Island Trail At Walnut Canyon
Southwestern Monuments Association
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32 chapters
Island Trail at WALNUT CANYON
Island Trail at WALNUT CANYON
PRICE 10 CENTS IF YOU TAKE THIS BOOKLET HOME or you may use it free of charge, returning it to the register stand when you leave.... WALNUT CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT 11 MILES EAST OF FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA. Birdseye view of the “Island” Trail at Walnut Canyon National Monument The National Park System, of which Walnut Canyon National Monument is a unit, is dedicated to the conservation of America’s scenic, scientific, and historic heritage for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. NATIONAL PARK SE
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STAKE NO. 1.
STAKE NO. 1.
General view of canyon. From this point you will observe that the canyon makes a large “horse shoe” bend leaving an “Island” connected to this side by the narrow neck of land we call the “Saddle.” It is in this small section of the canyon that there is the heaviest concentration of prehistoric cliff-dwellings. From here you are able to discern the distinctly different types of vegetation growing on opposite sides of the canyon. On the north side (or southern exposure) we see many of the desert t
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STAKE NO. 2.
STAKE NO. 2.
Looking down canyon (to your left) is a graphic view of the geological formations exposed in Walnut Canyon. On the next page of this guide leaflet are sketches showing “How the Canyon was Formed.” No. 1. Millions of years ago this area was a vast flood plain near sea level. Shifting sands were formed into dunes by wind causing cross bedding or lamination. It is these sands that form the Toroweap Formation which is the oldest exposed in the canyon and is the whorled and cross-bedded sandstone whi
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STAKE NO. 3.
STAKE NO. 3.
Although not the best preserved of the ruins you will visit, this once was an extensive string of rooms. By tree ring dating we have been able to establish dates of occupancy—the earliest for these masonry dwellings being 1120 A.D. They were abandoned between 1200 and 1300 A.D. Near the center of the room is what remains of an ancient fireplace—almost obliterated—so please do not walk on it. From here numerous rooms may be seen on this side of the canyon and directly across....
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STAKE NO. 4.
STAKE NO. 4.
Ponderosa or western yellow pine (also known by 22 other common names) ( Pinus ponderosa ). The leaves or needles occur in groups of three and are 5 to 11 inches in length. These trees reach an age of from 350 to 500 years and are considered the most important lumber tree in the Rocky Mountain region. Pueblo Indians of today invariably use Ponderosa for their kiva ladders. Hopi Indians attach the needles to prayer plumes to bring cold. The needles are also smoked ceremonially. How the Canyon Was
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STAKE NO. 5.
STAKE NO. 5.
Douglas Fir ( Pseudotsuga taxifolia ). This tree requires more moisture than is found on the south slopes of the canyon. The wood is harder, stronger, and more durable than Pine. Douglas Firs are the conspicuous trees on the slopes facing north, while Pinyon and Juniper are dominant on those facing south. The boughs of this tree are used by many Pueblo Indians today in their ceremonies and dances, particularly by the Hopi who travel long distances to collect the branches for their “Kachina” danc
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STAKE NO. 6.
STAKE NO. 6.
This fine overhanging ledge furnished what appears to be an ideal house site, although apparently it was never used as such. Perhaps the women would gather here in the shade on hot days to chat and grind their corn or make pottery. Undoubtedly, Indian children have played in its cool protection. The ledges of this type were used by prehistoric Indians because they afforded good watertight roofs for their homes which could be completed by construction of walls only in front and on the sides. The
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STAKE NO. 7.
STAKE NO. 7.
Elderberry ( Sambucus corulea neomexicana ). The blueblack berries of this plant are eagerly consumed as food by birds and small animals. Berries are put to present-day use in making jams, jellies and pie....
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STAKE NO. 8.
STAKE NO. 8.
This site once contained five rooms, of which only a few walls are left. You will notice that the vegetation here is different. You are on the northwest side of the “Island,” which receives little sun, is colder, and has vegetation found in the great forests of the northern United States. Woman Plastering...
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STAKE NO. 9.
STAKE NO. 9.
These are the best preserved ruins on the trail. Some restoration has been done around the doorways, using a dark mud to distinguish it from the original. The black soot deposit on the ceilings is the result of using pitch Pine for fuel. If you look closely at the inside walls of this room you will see the handprints of the women who plastered it—prints placed here long before America was discovered. Since so many people wish to see them, we ask that you do not touch the wall; otherwise in a few
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STAKE NO. 10.
STAKE NO. 10.
Yucca ( Yucca baccata ). Also known as “Soapweed” or “Spanish Bayonet.” This plant was most important in the economy of the early cliff dwellers. It furnished all of the necessities of life, namely food, shelter, and clothing. The Yucca is pollinated by a small moth whose larvæ feed on the seeds. The Indians prized the fruit, buds, flowers, and stalks for food. Its fiber was used for baskets, mats, cloth, rope and sandals. Leaves were sometimes laid across rafters or vigas in buildings and cover
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STAKE NO. 11.
STAKE NO. 11.
In the construction of houses it is believed that women did much work, certainly the plastering, and possibly the laying of stones in mortar. Men must have helped with the heavier “hod-carrying,” timber-lifting, etc. Women also took care of household duties, made the pottery, and helped with the farming. The men did the hunting, weaving, and farming, and took care of the religious ceremonies and duties. As with their descendants, the historic and present day Pueblo Indians, they were probably ma
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STAKE NO. 12.
STAKE NO. 12.
Mormon Tea or Torrey Ephedra ( Ephedra torreyana ). This shrub with its green stems is able to withstand great drought. A pleasant, bitter tea may be brewed with the leaves, which contain tannin. Mormon Tea plant is used medicinally by practically all southwestern Indians....
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STAKE NO. 13.
STAKE NO. 13.
Little remains of these rooms but piles of rubble. Most of the damage was done by vandals. Portions of only two walls are standing, but directly across the canyon from this point you will see a dwelling in an excellent state of preservation. Originally the walls were covered with plaster so that none of the masonry was visible. Apparently the balanced rock on the rim above this room did not frighten the Indian builders. Rooms built on two separate levels of the cave to the left of this site gave
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STAKE NO. 14.
STAKE NO. 14.
Juniper ( Juniperus scopulorum ). Sometimes erroneously called Cedar. Bark was used to pad cradles, make sandals and pot rests. Digging sticks and rakes for farming were also commonly made from this wood. For the Hopi Indians (among whom the nearest direct descendants of these people will be found) this plant has many interesting medicinal and ceremonial uses. The berries are also used as medicine and are eaten sparingly by almost all kinds of wildlife. The wood is good for fuel. THE TRAIL LEADS
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STAKE NO. 15.
STAKE NO. 15.
Fremont Barberry or Hollygrape ( Berberis fremonti ). This plant is valued by the Hopi for tools of various kinds. Its wood is very strong and makes excellent arrow shafts, Spindles and battens. It is yellow in color and it makes a dye. Medicinally it is utilized for healing gums. It is also good winter browse for deer....
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STAKE NO. 16.
STAKE NO. 16.
Arizona Walnut ( Juglans major ). The species after which the Monument was named. The small, thick shelled nuts are eaten by Indians of New Mexico and probably Arizona. A fairly rare tree in the Southwest. This tree is directly below you and identified by the SILVER TAG tied to the branch. Mountain Mahogany...
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STAKE NO. 17.
STAKE NO. 17.
Mountain Mahogany ( Cercocarpus eximus ). The wood of this plant was utilized for various implements such as combs and battens for weaving. Its dry wood makes a very hot fire with little smoke. A decoction of the roots of this plant when mixed with Juniper ashes and powdered bark of Alder makes a red dye commonly used for dyeing leather; for example, moccasin uppers. Looking Up at Museum from Stake No. 18 Don’t Be a Litterbug!...
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STAKE NO. 18.
STAKE NO. 18.
You are now about to begin your ascent back to the museum and your car. We suggest that you rest awhile and enjoy the scenery. Take it easy and stop for an occasional rest. From this point you can see the museum and judge the amount of effort you will have to expend. We sincerely hope that you have enjoyed your visit and hope that you will COME AGAIN—SOON....
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GENERAL
GENERAL
Walnut Canyon National Monument takes its name from the Black Walnut trees found at the bottom of the canyon. It is unusual to find them at an elevation of nearly 6,700 feet. The National Monument was established by proclamation of President Woodrow Wilson on November 30, 1915, to protect the ancient cliff dwellings of a vanished people. These remains are of great educational, ethnological, and other scientific interest and it is the purpose of the National Park Service to preserve them as near
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WHY THE INDIANS LIVED IN WALNUT CANYON
WHY THE INDIANS LIVED IN WALNUT CANYON
It is believed that a permanent stream was found in Walnut Canyon when the Indians built their homes. Walnut Canyon is about 400 feet deep and the Indians lived about half way down the side. This required a lot of arduous climbing whenever they went for water, to gather fire wood, to cultivate the fields, or to meet any of their daily needs. It appears that the Indians’ choice of a homesite in the canyon was guided mainly by where they found natural caves, which might explain why the Indians sel
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CLIFF DWELLERS AS FARMERS
CLIFF DWELLERS AS FARMERS
Soil near the canyon’s rim is too shallow and rocky to produce good crops, but by traveling two or three miles to the north, land could be found where the soil is deep enough to retain moisture. Here seeds could be planted with a sharpened stick and tended with a stone hoe. No doubt the cliff dwellers had summer camps near these fields where dark-eyed watchers maintained constant vigil to keep away birds and squirrels seeking to dig up the seeds, and later, the deer, rabbits and other animals th
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THE CLIFF DWELLERS AS GATHERERS
THE CLIFF DWELLERS AS GATHERERS
Wild fruits which could be gathered by the cliff dwellers include Grapes and Elderberries, both of which are found in the canyon. There is also a Wild Potato sometimes found in the canyon bottom. The tubers are small, seldom as large as small cherries. Perhaps these were eaten with a seasoning of clay, as is the Hopi custom of today. These Indians are known to eat a salty clay with the Wild Potato and the berries of Lycium. This particular clay counteracts the acid which would otherwise make the
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THE CLIFF DWELLERS AS HUNTERS
THE CLIFF DWELLERS AS HUNTERS
Among the trash left by these ancient people, archeologists find bones from Deer, Antelope, Turkey, Rabbits, and various waterfowl. Present day visitors are often delighted to see Deer or Antelope along the approach roads to Walnut Canyon and occasionally Turkeys are seen. These are native Wild Turkeys, which in some parts of Arizona are found in sufficient numbers to permit a limited hunting season. Animals considered good food by living Indians include Coyote, Wolf, Fox, Dog, Wild Cat, Porcupi
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CONSTRUCTION OF A HOME
CONSTRUCTION OF A HOME
Once the Indian family had selected a cave, they did very little to enlarge it. Most of the cliff cavities are rather shallow and extend back into the cliff no more than 10 to 12 feet. The cliff dwellers closed these cavities with masonry walls and partitioned off the rooms. Walls were constructed from rough chunks of limestone gathered wherever found. Apparently there were no quarries. The stones were laid up to form a double wall with the straight faces turned to the outside and the center fil
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COOKING
COOKING
Firepits were found in most of the dwellings. These were usually directly in front of the door 4 or 5 feet inside the room. Smoke vents were placed above the door at the top of the wall against the cave roof. Not all the smoke found its way out, as can be seen where the walls and roofs of many rooms are still heavily smoke-blackened. However, there seems to have been a definite attempt to develop circulation of air by adjusting the size of the smoke vent and the door opening. Fires were kindled
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WHO WERE THE CLIFF DWELLERS?
WHO WERE THE CLIFF DWELLERS?
Pueblo Indians are distinguished in the Southwest by a combination of three culture traits. These are the construction of communal houses, the practice of agriculture, and the making of pottery. All these traits were exhibited by the cliff dwellers in Walnut Canyon. Archeologists designate them as the Sinagua (sih-NAH-wah), and place them into the broad classification of the Pueblo III period which marked the zenith of the prehistoric Pueblo culture. There are no kivas in Walnut Canyon. The maso
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WHY DID THE CLIFF DWELLERS LEAVE?
WHY DID THE CLIFF DWELLERS LEAVE?
Several forces which may have worked singly or in combination to displace the cliff dwellers were drouth, enemy raids, and insanitary conditions. One of the most probable causes of abandonment was drouth. The Sinagua may have found it necessary to augment their water supply by making earthen dams along the lower side of natural pools (particularly farther down the canyon where it broadens). With only a slight decline in annual precipitation the stream would fail entirely in early summer and disr
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ARTS, CRAFTS, AND ORNAMENTS
ARTS, CRAFTS, AND ORNAMENTS
In addition to pottery making, the Indians did some weaving and basket making. They were acquainted with cotton textiles, and since cotton would not mature at this elevation, they must have traded for raw cotton or the finished products. We do not know the full details of what style clothes these people wore, but we are sure they liked shell beads, pendants, armlets, paint of several colors, and jet buttons. Turquoise was possessed by some. The nearest known sources are several miles distant, wh
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FLORA AND FAUNA
FLORA AND FAUNA
Walnut Canyon National Monument is at the junction of the Pine with the Pinyon and Juniper belt. Ponderosa Pine trees grow on both sides of the canyon and have golden brown bark. The shorter trees are Pinyon and Juniper, four species of which are known to occur on the Monument. There are scattered clumps of Gambel Oak, and several perennial shrubs of smaller size. One hundred and sixty plant species have been collected, identified, and filed in the herbarium. Several varieties of Penstemon are s
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APPROACHES AND FACILITIES
APPROACHES AND FACILITIES
Walnut Canyon is located on a dirt road which forms a loop off Highway 66. From the east the entrance gate is about 4 miles from the paved road, and from the west about 7. There are no overnight accommodations or camp ground on the Monument, but there is a picnic area. Flagstaff, Arizona, where meals and lodging may be had, is 12 miles from the Monument. A superintendent and a ranger are in residence on the Monument, and it is open the year around. However, the season of most desirable weather e
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PLEASE NOTICE
PLEASE NOTICE
Many persons visit here each day. If each will preserve the wild flowers, and protect the ruins from defacement, Walnut Canyon will remain a lovely place for future visitors to enjoy. For this reason it is also asked that picnickers leave a dead fire and a clean camp in the designated picnic area. Because the wild animals—Birds, Squirrels, Foxes, Turkeys, etc.—become tame and trusting in this, their protected refuge, domestic pets should not be allowed to harm them, and must be kept on leash or
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