24 chapters
14 hour read
Selected Chapters
24 chapters
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long Continental tour, a certain eminent London publisher requested me to make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen—much less set foot upon—a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphine. The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascen
22 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY.
CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY.
On the steep path over the Gemmi there were opportunities for observing the manners and customs of the Swiss mule. It is not perhaps in revenge for generations of ill-treatment that the mule grinds one’s legs against fences and stone walls, and pretends to stumble in awkward places, particularly when coming round corners and on the brinks of precipices; but their evil habit of walking on the outside edges of paths (even in the most unguarded positions) is one that is distinctly the result of ass
52 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER II. THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.
CHAPTER II. THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.
I lost my way in the streets of this picturesque but noisome town, and having but a half hour left in which to get a dinner and take a place in the diligence, was not well pleased to hear that an Englishman wished to see me. It turned out to be my friend Macdonald, who confided to me that he was going to try to ascend a mountain called Pelvoux in the course of ten days, but on hearing of my intentions agreed to join us at La Bessée on the 3d of August. In a few moments more I was perched in the
47 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER III. THE MONT CENIS—THE FELL RAILWAY
CHAPTER III. THE MONT CENIS—THE FELL RAILWAY
The Fell railway follows the great Cenis road very closely, and diverges from it only to avoid villages or houses, or, as at the summit of the pass on the Italian side, to ease the gradients. The line runs from St. Michel to Susa. The distance between these two places is, as the crow flies, almost exactly equivalent to the distance from London to Chatham (30 miles), but by reason of the numerous curves and detours the length of the line is nearly brought up to the distance of London from Brighto
34 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IV. MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN.
CHAPTER IV. MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN.
The Matterhorn looks equally imposing from whatever side it is seen: it never seems commonplace, and in this respect, and in regard to the impression it makes upon spectators, it stands almost alone amongst mountains. It has no rivals in the Alps, and but few in the world. The seven or eight thousand feet which compose the actual peak have several well-marked ridges and numerous others. The most continuous is that which leads toward the north-east: the summit is at its higher, and the little pea
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER V. RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
CHAPTER V. RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
The year 1862 was still young, and the Matterhorn, clad in its wintry garb, bore but little resemblance to the Matterhorn of the summer, when a new force came to do battle with the mountain from another direction. Mr. T. S. Kennedy of Leeds conceived the extraordinary idea that the peak might prove less impracticable in January than in June, and arrived at Zermatt in the former month to put his conception to the test. With stout Peter Perm and sturdy Peter Taugwalder he slept in the little chape
2 hour read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VI. THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN.
CHAPTER VI. THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN.
We sauntered up the valley, and got to Breuil when all were asleep. A halo round the moon promised watery weather, and we were not disappointed, for on the next day (August 1) rain fell heavily, and when the clouds lifted for a time we saw that new snow lay thickly over everything higher than nine thousand feet. J. A. Carrel was ready and waiting (as I had determined to give the bold cragsman another chance); and he did not need to say that the Matterhorn would be impracticable for several days
25 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VII. OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
CHAPTER VII. OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.
Carrel had carte blanche in the matter of guides, and his choice fell upon his relative Cæsar, Luc Meynet and two others whose names I do not know. These men were now brought together, and our preparations were completed, as the weather was clearing up. We rested on Sunday, August 9, eagerly watching the lessening of the mists around the great peak, and started just before dawn upon the 10th, on a still and cloudless morning, which seemed to promise a happy termination to our enterprise. By goin
24 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VIII. FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD, BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES, D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE.
CHAPTER VIII. FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD, BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES, D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE.
When we arrived upon the highest summit of Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphine, in 1861, we saw, to our surprise and disappointment, that it was not the culminating point of the district, and that another mountain, distant about a couple of miles, and separated from us by an impassable gulf, claimed that distinction. I was troubled in spirit about this mountain, and my thoughts often reverted to the great wall-sided peak, second in apparent inaccessibility only to the Matterhorn. It had, moreover, another
41 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IX. THE ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS.
CHAPTER IX. THE ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS.
Before five o’clock on the afternoon of June 23 we were trotting down the steep path that leads into La Bérarde. We put up, of course, with the chasseur-guide Rodier (who, as usual, was smooth and smiling), and after congratulations were over we returned to the exterior to watch for the arrival of one Alexander Pic, who had been sent overnight with our baggage viâ Freney and Venos. But when the night fell and no Pic appeared, we saw that our plans must be modified, for he was necessary to our ve
39 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER X. FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.
CHAPTER X. FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.
From Ailefroide to Claux, but for the path, travel would be scarcely more easy than over the Pré de Madame Carle. The valley is strewn with immense masses of gneiss, from the size of a large house downward, and it is only occasionally that rock in situ is seen, so covered up is it by the débris, which seems to have been derived almost entirely from the neighboring cliffs. It was Sunday, a day most calm and bright. Golden sunlight had dispersed the clouds and was glorifying the heights, and we fo
26 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XI. PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE AND AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIÈRE.
CHAPTER XI. PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE AND AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIÈRE.
Ten years ago very few people knew from personal knowledge how extremely inaccurately the chain of Mont Blanc was delineated. During the previous half century thousands had made the tour of the chain, and in that time at least one thousand individuals had stood upon its highest summit; but out of all this number there was not one capable, willing or able to map the mountain which, until recently, was regarded as the highest in Europe. Many persons knew that great blunders had been perpetrated, a
51 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XII. THE MOMING PASS—ZERMATT.
CHAPTER XII. THE MOMING PASS—ZERMATT.
On July 10, Croz and I went to Sierre, in the Valais, viâ the Col de Balme, the Col de la Forclaz and Martigny. The Swiss side of the Forclaz is not creditable to Switzerland. The path from Martigny to the summit has undergone successive improvements in these latter years, but mendicants permanently disfigure it. We passed many tired pedestrians toiling up this oven, persecuted by trains of parasitic children. These children swarm there like maggots in a rotten cheese. They carry baskets of frui
28 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIII. THE ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER.
CHAPTER XIII. THE ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER.
Our career in 1864 had been one of unbroken success, but the great ascent upon which I had set my heart was not attempted, and until it was accomplished I was unsatisfied. Other things, too, influenced me to visit the Alps once more. I wished to travel elsewhere, in places where the responsibility of direction would rest with myself alone. It was well to know how far my judgment in the choice of routes could be relied upon. The journey of 1865 was chiefly undertaken, then, to find out to what ex
27 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIV. THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE
CHAPTER XIV. THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE
Croz and Biener did not return until past 5 A.M. on June 17, and we then set out at once for Zermatt, intending to cross the Col d’Hérens. But we did not proceed far before the attractions of the Dent Blanche were felt to be irresistible, and we turned aside up the steep lateral glacier which descends along its south-western face. The Dent Blanche is a mountain little known except to the climbing fraternity. It was, and is, reputed to be one of the most difficult mountains in the Alps. Many atte
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XV. LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN
CHAPTER XV. LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN
We should have started for Zermatt about 7 A.M. on the 18th, had not Biener asked to be allowed to go to mass at Evolène, a village about two and a half hours from Abricolla. He received permission, on the condition that he returned not later than mid-day, but he did not come back until 2.30 P.M. and we thereby got into a pretty little mess. The pass which we were about to traverse to Zermatt—the Col d’Hérens—is one of the few glacier-passes in this district which have been known almost from tim
36 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVI. VALLEY OF AOSTA, AND ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES.
CHAPTER XVI. VALLEY OF AOSTA, AND ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES.
The valley of Aosta is famous for its bouquetins and infamous for its crétins. The bouquetin, steinbock, or ibex, was formerly widely distributed throughout the Alps. It is now confined almost entirely, or absolutely, to a small district in the south of the valley of Aosta, and fears have been repeatedly expressed in late years that it will speedily become extinct. But the most sanguine person does not imagine that crétinism will be eradicated for many generations. It is widely spread throughout
37 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVII. THE COL DOLENT.
CHAPTER XVII. THE COL DOLENT.
“Men willingly believe what they wish.”—Cæsar. Freethinking mountaineers have been latterly in the habit of going up one side of an Alp and coming down the other, and calling the route a pass. In this confusion of ideas may be recognised the result of the looseness of thought which arises from the absence of technical education. The true believer abhors such heresies, and observes with satisfaction that Providence oftentimes punishes the offenders for their greediness by causing them to be benig
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVIII. ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.
CHAPTER XVIII. ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.
Michel Croz now parted from us. His new employer had not arrived at Chamounix, but Croz considered that he was bound by honor to wait for him, and thus Christian Almer of Grindelwald became my leading guide. Almer displayed aptitude for mountaineering at an early age. Whilst still a very young man he was known as a crack chamois-hunter, and he soon developed into an accomplished guide. Those who have read Mr. Wills’ graphic account of the first ascent of the Wetterhorn [57] will remember that wh
26 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIX. THE COL DE TALÈFRE.
CHAPTER XIX. THE COL DE TALÈFRE.
Glissading is a very pleasant employment when it is accomplished successfully, and I have never seen a place where it can be more safely indulged in than the snowy valley on the right bank of the Glacier de Triolet. In my dreams I glissade delightfully, but in practice I find that somehow the snow will not behave properly, and that my alpenstock will get between my legs. Then my legs go where my head should be, and I see the sky revolving at a rapid pace: the snow rises up and smites me, and run
1 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XX. ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.
CHAPTER XX. ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.
All of the excursions that were set down in my programme had been carried out, with the exception of the ascent of the Matterhorn, and we now turned our faces in its direction, but instead of returning viâ the Val Tournanche, we took a route across country, and bagged upon our way the summit of the Ruinette. We passed the night of July 4 at Aosta, under the roof of the genial Tairraz, and on the 5th went by the Val d’Ollomont and the Col de la Fenêtre (9140 feet) to Chermontane. We slept that ni
35 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXI. THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
CHAPTER XXI. THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July at half-past five, on a brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in number—Croz, old Peter and his two sons, [69] Lord Francis Douglas, Hadow, Hudson [70] and I. To ensure steady motion, one tourist and one native walked together. The youngest Taugwalder fell to my share, and the lad marched well, proud to be on the expedition and happy to show his powers. The wine-bags also fell to my lot to carry, and throughout the day, after each dr
48 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXII. DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
CHAPTER XXII. DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.
[80] Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I wish to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather than to indicate extreme inability on the part of Mr. Hadow. The insertion of the word ‘absolutely’ makes the passage, perhaps, rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the above explanation. [81] At the moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were all close together. Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all but taut, and the
22 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
A. SUBSEQUENT ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN.
A. SUBSEQUENT ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN.
PINNACLES NEAR SACHAS IN THE VALLEY OF THE DURANCE, FORMED FROM AN OLD MORAINE. In the summer of 1869, whilst walking up the valley of the Durance from Mont Dauphin to Briançon, I noticed, when about five kilometres from the latter place, some pinnacles on the mountain-slopes to the west of the road. I scrambled up, and found the remarkable natural pillars which are represented in the annexed engraving. They were formed out of an unstratified conglomerate of gritty earth, boulders and stones. So
3 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter