28 chapters
6 hour read
Selected Chapters
28 chapters
LIFE IN THE SOUDAN
LIFE IN THE SOUDAN
FROM A NEGATIVE BY LOMBARDI, PALL MALL. Yours very truly Josiah Williams. LIFE IN THE SOUDAN: ADVENTURES AMONGST THE TRIBES, AND TRAVELS IN EGYPT, IN 1881 AND 1882. BY Dr. JOSIAH WILLIAMS, F.R.G.S. ( Surgeon-Major, Imperial Ottoman Army, 1876-1877 ). ILLUSTRATED. LONDON: REMINGTON & CO., PUBLISHERS, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 1884. [ All Rights Reserved. ] To SIR SAMUEL WHITE BAKER, F.R.G.S., I DEDICATE, WITH HIS PERMISSION, THIS BOOK, CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF TRAVELS IN THE SOUDAN
30 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The Soudan, two years ago, was a name unknown to the million, and I will venture to say that at that time not one in fifty knew anything about it. Only those who could afford to obtain Sir Samuel Baker’s interesting and instructive work, “The Nile Sources of Abyssinia,” would be acquainted with the locality and other particulars. The literature extant on Egypt proper would probably amount to tons, but that on the Soudan would occupy a very small space indeed on the library shelf, for the simple
2 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
LEAVE ENGLAND FOR PARIS—DRUGS AND CLOTHING REQUIRED—A “SLEEBY” GERMAN—TURIN. I was bound for the Soudan, and had arranged to meet my party at Brindisi on the 21st of November, 1881. I therefore sent on all my heavy baggage by Peninsular and Oriental steamer to Suez; included in this was a good-sized medicine chest, well stocked with drugs for the relief or cure of nearly all the ills that flesh is heir to. I am an old campaigner, having served as a surgeon-major in the Turkish Army in 1876 and ’
7 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
MILAN—THE CATHEDRAL—GALLERIA VITTORIO EMMANUELE—PIAZZA D’ARMI—PALAZZO DE BRERA—LAKE OF COMO BOLOGNA—ITS ANCIENT HISTORY—LEANING TOWERS—THE CERTOSA—TEATRO COMMUNALE—BRINDISI. From Turin I went by train to Milan. I ought to have gone direct past Magenta, but by some mistake I found myself making quite a round-about journey, viâ Piacenza and Lodi; however, all’s well that ends well. I arrived at the hotel in Milan in time for table d’hôte . Now, although I am writing a book principally on travels a
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
P. AND O. STEAMER “TANJORE”—ARRIVAL OF THE MAIL AND PASSENGERS—ANCIENT BRINDISI—BRINDISI TO ALEXANDRIA— ALEXANDRIA PAST AND PRESENT—ITS TRADE. I arrived at Brindisi at 10 p.m. and was straightway driven off to the quay, was soon on board the P. and O. steamship Tanjore , commanded by Captain Briscoe, and not many minutes afterwards in my berth and fast asleep. My slumber was disturbed at 6 a.m. by the arrival of the Indian mail and a large number of passengers, who produced a great commotion ove
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
THE FERTILIZING RIVERS OF EGYPT—LEAVE ALEXANDRIA—INCIDENTS EN ROUTE—SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL—ANCIENT AND MODERN CAIRO—THE DONKEY BOYS—ARAB PATIENTS—DANCING DERVISHES—THE HOUSE WHERE JOSEPH, MARY, AND THE INFANT SAVIOUR LIVED IN OLD CAIRO—THE BAULAC MUSEUM—THE PETRIFIED FOREST—MOKATTAM HILLS—TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS AND CITADEL—CAIRO AT SUNSET. In former times, before the introduction of railways, the traveller to Cairo had to go by canal, hire a boat, servant; procure a carpet, mattress, and bedding; lay i
28 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
A YOUNG AMERICAN AT SHEPHEARD’S HOTEL—DRIVE TO THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH—ASCENT AND EXPLORATION OF THE PYRAMID OF CHEOPS—THE SPHINX. We arrived at our hotel rather tired, and felt it quite a relief to stretch our legs out straight after having them cramped up so long whilst on our donkeys. Having partaken of a good dinner, I adjourned to the balcony with a cigarette, sank into an easy lounge, and communed with my own thoughts. I had not been here long before I discovered sitting near me an individua
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
HELIOPOLIS—THE SHOUBRA ROAD—BEDROSKYN—MITRAHENNY—MEMPHIS—SAKHARA—APIS MAUSOLEUM—WORSHIP OF THE BULL APIS—TOMB OF KING PHTA—MEET THE KHEDIVE—ENGAGE SERVANTS FOR THE SOUDAN. My next visit was to Heliopolis on donkey-back. I was told that it would be a nice ride, but nothing to see except an obelisk when I got there. Notwithstanding this, I felt very desirous of visiting this ancient seat of learning, where Moses had lived and “become learned in all the wisdom of the Egyptians.” Accordingly Ibrahim
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
THE LAND OF GOSHEN—ANCIENT CANALS—SUEZ—HOWLING DERVISHES—ECLIPSE OF THE MOON AND STRANGE BEHAVIOUR OF NATIVES—LEAVE SUEZ—WHERE THE ISRAELITES CROSSED THE RED SEA—PASS MOUNT SINAI—CORAL REEFS ABUNDANT. Our next move was on to Suez by rail, a day’s journey through another very interesting portion of Egypt, the land of Goshen, the home of the Israelites for 430 years. A good deal of country near the line of railway is now under good cultivation, supplied by the Sweet Water Canal. The earliest attem
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
ARRIVAL AT SOUÂKIN—THE SOUDAN—BEDOUIN ARAB PRISONERS IN THE SQUARE, NOT “ON THE SQUARE”—IVORY—ENGAGE CAMELS—SHEIK MOUSSA—SOUÂKIN—SLAVES—TRAGIC END OF A DOCTOR—HADENDOWAH ARABS—AN ILL-FATED MISSIONARY ENTERPRISE. We were now just about to land in the Soudan, and as that word is, as I am writing, in everyone’s mouth, it would be as well to say something about it before I go any further. The Soudan, or Beled-es-Sudan, Land of the Blacks, has since the Middle Ages been the common name of the vast ex
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
THE START ACROSS THE DESERT—MY CAMEL SERVES ME A SCURVY TRICK—THE CAMEL, ITS HABITS AND TRAINING. Three days after our arrival at Souâkin there were some very heavy showers of rain. Mr. Brewster informed me that it was eighteen months since it last rained there. On the fourth day after our arrival about 80 hired camels were brought into the large open square to be laden with the tents and baggage of every description. I wish I could adequately describe the scene that ensued—the camels groan and
7 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
OUR FIRST CAMP—TORRENTS OF RAIN—JULES BARDET—CAMEL-DRIVERS BEHAVE BADLY—SULEIMAN IN TROUBLE—CAMEL-DRIVERS GET UPSET—THE DESERT—TWO OF US LOSE OUR WAY—JULES SUFFERS FROM DYSENTERY—SAND-STORM—A PILGRIM DIES ON THE ROAD, ANOTHER IN THE CAMP—JULES’ ILLNESS—CAMP SPLIT UP—LOSE OUR WAY—ENCAMP SEVERAL DAYS IN THE DESERT—ARAB HUTS—THE MIRAGE—A LION. After this digression and short dissertation on the camel, I will return to the subject of our journey. We now formed a tolerably numerous company, ourselves
26 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
ARRIVED AT KASSALA—DESCRIPTION OF KASSALA—WE BUY CAMELS AND HORSES—THE MUDIR GIVES A DINNER—JULES’ DEATH AND BURIAL—HYÆNAS—ARAB PATIENTS—MAHOOM’S HISTORY—DEMETRIUS MOSCONAS ON SLAVERY—MENAGERIE AT KASSALA. We arrived at Kassala at 8 p.m., and found the camp pitched about a quarter of a mile, or less, from it, close to a garden full of fine trees of various kinds; in fact, between this garden and a very wide river bed. This river is here called the Gash, but nearer to Abyssinia it is called the M
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
CAMELS FROM THE ATBARA—THE MUDIR—GORDON PASHA’S CHARACTER IN THE SOUDAN—FERTILITY OF THE SOUDAN. January 15th.—Messrs. Colvin and A. James, with their attendants, returned this afternoon from the Atbara, having purchased thirty-four camels. This rather astonished the natives here, who had no idea that we could do without theirs, and quite thought we should be obliged eventually to buy their camels, and of course give them a good price. Whilst our friends were gone to the Atbara, we bought sixtee
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
LEAVE KASSALA—CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY—MEET BENI-AMIR ARABS ON THE RIVER BED—THE BAOBOB TREE. All being ready, we started off from Kassala at 3 p.m. on the 17th January, intending to reach Heikota within three days. We encamped at 8 p.m., and next day were off at 9 a.m., marching until 6 p.m.—temp. 90° in shade. Fine trees became more numerous; the country looked much greener, and water was usually obtainable every day simply by digging a few feet in the sandy river-bed. This day we passed throu
4 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
ENCAMP AT HEIKOTA—SHEIK AHMED—HERR SCHUMANN AND HIS ZAREEBA—WE MAKE A ZAREEBA—THE MAHDI—EXCITEMENT IN THE VILLAGE—HORRIBLE TRAGEDY—SHEIK AHMED DINES WITH US—THE MAGIC LANTERN—LIONS VISIT US. Ere we could pitch our tents we had to cut down a number of young palm trees, and clear away a quantity of tall grass, &c. Whilst doing so Sheik Ahmed, of the powerful Beni-Amir tribe, who paid us a visit, gave us a good deal more of manual labour by advising us to make a zareeba (a fence of prickly
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
PATIENTS AT HEIKOTA—LEAVE HEIKOTA—GAME IN THE BASÉ COUNTRY—SEE OUR FIRST LION—A LION INTERVIEWS THE AUTHOR—TETÉL, NELLUT, AND OTHER GAME KILLED ON THE MARCH. On the 22nd January we were up in good time, as there was a good deal to be seen to ere we continued our march. We intended to return to Heikota after exploring the Basé country, which we thought would occupy about four or five weeks. It would not, therefore, be necessary to take all our baggage with us; accordingly, a considerable quantity
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
WE ARRIVE AT THE BASÉ OR KUNAMA COUNTRY—THE VILLAGE OF SARCELLA—MURDER OF MR. POWELL AND PARTY—MY CAMEL AND I UNCEREMONIOUSLY PART COMPANY—THE FIRST BASÉ WE SEE—ENCAMP AT KOOLOOKOO—OUR FIRST INTERVIEW WITH BASÉ—THEY MAKE “AMAN” WITH US—THEIR APPEARANCE—DESCRIPTION OF KOOLOOKOO AND THE BASÉ PEOPLE—THEIR HABITS AND CUSTOMS. From January 26th to 28th nothing of importance took place. A day seldom passed without nellut, tetél, and gazelle falling to someone’s rifle. We were all busy during leisure h
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
WE LEAVE KOOLOOKOO, ACCOMPANIED BY A NUMBER OF THE BASÉ—THE MAGIC LANTERN—SEE BUFFALO AND GIRAFFE FOR THE FIRST TIME—TWO BUFFALOS KILLED—A BASÉ FEAST—CURIOUS BASÉ DANCE—THEY DRY THEIR MEAT ON LINES IN THE SUN—A WOUNDED BUFFALO—HOODOO, CHIEF SHEIK OF THE BASÉ, VISITS US—A COLUMN OF SAND—A LEPER—THE BASÉ SQUABBLE OVER THE MEAT—WE ARRIVE AT ABYSSINIA. On the 3rd February we made a further advance, starting at 11 a.m., and encamping at 4 p.m., again on the river-bed, at Aibara. This day we marched f
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE DEMBELAS ATTACK US, MAHOMET WOUNDED,—NARROW ESCAPE OF TWO OF OUR PARTY—ACTIVITY IN CAMP, WE MAKE A ZAREEBA AND FIRE THE COUNTRY—HOLD A COUNCIL OF WAR—OUR SILENT AND DANGEROUS RIDE—HOODOO’S SAGACITY—ARRIVAL IN CAMP OF MAHOMET, WOUNDED—WE RETREAT—MAHOMET’S DEATH AND BURIAL. February 11th, 1882, was the most memorable day of the whole campaign. Thinking it was not safe to leave the camp without protectors, Messrs. W. D. and A. James and I remained in camp, whilst Messrs. F. L. James and Colvin
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIX.
CHAPTER XIX.
MESSRS. JAMES AND PHILLIPPS START ON A VISIT TO RASALULU—CURIOUS WAY OF SHAVING CHILDREN’S HEADS—A DISGUSTING BASÉ—THE CAMEL-DRIVERS BECOME MUTINOUS—INTENDED ATTACK BY BASÉ—WE FIRE THE COUNTRY AND MAKE A ZAREEBA—ENCAMP AT WO-AMMA—TROUBLE AGAIN WITH CAMEL-MEN—LIONS DISTURB US—ARRIVAL AT HEIKOTA—A TALE OF BLOOD AND SLAVERY. February 14th.—Made a rather short march, and encamped at Aibara, on some table-land by the Mareb. Ere doing so we had to clear away a quantity of mimosa bushes and young palms
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XX.
CHAPTER XX.
PATIENTS ARRIVE FROM ALL PARTS—ROUGH JOURNEYS—ARRIVE AT THE HAMRAN SETTITE—MAHOMET SALI DECEIVES US—CROCODILES, TURTLE, AND FISH—WE MOVE ON TO BOORKATTAN, IN ABYSSINIA—NEXT DAY WE MOVE OFF, AS ABYSSINIANS APPROACH—WE CATCH ENORMOUS QUANTITIES OF FISH WITH THE NET—NARROW ESCAPE FROM A WOUNDED BUFFALO—THE COORBATCH ADMINISTERED—SCORPIONS AND SNAKES—HAMRANS VISIT US—HAMRAN MODE OF HUNTING AND SNARING—HAMRAN AND BASÉ—THE HAMRANS THREATEN TO FIRE ON US—AGAIN RETURN TO THE HAMRAN SETTITE—ENCAMP AT OMH
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXI.
CHAPTER XXI.
A BOA-CONSTRICTOR VISITS US—THE BURTON BOAT—MOUSSA’s BEHAVIOUR ENTAILS A THRASHING AND HIS DISCHARGE—GREAT HEAT—A FINE HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED—HAMRAN FEAST—THE WHITE ANTS—ANOTHER HIPPOPOTAMUS KILLED—MAHOMET SALI BRINGS SUPPLIES—NATIVE MUSIC IN THE NIGHT—DELICATE HINTS CONVEYED TO THE PERFORMER—A REMARKABLY FINE NELLUT SHOT—ARAB AND EGYPTIAN TAXATION—BABOONS—A HAMRAN STORY—ALI BITTEN BY A SCORPION—ON THE MARCH ONCE MORE—ROUGH JOURNEYS. In the evening, whilst George and Anselmia, our two European serv
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXII.
CHAPTER XXII.
ENCAMP AT LAKATAKOORA WITHOUT THE CARAVAN—DESCRIPTION OF VILLAGE—BASÉ LADIES VISIT ME ERE I GET OUT OF BED—THEY RECEIVE PRESENTS AND ARE VERY AMUSING—ENORMOUS NUMBERS OF DOVES AND SAND-GROUSE—ABOOSALAL TO SOGODA—BOA-CONSTRICTOR KILLED—AN UNPLEASANT JOURNEY, WE ALL GET SEPARATED—ARRIVE AT HEIKOTA AGAIN. March 23rd.—Leaving Khor-Maiatah at 8.45 a.m., we had an exceptionally unpleasant day of it. We had seen the last of that fine river, the Tacazze; now if water was wanted it could only be obtained
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAPTER XXIII.
AN ABYSSINIAN IMPROVISATORE AND HIS LITTLE SLAVE—PREPARE FOR A MARCH TO MASSAWA—A STRANGE BASÉ BREAKFAST—PATIENTS—ARRIVE AT TOODLOAK—BENI-AMIRS ENCAMPED ON THE GASH—LIONS AND LEOPARDS ARE SHOT—OUR MONKEYS IN CAMP—BABOON MODE OF ATTACKING LEOPARDS—CRAFTY BABOONS—LIONS ABOUND—HYÆNA METHOD OF ATTACKING A LION—HYÆNA INTERVIEWS MR. COLVIN—ARRIVAL AT AMADEB—DEPARTURE FROM AMADEB—BAREAS ATTEMPT AN ATTACK ON THE CARAVAN—BENI-AMIRS WATERING THEIR FLOCKS AND HERDS—WE MEET WITH A YOUNG ELEPHANT—LEOPARD AND
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXIV.
CHAPTER XXIV.
A LION NEAR THE CAMP—THE MONKS OF CHARDAMBA—WE MEET ALI DHEEN PASHA, GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF THE SOUDAN—ARRIVAL AT KEREN, OR SANHÎT—THE PRIESTS AT KEREN—ACCOUNT OF KEREN—MERISSA—DRA, A DOMESTIC SLAVE, MADE FREE—DESCENT FROM SANHÎT TO THE ANSEBA VALLEY—THE BIRDS THERE—ALONG THE RIVER-BED OF THE LABAK—A BIG MARCH—MASSAWA—FAREWELL TO CAMELS—MASSAWA TO SOUÂKIN—TAKE IN CARGO—FAREWELL TO THE SOUDAN—ARRIVAL AT SUEZ. April 9th.—About 9 o’clock we were off again, halting at 5.30 p.m. at Adatur, on the River
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXV.
CHAPTER XXV.
SUEZ TO CAIRO—ALEXANDRIA—ON BOARD THE “MONGOLIA”—PASSENGERS ON BOARD—HIBERNIAN HUMOUR—VENICE—THE PIAZZA OF ST. MARK—THE CAMPANILE—THE PIAZETTA—THE ZECCA, OR MINT—THE PALACE OF THE DOGES—ST. MARK’S—THE ARSENAL. April 27th.—Heads and skins had to be sorted out, turpentined, packed and sent by sea from Suez, together with Mahoom and Girgas, the latter an Abyssinian whom Mr. Phillipps is taking home with him as a servant. On the 28th we left Suez for Cairo, arriving there at about 5 p.m., where I fo
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XXVI.
CHAPTER XXVI.
WE HEAR OF THE MURDER OF LORD FREDERICK CAVENDISH AND MR. BURKE—A GRAND SERENADE ON THE GRAND CANAL—MY JOURNEY FROM VENICE TO ENGLAND. Every evening during our stay in Venice, just about the time we finished dining in the evening, a gondola full of serenaders would take up their position just beneath our open window, and sing some of their charming Italian ballads in a very pleasing style, undisturbed by the rattling of cabs and omnibuses. Indeed, it seemed very strange, as we wandered about thi
8 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter