The Work from which the present Volume is translated consists of extracts from the Author's Journal, accompanied by his recollections and observations. The absence of chronological arrangement will be sufficiently accounted for, when it is explained that the zoological investigations for which the journey was undertaken frequently required the Author to make repeated visits to one particular place or district, or to remain for a considerable time within the narrow circuit of a few miles; and som

Embarkation at Havre—​The Voyage—​Arrival at the Island of Chiloe—​Landing—​The Gyr-Falcon—​Punta Arena—​The Island of Chiloe described—​Climate and Cultivation—​Cattle—​The Bay—​San Carlos—​The Governor's House—​Poverty and Wretchedness of the Inhabitants of the Town—​Strange method of Ploughing—​Coasting Vessels—​Smuggling—​Zoology—​Departure from Chiloe. On the 27th of February, 1838, I sailed from Havre-de-Grace on board the "Edmond." This vessel, though a French merchantman, was freighted w

Valparaiso and the adjacent country—​The Bay—​Aspect of the Town—​Lighthouses—​Forts—​Custom House—​Exchange—​Hotels and Taverns—​War with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation—​First Expedition—​Preparations for the Second Expedition—​Embarkation of the Troops—​Close of the Port—​July Festival in honor of the French Revolution—​The Muele , or Mole—​Police—​ Serenos , or Watchmen—​Moveable Prisons—​Clubs—​Trade of Valparaiso—​Santiago—​Zoology. The impression produced by the approach to Valparaiso on

Juan Fernandez—​Robinson Crusoe—​Passage to Callao—​San Lorenzo—​Rise and fall of the coast—​Mr. Darwin's opinions on this subject—​Callao—​The Fortress—​Siege by the Spaniards—​General Rodil—​Siege by the Chilians—​The Colocolo—​Pirates—​Zoology—​Road to Lima. With a favorable east wind we reached, in thirty-six hours, the island of Juan Fernandez, which lies in the latitude of Valparaiso. Ships from Europe, bound to Peru, which do not go into Chile, usually touch at Juan Fernandez to test thei

Lima—​Situation and extent of the City—​Streets, Houses, Churches and Convents—​San Pedro—​The Jesuits—​Nunneries—​Beatarios—​Hospitals—​San Andres—​The Foundling House—​The Pantheon—​The Palace—​The Plaza Mayor—​Pizarro—​The Cabildo—​Fountains—​Palace of the Inquisition—​The University—​National Library—​Museum of Natural History and Antiquities—​Academy of Design—​The Mint—​The Theatre—​Circus for Cock-fighting—​The Bridge—​The City Wall—​Santa Catalina—​Barracks. Lima is built on both banks o

Population of Lima—​Its diminution—​Different races of the Inhabitants—​Their characteristics—​Amusements—​Education—​The women of Lima—​Their Costume—​The Saya y Manto —​Female domestic life—​Love of dress—​Beatas—​Indians—​Slaves—​Bosales—​Free Creoles—​Negroes—​Negresses—​Black Creoles—​Their varieties—​Mestizos—​Mulattoes—​Palanganas—​Zambos—​Chinos—​Foreigners in Lima—​Corruption of the Spanish language. Proceeding from the shell to the kernel, we will now take a glance at the inhabitants o

Primary Schools—​Colleges—​The University—​Monks—​Saints—​Santo Toribio and Santa Rosa—​Religious Processions—​Raising the Host—​The Noche Buena—​The Carnival—​Paseos, or Public Promenades—​Ice—​Riding and Driving—​Horses—​Their Equipments and Training—​Mules—​Lottery in Lima—​Cookery—​Breakfasts, Dinners, &c.—​Coffee-houses and Restaurants—​Markets—​The Plazo Firme del Acho —​Bull Fights. Schools for primary instruction are numerous in Lima, and upon the whole they are tolerably well co

Geographical Situation of Lima—​Height above Sea level—​Temperature—​Diseases—​Statistical Tables of Births and Deaths—​Earthquakes—​The Valley of Lima—​The River Rimac—​Aqueducts, Trenches, &c.—​Irrigation—​Plantations—​Cotton—​Sugar—​Various kinds of Grain—​Maize—​Potatoes, and other tuberous roots—​Pulse—​Cabbage—​Plants used for Seasoning—​Clover—​The Olive and other Oil Trees—​Fruits—​Figs and Grapes—​The Chirimoya—​The Palta—​The Banana and other Fruits. Lima, according to the care

Robbers on the coast of Peru—​The Bandit Leaders Leon and Rayo—​The Corps of Montoneros—​Watering Places near Lima—​Surco, Atte and Lurin—​Pacchacamac—​Ruins of the Temple of the Sun—​Difficulties of Travelling on the Coast of Peru—​Sea Passage to Huacho—​Indian Canoes—​Ichthyological Collections—​An old Spaniard's recollections of Alexander Von Humboldt—​The Padre Requena—​Huacho—​Plundering of Burial Places—​Huaura—​Malaria—​The Sugar Plantation at Luhmayo—​Quipico—​Ancient Peruvian Ruins—​The

The Coast southward of Lima—​Chilca—​Curious Cigar cases made there—​Yauyos—​Pisco—​Journey to Yca—​A night on the Sand Plains—​Fatal Catastrophe in the year 1823—​Vine Plantations at Yca—​Brandy and Wine—​Don Domingo Elias—​Vessels for transporting Brandy (Botijas and odres)—​Cruel mode of skinning Goats—​Negro Carnival—​Peculiar species of Guinea Pig—​The Salamanqueja—​Cotton Plantations—​Quebrada of Huaitara—​Sangallan—​Guano—​Retrospect of the Peruvian Coast—​Rivers—​Medanos—​Winds—​Change o

Roads leading to the Sierra—​Chaclacayo and Santa Iñes—​Barometrical observations—​San Pedro Mama—​The Rio Seco—​Extraordinary Geological Phenomenon—​Similar one described by Mr. Darwin—​Surco—​Diseases peculiar to the Villages of Peru—​The Verugas—​Indian mode of treating the disorder—​The Bird-catching Spider—​Horse-Shoeing—​Indian Tambos—​San Juan de Matucanas—​The Thorn-apple and the Tonga—​The Tambo de Viso—​Bridges—​San Mateo—​Passports—​Acchahuari—​Malady called the Veta—​Its effects on h

The Cordillera and the Andes—​Signification of the terms—​Altitude of the Mountains and Passes—​Lakes—​Metals—​Aspect of the Cordillera—​Shattered Rocks—​Maladies caused by the diminished Atmospheric Pressure—​The Veta and the Surumpe—​Mountain Storms—​The Condor—​Its habits—​Indian mode of Catching the Bird—​The Puna or Despoblado—​Climate—​Currents of Warm Air—​Vegetation—​Tuberous Plant called the Maca—​Animals of the Puna—​The Llama, the Alpaco, the Huanacu and the Vicuña—​The Chacu and the

Cerro de Pasco—​First discovery of the Mines—​Careless mode of working them—​Mine Owners and Mine Laborers—​Amalgamating and Refining—​Produce of the Mines—​Life in Cerro de Pasco—​Different Classes of the Population—​Gaming and Drunkenness—​Extravagance and Improvidence of the Indian Mine Laborers—​The Cerro de San Fernando—​Other Important Mining Districts in Peru—​The Salcedo Mine—​Castrovireyna—​Vast Productiveness of the Silver Mines of Peru—​Rich Mines secretly known to the Indians—​Roads

The Sierra—​Its Climate and Productions—​Inhabitants—​Trade—​Eggs circulated as money—​Mestizos in the Sierra—​Their Idleness and Love of Gaming and Betting—​Agriculture—​The Quinua Plant, a substitute for Potatoes—​Growth of Vegetables and Fruits in the Sierra—​Rural Festivals at the Seasons of Sowing and Reaping—​Skill of the Indians in various Handicrafts—​Excess of Brandy-Drinking—​Chicha—​Disgusting mode of making it—​Festivals of Saints—​Dances and Bull-Fights—​Celebration of Christmas-Day

Road to the Primeval Forests—​Barbacoas, or Indian Suspension Bridges—​Vegetation—​Hollow Passes—​Zoology—the Montaña—​Plantations—​Inhabitants—​Trade in Peruvian Bark—​Wandering Indians—​Wild Indians or Indios Bravos—​Languages, Manners, and Customs of the Indios Bravos—​Dress—​Warlike Weapons and Hunting Arms—​Dwellings—​Religion—​Physical formation of the Wild Indian Tribes—​Animals of the Aboriginal Forests—​Mammalia—​Hunting the Ounce—​Birds—​Amphibia—​Poisonous Serpents—​Huaco—​Insects—​Pl

Montaña of San Carlos de Vitoc—​Villages—​Hacienda of Maraynioc—the Coca Plant—​Mode of Cultivating and Gathering it—​Mastication of Coca—​Evil Consequences of its excessive Use—​Its Nutritious Qualities—​Indian Superstitions connected with the Coca Plant—​Suggestions for its Introduction in the European Navies—​Fabulous animal called the Carbunculo—​The Chunchos—​Missions to Cerro de la Sal—​Juan Santos Atahuallpa—​The Franciscan Monks—​Depopulation of Vitoc. The Montaña of San Carlos de Vitoc

Oppressions exercised by the Spaniards upon the Peruvian Indians—​The Repartimiento and the Mita—​Indian Insurrections—​Tupac Amaru—​His Capture and Execution—​War of Independence—​Character of the Peruvian Indians—​Music—​Dress—​Superstitions—​Longevity—​Diminished Population of Peru—​Languages spoken by the Aboriginal Inhabitants—​Specimen of Quichua Poetry—​The Yaravies—​The Quipu—​Water Conduits—​Ancient Buildings—​Fortresses—​Idols—​Domestic Utensils—​Ancient Peruvian Graves—​Mode of Buryin