Leaves From The Journal Of Our Life In The Highlands
Queen of Great Britain Victoria
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EDITOR’S PREFACE.
EDITOR’S PREFACE.
The circumstances which have led to the publication of this Volume are, briefly, these. During one of the Editor’s official visits to Balmoral, her Majesty very kindly allowed him to see several extracts from her journal, relating to excursions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much interested by them; and expressed the interest which he felt. It then occurred to her Majesty that these extracts, referring, as they did, to some of the happiest hours of her life, might be made into a book, to b
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EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.
EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.
First Visit to Scotland. On Board the Royal George Yacht, Monday, August 29, 1842. At five o’clock in the morning we left Windsor for the railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone on to Woolwich . We reached London at a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and arrived at Woolwich before seven. Albert and I immediately stepped into
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Visit to Blair Athole.
Visit to Blair Athole.
Monday, September 9, 1844. We got up at a quarter to six o’clock. We breakfasted. Mama came to take leave of us; Alice and the baby [10] were brought in, poor little things, to wish us “good-by.” Then good Bertie [11] came down to see us, and Vicky [12] appeared as “voyageuse,” and was all impatience to go. At seven we set off with her for the railroad, Viscountess Canning and Lady Caroline Cocks [13] in our carriage. A very wet morning. We got into the carriage again at Paddington , and proceed
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Tour round the West Coast of Scotland, and Visit to Ardverikie.
Tour round the West Coast of Scotland, and Visit to Ardverikie.
Wednesday, August 11, 1847. We proceeded from the Osborne Pier on board the yacht. Our two eldest children, my brother Charles, the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord Grey (Secretary of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us. We have with us the following steamers:—The “Black Eagle,” “Garland,” “Undine,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge” (war-steamers). The two equerries are on board the “Black Eagle.” We were soon under weigh, and as Osborne vanished from o
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LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,
LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,
1848 TO 1861. The Lay of the Last Minstrel. BALMORAL.—THE OLD CASTLE. After a Sketch by Wild....
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First Impressions of Balmoral.
First Impressions of Balmoral.
Balmoral, Friday, September 8, 1848. We arrived at Balmoral at a quarter to three. It is a pretty little castle in the old Scottish style. There is a picturesque tower and garden in front, with a high wooded hill; at the back there is wood down to the Dee ; and the hills rise all around. There is a nice little hall, with a billiard-room; next to it is the dining-room. Upstairs (ascending by a good broad staircase) immediately to the right, and above the dining-room, is our sitting-room (formerly
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First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar.
First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar.
Saturday, September 16, 1848. At half-past nine o’clock Albert and I set off in a postchaise, and drove to the bridge in the wood of Balloch Buie , about five miles from Balmoral , where our ponies and people were. Here we mounted, and were attended by a keeper of Mr. Farquharson’s as guide, Macdonald [20] —who, with his shooting-jacket, and in his kilt, looked a picture—Grant [21] on a pony, with our luncheon in two baskets, and Batterbury [22] on another pony. We went through that beautiful wo
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A “Drive” in the Balloch Buie.
A “Drive” in the Balloch Buie.
September 18, 1848. At a quarter-past ten o’clock we set off in a postchaise with Bertie, and drove beyond the house of Mr. Farquharson’s keeper in the Balloch Buie . We then mounted our ponies, Bertie riding Grant’s pony on the deer-saddle, and being led by a gillie, Grant walking by his side. Macdonald and several gillies were with us, and we were preceded by Bowman and old Arthur Farquharson, a deer-stalker of Invercauld’s. They took us up a beautiful path winding through the trees and heathe
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The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach.
The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach.
August 30, 1849. After writing our letters, we set off on our ponies, with Miss Dawson, [23] Macdonald, Grant, Batterbury, and Hamis Coutts; Hamis is Gaelic for James, and is pronounced “Hamish.” The road has been improved since last year, and though it is still very rough, there are no fords to pass, nor real difficulties any longer. We rode the whole way, and Albert only walked the last two miles. He took a Gaelic lesson during our ride, asking Macdonald, who speaks it with great purity, many
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A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods.
A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods.
September 3, 1849. At a quarter-past eleven we drove (the three gentlemen going in another carriage) to the road along which we went with Lord Portman the other day, and up to a small path, where I mounted my pony, Albert and the others walking. We came to Geannachoil , and Albert was much pleased with the splendid view. The lights were most beautiful, but the heat was overpowering, and the sun burning We turned to the right when out on the moors, where I got off and walked; and we seated oursel
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Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c.
Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c.
September 11, 1849. The morning was very fine. I heard the children repeat some poetry in German, and then at ten o’clock we set off with Lady Douro [26] in our carriage, and drove on beyond Inch Bobbard , changing horses near Birkhall , and stopping for a moment at the Linn of Muich ; here we found the ponies, which we mounted, forded the river, and were almost immediately at the hut. We stopped there only for an instant, and remounted our ponies directly; Grant, Macdonald (who led my pony the
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Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd.
Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd.
September 6, 1850. At half-past ten o’clock we set off with Lady Douro and Ernest Leiningen, [27] and drove to Invercauld , about three-quarters of a mile beyond the house, where we found our people and ponies, together with Arthur Farquharson, Shewin, and others. We then walked a little way, after which we mounted our ponies and began the ascent towards Ben-na-Bhourd ; Macdonald leading my pony, good little “Lochnagar,” and James Coutts Lady Douro’s. There is an excellent path, almost a narrow
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The Gathering.
The Gathering.
September 12, 1850. We lunched early, and then went at half-past two o’clock, with the children and all our party, except Lady Douro, to the Gathering at the Castle of Braemar , as we did last year. The Duffs, Farquharsons, the Leeds’s, and those staying with them, and Captain Forbes [28] and forty of his men who had come over from Strath Don , were there. [29] Some of our people were there also. There were the usual games of “putting the stone,” “throwing the hammer” and “caber,” and racing up
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Salmon Leistering.
Salmon Leistering.
September 13, 1850. We walked with Charles, the boys, and Vicky to the river side above the bridge, where all our tenants were assembled with poles and spears, or rather “leisters” for catching salmon. They all went into the river, walking up it, and then back again, poking about under all the stones to bring fish up to where the men stood with the net. It had a very pretty effect; about one hundred men wading through the river, some in kilts with poles and spears, all very much excited. Not suc
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Loch Muich.
Loch Muich.
September 16, 1850. We reached the hut at three o’clock. At half-past four we walked down to the loch, and got into the boat with our people: Duncan, J. Brown, [32] P. Coutts, [33] and Leys rowing. They rowed mostly towards the opposite side, which is very fine indeed, and deeply furrowed by the torrents, which form glens and corries where birch and alder trees grow close to the water’s edge. We landed on a sandy spot below a fine glen, through which flows the Black Burn . It was very dry here;
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Torch-Light Ball at Corriemulzie.
Torch-Light Ball at Corriemulzie.
September 10, 1852. We dined at a quarter-past six o’clock in morning gowns, (not ordinary ones, but such as are worn at a “breakfast,”) and at seven started for Corriemulzie , for a torch-light ball in the open air. I wore a white bonnet, a grey watered silk, and (according to Highland fashion) my plaid scarf over my shoulder; and Albert his Highland dress which he wears every evening. We drove in the postchaise; the two ladies, Lord Derby and Colonel Gordon following in the other carriage. It
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Account of the News of the Duke of Wellington’s Death.
Account of the News of the Duke of Wellington’s Death.
Alt-na-Giuthasach, Thursday, September 16, 1852. We were startled this morning, at seven o’clock, by a letter from Colonel Phipps, enclosing a telegraphic despatch with the report, from the sixth edition of the Sun , of the Duke of Wellington’s death the day before yesterday, which report, however, we did not at all believe. Would to God that we had been right; and that this day had not been cruelly saddened in the afternoon. We breakfasted with Miss Seymour; [36] and, after writing and reading,
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Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, &c.
Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, &c.
Monday, October 11, 1852. This day has been a very happy, lucky, and memorable one—our last! A fine morning. Albert had to see Mr. Walpole, and therefore it was nearly eleven o’clock before we could go up to the top of Craig Gowan , to see the cairn built, which was to commemorate our taking possession of this dear place; the old cairn having been pulled down. We set off with all the children, ladies, gentlemen, and a few of the servants, including Macdonald and Grant, who had not already gone u
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Laying the Foundation Stone of our New House.
Laying the Foundation Stone of our New House.
September 28, 1853. A fine morning early, but when we walked out at half-past ten o’clock it began raining, and soon poured down without ceasing. Most fortunately it cleared up before two, and the sun shone brightly for the ceremony of laying the foundation stone of the new house. Mama and all her party arrived from Abergeldie a little before three. I annex the Programme of the Ceremony, which was strictly adhered to, and was really very interesting:— Programme. The stone being prepared and susp
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The Kirk.
The Kirk.
October 29, 1854. We went to Kirk, as usual, at twelve o’clock. The service was performed by the Rev. Norman McLeod, of Glasgow , son of Dr. McLeod, and anything finer I never heard. The sermon, entirely extempore, was quite admirable; so simple, and yet so eloquent, and so beautifully argued and put. The text was from the account of the coming of Nicodemus to Christ by night; St. John, chapter 3. Mr. McLeod showed in the sermon how we all tried to please self , and live for that , and in so doi
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Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral.
Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral.
September 7, 1855. At a quarter-past seven o’clock we arrived at dear Balmoral . Strange, very strange, it seemed to me to drive past, indeed through , the old house; the connecting part between it and the offices being broken through. The new house looks beautiful. The tower and the rooms in the connecting part are, however, only half finished, and the offices are still unbuilt: therefore the gentlemen (except the Minister [41] ) live in the old house, and so do most of the servants; there is a
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Impressions of the New Castle.
Impressions of the New Castle.
September 8, 1855. The view from the windows of our rooms, and from the library, drawing-room, &c. below them, of the valley of the Dee , with the mountains in the background,—which one never could see from the old house, is quite beautiful. We walked about, and alongside the river, and looked at all that has been done, and considered all that has to be done; and afterwards we went over to the poor dear old house, and to our rooms, which it was quite melancholy to see so deserted; and se
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News of the Fall of Sevastopol.
News of the Fall of Sevastopol.
September 10, 1855. Mama, and her lady and gentleman, to dinner. All were in constant expectation of more telegraphic despatches. At half-past ten o’clock two arrived—one for me, and one for Lord Granville. I began reading mine, which was from Lord Clarendon, with details from Marshal Pélissier of the further destruction of the Russian ships; and Lord Granville said, “I have still better news;” on which he read, “From General Simpson— Sevastopol is in the hands of the Allies .” God be praised fo
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The Betrothal of the Princess Royal.
The Betrothal of the Princess Royal.
September 29, 1855. Our dear Victoria was this day engaged to Prince Frederick William of Prussia, who had been on a visit to us since the 14th. He had already spoken to us, on the 20th, of his wishes; but we were uncertain, on account of her extreme youth, whether he should speak to her himself, or wait till he came back again. However, we felt it was better he should do so; and during our ride up Craig-na-Ban this afternoon, he picked a piece of white heather, (the emblem of “good luck,”) whic
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The Kirk.
The Kirk.
October 14, 1855. To Kirk at twelve o’clock. The Rev. J. Caird, one of the most celebrated preachers in Scotland , performed the service, and electrified all present by a most admirable and beautiful sermon, which lasted nearly an hour, but which kept one’s attention riveted. The text was from the twelfth chapter of Romans, and the eleventh verse: “ Not slothful in business; fervent in spirit; serving the Lord. ” He explained, in the most beautiful and simple manner, what real religion is; how i
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Finding the Old Castle Gone.
Finding the Old Castle Gone.
August 30, 1856. On arriving at Balmoral at seven o’clock in the evening, we found the tower finished as well as the offices, and the poor old house gone! The effect of the whole is very fine....
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Gardens, &c. round the New Castle.
Gardens, &c. round the New Castle.
August 31, 1856. We walked along the river and outside the house. The new offices and the yard are excellent; and the little garden on the west side, with the eagle fountain which the King of Prussia gave me, and which used to be in the greenhouse at Windsor , is extremely pretty; as are also the flower-beds under the walls of the side which faces the Dee . There are sculptured arms on the different shields, gilt, which has a very good effect; and a bas-relief under our windows—not gilt—represen
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Love for Balmoral.
Love for Balmoral.
October 13, 1856. Every year my heart becomes more fixed in this dear Paradise, and so much more so now, that all has become my dear Albert’s own creation, own work, own building, own laying out, as at Osborne ; and his great taste, and the impress of his dear hand, have been stamped everywhere. He was very busy to-day, settling and arranging many things for next year....
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Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of Dee.
Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of Dee.
September 8, 1857. At half-past one o’clock we started in “Highland state,”—Albert in a royal Stuart plaid, and I and the girls in skirts of the same,—with the ladies (who had only returned at five in the morning from the ball at Mar Lodge ) and gentlemen, for the Linn of Dee , to open the new bridge there. The valley looked beautiful. A triumphal arch was erected, at which Lord Fife and Mr. Brooke received us, and walked near the carriage, pipers playing—the road lined with Duff men. On the bri
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Visits to the Old Women.
Visits to the Old Women.
Saturday, September 26, 1857. Albert went out with Alfred for the day, and I walked out with the two girls and Lady Churchill, stopped at the shop and made some purchases for poor people and others; drove a little way, got out and walked up the hill to Balnacroft , Mrs. P. Farquharson’s, and she walked round with us to some of the cottages to show me where the poor people lived, and to tell them who I was. Before we went into any we met an old woman, who, Mrs. Farquharson said, was very poor, ei
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Visit to the Prince’s Encampment at Feithort.
Visit to the Prince’s Encampment at Feithort.
Tuesday, October 6, 1857. At twelve o’clock I drove off with the two girls to the “Irons,” where we mounted our ponies, and rode up (Brown and Robertson attending on foot) through the Corrie Buie , along the pretty new path through Feithluie to the foot of the very steep ascent to Feithort , where we got off and walked up—and suddenly, when nearly at the top of the path, came upon Albert’s little encampment, which was just at the edge of the winding path. Albert was still absent, having gone out
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A Fall of Snow.
A Fall of Snow.
September 18, 1858. Alas! the last day! When we got up the weather seemed very hopeless. Everything was white with snow, which lay, at least, an inch on the ground, and it continued snowing heavily, as it had done since five this morning. I wished we might be snowed up, and unable to move. How happy I should have been could it have been so! It continued snowing till half-past ten or eleven, and then it began to clear up. The hills appeared quite white; the sun came out, and it became splendidly
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Ascent of Morven.
Ascent of Morven.
September 14, 1859. I felt very low-spirited at my dearest Albert having to leave at one o’clock for Aberdeen , to preside at the meeting of the British Association. I with Alice, the two ladies, Lord Charles Fitzroy, and Brown, left shortly before for Morven . We took post-horses at the foot of Gairn , and drove by the right side of the glen, along a new good road, avoiding the ford, and by half-past two we were at the foot of Morven , not far from the shooting-lodge there. Here we mounted our
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The Prince’s Return from Aberdeen.
The Prince’s Return from Aberdeen.
September 15, 1859. I heard by telegram last night that Albert’s reception was admirable, and that all was going off as well as possible. Thank God. I ascended Loch-na-Gar with Alice, Helena, Bertie, Lady Churchill, Colonel Bruce, and our usual attendants, and returned after six o’clock. At ten minutes past seven arrived my beloved Albert. All had gone off most admirably; he had seen many learned people; all were delighted with his speech; the reception most gratifying. Banchory House (Mr. Thoms
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Fête to the Members of the British Association.
Fête to the Members of the British Association.
September 22, 1859. The morning dawned brightly. Suddenly a very high wind arose which alarmed us, but yet it looked bright, and we hoped the wind would keep off the rain; but after breakfast, while watching the preparations, showers began, and from half-past eleven a fearful down-pour, with that white curtain-like appearance which is so alarming; and this lasted till half-past twelve. I was in despair; but at length it began to clear, just as the neighbours with their families, and some of the
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Expedition to Inchrory.
Expedition to Inchrory.
September 30, 1859. At twenty minutes past eleven we started with Helena and Louise in the sociable, Grant on the box, for Loch Bulig , passing the farms of Blairglass and of Dall Dounie , and the shooting-lodge of Corndavon , ten miles distant. Here we found our ponies (mine being “Victoria”), and rode along the edge of the lake, up a beautiful glen by a path winding through the valley, which appeared frequently closed. We then rode along a small river or burn, of which no one knew the name; no
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Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui.
Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui.
Friday, October 7, 1859. Breakfast at half-past eight. At ten minutes to nine we started, in the sociable, with Bertie and Alice and our usual attendants. Drove along the opposite side of the river. The day very mild and promising to be fine, though a little heavy over the hills, which we anxiously watched. At Castleton we took four post-horses, and drove to the Shiel of the Derry , that beautiful spot where we were last year—which Albert had never seen—and arrived there just before eleven. Our
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First Great Expedition:—To Glen Fishie and Grantown.
First Great Expedition:—To Glen Fishie and Grantown.
Hotel Grantown, Tuesday, September 4, 1860. Arrived this evening after a most interesting tour; I will recount the events of the day. Breakfasted at Balmoral in our own room at half-past seven o’clock, and started at eight or a little past, with Lady Churchill and General Grey, in the sociable (Grant and Brown on the box as usual), for Castleton , where we changed horses. We went on five miles beyond the Linn of Dee , to the Shepherd’s Shiel of Geldie , or, properly speaking, Giuly , where we fo
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Second Great Expedition:—To Invermark and Fettercairn.
Second Great Expedition:—To Invermark and Fettercairn.
Friday, September 20, 1861. Looked anxiously at the weather at seven o’clock—there had been a little rain, there was still mist on the hills, and it looked doubtful. However, Albert said it would be best to keep to the original arrangements, and so we got up early, and by eight the sun shone, and the mist began to lift everywhere. We breakfasted at half-past eight, and at half-past nine we started in two sociables—Alice and Louis [53] with us in the first, and Grant on the box; Lady Churchill an
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Expedition to Loch Avon.
Expedition to Loch Avon.
Saturday, September 28, 1861. Looked out very anxiously. A doubtful morning; still gleams of sunshine burst through the mist, and it seemed improving all round. We breakfasted at a quarter to eight, with Alice and Louis, in our sitting-room; and started at half-past eight. Louis and Alice with us, Grant and Brown on the box, as usual. The morning greatly improved. We drove along the north side of the river, the day clearing very much, and becoming really fine. We took post-horses at Castleton ,
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Third Great Expedition:—To Glen Fishie, Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole.
Third Great Expedition:—To Glen Fishie, Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole.
Tuesday, October 8, 1861. The morning was dull and rather overcast; however, we decided to go. General Grey had gone on before. We three ladies drove in the sociable: Albert and Louis in a carriage from Castleton . The clouds looked heavy and dark, though not like mist hanging on the mountains. Down came a heavy shower; but before we reached Castleton it cleared; blue sky appeared; and, as there was much wind, Grant thought all would be well, and the day very fine. Changed horses at Castleton ,
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Last Expedition.
Last Expedition.
Wednesday, October 16, 1861. To our great satisfaction it was a most beautiful morning. Not a cloud was on the bright blue sky, and it was perfectly calm. There had been a sharp frost which lay on parts of the grass, and the mountains were beautifully lit up, with those very blue shades upon them, like the bloom on a plum. Up early, and breakfasted with Alice, Louis, and Lenchen, in our room. At twenty minutes to nine o’clock we started, with Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. The morning was beyond eve
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First Visit to Ireland.
First Visit to Ireland.
On Board the Victoria and Albert, in the Cove of Cork, Thursday, August 2, 1849. Arrived here after a quick but not very pleasant passage. The day was fine and bright, and the sea to all appearance very smooth; but there was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing anything. We passed the Land’s End at nine o’clock in the morning. When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we were close to the Cove of Cork , and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the rockets and
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Yachting Excursion.
Yachting Excursion.
On Board the Victoria and Albert, Dartmouth, Thursday, August 20, 1846. We steamed past the various places on the beautiful coast of Devonshire which we had passed three years ago— Seaton , Sidmouth , off which we stopped for ten minutes, Axmouth , Teignmouth , &c.;—till we came to Babbicombe , a small bay, where we remained an hour. It is a beautiful spot, which before we had only passed at a distance. Red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like Italy , and reminding one of a ballet or
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Second Yachting Excursion.
Second Yachting Excursion.
On Board the Victoria and Albert, Off St. Heliers, Jersey, Wednesday, September 2, 1846. At a quarter-past seven o’clock we set off with Vicky, Bertie, Lady Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord Spencer, Lord Palmerston, and Sir James Clark (Mr. Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the “Black Eagle”), and embarked at Osborne Pier . There was a good deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At twelve we saw Alderney , and between two and three got into the Alderney Race , where there
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Visit to the Lakes of Killarney.
Visit to the Lakes of Killarney.
Tuesday, August 27, 1861. At eleven o’clock we all started in our own sociable, and another of our carriages, and on ponies, for Ross Castle , the old ruin which was a celebrated stronghold, and from which the Kenmare family take their name. Here there was an immense crowd and a great many boats. We got into a very handsome barge of eight oars—beautifully rowed. Lord Castlerosse steering. The four children, and Lady Churchill, Lady Castlerosse, and Lord Granville were with us. We rowed first rou
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