How To Fence - free ebook by Aaron A. Warford

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How To Fence

Aaron A. Warford

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HOW TO FENCE.

HOW TO FENCE.

CONTAINING FULL INSTRUCTION FOR FENCING AND THE USE OF THE BROADSWORD; ALSO INSTRUCTION IN ARCHERY, DESCRIBED WITH TWENTY-ONE PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATIONS. A COMPLETE BOOK. New York : FRANK TOUSEY , Publisher, 34 and 36 North Moore Street . Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by FRANK TOUSEY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. How to Fence Broadsword Exercise Archery Hurdle Racing Vaulting with Pole, or Pole-Leaping Throwing the Hammer Putting the Shot

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THE GUARD.

THE GUARD.

It is from this position that all movements are made, whether offensive or defensive. Let the beginner be placed with his knees straight, his feet at right angles, heel to heel; the right foot, right side, and face directed to the master. The body must be held upright and firm, the arms hanging down by the side, but easily and without constraint, the left hand holding the foil a few inches beneath its guard. Next, let him bring the right hand across the body, and seize the foil-handle; by a seco

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ADVANCE

ADVANCE

upon an adversary, when beyond hitting distance. The step in the advance is usually about that of the width of the Guard, although of course this would vary with circumstances. The step is made by advancing the right foot the distance I have named; and on its reaching the ground, the left foot is brought up, and takes its place. To...

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RETREAT,

RETREAT,

the reverse of the above movement is made. The left foot takes the lead, stepping to the rear about as far as the right had stepped to the front; the right occupying its place on its taking up its new position. The next movement,...

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THE LONGE,

THE LONGE,

is a very important movement, and is rather difficult to make properly, and fatiguing to practice. Indeed, the first movements in fencing are the most trying to the learner; and he must not be discouraged if he fails to do them correctly at first—practice only will give him this power. The Longe is that extension of body which accompanies every attack, and is thus made:—The right arm is extended straight from the shoulder, the arm and blade being on the same level; by a second movement, the righ

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THE RECOVER;

THE RECOVER;

that is, to return from the position of the Longe to that of the Guard, and is thus effected:—The left arm is nimbly thrown up to its place, the right arm drawn in, and the left knee re-bent. These movements must be made at the same time, as it is their united action that enables a person to recover from so extended a position as the Longe quick enough to avoid a thrust if his own attack has failed. These movements must be frequently practiced before any others are attempted—the Guard, the Advan

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THE ENGAGE.

THE ENGAGE.

It is customary for adversaries, on coming to the Guard, to Engage , or to join blades, on what is called the inside , that is, the right side; although there are occasions on which it is advisable to engage on the outside , or on the left; otherwise called the Quarte or Tierce sides. Two men thus opposed to each other will at once perceive that there are two lines of attack open to them, i. e. the line inside and the line outside the blade—these, and no more. But these may be, and in fencing ar

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PARADES.

PARADES.

Each opening has its own parade or defense, and each parade will guard its own opening, and, strictly speaking, no other. The opening inside above the hand is defended by two parades. As its name imports, the first and most natural parade is that of Prime . The action of drawing the sword from its sheath is almost exactly the movement made use of in the parade of Prime. In this parade the hand is raised as high as the forehead, so that the fencer can see his opponent's face under his wrist. The

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QUARTE.

QUARTE.

It is thus formed. On the approach of the point of an adversary's blade (and how these approaches are made I will presently explain), the right hand is moved a few inches—three or four will be enough—across the body on the inside, the hand being neither depressed nor raised, and the foil being kept on the same slope as in the Guard. This guards the body on the inside above the hand, but (and here comes an important law in fencing) the very movement which has guarded the body on one side has expo

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TIERCE.

TIERCE.

It is formed by turning the hand with the nails downwards, and crossing to the opposite side some six or eight inches, the hand and point at the same elevation as before; this will guard this opening. If, however, the attack has been made under instead of over the hand, then the proper parade would have been seconde . There is another method of parade called quarte over the arm—which is executed by making about the same parade as in Tierce, with this exception—first, the hand is retained in its

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SECONDE

SECONDE

is formed by turning the hand in the same position in which it was turned for tierce, but the point of the foil slopes as much downwards as in tierce it did upwards; the direction and distance for the hand to traverse being the same. Again, had the attack been delivered at none of these, but at the inside under the hand, then the proper parade would have been...

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DEMI-CERCLE,

DEMI-CERCLE,

which, as its name expresses, is a half-circle, described by a sweep of the blade traversing the under line. Next comes the parade of...

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OCTAVE.

OCTAVE.

In this parade the hand is held as in Quarte; the hilt of the foil is kept lower than that of the opponent: the blade is almost horizontal, the point being only slightly lower than the hilt, and directed towards the body of the adversary. Octave is extremely useful when the fencer misses his parade of Demi-cercle, as there is but a short distance for the point to traverse, and it generally meets the blade of the adversary before the point can be properly fixed. Moreover, it brings the point so n

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CONTRE-PARADES.

CONTRE-PARADES.

I have said and shown that a man standing foil in hand, in the position of the guard, is exposed in four distinct places to thrusts from an adversary within longeing distance. I have also shown that he has a defense for each of these exposed places; but if a man has but one defense for each assailable part, then his adversary, knowing beforehand what the defense must be, would be prepared beforehand to deceive him. But if he has a reserve—if he has a second defense for each part—then the adversa

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ATTACKS,

ATTACKS,

and shall begin with the most simple of them. I will again suppose two adversaries standing en guard , within longeing distance of each other: now the most simple movement that the attacking party could make would be...

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THE STRAIGHT THRUST

THE STRAIGHT THRUST

to the outside or inside, according to his line of engagement. I have, in describing the longe, in effect described the straight thrust; it is but a longe in a straight line, taking care, however, to feel firmly the adversary's blade, but taking care also not to press or lean on it during the delivering of the thrust. Next in character comes...

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THE DISENGAGEMENT.

THE DISENGAGEMENT.

This attack is made by dropping the point of the foil beneath the adversary's blade, and raising it on the opposite side, at the same time, rising with the arm fully extended; on the completion of the extension the longe is made and the thrust delivered....

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THE ONE-TWO

THE ONE-TWO

is but a double disengagement, the first being but a feint or false attack, to induce the adversary to form a parade to cover the part threatened, for the covering of one part of the body exposes the opposite; the second disengagement is made to take advantage of this exposure. The arm is extended half-way on the first, and then wholly on the second, to be immediately followed by the longe....

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THE BEAT AND THRUST.

THE BEAT AND THRUST.

This is another variety of attack. Supposing the adversary's blade to be firmly joined to yours, when you wished to deliver a straight thrust , there would then be danger of your falling upon his point. This danger is avoided by giving a slight beat on his blade the instant preceding your extension of arm, of course to be followed en suite by the longe. The companion attack to this one is...

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THE BEAT AND DISENGAGEMENT.

THE BEAT AND DISENGAGEMENT.

The beat here takes the character of the first disengagement in one-two , i. e. becomes a feint , and is intended to induce the adversary to return to the place he occupied when the beat was made. You then immediately pass to the opposite side of his blade in the manner described in the disengagement . It will be seen that all these movements pass under the adversary's blade. However, there are certain situations in the assault , as a fencing about is called, when an adversary is more assailable

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CUT OVER THE POINT.

CUT OVER THE POINT.

It is thus made:—By the action of the hand, and without drawing it back at all, the foil is raised and brought down on the opposite side of the adversary's blade, the arm being extended during its fall to the horizontal position, on attaining which the longe is delivered....

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CUT OVER AND DISENGAGEMENT

CUT OVER AND DISENGAGEMENT

is on the same principal as the one-two and the beat and disengagement . On the adversary opposing the first movement (the cut) with a parade, the second movement (the disengagement) is made to the opposite side, to be followed, of course, by the longe, the extension of the arm being divided between the two movements. These attacks are called simple attacks, because they may be parried by one or more simple parades, according to the number of movements in the attack. In fact, every attack can be

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DOUBLE,

DOUBLE,

has been invented; it is very simple in principle, and admirably answers the purpose. For instance if you were to threaten your adversary by a disengagement to the outside, and if, instead of tierce, he parried contra de quarte , the double is then made by your making a second disengagement to the same side as the first , for it will be found that his contra de quarte has replaced the blade in the positions they occupied previous to your disengagement. You will then have an opening, and may fini

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ALL FEINTS.

ALL FEINTS.

The foregoing movements having been well practiced in the lesson, the next step is that of all feints and all parades , and may be practiced either with a master or fellow-pupil. The practice consists of one pupil standing on the defensive entirely , while another assumes the offensive, and attacks him with all the feints of which he is master, the other, of course, defending with all his parades. It is excellent practice, as it accustoms the pupil to think for himself gradually, he having thus

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THE ASSAULT;

THE ASSAULT;

that is, he may encounter an adversary, to attack or defend as occasion presents. He is then left to his own resources entirely. The following...

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GENERAL ADVICE,

GENERAL ADVICE,

given by a very eminent fencer and excellent teacher, cannot fail to be of use: "Do not put yourself on the position of the guard within the reach of your adversary's thrusts, especially at the time of drawing your sword. "If you are much inferior, make no long assaults. "Do nothing that is useless; every movement should tend to your advantage. "Let your movements be made as much within the line of your adversary's body as possible. "Endeavor both to discover your adversary's designs and to conc

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POSITIONS.

POSITIONS.

First Position.—Make the target [For target, see page 26 .] about fourteen inches in diameter, and place it on the wall, having its center about four feet from the ground. Draw a perpendicular line from the spot at the bottom of the target to the ground, and continue it on the floor, in order to insure the proper position of the heels. The learner stands perfectly upright opposite the target, with his right side towards it, his heels close together, his right toe pointing to the target, and his

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TARGET.

TARGET.

The interior lines represent the cuts. Cut one being directed from No. 1 diagonally through the target, coming out at 4. Cut two is the same, only from left to right. Three is made upwards diagonally, and four is the same, only in the opposite direction. Cut five is horizontally through the target from right to left, and six from left to right. Cut seven is perpendicularly downwards. Care must be taken that the cuts are fairly given with the edge. The swords drawn on the target represent the gua

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CUTS AND GUARDS. CUTS.

CUTS AND GUARDS. CUTS.

Cut 1.—The young swordsman extends his right arm, and makes the cut clear through the target. When the point has cleared the target, continue the sweep of the sword, and by the turn of the wrist bring it with its back on the left shoulder, its edge towards the left. The arm is then ready for Cut 2.—Bring the sword from 2 to 3, continue the movement of the sword, and turn the wrist so that the point is below the right hip and the edge towards the ground. Cut 3.—Cut through the target diagonally,

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POINTS.

POINTS.

First Point.—Draw back the sword, until the right wrist is against the right temple, the edge of the sword being upwards. Make a slight pause, and then thrust smartly forward toward the center of the target, raising the right wrist as high as No. 1, and pressing the left shoulder well back. Second Point.—Turn the wrist round to the left, so that the edge comes upwards, draw the hand back until it rests on the breast, and give the point forwards, to the center of the target, raising the hand as b

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GUARDS.

GUARDS.

Wait after the third point has been delivered for the word, Defend. —At this word draw up the hand smartly, and form the first guard. Make the other guards in succession as they are named, while the instructor proves their accuracy by giving the corresponding cuts. The guards must be learned from the target, by placing the sword in exactly the same position as those delineated. The guards are these: The two spots H and I mark the places towards which the points are made, H for the first and seco

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PARRY.

PARRY.

The parry or parade of a thrust is executed with the back of the sword. The firmest way of parrying is to hold the sword perpendicular, with its edge to the right and its hilt about the height of and close to the right shoulder; then, by sweeping the sword round from left to right, any thrust within its sweep is thrown wide of the body. The parry is executed with the wrist, and not with the arm, which must not move....

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HANGING GUARD.

HANGING GUARD.

When the pupil is acquainted with both cuts and guards, he should learn the hanging guard, a most useful position, as it keeps the body well hidden under the sword, and at the same time leaves the sword in a good position to strike or thrust. It is accomplished in the following way:—Step out to the second position, raise the arm until the hand is just over the right foot, and as high as the head. The edge of the sword is upwards, and the point is directed downwards and towards the left. The left

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INSIDE GUARD.

INSIDE GUARD.

Stand in the second position, having the wrist of the right hand nearly as low as the waist, the hand being exactly over the right foot. The point of the sword is raised as high as the eyes, and the edge is turned inwards....

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OUTSIDE GUARD.

OUTSIDE GUARD.

The outside guard is formed in the same manner as the inside, with the exception that the edge of the sword is turned well outwards. To get to the hanging guard, the words are given as follows:—Inside guard—outside guard—guard....

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ATTACK AND DEFENSE.

ATTACK AND DEFENSE.

The swordsman having learned thus far, is taught to combine the three movements of striking, thrusting, and guarding, by the following exercise:— 1. Inside Guard. 2. Outside Guard. 3. Guard. 4. Cut One. 5. First Guard. 6. Cut Two. 7. Second Guard. 8. Cut Three. 9. Third Guard. 10. Cut Four. 11. Fourth Guard. 12. Cut Five. 13. Fifth Guard. 14. Cut Six. 15. Sixth Guard. 16. Cut Seven. 17. Seventh Guard. 18. First Point. [Prepare for the point in First Position.] Two. [Thrust in Third Position.] 19

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DRAW SWORDS.

DRAW SWORDS.

The first word of command is draw swords . At the word draw , seize the sheath just below the hilt, with the left hand, and raise the hilt as high as the hip, at the same time grasping the hilt with the right hand, turning the edge of the sword to the rear, and drawing it partially from the sheath, to insure its easy removal. At the word swords , draw the blade smartly out of the scabbard, throwing the point upwards, at the full extent of the arm, the edge being still to the rear....

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RECOVER SWORDS.

RECOVER SWORDS.

The wrist is now smartly lowered until it is level with the chin, the blade upright, and the edge to the left. This is the position of recover swords. The elbow must be kept close to the body as in the cut....

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CARRY SWORDS.

CARRY SWORDS.

The wrist is now sharply lowered until the arm hangs at its full length, the wrist being in the line with the hip, the edge of the sword to the front, and its back resting in the hollow of the shoulder, the fingers lightly holding the hilt. The left hand hangs at the side until the word inside guard , when it is placed on the left hip....

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SLOPE SWORDS.

SLOPE SWORDS.

At the word swords , raise the right hand smartly, until it forms a right angle at the elbow....

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RETURN SWORDS.

RETURN SWORDS.

At the word, raise the blade until it is perpendicular, move the hilt to the hollow of the left shoulder, drop the point of the sword into the scabbard (which has been grasped by the left hand and slightly raised), at the same time turning the edge to the rear. Pause an instant, and send the sword smartly into the sheath, removing both hands as the hilt strikes against the mouth of the scabbard; drop them to the side, with the palms outwards, and in the first position....

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PRACTICES.

PRACTICES.

There are many exercises with the broadsword, called practices . I have given one of them, which is to be practiced alone; but when the pupil has attained some confidence in the use of his weapon, he must be placed opposite another pupil, and they must go through them, each taking the attack and defense in turn. The young swordsman must be provided with a very stout wire mask, which defends the face and part of the neck, and which should be worked in a kind of helmet above, to guard against the

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SECOND PRACTICE.

SECOND PRACTICE.

This is very useful in teaching the point and parry, as well as giving steadiness on the feet. Two boys are placed opposite each other, at just such a distance, that when perfectly erect they can touch the hilt of their adversary's sword with the point of their own. The one who gives the first point is called Front Rank (there may be a dozen in each rank, each having tried the distance to his right by extending his sword), and the one who gives first parry is called Rear Rank. This should be con

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THIRD PRACTICE.

THIRD PRACTICE.

In this and the other practices the cuts must be delivered in the third position, and the guards in the first. In the third and fourth practices the cuts must be given lightly, as many of them are not intended to be guarded, but merely to show the powers of the sword in various positions....

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FOURTH PRACTICE.

FOURTH PRACTICE.

In this and the preceding exercise, the power of shifting the leg is shown. If two swordsmen attack each other, and No. 1 strikes at the leg of No. 2, it will be better for No. 2 not to oppose the cut by the third or fourth guard, but to draw back the leg smartly, and cut six or seven at the adversary's head or neck. In loose play, as it is called, i. e. , when two parties engage with swords without following any word of command, but strike and guard as they can, both players stand in the second

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FIFTH PRACTICE.

FIFTH PRACTICE.

This practice is capital exercise, and looks very imposing. All these practices ought to be so familiar that the words of command are not needed, the only word required being First, Second, or Third practices, as the case may be. I can remember once, that two of my pupils had attained such a mastery of their weapons that we used often to go through the practice with real swords. On one occasion, we were acting a charade, and my eldest pupil and myself were enacting the part of two distinguished

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FORT AND FEEBLE.

FORT AND FEEBLE.

The half of the sword-blade next the hilt is called the "fort," because it is the strongest place on which the cut of an adversary can be received. Always parry and guard with the fort of your sword, as, if you try to guard a cut with the "feeble," which is the remaining half of the blade, your guard will be forced, and the cut take effect....

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DRAWING CUT.

DRAWING CUT.

The drawing cut is made best with a curved sword, and is executed by placing the edge of the sword on the object, and drawing it over it until it is severed. A good large mangel-wurzel is capital practice. Place the root loose on a table, stand at arm's-length from it, lay the edge of the sword lightly on it, and slice the root by repeatedly drawing the sword over it. This is very difficult, although it looks easy enough, and is sure to jar the arm from the wrist to the shoulder the first time o

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GENERAL ADVICE.

GENERAL ADVICE.

Never look at your own sword, but watch the eye and sword-wrist of your opponent. Remember that the great point in this exercise, as in fencing, is to gain time. Endeavor, therefore, to advance your point nearer your adversary than his is to you. Begin the assault out of distance, so that neither party can complain of being taken by surprise. If the two parties exchange a cut or a thrust at the same moment, the one who gave his cut or thrust in the third position is victorious. When a cut or thr

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IMPLEMENTS OF THE CRAFT.

IMPLEMENTS OF THE CRAFT.

For the Purposes of the Archer the following implements are required, which may be obtained at any of the principal makers in New York or Boston—first, the bow; secondly, the arrow; thirdly, a quiver, pouch, and belt; fourthly, a tassel and grease-pot; fifthly, an arm-guard or brace, and a shooting glove; sixthly, a target or targets; and seventhly, a scoring card. The Bow is the most important article in archery, and also the most expensive. It is usually from five to six feet in length, made o

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TARGET-SHOOTING.

TARGET-SHOOTING.

The Targets are fixed exactly opposite each other, at 60 yards or perhaps more apart. The stands, when properly placed, are each called "an end." The proper number of arrows, as fixed by the rules, are then shot from each end by all the party assembled, when all proceed to pick up or extract their arrows, the marker scoring for each before drawing them from the target, after which the party shoot back again to the other end, and so on until the whole number of ends have been shot....

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BUTT-SHOOTING.

BUTT-SHOOTING.

Butts are built of long sods of turf pressed together. The form of the base is an oblong square, being about 8 or 9 feet on the front side, and 5 feet wide at the ends. The height is generally about 7 feet, and the depth diminishes gradually from the bottom to the top. When more than two are wanted they are ranged in sets; each set consists of four, ranged at the distance of 30 yards apart, and forming a chain of lengths of 30, 60, 90, and 120 yards; but so disposed as not to stand in the way of

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Roving.

Roving.

This is so called because the archers rove from place to place, and have no fixed target, but shoot at trees or any other object which presents itself. The winner of the first shot chooses the next, and so on; the distance being from 100 to 200 yards; and all arrows falling within five bow-lengths scoring, if nearer to the mark than the adversary's arrow....

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Flight-Shooting.

Flight-Shooting.

Flight-Shooting is merely a trial of distance, and he who can shoot the furthest is the winner of the trial....

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Clout-Shooting.

Clout-Shooting.

The Clout is a small white target of pasteboard, about twelve inches in diameter, which is slipped into a cleft stick, and this is stuck into the ground obliquely, so as to bring the lower edge of the clout to the ground. The distance is generally from 8 to 10 score-yards, and the same rules apply as in roving....

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Cross-bow Shooting.

Cross-bow Shooting.

Cross-bows are bows set in a frame which receives the arrow or bolt, and they are set and discharged by a trigger after taking aim. They are, however, now seldom used except for rook-shooting; and even there the pea-rifle has almost entirely superseded them....

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RULES OF ARCHERY MEETINGS.

RULES OF ARCHERY MEETINGS.

The Rules by which archery meetings are governed are partly the same as in all other similar societies, and partly peculiar to this craft. The former consist of those which regulate the election of members, providing for refreshments, &amp;c., which vary according to circumstances, and need not here be specified. The latter are generally as follows:— 1.—That a "lady paramount" be annually elected. 2.—That there be — meetings in each year, the gentleman at whose house the meeting takes place

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DRESS.

DRESS.

The Usual Dress for Ladies peculiar to archery is in most cases a green jacket worn over white; sometimes, however, the color is black. The gentlemen's costume is not generally fixed in archery clubs, but sometimes a green suit is the club uniform....

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EXPENSES.

EXPENSES.

The expenses of archery are not usually great, though a good many arrows will be lost or spoiled during a season's shooting, especially if the grass is not kept mown very close. Bows and all the other paraphernalia last a long while; and, with the exception of the arrows, the first cost may be considered to be the only one, over and above the subscription to the club, to which most archers like to belong, competition being the essence of the sport....

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HURDLE RACING.

HURDLE RACING.

1. The usual distance, 120 yards, over ten hurdles, regulation height, three feet six inches upright, not less than 12 or more than 20 feet apart, first hurdle must be placed 15 yards from the scratch-mark. 2. Hurdles must be cleared with a jump, touching the hands to the hurdle will be declared foul, and the offender disqualified. 3. Hurdle races may be arranged for any distance and any height of hurdle. 4. Each contestant must keep in his direct line of starting, or as near so as circumstances

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VAULTING WITH POLE, OR POLE-LEAPING.

VAULTING WITH POLE, OR POLE-LEAPING.

1. The uprights should be nine feet apart, and the bar placed on pins projecting two inches. 2. The pole must fall so as not to touch the bar. 3. A competitor touching the bar without causing it to fall shall be considered to have cleared it. 4. The height of bar at starting shall be determined by a majority of the contestants. 5. Competitors will be allowed three trials at each height. 6. The bar shall be raised at the discretion of a majority of the contestants, and so continued until only one

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THROWING THE HAMMER.

THROWING THE HAMMER.

1. The hammer-head shall be of solid iron, perfectly round, standard weights, 16 and 12 pounds, exclusive of handle. Length of handle three feet six inches over all. The handle should be made from split white hickory wood . 2. The competitor must stand at the scratch with one foot touching the scratch-mark. He is at liberty to throw with one or both hands. 3. Touching the ground, over the scratch-mark, with any portion of the body before the hammer strikes, shall be declared "no throw," and must

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PUTTING THE SHOT.

PUTTING THE SHOT.

1. The shot must be of solid iron and perfectly round, standard weight 16 pounds. The shot must be put from the shoulder with one hand, not thrown from the side or under swing. 2. Competitors will take their position between two parallel lines, said lines being seven feet apart. Passing the toe-mark, or touching the ground outside of the mark, with any part of the body before the shot strikes the ground, will be judged and recorded a foul, "no put," and must stand as one of the three trials. 3.

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THE YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA.

THE YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA.

THIS SPARKLING JOURNAL FOR YOUNG MEN Is Full of Interest from Beginning to End Its stories cannot be surpassed, and its authors have a reputation seldom equaled. Read the following array of talent, who write EXCLUSIVELY for this paper: ALEXANDER DOUGLAS (Scotland Yard Detective)—TOM TEASER—H K. SHACKLEFORD—RALPH MORTON— ALLAN ARNOLD—J. T. BROUGHAM—HAL STAND- ISH—A. F. HILL—D. W. STEVENS—TOM FOX (Philadelphia Detective)—FRANK FORREST —JOHN SHERMAN—HORACE APPLE- TON—RICHARD R. MONTGOMERY— COL. RAL

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THE FIVE-CENT WEEKLY LIBRARY.

THE FIVE-CENT WEEKLY LIBRARY.

A NEW LIBRARY ISSUED EVERY MONDAY. The following are the numbers already published: 1. Old Neversleep, by Walter Fenton. 2. Locomotive Bill, by Samuel Keene. 3. The Unknown Scout, by Zeke Baxter. 4. The League of Blue, by Paul Spry. 5. "27;" or, The House of Many Doors, by Philip Murdock. 6. Young Lynx, the Amateur Detective, by Richard R. Montgomery. 7. The Phantom of the Waves, by Alexander Armstrong. 8. The Twin Boy Scouts, by Percy B. St John. 9. Sumter's Aide, by Capt. Geo. Granville, U. S.

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THE BOYS OF NEW YORK POCKET LIBRARY.

THE BOYS OF NEW YORK POCKET LIBRARY.

Boys, this is just the Book you have needed for a long time We intend to make the stories contained in this Library the best ever published from the pens of our most popular and interesting authors. These Libraries contain thirty-two pages, and each number is complete in itself and handsomely illustrated. The following is a list of the latest numbers published of the Boys of New York Pocket Library: ONLY FIVE CENTS. Do not fail to purchase one from your newsdealer, as they all have them on hand,

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OUR COMIC BOOKS.

OUR COMIC BOOKS.

FUN, LAUGHTER AND AMUSEMENT FOR EVERYBODY These books are superior to any that have ever been published. CONSULT THE FOLLOWING LIST: Every book is handsomely illustrated by the best comic artists. Any one of them is a sure cure for the blues. For sale by all news dealers, or sent to your address, prepaid, on receipt of price, ten cents each. Address Frank Tousey's BY-THE-WAY SERIES, Containing five interesting and exciting works of fiction. Each book is handsomely bound in a beautifully-illustra

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OUR 10 CENT BOOKS

OUR 10 CENT BOOKS

USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE AND AMUSING. Containing valuable information on almost every subject, such as Writing , Speaking , Dancing , Flirting , Cooking ; also, Rules of Etiquette , The Art of Ventriloquism , Gymnastic Exercise , and The Science and Art of Self-Defense . All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the United States and Canada: or they will be sent, postage paid, to your address, on receipt of 10 cents each. FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, The original edition did not include

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