The Japan Expedition. Japan And Around The World
J. W. (J. Willett) Spalding
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27 chapters
JAPAN AND AROUND THE WORLD
JAPAN AND AROUND THE WORLD
AN ACCOUNT OF THREE VISITS TO THE JAPANESE EMPIRE WITH SKETCHES OF MADEIRA, ST. HELENA, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, MAURITIUS, CEYLON, SINGAPORE, CHINA, AND LOO-CHOO By J. W. SPALDING OF THE U. S. STEAM-FRIGATE MISSISSIPPI, FLAG SHIP OF THE EXPEDITION WITH EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS IN TINT REDFIELD 34 BEEKMAN STREET, NEW YORK 1855. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, By J. S. REDFIELD, in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for the Southern District of New
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The kindness and courtesy of that fine officer and estimable gentleman, Commander Sydney Smith Lee, in conferring upon the writer a position on the ship under his command, gave him the opportunity of seeing the “wonders of the world abroad,” in the Japan Expedition. The following pages do not profess to be a history of Japan, of which there are already a number extant, but only embody observations of what came under notice, in a cruise of nearly two and a half years. They do not pretend to invar
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
The cruel treatment which had long been practised by that singular and secluded people, the Japanese, toward American whalers who were thrown by the misfortune of shipwreck upon their coasts, the incentive of mercantile cupidity, and the urgency of personal ambition, induced the government of the United States, in 1852, to project an expedition to Japan, to obtain some assurance from the government of the country against a continuance or repetition of the inhospitality and cruelty inflicted upon
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
On the afternoon of the 15th of December, all hands being on board, with coal dust, and wine for distinguished functionaries in the U. S. on our decks, an orange and banana smell over the ship, and six little Madeira bullocks, who, upon being hoisted in by the horns, no sooner reached the decks, than they indulged in a series of cavortings, to the no small amusement of the old shell-back denizens of the forecastle, we lifted anchor, and steamed away from Funchal, to the south. At nightfall Madei
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
We reached Cape Town after a run of thirteen days. On the morning of the 24th of January we made the long, low sandhills in the vicinity of Saldanha bay, South Africa, and continuing our run in sight of the coast during the day, anchored after nightfall, with bright moonlight around, in Table bay. We encountered the whole way a strong head wind and sea, and at one time doubted whether our coal would be sufficient to enable us to reach our port. The men were exercised at target practice, with pis
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
About 11 o’clock on our fifteenth morning out from the Cape of Good Hope, the southwestern end of the island of Mauritius was visible from the masthead, and we put on all our furnaces so as to reach Port Louis before night. On approaching the land we ran for two hours, past highly-tilled fields encompassing the cosy houses of the planters, sloping to the water’s edge in living green. As we neared the small crescent on which is built the little town of Port Louis, we were boarded by two English h
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
About nine o’clock of the night of the 10th of March, the lookout in the top sang out, “Light, ho!” which we knew must be on the island of Ceylon. The entrance to the harbor of Point de Galle, being quite narrow, we endeavored to get such soundings as would enable us to come to anchor until daybreak, but not succeeding in this, the ship’s head was put off shore, and we lay-to for the night. That most ancient and quasi-veracious traveller, Sir John Mandeville, who had great injustice wrought him
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
We anchored in Macao roads about mid-day, perhaps on the very spot, where a sailor’s malice fired a magazine, and blew high in air, with a noise like thunder, the atoms that composed the Portuguese frigate Donna Maria , some years before. Macao, though in, is not of China; instead of the low hut-like structures of unburnt blue brick and fantastic tile of the Celestial, the eye, as it takes in the fine sweep of the Praya, rests on large mansions whose verandahs exclude the sun, whose portals are
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
The island of Great Loo-Choo appeared in sight after a run of three days from China. Previous to reaching there, the commodore issued a general order, requiring look-outs to be kept in port as at sea, during the stay of the squadron among the Japanese islands, and all movements of vessels or collections of boats were to be reported to the officer of the deck, and by him to his superiors; sentinels with loaded musket and six rounds of ball-cartridges; general and division exercises of great guns
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
When day broke on the morning of the 8th July we got our first sight of the “ terra incognita ”—the hermetic land—the land which had been invaded but never conquered—hence called the “virgin empire.” The high, bold shores of Japan were before us—the “kingdom of the origin of the sun.” Japan has been continually spoken of as the unknown land. It is difficult to see with what correctness this designation should have been given it, unless those countries only are known upon which the physical eye o
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Before reaching the bay of Yedo, sounding-spars had been rigged out from the end of the bowsprit of each steamer, from which depended sounding-leads, that were kept constantly going as well as the leadsmen in the “chains.” As previous knowledge of the water was rather defective, the ships proceeded in with caution. The sweep of the bay is a noble one, as you approach, and the morning being a clear and lovely one, every object, from the strange-looking crafts coming continually in sight, to the s
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
The numerous publications upon China, from the large folios of the Jesuits, which record their triangulation of the empire over a century ago, down to the later books, which afford every detail of the strange people occupying the “flowery kingdom,” render an account, of what came under observation, during the time the Mississippi, lay in the waters of China, almost superfluous. Yet during our stay, the state of the Celestials was rather anomalous; owing to the efforts of a portion of the immense
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Six months precisely from the day of the first landing of the Americans in Japan, the mail having arrived from Suez, and the other vessels of the squadron having left in advance, we prepared to follow. On the morning of the 14th of January, the black smoke rolling away from their funnels, announced steam being gotten up on three as large war-steamers as were to be seen in any waters—the Powhatan, the Susquehanna, and the old Mississippi steam-frigates. Considering their size, it was a sight that
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Simoda—in Japanese “Lowerfield”—situated in the principality of Idzoo, which occupies about the same latitudinal, though not isothermal lines—as our state of North Carolina, is a place containing a population of twenty thousand. The streets are narrow, though regularly laid out, and at their intersections have gates, which may be easily closed in the event of any emeute . At their points are also placed stone structures, surmounted by little roofs protecting copies of the laws and municipal regu
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
On the 13th of May, the fifty days after the signing of the treaty having nearly expired, the Powhatan and Mississippi started for Hakodadi, leaving the storeship Supply at anchor at Simoda. Instead of keeping in shore, the two steamers stood off and ran between Oho Sima and Ja Sima . The day being clear, Foogee from his aerial height was soon looking at us. We ran quite close to the southwestern side, and had a good view of Oho Sima. The whole island appears to have been upheaved by volcanic ac
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
After a monotonous run of four days, Foogee , like a colossal cenotaph to dead beauty, showed far up before us, and in three hours we were again at anchor in Simoda harbor. We learned, that the commissioners of the treaty were there awaiting the return of the commodore; that Simoda by imperial edict had been declared an imperial city; that Mimasaka-no-kami, prince of Mimasaka, had been appointed first, and Tsusuki Suruga-no-kami, prince of Suruga, had been appointed second governor of the place;
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Letters: considering the rapid occurrence of events of moment now-a-days, and the lightning transmission of intelligence, it was with joy we got letters on our arrival at Hong Kong, having been for over half a year, so far as news was concerned, inhumed in a remote country. The official news was, that we were ordered home by way of California and South America, at which all were overjoyed; and the commodore was granted permission to return to the United States via Europe, at government expense.
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SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAPA, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO. By Lieutenant S. Bent, U. S. Navy.
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR NAPA, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO. By Lieutenant S. Bent, U. S. Navy.
This is the principal seaport of the island, and perhaps the only one possessing the privileges of a port of entry. Its inner, or Junk harbor, has a depth of water of from two to three fathoms, and though small, is sufficiently large to accommodate with ease, the fifteen or twenty moderate-sized junks which are usually found moored in it. These are mostly Japanese, with a few Chinese and some small coasting craft, which seem to carry on a sluggish trade with the neighboring islands. The outer ha
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OONTING, OR PORT MELLVILLE, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO. By Lieutenant S. Bent, U. S. Navy.
OONTING, OR PORT MELLVILLE, ISLAND GREAT LOO-CHOO. By Lieutenant S. Bent, U. S. Navy.
Oonting harbor is on the N. W. side of Loo-Choo, and distant about thirty-five miles from Napa. Sugar Loaf island, an excellent landmark, lies about twelve miles to the W. N. W’d of the entrance. The island is low and flat, with the exception of a sharp conical peak near its eastern extremity, which rises to a height of several hundred feet. Passing to the northward of Sugar Loaf island, an E. S. easterly course will bring you to the mouth of the harbor, and to the northward and westward of Kooi
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SAILING DIRECTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, UPON LLOYD HARBOR, BONIN ISLANDS. From Reports of Acting Masters Madigan and Bennett, of the U. S. Ships Saratoga and Susquehanna.
SAILING DIRECTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, UPON LLOYD HARBOR, BONIN ISLANDS. From Reports of Acting Masters Madigan and Bennett, of the U. S. Ships Saratoga and Susquehanna.
The entrance to the harbor of Port Lloyd, on the western side of Peel island, one of the Bonin group, is well defined; so that it can scarcely be mistaken. A ship bound in, would do well to place a boat on the shoal, that makes off south from the eastern point of Square Rock, as it is called on Beechy’s harbor chart. This shoal can be easily seen from aloft, however, even when there is no swell on. It extends full two cables length from Square Rock to the southward, and is steep. The centre of t
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SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR OF SIMODA. By Lieutenant Wm. L. Maury, U. S. Navy.
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR OF SIMODA. By Lieutenant Wm. L. Maury, U. S. Navy.
U. S. Steam-Frigate Mississippi , Honolulu , October 26, 1854. Vessels bound to the harbor of Simoda, to the southward and westward, should make Cape Idzu, from which Rock island bears E. S. E. ¼  E., distant about five miles; and if the weather is at all clear, the chain of islands at the entrance of the gulf of Yedo will at the same time be plainly visible. Between Rock island and the main land, there are a number of rocks awash and above water, among which the Japanese junks freely pass, but
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SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR YEDO. By Lieut. Wm. L. Maury, U. S. N.
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR YEDO. By Lieut. Wm. L. Maury, U. S. N.
Vessels from the southward, bound to this bay, should pass up to the westward of the chain of islands lying off the gulf of Yedo, and are cautioned against mistaking the deep bight of Kawatsu bay for the entrance of Uraga channel, for on the northeast side of this bay there is a ledge of rocks several miles from the shore, bearing from Cape Sagami about W. N. W., distant ten miles, upon which one of the vessels of our squadron grounded. A stranger without a correct chart would naturally make thi
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SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE PORT OF HAKODADI. By Lieutenant Wm. L. Maury, U. S. N.
SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE PORT OF HAKODADI. By Lieutenant Wm. L. Maury, U. S. N.
United States Steam-Frigate Mississippi , At Sea , July 20, 1854 . This splendid and beautiful bay, which for accessibility and safety is one of the finest in the world, lies on the north side of the straits of Sangar, which separate the Japanese islands of Nippon and Yeso, and about midway between Cape SirijaSaki 5 (the N. E. point of Nippon), and the city of Matsmai. It bears from the cape N. W. ½  W., distant about 45 miles, and is about 4 miles wide at the entrance, and 5 miles deep. The har
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THE CURRENCY QUESTION.
THE CURRENCY QUESTION.
[In the text is given an account of the negotiations relative to the comparative value of the American and Japanese coin. It is thought as well to give the report of the pursers appointed to arrange the question, which will be found below.] United States Steam-Frigate Powhatan , Simoda , June 15, 1854 . Sir : The committee appointed by you, in your letter of the 12th instant, to confer with a committee from the Japanese commissioners in reference to the rate of exchange and currency between the
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TABLE OF JAPANESE DISTANCES.
TABLE OF JAPANESE DISTANCES.
A Meter is about 39⅓ inches. Japanese Measurement of the Heights of Foogee Yama. THE END....
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POETRY AND THE DRAMA.
POETRY AND THE DRAMA.
The Works of Shakespeare, reprinted from the newly-discovered copy of the Folio of 1632, in the possession of J. Payne Collier , with numerous Illustrations. One vol. Imperial 8vo. Cloth, $4; sheep, $4 25; half morocco, plain, $5 00; marble edges, $5 50; half calf, or morocco extra, $6 00; full morocco, antique, $7 00. Same as above, cheap edition, cloth, $3 00; sheep, $3 50; imitation morocco, full gilt, $4 00. The Works of Shakespeare, same as above. Uniform in size with the celebrated Chiswic
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HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY.
Ancient Egypt under the Pharaohs. By John Kenrick , M. A. In 2 vols., 12mo. Price $2 50. Newman’s Regal Rome. An Introduction to Roman History. By Francis W. Newman , Professor of Latin in the University College, London. 12mo, cloth. Price 63 cents . The Catacombs of Rome, as Illustrating the Church of the First Three Centuries. By the Right Rev. W. Ingraham Kip , D.D., Missionary Bishop of California. Author of “Christmas Holidays in Rome,” “Early Conflicts of Christianity,” &c., &a
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