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26 chapters
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
These early adventures in the Ozarks comprehend my first exploratory effort in the great area of the West. To traverse the plains and mountain elevations west of the Mississippi, which had once echoed the tramp of the squadrons of De Soto—to range over hills, and through rugged defiles, which he had once searched in the hope of finding mines of gold and silver rivalling those of Mexico and Peru; and this, too, coming as a climax to the panorama of a long, long journey from the East—constituted a
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INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
De Soto, in 1541, was the true discoverer of the Mississippi river, and the first person who crossed it, who has left a narrative of that fact; although it is evident that Cabaca de Vaca, the noted survivor of the ill-fated expedition of Narvaez in 1528, must, in his extraordinary pilgrimage between Florida and the eastern coasts of the gulf of California, have crossed this river, perhaps before him; but he has not distinctly mentioned it in his memoir. Narvaez himself was not the discoverer of
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
JUNCTION OF THE OHIO WITH THE MISSISSIPPI—DIFFICULTY OF ASCENDING THE LATTER WITH A BARGE—ITS TURBID AND RAPID CHARACTER—INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE—PHYSICAL IMPEDIMENTS TO ITS NAVIGATION—FALLING-IN BANKS—TIAWAPATI—ANIMALS—FLOATING TREES—RIVER AT NIGHT—NEEDLESS AND LAUGHABLE ALARM—CHARACTER OF THE SHORES—MEN GIVE OUT—REACH THE FIRST FAST LANDS—MINERAL PRODUCTS—CAPE GIRARDEAU—MOCCASIN SPRING—NON-POETIC GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES—GRAND TOWER—STRUGGLE TO PASS CAPE GARLIC. I reached the junction of the Ohio wit
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
PASS CAPE GARLIC—OBRAZO RIVER—CLIFFS—EMIGRANTS—CAPE ST. COMB—BOIS BRULE BOTTOM—PAROQUET—FORT CHARTRES—KASKASKIA—ST. GENEVIEVE—M. BRETON—THE MISSISSIPPI DEFICIENT IN FISH—ANTIQUITIES—GEOLOGY—STEAMER—HERCULANEUM—M. AUSTIN, ESQ., THE PIONEER TO TEXAS—JOURNEY ON FOOT TO ST. LOUIS—MISADVENTURES ON THE MARAMEC—ITS INDIAN NAME—CARONDELET—ST. LOUIS, ITS FINE SITE AND PROBABLE FUTURE IMPORTANCE—ST. LOUIS MOUNDS NOT ARTIFICIAL—DOWNWARD PRESSURE OF THE DILUVIAL DRIFT OF THE MISSISSIPPI. July 13th. We renew
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
RESOLVE TO PROCEED FURTHER WEST—NIGHT VOYAGE ON THE MISSISSIPPI IN A SKIFF—AN ADVENTURE—PROCEED ON FOOT WEST TO THE MISSOURI MINES—INCIDENTS BY THE WAY—MINERS' VILLAGE OF SHIBBOLETH—COMPELLED BY A STORM TO PASS THE NIGHT AT OLD MINES—REACH POTOSI—FAVORABLE RECEPTION BY THE MINING GENTRY—PASS SEVERAL MONTHS IN EXAMINING THE MINES—ORGANIZE AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE WESTWARD—ITS COMPOSITION—DISCOURAGEMENTS ON SETTING OUT—PROCEED, NOTWITHSTANDING—INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE VALLEY OF LEAVES. I wa
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
HORSES ELOPE—DESERTION OF OUR GUIDE—ENCAMP ON ONE OF THE SOURCES OF BLACK RIVER—HEAD-WATERS OF THE RIVER CURRENTS—ENTER A ROMANTIC SUB-VALLEY—SALTPETRE CAVES—DESCRIPTION OF ASHLEY'S CAVE—ENCAMPMENT THERE—ENTER AN ELEVATED SUMMIT—CALAMARCA, AN UNKNOWN STREAM—ENCOUNTER FOUR BEARS—NORTH FORK OF WHITE RIVER. Nov. 10th. While we laid on our pallets last night, the trampling of hoofs was frequently heard; but at length the practised ear of the hunter detected that these were the sounds of wild animals
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
DESCEND THE VALLEY—ITS DIFFICULTIES—HORSE ROLLS DOWN A PRECIPICE—PURITY OF THE WATER—ACCIDENT CAUSED THEREBY—ELKHORN SPRING—TOWER CREEK—HORSE PLUNGES OVER HIS DEPTH IN FORDING, AND DESTROYS WHATEVER IS DELIQUESCENT IN HIS PACK—ABSENCE OF ANTIQUITIES, OR EVIDENCES OF ANCIENT HABITATION—A REMARKABLE CAVERN—PINCHED FOR FOOD—OLD INDIAN LODGES—THE BEAVER—A DESERTED PIONEER'S CAMP—INCIDENT OF THE PUMPKIN. Nov. 19th. Daylight put us in motion. It was determined to follow the valley down in its involuti
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
ABANDON OUR CAMP AND HORSE IN SEARCH OF SETTLEMENTS—INCIDENTS OF THE FIRST DAY—HEAR A SHOT—CAMP IN AN OLD INDIAN LODGE—ACORNS FOR SUPPER—KILL A WOODPECKER—INCIDENTS OF THE SECOND DAY—STERILE RIDGES—WANT OF WATER—CAMP AT NIGHT IN A DEEP GORGE—INCIDENTS OF THE THIRD DAY—FIND A HORSE-PATH, AND PURSUE IT—DISCOVER A MAN ON HORSEBACK—REACH A HUNTER'S CABIN—INCIDENTS THERE—HE CONDUCTS US BACK TO OUR OLD CAMP—DESERTED THERE WITHOUT PROVISIONS—DEPLORABLE STATE—SHIFTS—TAKING OF A TURKEY. Nov. 27th. Action
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
PROCEED WEST—BOG OUR HORSE—CROSS THE KNIFE HILLS—REACH THE UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER—ABANDON THE HORSE AT A HUNTER'S, AND PROCEED WITH PACKS—OBJECTS OF PITY—SUGAR-LOAF PRAIRIE—CAMP UNDER A CLIFF—FORD THE UNICA TWICE—DESCEND INTO A CAVERN—REACH BEAVER RIVER, THE HIGHEST POINT OF OCCUPANCY BY A HUNTER POPULATION. Dec. 5th. The rain ceased during the night, and left us a clear atmosphere in the morning. At an early hour we completed the package of the horse, and, taking the reins, I led him to the brin
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
OBSTACLE PRODUCED BY THE FEAR OF OSAGE HOSTILITY—MEANS PURSUED TO OVERCOME IT—NATURAL MONUMENTS OF DENUDATION IN THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS—PURITY OF THE WATER—PEBBLES OF YELLOW JASPER—COMPLETE THE HUNTERS' CABINS—A JOB IN JEWELLERY—CONSTRUCT A BLOWPIPE FROM CANE—WHAT IS THOUGHT OF RELIGION. Dec. 13th. Holt and Fisher were the highest occupants of the White river valley. They had reached this spot about four months before, and had brought their effects partly on pack-horses, and partly in canoes. The
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
PROCEED INTO THE HUNTING-COUNTRY OF THE OSAGES—DILUVIAL HILLS AND PLAINS—BALD HILL—SWAN CREEK—OSAGE ENCAMPMENTS—FORM OF THE OSAGE LODGE—THE HABITS OF THE BEAVER—DISCOVER A REMARKABLE CAVERN IN THE LIMESTONE ROCK, HAVING NATURAL VASES OF PURE WATER—ITS GEOLOGICAL AND METALLIFEROUS CHARACTER—REACH THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARK RANGE, WHICH IS FOUND TO DISPLAY A BROAD REGION OF FERTILE SOIL, OVERLYING A MINERAL DEPOSIT. My stay, which I regarded in the light of a pilgrimage, at the hunters' cabins, was n
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
DEPART FROM THE CAVE—CHARACTER OF THE HUNTERS WHO GUIDED THE AUTHOR—INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE—A BEAUTIFUL AND FERTILE COUNTRY, ABOUNDING IN GAME—REACH THE EXTREME NORTH-WESTERN SOURCE OF WHITE RIVER—DISCOVERIES OF LEAD-ORE IN A PART OF ITS BED—ENCAMP AND INVESTIGATE ITS MINERALOGY—CHARACTER, VALUE, AND HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY—PROBABILITY OF ITS HAVING BEEN TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO IN 1541. It was the last day of the year 1818, when we reached the cave of Winoca, as described in the preceding chapter, on
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
SEVERE WINTER WEATHER ON THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARKS—FALSE ALARM OF INDIANS—DANGER OF MY FURNACE, ETC., BEING HEREAFTER TAKEN FOR ANTIQUITIES—PROCEED SOUTH—ANIMAL TRACKS IN THE SNOW—WINOCA OR SPIRIT VALLEY—HONEY AND THE HONEY-BEE—BUFFALO-BULL CREEK—ROBE OF SNOW—MEHAUSCA VALLEY—SUPERSTITIOUS EXPERIMENT OF THE HUNTERS—ARRIVE AT BEAVER CREEK. The indications of severe weather, noticed during the last day of December, and the beginning of January, were not deceptive; every day served to realize them. W
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
DESCEND WHITE RIVER IN A CANOE—ITS PURE WATER, CHARACTER, AND SCENERY—PLACES OF STOPPING—BEAR CREEK—SUGAR-LOAF PRAIRIE—BIG CREEK—A RIVER PEDLAR—POT SHOALS—MOUTH OF LITTLE NORTH FORK—DESCEND FORMIDABLE RAPIDS, CALLED THE BULL SHOALS—STRANDED ON ROCKS—A PATRIARCH PIONEER—MINERALOGY—ANTIQUE POTTERY AND BONES—SOME TRACE OF DE SOTO—A TRIP BY LAND—REACH THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH FORK. I determined to descend the river from the hunters' cabins at Beaver creek, being the highest location to which a p
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
DETENTION AT THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH FORK—NATURAL HISTORY OF THE VICINITY—GREAT BLOCKS OF QUARTZ—IMPOSING PRECIPICES OF THE CALICO ROCK—A CHARACTERISTIC OF AMERICAN SCENERY—CHEROKEE OCCUPANCY OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN THE WHITE AND ARKANSAS RIVERS—ITS EFFECTS ON THE PIONEERS—QUESTION OF THE FATE OF THE INDIAN RACES—IRON-ORE—DESCENT TO THE ARKANSAS FERRIES—LEAVE THE RIVER AT THIS POINT—REMARKS ON ITS CHARACTER AND PRODUCTIONS. The canoe had not yet arrived, nor was there any tidings of it the n
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
ANCIENT SPOT OF DE SOTO'S CROSSING WHITE RIVER IN 1542—LAMENESS PRODUCED BY A FORMER INJURY—INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER—DE SOTO'S ANCIENT MARCHES AND ADVENTURES ON THIS RIVER IN THE SEARCH AFTER GOLD—FOSSIL SALT—COPPER—THE ANCIENT RANGES OF THE BUFFALO. I determined to quit the river at this point, and, after a night's rest, made the necessary arrangements. There is almost a moral certainty that De Soto must have crossed the river above this place. The make of the land, and
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
PROCEED NORTH—INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE—A SEVERE TEMPEST OF RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM—CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY—THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO—A PRIMITIVE AND MINERAL REGION—ST. MICHAEL—MINE A LA MOTTE—WADE THROUGH WOLF CREEK—A DESERTED HOUSE—CROSS GRAND RIVER—RETURN TO POTOSI. I left my night's quarters before daylight was fairly developed. The sky was, indeed, heavily overcast, and it soon commenced raining. Expecting to find a house at no great distance, I kept on, the rain at the
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PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST.
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST.
TWO LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE HON. J. B. THOMAS, U. S. SENATE, WASHINGTON. I. Potosi , Missouri, Feb. 9th, 1819. Sir : I beg leave to address you on the subject of my recent expedition into the Ozark region. When I was at your house at Cahokia, I mentioned to you my design of making a tour into the interior of the Territory. I have just returned from the excursion. Two persons were associated with me in the enterprise; but one of them, our mutual friend, Mr. Brigham, was compelled by illness to r
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
When we reflect on the history of our own country—its advance in arts, commerce, and agriculture, and the rapidity with which its population has increased, and its resources been developed—the mind is with difficulty brought to believe that all this has taken place within a comparatively short period. These developments are particularly striking in the region west of the Alleghany mountains. A new world has, as it were, been discovered in the Mississippi valley, which, under the strong impulse o
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A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI.
A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI.
SECTION I. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE MINES. The rage for adventure, which the brilliant exploits of Cortez, Pizarro, and other Spanish adventurers, had excited throughout Europe, continued for a long time to agitate the public mind, and had not abated at the commencement of the eighteenth century, when an idea of the mineral riches of Louisiana had become prevalent. Gold and silver were then the chief objects which engrossed attention; and in search of them, the earliest discoverers were led to p
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MINERALOGY.
MINERALOGY.
A CATALOGUE OF THE MINERALS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. In the arrangement of this catalogue, the order introduced in Professor Cleveland's mineralogical tables, has been chiefly observed. It is the commencement of an investigation into the physical history, character, and mineral resources of the West, which it will become the duty of future observers to continue and perfect. The field is an extensive one, and invites attention. The order and beauty that are observed in this branch of natural hi
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CATALOGUE OF MINERALS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, (continued.)
CATALOGUE OF MINERALS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, (continued.)
October, 1819. 1. Sulphate of lime. Arkansas. 2. Sulphuret of lead, in quartz. Washington county, Mo. 3. Agate, from Persia. Brought by Captain Austin. 4. Serpentine. Derby, Conn. 5. Galena upon crystallized quartz. Missouri. 6. Limpid quartz. Hot Springs, Arkansas. 7. Striped agate. St. Genevieve county, Mo. 8. Sienite. Persia. 9. Silicious breccia. Illinois. 10. Sulphuret of lead. Shangum Mountain, Ulster county, N. Y. 11. Garnet, in micaceous
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MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WEST.
MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WEST.
A LETTER TO CHARLES G. HAINES, ESQ., SECRETARY OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE PROMOTION OF INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS AT NEW YORK. New York , October 5th, 1819. Sir : In reply to your communication of the 4th inst., I submit the subjoined remarks on the following questions:— I. "To what extent are the lead, and other mines, worked in our western country, either by the United States' government, or by individuals?" In the extensive region to which this inquiry has allusion, are found numerous ores, salts,
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GEOGRAPHY.
GEOGRAPHY.
MISSOURI. When Louisiana was admitted into the Union as an independent State, all that part of the territory situated north of 33° north latitude, and formerly known as Upper Louisiana, was erected into a separate territorial government, under the name of Missouri. This term is the name of a tribe of Indians who formerly dwelt near the Missouri river. The Territory also included those boundless plains and unexplored countries stretching from north to south, at the foot of the Rocky mountains, an
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ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY.
ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY.
SOME ARTICLES OF CURIOUS WORKMANSHIP FOUND IN AN ANCIENT BARROW. An opinion is entertained by many well-informed persons in the United States, that the country has, at some remote period, been inhabited by a civilized people, prior to its settlement or subjugation by the savages. To the many evidences furnished to strengthen this opinion, by the remnants of fortifications, tumuli, &c., may be added the discovery of several articles of antiquarian value, and of singular workmanship, of gl
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EXTRACTS FROM THE AMERICAN JOURNAL OF SCIENCE.
EXTRACTS FROM THE AMERICAN JOURNAL OF SCIENCE.
Notice of "A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri, including some Observations on the Mineralogy, Geology, Geography, Antiquities, Soil, Climate, Population, and Productions, of Missouri and Arkansas, and other sections of the Western Country; accompanied by three Engravings. By Henry R. Schoolcraft , Corresponding Member of the Lyceum of Natural History of New York." 1821. As this work has been more than a year before the American public, and is already well known, it may seem superfluous to make
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