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TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCEINSOUTH AMERICA,
TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCEINSOUTH AMERICA,
IN THREE VOLUMES ; CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS. BY W. B. STEVENSON, FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO, COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,—HIS EXCELLENCY THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c. VOL. I. LONDON: HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD,
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The interest which the late successful revolution in Spanish America has awakened in Europe renders any genuine account of the new world so highly acceptable to the British nation, that it has become an almost imperative duty in those who may possess original matter to communicate it to the public; for it may be said, without the least exaggeration, that although the countries thus emancipated were discovered in the sixteenth century, they have remained almost unknown till the beginning of the n
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Mocha....Some account of Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd Islands touched at on our passage....Description of Mocha, its Productions, &c....Leave Mocha, and land at Tucapel Viejo....Description of the Indians, their Dress, &c....Indians take me to their Home....Description of the House, Family, Food, Diversions....Appearance of the Country....What Trade might be introduced. On the 14th of February, 1804, I landed on the Island of Mocha, after a passage of upwards of five
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Leave Tucapel Viejo, and arrive at Tubul....Description of our Breakfast on the road....Stay at the house of the Cacique of Tubul....Some Appearances of Civilization....Game of Pencs, Wrestling, &c....Anchorage, Trade, &c....Face of the Country....Arrival at Arauco....Taken to the Commandant, Interview described....Town of Arauco....Indians who came to barter....Weaving of fine Ponchos ....Excursion to the Water-mills on the Carampangue River....Entertainments, Mate , &c.
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Sent to Talcahuano....Description of the Bay and Anchorage....Plain between Conception and Talcahuano....Prospectus of a Soap Manufactory here....Coal Mine....Town, Custom-house, Inhabitants, &c....Fish, &c. caught in the Bay....Colonial Commerce....Prospectus of a Sawing Mill. After staying a few days at Conception, I was sent for by the governor to Talcahuano, a ship being there ready to sail for Lima. I took with me a note to a resident in the port, and was received by him wit
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Leave Talcahuano in the Dolores....Passage to Callao....Arrival....Taken to the Castle....Leave Callao....Road to Lima....Conveyed to Prison. My present situation was very disagreeable. The government of Conception had placed me on board a Spanish vessel, and had given orders to the captain to deliver me up, the moment he should arrive at Callao, to the governor of the fortress. At the same time he had been charged with letters, containing perhaps an account of my having landed on the Araucanian
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Lima, Origin of its Name....Pachacamac....Foundation of Lima....Pizarro's Palace....Situation of the City....Form of the Valley Rimac....River.... Climate....Temperature....Moists and Rain....Soil....Earthquakes....Produce. Lima is the capital of Peru, and derives its name from Rimac , which original name its river still retains; but the valley was called by the indians Rimac Malca , or the place of witches; it being the custom among the aborigines, even before the establishment of the theocrasi
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Viceroys and Archbishops of Lima....Viceroyalty, Extent....Viceroy's Titles and Privileges....Royal Audience....Cabildo....Forms of Law....Military....Religion....Inquisition....Sessions and Processes....Archbishop....Royal Patronage....Ecclesiastical Tribunals....Chapter, Cabildo Ecclesiastico ....Curates....Asylum of Immunity....Minor Tribunals.... Consulado ....Crusade....Treasury, Accompts.... Temporalidades , Protomedicato . Lima is the metropolitan, and the richest city of South America. U
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Taxes, Alcavala....Indian Tribute....Fifths of the Mines....Lances....Stamped Paper....Tobacco.... Media Anata .... Aprovechamientos .... Composicion and Confirmacion of Lands....Royal Ninths....Venal Offices....Estrays....Confiscations....Fines....Vacant Successions.... Almoxarifasgo .... Corso .... Armada ....Consulate.... Cirquito ....Vacant Benefices.... Mesada Ecclesiastica .... Media Anata Ecclesiastica ....Restitutions....Bulls. The system of taxation in the Spanish colonies was as compli
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
The Population of Lima....Remarks....Table of Castes....The Qualifications of Creoles....Population and Division....Spaniards....Creoles, White....Costume....Indians....African Negroes....Their Cofradias, and royal Personages....Queen Rosa....Creole Negroes....Mestiso....Mulattos....Zambos....Chinos.... Quarterones and Quinterones ....Theatre....Bull Circus....Royal Cockpit....Alamedas....Bathing Places....Piazzas Amancaes ....Elevation and Oration Bells....Processions of Corpus Christi, Santa R
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Fruits in the Gardens of Lima....Flowers....Particular Dishes, or Cookery.... Chuno , dried Potatoes.... Chochoca , dried Maize....Sweetmeats....Meals....Diseases....Medical Observations....On the Commerce of Lima....Profitable Speculations. The south and east sides of Lima are covered with gardens and orchards of the most delicious fruits, both tropical and equinoctial; towards the east there are several gardens within the walls; but the greater number are on the outside. Among the fruits known
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Visit to Pisco....Town of Pisco....Bay of Pisco....Curious Production of Salt.... Huano .... Huanaes ....Vineyards, Brandy....Vineyards de las Hoyas ....Fruits....Chilca, Village of Indians....Leave Lima, Road to Chancay....Pasamayo House.... Nina de la Huaca ....Maize, Cultivation Use of Huano ....Hogs....On the produce of Maize....Different kinds of....Time of Harvesting....Uses of....Chicha of....Sugar of....Town of Chancay.... Colcas ....Town of Huacho.... Chacras of the Indians....On the Ch
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
Villa of Huaura....Description....Village of Supe....Ruins of an Indian Town.... Huacas , Burying Places....Bodies preserved entire....Village of Barranca....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca River....Bridge of Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar Plantation....Produce and Profit....Cane cultivated....Mills....Sugar-house....Management of Slaves....Regulations, &c. of Slaves. Two leagues to the northward of Huacho is the villa or town of Huaura; it consists of one long street and about tw
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TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCEINSOUTH AMERICA,
TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCEINSOUTH AMERICA,
IN THREE VOLUMES ; CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS. BY W. B. STEVENSON, FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO, COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,—HIS EXCELLENCY THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c. VOL. II. LONDON: HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOYD
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Farm of Vinto, Cattle, Grain, &c....First Wheat in Peru.... Tapiales , Fences....Trees, Shrubs, and Plants....Fruit....Animal....Birds, Fish....Appearance of the Villages.... Balsas ....Indian Feast....Indian Burial....Paramonga....Palace or Fortalice. On the side of the river opposite to Huaito I visited the farm of Vinto, which from the purposes to which it is dedicated may be considered as something like an English farm. Horned cattle are bred in considerable numbers; the cows rear th
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Visit to Caxatambo....Roads....Manner of Travelling....Village of Ocros....Cura of Ditto....Indian....Road to Chiquian....Town of Chiquian....Crimes....Mining Laws....Method of working the Ores....Frauds in Plata Piña .... Taonas and Ingenios ....Caxatambo.... Repartimientos ....Manufactures....Inhabitants....Amusements....Road from Caxatambo, Cuesta ....Farm House and Family....Town of Huara....Productions of Huailas....Manufactures of Ditto....Huaras, excellent Mercantile Situation....Province
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
General Mode of Travelling from Lima to the different Provinces....British Manufactures fit for the last Provinces visited....General Character of the Inhabitants....Animals in the Provinces of Huailas, Caxatambo, Conchucos, and Huamalies....Pagi or Puma....Ucumari....Viscacha....Comadreja....Ardillas....Gato Montes....Alco....Llama....Paco....Huanaco....Vicuña....Mulita....Birds....Condor....Vegetable Productions....Mineral ditto....Antiquities....Diseases and Remedies....Hydrophobia. During my
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Travels to the North of Lima....Village of Pativilca....Of Huarmey....Of Casma....Cotton Mill....Santa....River Santa....Nepeña....Farm of Motocachi....Vineyard....Port of Santa.... Tambo de Chao ....Viru....Truxillo....Itinerary between Lima and Truxillo....Description of Truxillo....Buildings....Inhabitants....Climate....Commerce....Jurisdiction....Arms....Plain de Chimu.... Huaca de Toledo ....Tradition of....Huanchaco Port....Valleys of Chimu, Chicama, and Viru....Productions....Road to Caxa
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Historical Sketch of Caxamarca, Huaina Capac, Huascar Inca, and Atahualpa....Arrival of Pizarro at Tumpis....At Caxamarca....Spanish Embassy....Harangue of Soto....Answer of Atahualpa....Visit of Atahualpa to Pizarro....Discourse of Friar Vicente Valverde, to Atahualpa....Answer of Atahualpa....Imprisonment of....Offered Ransom of....Cause of the Jealousy of Pizarro....Arrivals of Treasure....Accusation, for the Trial of Atahualpa....Sentence, Baptism, Execution, and Burial of....Interesting Rem
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Province of Caxamarca....Manufactures, Mines....Village de Jesus....Hawking....Farm of Lagunilla....Inga Tambo....Village of San Marcos....Feast....Wedding....Village of Ichocan....Mine of Gualgayoc....Return to the Coast....Village of Chocope....Of San Pedro....Of Las Lagemas....Of Monsefu....Town of Lambayeque....Inhabitants, Buildings, New Altar....Manufactures, Soap, Cordovans, Cotton Goods, Sweetmeats....Fruits, Grain, Pulse....Vegetables....Market.... Algarroba , Carob Tree....Village of E
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Leave Lima for Guayaquil.... Amortajado ....Puná....Arrival of the Spaniards, and Conquest of....Village of....Inhabitant....Passage up the River Guayaquil.... Punta de Arena ....Guayaquil....Foundation and Description of....Buildings....Inhabitants....Amusements....Market....Fruit....Climate....Insects and Reptiles....Dock Yard....Project of Sawing Mills....Balsa, Description of....Navigation of....Canoes....Merchants of Guayaquil. On my arrival at Lima, his Excellency the Count Ruis de Castill
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Productions of the Province of Guayaquil, Cocoa....cultivation....Harvest....Tobacco....Timber....Salt....Cattle....Minor Articles of Trade.... Turbines found at Santa Elena....Large Bones, &c....Animals, Perico , Ligero ....Monkeys.... Iguanas ....Toucanes.... Trompeteros ....Snakes....Curiquinqui, Snake-eater.... Huaco , Antidote for the Bite of Snakes.... Lagartos , Alligators, Description of....Methods of Killing....Fishermen....Mineral Productions. The following account of the produ
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Journey from Guayaquil to Quito....Babaoyo....Road to Chimbo.... Cuesta de San Antonio ....Arrival at Huaranda....Triumphal Arch and Harangue....Description of Huaranda and Province of Chimbo....Chimboraso....Accident at la Ensillada....Road to San Juan.... Obrage of Indians....Arrival at Riobamba....Description of....Remains of Old Riobamba......Visit to an old Cacique......Province of Riobamba......Road to Ambato....Description of....Produce....Arrival at Tacunga....Description of....Earthquak
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Quito, Foundation and Situation....Plasa Mayor....President's Palace, Bishop's Palace and Cathedral....Parishes....Convents and Public Buildings....Jesuit's College....Convent of San Francisco....San Diego....Santa Prisca....Santa Clara....University....College of San Luis....of San Fernando....Houses....Government....Nobility....Population....White Creoles....Occupation of and Education....Character of....Mestisos, Persons, Character, Employment....Indians....Persons, Character, Employment....D
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Visit of the Academicians to Quito in 1736....Inscription left by....Climate of Quito....View of Mountains at....Description of Chimboraso....Of Cayambe urcu....Of Antisana....Of Cotopaxi....Of Pichincha....Of El Altar....Description of the fertility of the Valleys....Mines....Ruins of Temples, Palaces, and Fortified Places....Account of the Indians....Of Commerce. In 1736 the academy of sciences at Paris sent M. Luis Godin, M. Peter Bouguer, M. Charles de la Condamine and others to Quito, in or
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Villa of Ibarra, Description.....Villa of Otavalo, Description....Lakes San Pablo and Cuicocha....Visit to the River Mapo....Gold Mines on the Banks of....Indians pay their Tribute in Gold....Bæza, the Capital of the District....Description of the Inhabitants, &c....Commissioned by the Government to Explore a Road from the Capital to the nearest Point of the Coast....Maldonado's Road....Leave Quito....Cross the Skirts of Pichincha, arrive at the River Piti....Description of the Country..
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
Continuation of Esmeraldas, Fish caught in the River.... Chautisa , method of taking....Preserving of....Method of catching Fish in the River....Of Cooking it....Yucas, Camotes, Yams....Palmettos....Tobacco....Cocoa....New variety of....Occupation of the Esmeraldeños....Origin of....Language....Dress....Manners and Character of....Religion....Re-ascend the Esmeraldas River, to the Embarcadero de Maldonado....Mouth of the River....City of Esmeraldas....Road to Atacames....Port of....Town of.... M
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Visit to Cayapas....Village....Inhabitants....Houses and Furniture....Visit to the Malabas, Wild Indians....Arrival at the Vijia....Interview with the Cacique, Family of....Tribe of the Malabas....Tradition of the Origin of....Dress of....Manners....Laws....Return to Cayapas....Visit Tumaco....Description of....Barbacoas....Description of....Gold Mines....Manner of Working them....Leave the Coast, Malbucho Road....River Mira.... Puentes de Maroma , and Taravitas .... Piquigua ....Arrive at Ibarr
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TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCEINSOUTH AMERICA,
TWENTY YEARS' RESIDENCEINSOUTH AMERICA,
IN THREE VOLUMES ; CONTAINING TRAVELS IN ARAUCO, CHILE, PERU, AND COLOMBIA; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE REVOLUTION, ITS RISE, PROGRESS, AND RESULTS. BY W. B. STEVENSON, FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE PRESIDENT AND CAPTAIN GENERAL OF QUITO, COLONEL, AND GOVERNOR OF ESMERALDAS, CAPTAIN DE FRAGATA, AND LATE SECRETARY TO THE VICE ADMIRAL OF CHILE,—HIS EXCELLENCY THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD COCHRANE, &c. VOL. III. LONDON: HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. CONSTABLE & Co. AND OLIVER & BOY
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
First Revolutionary Symptoms in South America....Morales and Quiroga....Character of Morales....Of Quiroga....Discovery made by Captain Salinas to two Friars....Their Report to the Government....Imprisonment of Morales, Quiroga, Salinas, and Riofrio....Character of Salinas....of Dr. Riofrio....Liberation of the Prisoners....Junta formed at Quito....Advice of to the President, Count Ruis....Manner in which the Revolution was conducted....New Oath....Marquis of Selva Alegre....Character of....Diss
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Second Revolution at Quito....Massacre of the Prisoners....General Meeting held....Spanish Troops leave Quito....Revolution at Santa Fé....Arrival of Don Carlos Montufar at Quito....Arredonda invades Quito....Arrives at Huaranda....Flies from....Montufar marches towards Cuenca....Desists from attacking the City....Returns to Quito....My Appointment to Esmeraldas....Capture and Escape....General Montes enters Quito....Death of Montufar....Quito taken by General Sucre. After the departure of San M
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
State of Lima....Expedition to Chile, under Colonel Gainsa....Exit of....Regiment of Talavera arrives from Spain....Part of sent to Huamanga....Revolution of Cusco and Arequipa....Death of Pumacagua, and the Patriot Melgar....Arrival of Flags taken by Osoria in Chile....Viceroy Abascal superseded by Pesuela....Character of the former....Beginning of Pesuela's Administration....Arrival of La Serna....State of Lima to 1817....Battle of Chacabuco in Chile....Extract of a Journal....New Expedition t
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Santiago....Foundation....Description of the City....Contrast between the Society here and at Lima....State of Chile....Manners and Customs....Revolution....Carreras....O'Higgins....Defeat at Rancagua....Chileans cross the Cordillera....Action of Chacabuco....Of Maypu....Death of Don Juan Jose, and Don Luis Carrera....Murder of Colonel Rodrigues....Formation of a Naval Force....Death of Spanish Prisoners at San Luis....Naval Expedition under Lord Cochrane....Failure of the Attack on Callao....At
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Passage from Guayaquil River to Valdivia....Lord Cochrane reconnoitres the Harbour....Capture of the Spanish Brig Potrillo....Arrival at Talcahuano....Preparations for an Expedition to Valdivia....Troops furnished by General Freire....O'Higgins runs aground....Arrival off Valdivia....Capture of Valdivia....Attempt on Chiloe fails....Return of Lord Cochrane....Leaves Valdivia for Valparaiso....Victory by Beauchef....Arrival of the Independencia and Araucano....O'Higgins repaired....Return to Valp
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Lord Cochrane and Chilean Government....Preparations for the Expedition to Peru....Captain Spry....Charges presented by the Admiral against Captain Guise....Lord Cochrane throws up his Commission....Letters from the Captains and Officers....Commission returned by the Government....Offer made by San Martin to the Foreign Seamen....Embarkation of Troops for Peru....Announcement of....Sailing of the Expedition....Force of the Squadron. Lord Cochrane, whose whole soul was engaged in the total emanci
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Battalion of Numancia joins the Liberating Army....Victory at Pasco by Arenales....Route of Arenales from Ica....Courts Martial held in the Squadron on Officers....Conduct of General San Martin....Viceroy Pesuela deposed....Expedition to Pisco....To Arica....Action at Mirabe, under Lieutenant-Colonel Miller....Description of Arica....Of Tacna....Of Ilo....Armistice celebrated by Generals San Martin and La Serna....Prorogation of....Lord Cochrane leaves Mollendo, and arrives at Callao. On the thi
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Lima evacuated by La Serna....Occupation of by the Liberating Army....Loss of the San Martin....Arrival of Lord Cochrane at Lima....Conduct of the Spaniards after leaving Lima....Independence of Peru sworn....San Martin constitutes himself Protector of Peru....Interview between Lord Cochrane and San Martin....Announcement of the views of the Spanish Army....State of the Squadron....San Martin takes the field....Arrival and Departure of Cantarac....Proclamation of San Martin....Treasure taken at
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Revolution and State of Guayaquil....Squadron leaves....Island of Cocoa....Bay of Fonseca....Visitors from the Shore....Leave Fonseca....Volcano....Arrive at Acapulco....General Waevell and Colonel O'Reilly....Letter from Iturbide....Leave Acapulco....Description of....Gale of Wind off Tehuantepec....Tacames or Atcames....News of the Enemy....Arrive at the Puná....Guayaquil....Lord Cochrane hoists the Chilean Flag in the Vengansa....Conduct of the People at Guayaquil....Treaty with the Governmen
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
Commercial Code at Lima....Provincial Statutes announced....Liberty of the Press....Foreigners declared amenable to the Laws....Institution of the Order of the Sun....New Commercial Rules....Titles changed....Order to convene the Constituent Congress....San Martin delegates his Authority to the Marquis de Torre Tagle....San Martin leaves Lima and returns....Army defeated under Tristan at Ica....State of Lima on our Arrival....Visit of Monteagudo to Lord Cochrane....San Martin annuls the Treaty a
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