubtless desirable to know something more particularly of the character and habitat of the American species of the reindeer ( C. sylvestris ) and hyena, or glutton. Perhaps somethin

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6. METEOROLOGY.

6. METEOROLOGY.

The influence of solar heat on the quantity of water which is discharged from the great table lands which give origin to the sources of the Mississippi was such, during the summer months of 1820, that, on reaching those altitudes in latitude but a few minutes north of 47°, on the 21st of July, it was found impracticable to proceed higher in tracing out its sources. Attention had been directed to the phenomena of temperatures, clouds, evaporations, and solar influences, from the opening of the ye

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7. INDIAN HIEROGLYPHICS, OR PICTURE WRITING, LANGUAGES, AND HISTORY.

7. INDIAN HIEROGLYPHICS, OR PICTURE WRITING, LANGUAGES, AND HISTORY.

Pictographic Mode of Communicating Ideas among the Northwestern Indians, observed during the Expedition to the Sources of the Mississippi in 1820, in a Letter to the Secretary of War. By Hon. Lewis Cass . Detroit , February 2, 1821. Sir: An incident occurred upon my recent tour to the Northwest, so rare in itself, and which so clearly shows the facility with which communications may be opened between savage nations, without the intervention of letters, that I have thought it not improper to comm

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INDIAN LANGUAGES

INDIAN LANGUAGES

Inquiry 1. Observations on the Ojibwai substantive. 1. The provision of the language for indicating gender—Its general and comprehensive character—The division of words into animate and inanimate classes. 2. Number—its recondite forms, arising from the terminal vowel in the word. 3. The grammatical forms which indicate possession, and enable the speaker to distinguish the objective person. Most of the researches which have been directed to the Indian languages, have resulted in elucidating the p

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2. NATURAL HISTORY.

2. NATURAL HISTORY.

1. Limits of the Range of the Cervus Sylvestris in the Northwestern parts of the United States. By Henry R. Schoolcraft . (Northwest Journal.) 2. Description of the Fringilia Vespertina, discovered by Mr. Schoolcraft in the Northwest. By William Cooper . (Annals of the New York Lyceum of Natural History.) 3. Conchology .— List of Shells collected by Mr. Schoolcraft, in the Western and Northwestern Territory. By William Cooper . HELIX. 1. Helix albolabris , Say . Near Lake Michigan. 2. Helix alte

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3. INDIAN TRIBES.

3. INDIAN TRIBES.

1. Official Report of an Expedition through Upper Michigan and Northern Wisconsin in 1831. Sault Ste. Marie , Sept. 21, 1831. Sir : In compliance with instructions to endeavor to terminate the hostilities between the Chippewas and Sioux, I proceeded into the Chippewa country with thirteen men in two canoes, having the necessary provisions and presents for the Indians, an interpreter, a physician to attend the sick, and a person in charge of the provisions and other public property. The commandin

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4. TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOGRAPHY.

4. TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOGRAPHY.

1. A Table of Geographical Positions on the Mississippi River at Low Water, observed in 1836. [275] By J. N. Nicollet . TABLE OF GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS— Continued Regions of the Sources of the Mississippi. Few portions of America can vie in scenic attractions with this interior sea. Its size alone gives it all the elements of grandeur; but these have been heightened by the mountain masses which nature has piled along its shores. In some places, these masses consist of vast walls, of coarse gray

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5. SCENERY.

5. SCENERY.

Few portions of America can vie in scenic attractions with this interior sea. Its size alone gives it all the elements of grandeur; but these have been heightened by the mountain masses which nature has piled along its shores. In some places, these masses consist of vast walls, of coarse gray, or drab-colored sandstone, placed horizontally, until they have attained many hundred feet in height above the water. The action of such an immense liquid area, forced against these crumbling walls by temp

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