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17 chapters
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Abridged
CONTENTS CHAPTER I.— INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE. CHAPTER II. — ZANZIBAR. CHAPTER III. — ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. CHAPTER IV. — LIFE AT BAGAMOYO. CHAPTER V. — THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA. CHAPTER VI. — TO UGOGO. CHAPTER VII. — MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE. CHAPTER VIII. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR. CHAPTER IX. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued). CHAP
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CHAPTER I.— INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE.
CHAPTER I.— INTRODUCTORY. MY INSTRUCTIONS TO FIND AND RELIEVE LIVINGSTONE.
On the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I was in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Valencia. At 10 A.M. Jacopo, at No.— Calle de la Cruz, handed me a telegram: It read, "Come to Paris on important business." The telegram was from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the 'New York Herald.' Down came my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second floor; into my trunks went my books and souvenirs, my clothes were
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CHAPTER II. — ZANZIBAR.
CHAPTER II. — ZANZIBAR.
On the morning of the 6th January, 1871, we were sailing through the channel that separates the fruitful island of Zanzibar from Africa. The high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out of its shroud of foggy folds bit by bit as the day advanced, until it finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems of creation. It appeared low, but not flat; there were gentle eleva
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CHAPTER III. — ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
CHAPTER III. — ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
I was totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult at first to know, what I needed, in order to take an Expedition into Central Africa. Time was precious, also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry and investigation. In a case like this, it would have been a godsend, I thought, had either of the three gentlemen, Captains Burton, Speke, or Grant, given some information on these points; had they devoted a chapter upon, "How to get ready an Expedition for Central Africa." The pu
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CHAPTER IV. — LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
CHAPTER IV. — LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
The isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut, mango, clove, and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of Chumbi and French, with its whitewashed city and jack-fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that tread the deep, faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure to that which had just receded till it was a mere sinuous line above the horizon, looming in a northerly direction to the sublimity of a mountain chain. The distance across fr
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CHAPTER V. — THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
CHAPTER V. — THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days after my arrival at Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by myself, left the town of Bagamoyo for our first journey westward, with "Forward!" for its mot du guet. As the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put himself at the head of the caravan, and the pagazis, animals, soldiers, and idlers were lined for the march, we bade a long farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, to the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the hundred
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CHAPTER VI. — TO UGOGO.
CHAPTER VI. — TO UGOGO.
The distance from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni we found to be 119 miles, and was accomplished in fourteen marches. But these marches, owing to difficulties arising from the Masika season, and more especially to the lagging of the fourth caravan under Maganga, extended to twenty-nine days, thus rendering our progress very slow indeed—but a little more than four miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the travelling, that had I not been encumbered by the sick Wanyamwezi porters, I could have acc
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CHAPTER VII. — MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
CHAPTER VII. — MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, AND UYANZI, TO UNYANYEMBE.
The 22nd of May saw Thani and Hamed's caravans united with my own at Chunyo, three and a half hours' march from Mpwapwa. The road from the latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa range; at three or four places it crossed outlying spurs that stood isolated from the main body of the range. The last of these hill spurs, joined by an elevated cross ridge to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo, situated on the western face, from the stormy gusts that come roaring down the steep slopes.
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CHAPTER VIII. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
CHAPTER VIII. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES DURING MY RESIDENCE IN UNYAS NYEMBE. I BECOME ENGAGED IN A WAR.
I received a noiseless ovation as I walked side by side with the governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards his tembe in Kwikuru, or the capital. The Wanyamwezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of Mkasiwa, the sultan, hovered around their chief, the children were seen between the legs of their parents, even infants, a few months old, slung over their mothers' backs, all paid the tribute due to my colour, with one grand concentrated stare. The only persons who talked with me were the Arabs, and
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CHAPTER IX. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
CHAPTER IX. — MY LIFE AND TROUBLES IN UNYANYEMBE-(continued).
It never occurred to the Arab magnates that I had cause of complaint against them, or that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct, for the base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to friendship, taken up arms for their sake. Their "salaams" the next morning after the retreat, were given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good feeling that had existed between us. They were hardly seated, however, before I began to inform them that as the war was only between them and Mirambo,
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CHAPTER X. — TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
CHAPTER X. — TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day I had decided to cut loose from those who tormented me with their doubts, their fears, and beliefs, and commence the march to Ujiji by a southern route. I was very weak from the fever that had attacked me the day before, and it was a most injudicious act to commence a march under such circumstances. But I had boasted to Sheikh bin Nasib that a white man never breaks his word, and my reputation as a white man would have been ruined had I stayed
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CHAPTER XI. — THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
CHAPTER XI. — THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
We bade farewell to Mrera on the 17th of October, to continue our route north-westward. All the men and I were firm friends now; all squabbling had long ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel; the kirangozi and myself were ready to embrace, so loving and affectionate were the terms upon which we stood towards one another. Confidence returned to all hearts—for now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, "we could smell the fish of the Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with all its disquietude, was far behind.
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LIVINGSTONE'S OWN STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS, HIS TROUBLES, AND DISAPPOINTMENTS.
LIVINGSTONE'S OWN STORY OF HIS JOURNEYS, HIS TROUBLES, AND DISAPPOINTMENTS.
"What was I sent for?" "To find Livingstone." "Have you found him?" "Yes, of course; am I not in his house? Whose compass is that hanging on a peg there? Whose clothes, whose boots, are those? Who reads those newspapers, those 'Saturday Reviews' and numbers of 'Punch' lying on the floor?" "Well, what are you going to do now?" "I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and what brought me here. I will then ask him to write a letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give what news he can spare. I did not co
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EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-END OF THE LAKE— THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE—RETURN TO UJIJI.
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-END OF THE LAKE— THE RUSIZI IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE—RETURN TO UJIJI.
"I distinctly deny that 'any misleading by my instructions from the Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile' made me unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the direction of the Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach it, and we failed."—Burton's Zanzibar. "The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusizi River being an influent is the most conclusive argument that it does run out of the lake."—Speke. "I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the ho
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CHAPTER XIV. — OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
CHAPTER XIV. — OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBE.
We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bear-skin, gay Persian carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the wall, sipping our tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat over the incidents of the "picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our journey to the Rusizi. It seemed as if old times, which we loved to recall, had come back again, though our house was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants were only naked barbarians; but it was near this house that I ha
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CHAPTER XV. — HOMEWARD BOUND.—LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS—THE FINAL FAREWELL
CHAPTER XV. — HOMEWARD BOUND.—LIVINGSTONE'S LAST WORDS—THE FINAL FAREWELL
Unyanyembe was now to me a terrestrial Paradise. Livingstone was no less happy; he was in comfortable quarters, which were a palace compared to his hut in Ujiji. Our store-rooms were full of the good things of this life, besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one impedimenta and paraphernalia of travel with which I had loaded over one hundred and fifty men at Bagamoyo. I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the most valuable of which were now to be turned over to Livingstone
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CHAPTER XVI. — VALEDICTORY.
CHAPTER XVI. — VALEDICTORY.
At 5 P.M., on the 7th of May, 1872, the dhow which conveyed my Expedition back to Zanzibar arrived in the harbor, and the men, delighted to find themselves once more so near their homes, fired volley after volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon saw the house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators, many of whom were Europeans, with glasses levelled at us. We drew ashore slowly; but a boat putting off to take us to land, we stepped into it, and I was soon in presence of my friend t
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