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TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC.
TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC.
MY LORD, Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian colonies. Under present disappointment it must be as g
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NOTICE.
NOTICE.
It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be the case. I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks in the Appendix. To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whos
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PLATES TO VOLUME II.
PLATES TO VOLUME II.
View from Stanley's Range Native Grave Cooper's Creek Geophaps plumifera; Peristera histrionica Strzelecki's Creek Mr. Eyre's House at Moorundi Piesse's Knob King William Street, Adelaide Port Adelaide Mount Bryan Murray River Cinclosoma Cinnamoneus Building, Adelaide Gaol, Adelaide ERRATA Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in the eBook between braces{}. Sketch of the Sturt's tracks and discoveries...
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The prominent part I have taken in the furtherance of Geographical Discovery on the Australian continent, and the attention, it will naturally be supposed, I have paid to the subject generally, will lead the reader perhaps to expect that I should, at the commencement of a work such as this, put him in possession of all the facts, with which I myself am acquainted, as to the character of those portions of it, which had been explored, before I commenced my recent labours. This may reasonably be ex
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT OF ITS RIVERS PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY ITS PERIODICAL RISE BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS OBSERVATIONS RESULTS SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE DARLING ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828 CHARACTER O
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI NATIVE GUIDES NAMES OF THE PARTY SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY PROGRESS UP THE RIVER ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY GRASSY PLAINS CAMBOLI'S HOME TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD PULCANTI ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES RETURN OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE EASTWARD. Entertaining the views I have explained in my last chapter, I wrote in January, 1843, to Lord Stanley,
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
MR. BROWNE'S RETURN HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY CHANGE OF SCENE CONTINUED RAIN TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY STORY OF THE MASSACRE LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA ACCIDENT TO FLOOD TURN NORTHWARDS CROSS TO THE DARLING MEET NATIVES TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER NADBUCK'S CUNNING ABUNDANCE OF FEED SUDDEN FLOODS BAD COUNTRY ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT PERPLEXITY MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES MR. BROWNE'S RETURN FOOD OF THE NATIVES POSITION OF WILLIORARA. Lake Victoria is a very pretty sheet of water, 24 m
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
TOONDA'S TRIBE DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER MR. POOLE'S RETURN LEAVE THE DARLING REMARKS ON THAT RIVER CAWNDILLA THE OLD BOOCOLO LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS REACH A CREEK WELLS TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT ASCEND THE RANGES RETURN HOMEWARDS EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY REACH PARNARI MOVE TO THE HILLS JOURNEY TO N. WEST HEAVY RAINS RETURN TO CAMP MR. POOLE LEAVES LEAVE THE RANGES DESCENT TO THE PLAINS MR. POOLE'S RETURN HIS REPORT FLOOD'S CREEK AQUATIC BIRDS RANGES
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
NATIVE WOMEN SUDDEN SQUALL JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD VIEW FROM MOUNT LYELL INCREASED TEMPERATURE MR. POOLE'S RETURN HIS REPORT LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER EXTRICATE THE PARTY STATE OF THE MEN MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP PROCEED NORTHWARDS CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER MUDDY CREEK GEOLOGICAL FORMATION GYPSUM PUSH ON TO THE RANGES RETURN TO THE CREEK AGAIN ASCEND THE RANGES FIND WATER BEYOND THEM PROCEED TO TH
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
THE DEPOT FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED CHARACTER OF THE RANGES JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST RETURN JOURNEY TO THE WEST RETURN AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER THE PARTY SEPARATES PROGRESS NORTHWARDS CONTINUE TO ADVANCE SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSE CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL REJOIN MR. STUART JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY FIND TWO PONDS OF WATER THE GRASSY PARK RETURN TO THE RANGE EXCESSIVE HEAT A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE REGAIN THE DEPOT. As t
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD FLOODED PLAINS NATIVE FAMILY PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER AGAIN TURN EASTWARD STERILE COUNTRY SALT LAGOON DISTANT HILLS TO THE EAST RETURN TO THE CAMP INTENSE HEAT OFFICERS ATTACKED BY SCURVY JOURNEY TO THE WEST NO WATER FORCED TO RETURN ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE VISITED BY A NATIVE SECOND JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD STORY OF THE NATIVE KITES AND CROWS ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE PREPARATIONS FOR A MOVE INDICATIONS OF RAIN INTENSE ANXIETY HEAVY RAIN M
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST SCARCITY OF WATER FOSSIL LIMESTONE ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK EXTENSIVE PLAINS SUCCESSION OF CREEKS FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY POND WITH FISH STERILE COUNTRY GRASSY PLAINS INTREPID NATIVE COUNTRY APPARENTLY IMPROVES DISAPPOINTMENTS WATER FOUND APPEARANCE OF THE STONY DESERT NIGHT THEREON THE EARTHY PLAIN HILLS RAISED BY REFRACTION RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND RIDGES THEIR UNDEVIATING REGULARITY CONJECTURES AS TO THE DESERT RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE TORRENS C
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT FOREST FULL OF BIRDS NATIVE WELL BIRDS COLLECT TO DRINK DANGEROUS PLAIN FLOOD'S HORSE LOST SCARCITY OF WATER TURN NORTHWARD DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK BRIGHT PROSPECTS SUDDEN DISAPPOINTMENT SALT LAGOON SCARCITY OF WATER SALT WATER CREEK CHARACTER OF THE INTERIOR FORCED TO TURN BACK RISK OF ADVANCING THE FURTHEST NORTH RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE CREEK PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD DREADFUL COUNTRY JOURNEY TO THE NORTH AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN NATIVES STATION ON THE CREEK CONCLUDING
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CHAPTER II/I.
CHAPTER II/I.
REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES COMMENCE THE RETREAT EYRE'S CREEK PASS THE NATIVE WELL RECROSS THE STONY DESERT FIND ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT WATER NATIVES SUCCESSFUL FISHING VALUE OF SHEEP DECIDE ON A RETREAT PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE SHOULD LEAVE HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE PARTY MR. BROWNE'S DECISION PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT SINGULAR EXPLOSION DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK PROCEED TO THE NORTH RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES SALT WATER LAKE AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESE
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CHAPTER II/II.
CHAPTER II/II.
THE HORSES ASCEND THE HILLS IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT HORSES REDUCED TO GREAT WANT UNEXPECTED RELIEF TRY THE DESERT TO THE N.E. FIND WATER IN OUR LAST WELL REACH THE CREEK PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD PLAGUE OF FLIES AND ANTS SURPRISE AN OLD MAN SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS FISH POOL OF BRINE MEET NATIVES TURN TO THE N.E. COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, THEIR KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS TURN BACK PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD EFFECTS OF REFRACTION FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND THE STORES UNTOUCH
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CHAPTER II/III.
CHAPTER II/III.
CONTINUED DROUGHT TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND THERMOMETER BURSTS DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED LEAVE FORT GREY FOR THE DEPOT DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS MIGRATION OF BIRDS HOT WINDS EMBARRASSING POSITION MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK THREE BULLOCKS SHOT COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S CREEK STATE OF VEGETATION EFFECTS OF SCURVY ARRIVE AT ROCKY GLEN COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES HALT AT CARNAPAGA ARRIVAL AT CAWNDILLA REMOVAL TO THE DARLING LEAVE THE DARLING STATE OF
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CHAPTER II/IV.
CHAPTER II/IV.
REMARKS ON THE SEASON DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS WINDS IN THE INTERIOR DIRECTION OF THE RANGES GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY CENTRAL CHAIN PROBABLE COURSE OF THE STONY DESERT WHETHER CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES THE NATIVES THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES THE WOMEN CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES THEIR HABITATIONS FOOD LANGUAGE CONCLUSION. Having thus brought my narrat
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CHAPTER III/I.
CHAPTER III/I.
DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE SEA MOUTH OF THE MURRAY ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN RISK OF THE ATTEMPT BEACHING ROSETTA HARBOUR VICTOR HARBOUR NEPEAN BAY KANGAROO ISLAND KINGSCOTE CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE PORT ADELAIDE REMOVAL TO THE NORTH ARM HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT YORKE'S PENINSULA PORT LINCOLN CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS BOSTON ISLAND BOSTON BAY COFFIN'S BAY MR. CAMERON SENT ALONG THE COAST HIS REPORT POSITION OF PORT ADE
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CHAPTER III/II.
CHAPTER III/II.
PLAINS OF ADELAIDE BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS SITE OF ADELAIDE GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND CHURCHES SCHOOLS POLICE ROADS THE GAWLER BAROSSA RANGE THE MURRAY BELT MOORUNDI NATIVES ON THE MURRAY DISTANT STOCK STATIONS MOUNT GAMBIER DISTRICT ITS RICHNESS ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY MOUNT BARKER DISTRICT SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE PROVINCE PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL PORT LINCOLN CLIMATE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER SALUBRITY. Having, in the preceding chapter, run al
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CHAPTER III/III.
CHAPTER III/III.
SEASONS CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN EXTENT OF CULTIVATION AMOUNT OF STOCK THE BURRA-BURRA MINE ITS MAGNITUDE ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS ABSENCE OF COAL SMELTING ORE IMMENSE PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA EFFECT OF THE MINES ON THE LABOUR MARKET RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO EMIGRATE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANADA AND AUSTRALIA THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES STATE OF SOCIETY THE MIDDLE CLASSES THE SQUATTERS THE GERMANS THE NATIVES AUTHOR'S INTERVIEWS WITH THEM INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING THEIR BAD QUAL
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MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA.
MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA.
Whilst I was endeavouring to penetrate into the heart of the Australian Continent, there were two other Expeditions of Discovery engaged in exploring the country to the eastward of me. Dr. Leichhardt, an account of whose successful and enterprising journey from Moreton Bay to Port Essington is already before the public, was keeping the high lands at no great distance from the coast, and Sir Thomas Mitchell, the Surveyor-General of New South Wales, was traversing the more depressed interior, betw
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APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
But few mammalia inhabit Central Australia. The nature of the country indeed is such, that we could hardly expect to find any remarkable variety. The greater part is only tenable after or during heavy rains, when the hollows in the flats between the sandy ridges contain water. On such occasions the natives move about the country, and subsist almost exclusively on the Hapalotis Mitchellii, and an animal they call the Talpero, a species of Perameles, which is spread over a great extent of country,
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