Notes Of A Journey On The Upper Mekong, Siam
H. Warington Smyth
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9 chapters
NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE UPPER MEKONG, SIAM.
NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE UPPER MEKONG, SIAM.
                             PUBLISHED FOR                     THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY                                   BY               JOHN MURRAY, 50, ALBEMARLE STREET, LONDON.                                  1895. [Illustration: THE RAPIDS AT THE GATES OF CHIENG KONG, MEKONG RIVER.]...
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
I have put together the following account of a recent journey made for the Siamese Government to the Mekong valley, chiefly for the reason that at the present moment, when the French have "rectified" their boundaries on the north and east of Siam to the extent of some 85,000 square miles, more interest than usual will probably be felt in the character of the country and the people, of whom there are not too many reliable accounts to be found. At the same time, I feel very strongly that there are
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GLOSSARY.
GLOSSARY.
    Pak = mouth of a river; e.g. Pak Oo, mouth of river Oo.     Nam = river; e.g. Nam Oo, river Oo ( a always long, as in barn ).     Hoay = mountain torrent.     Keng = rapid; e.g. Keng Fapa, Fapa rapid.     Luang = great or chief; e.g. Keng Luang, the great rapid.     Doi or puh = Siam word Kao = hill.     Ban or Bang = house or village (used indiscriminately).     Sala = rest-house.     Muang = town or township, often district or province.     Chow Muang = literally, chief of the township = g
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NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE UPPER MEKONG, SIAM. PART I.
NOTES OF A JOURNEY ON THE UPPER MEKONG, SIAM. PART I.
Early in December, 1892, we left Bangkok—myself, three Siamese assistants, and a sergeant's guard as escort, and coolies. At Muang Chainat, owing to the rapid fall of the river, I had to send back the Navy launch, which was drawing 3 feet 6 inches; a month earlier she might have got nearly up to M.[1] Pechai. At Paknam Pho, where the Nam Pho and Meiping meet, after a good deal of bargaining I secured a rua nua , or north-land boat, to take me on. Boat-travelling in Siam is much the same everywhe
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MUANG NAN TO MUANG CHIENG KONG.
MUANG NAN TO MUANG CHIENG KONG.
From Muang Nan my orders were to find the best route I could over the watershed to M. Chieng Kong in the Mekong valley. As usual, the information obtainable was very meagre. One trail goes west from Nan till the valley of the Nam Ing is reached, when that stream is followed down north; a second follows the Nam Nan northward, and crosses the range north-north-westerly up the stream flowing down from M. Yao; the third, which I selected, as showing one more of the Nam Nan valley, follows that river
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PART III.
PART III.
Muang Chieng Kong became our head-quarters for ten days, and from there I made a boat expedition to the Chieng Sen boundary, north-west; and also one north and east inland, the object being the examination of the gem deposit, its extent, character, and, if possible, its value. From the Chieng Sen boundary at Hoay Nam Kung, extending for some miles towards Chieng Kong, is a rapid piece of river tearing through a series of gneissose and schistose rocks, which form high hills on either bank. The ge
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PART IV.
PART IV.
Luang Prabang (March, 1893). Making expeditions in various directions, Luang Prabang was our head-quarters for about three weeks. Of all the country round, the town itself seems to be the hottest place, and to be away in the jungle was infinitely preferable to staying in the bungalow, where at sunset the thermometer was generally still at 92°. Unlike Nan, Chieng Mai, or Korat, there is no wall around the town, which is the usual collection of substantial teak houses, and large roomy monasteries,
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PART V.
PART V.
NONGKHAI TO KHORAT AND BANGKOK ( April and May , 1893). From Nongkhai we left in regular rainy weather for Khorat, with 14 "kiens" or ox-carts, there being two oxen and a driver to each. Twelve of these are about equal in carrying capacity to sixteen elephants as loaded for hilly country—two extra we had for sick men, of whom we still had two unable to walk; and these two, moreover, were the best protected with charms of all the men with us. These charms were small wooden prahs , very roughly cu
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APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
At the Meeting of the Royal Geographical Society on February 24, 1894, an account of Mr. Warington Smyth's journey by the President, Mr. Clements R. Markham, C.B., was read by Mr. Probyn. Before the reading of the paper, the President said— The paper we are to hear this evening is on exploration on the Upper Mekong, in Siam, by Mr. Herbert Warington Smyth, who is serving under the Siamese Government. Siam is from many points of view a most interesting country, more particularly for us at the pre
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