Glories Of Spain
Charles W. (Charles William) Wood
32 chapters
11 hour read
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32 chapters
CHAPTER I.AT THE GARE D'ORLÉANS.
CHAPTER I.AT THE GARE D'ORLÉANS.
On Calais quay—At the Custom-house—A lady of the past—Ungallant examiner—Better to reign than serve—Paris—Vanity Fair—Sowing and reaping—Laughing through life—At the Hôtel Chatham—A pleasant picture—In maiden meditation—M. Pascal is wise in his generation—The secrets of the Seine—Notre Dame—Ile St. Louis—A mediæval atmosphere—Victor Hugo—Ghosts of the Hôtel Lambert—H. C. again—His little comedy—M. the Inspector—Outraged ladies—"En voiture, messieurs!"—Mystery not cleared—The Orléanais—La Vendée—
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CHAPTER II.A NARBONNE HOSTESS.
CHAPTER II.A NARBONNE HOSTESS.
Carcassonne—In feudal times—Simon de Montfort—Canal du Midi—L'Âge d'or et le Grand Monarque—A modern Golden Fleece—One of earth's fair scenes—Choice of evils—M. le Chef yields—Narbonne—A woman of parts—The course of true love runs smooth— Diner de contrat —Honey versus the lune de miel —Madame's philosophy— L'Allée des Soupirs —An unfinished cathedral—At the gloaming hour—Mystery and devotion—The Hôtel de Ville—A domestic drama—High festival and champagne—The next morning—H. C. repentant—Madame
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CHAPTER III.BLACK COFFEE—AND A CONFESSION.
CHAPTER III.BLACK COFFEE—AND A CONFESSION.
Continued uproar—H. C. disillusioned—A dark night—Not like another Cæsar—More crowds—A demon scene—Fair time—Glorious days of the past—In marble halls and labyrinthine passages—Our excellent host—His substantial partner—Contented minds—Picturesque court—Songless nightingales—Conscription— H. C. 's modesty—Our host appreciative but personal—Bears the torch of genius—A mistake—Below the salt—Host's fair daughters—Catalonian women—The Silent Enigma—Remarkable priest—Good intentions—Lecture on black
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CHAPTER IV.A NIGHT VISION.
CHAPTER IV.A NIGHT VISION.
Wrong turnings—H. C.'s gifts and graces—Out at night—The arcades of Gerona—At the fair—Ancient outlines—Demons at work—In the dry bed of the river—Roasting chestnuts—Medieval outlines—In the vortex—Clairvoyantes and lion-tamers—Clown's despair—Deserted streets—Vision of the night—Haunted staircase—Dark and dangerous—A small grievance—The reeds by the river—Cry of the watchmen—Hare and hounds—Fair Rosamund—Jacob's ladder—New rendering to old proverbs—Cathedral by night—H. C. oblivious—Scent fails
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CHAPTER V.GERONA THE BEAUTIFUL.
CHAPTER V.GERONA THE BEAUTIFUL.
A Gerona señora—Grace and charm—Lord of creation—Morning greeting—Arcades and ancient houses—Conscription—Gerona a discovery—Streets of steps—Ancient eaves and rare ironwork—Old-world corner—Desecrated church—Gothic cloisters—Ghosts of the past—Visions of to-day—Soldiers interested—"Happy as kings"—Lingerings—Colonel seeks explanation—No lover of antiquity—More conscription—Dramatic scene—Pedro to the rescue—Mother and son—Sad story—Strong and merciful—Pedro grateful—Restricted interests—Colonel
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CHAPTER VI.ANSELMO THE PRIEST.
CHAPTER VI.ANSELMO THE PRIEST.
Beauties of age—Apostles' Doorway—How the old bishops kept out of temptation—Interior of cathedral—Its vast nave—Days of Charlemagne—And of the Moors—A giant dwarfed—Rare choir—Surly priest—And a more kindly—Our showman—Dazzling treasures—Father Anselmo—Romantic story—Heaven or the world?—Doubts—The gentle Rosalie decides—Sister Anastasia—Told in the sacristy—A heart-confession—Anselmo's mysticism—Heresy—Charms of antiquity—Scene of his triumph—Celestial vision—Church of San Pedro—Pagan interior
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CHAPTER VII.A DAY OF ENCOUNTERS.
CHAPTER VII.A DAY OF ENCOUNTERS.
"Can a prophet come out of Galilee?"—The unexpected happens—under the probe—Wise reservation—Born to command—Contrasts—Nothing new under the sun—The señora prepares for the fair—Grievance not very deep seated—Bewitching appearance—Señora dramatic—Ernesto—Marriage a lottery—Every cloud its silver lining—Gerona en fête —Delormais' mission—Deceptive appearances—Evils of conscription—Ernesto's ambition—Les beaux jours de la vie—Rosalie—A fair picture—Strange similarity—Heavenwards—Anastasia or Rosal
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CHAPTER VIII.MOTHER AND SON.
CHAPTER VIII.MOTHER AND SON.
Demons at work—In the crowd—Ernesto and his mother—Roasted chestnuts—Instrument of torture—New school of anatomy—Rhine-stones or diamonds?—Happy mother—Honest confession—Danger of edged tools—Cayenne lozenges for the monkeys—Joseph—Early compliments—Ernesto pleads in vain—Down by the river—Music of the reeds—Rich prospect—Faust—Singers of the world—Joseph takes tickets—Gerona keeps late hours—Its little great world—Between the acts—Successful evening—In the dark night—On the bridge—Silence and s
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CHAPTER IX.DELORMAIS.
CHAPTER IX.DELORMAIS.
Magnetism—Past life—Impulsive nature—First impressions—Perfumed airs—A gentle spirit—Haunted groves—Blue waters of the Levant—Great devotion—A rose-blossom—Back to the angels—Special providence—Fair Provence—Charmed days—Excursions—Isles of Greece—Ossa and Pelion—City of the violet crown—Spinning-jennies have something to answer for—Olympus—Ægina—Groves of the Sacred Plain—Narrow escapes—Pleasures of home-coming—Rainbow atmosphere—Orange and lemon groves—The nightingales—Impressionable childhood
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CHAPTER X.DELORMAIS' ROMANCE.
CHAPTER X.DELORMAIS' ROMANCE.
Rome—Count Albert—Happy months—Sweets of companionship—Egypt—Strange things—Quiet weeks—Sinai—Freedom of the desert—Crossing the Red Sea—Mount Serbal—Convent of St. Catherine—In the Valley of the Saint—Tomb of Sheikh Saleh—Pools of Solomon—Jerusalem the Golden—Bethel—Lebanon—Home again—Fresh scenes—Algeria—Hanging gardens of the Sahel—Mount Bubor and its glories—Rash act—At the twilight hour—Earthly paradise—Fair Eve—Fervent love—Arouya—Nature's revenge—Not to last—Eternal requiem of the sea—In
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CHAPTER XI.MONSEIGNEUR.
CHAPTER XI.MONSEIGNEUR.
Great conflict—Returning to Paris—Count Albert married—Marriages declined—Love buried in the grave of Arouya—Frivolities—Napoleon at the Tuileries—Illness—Doctors' errors—Days of horror—Vow registered—Between life and death—Victory—Home again—Abbé's objections—Resolve strengthened—Death of the Abbé—Taking vows—Life of energy and action—Rapid sketch—Sympathies—All ordained—"Monseigneur"—"Mon ami"—Cry of the watchmen—Candles wax dim and blue—Wandering in dreams—False prophet—H. C. rises with the l
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CHAPTER XII.A MINISTERING SPIRIT.
CHAPTER XII.A MINISTERING SPIRIT.
Sweet illusions—Everything seen and done—True devotion—In the vortex—Sunshine and blue skies—Less demon-like pit—Lights and shadows—Arcades lose their gloom—Rosalie—Charm of Anselmo—Romance not dead—H. C. in ecstasy—Escorting an angel—Cathedral steps—San Filiu—A lovely spot—Ancient house—Mullions and latticed windows—Passing away—Rosalie's ministrations—Resignation—Rosalie's farewell—"Consuelo"—Taken from the evil to come—The door closed—Ernesto's world topsy-turvy—Ernesto turns business-like—Th
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CHAPTER XIII.A WORLD'S WONDER.
CHAPTER XIII.A WORLD'S WONDER.
Barcelona—H. C.'s anxiety—Mutual salutes—Old impressions—Disappointment—Familiar cries and scenes—Flower-sellers—Perpetual summer—Commercial element—Manchester of Spain—Surrounding country—Where care comes not—Barcelonita—The quays—A land of corn and wine—Relaxing air—Lovely ladies—Ancient element conspicuous by its absence—Historical past—Great in the Middle Ages—Wise and powerful—Commerce of the world—Wealth and learning—Waxes voluptuous—Ferdinand and Isabella—Diplomatic but not grateful—Brave
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CHAPTER XIV.IN THE CLOISTERS OF SAN PABLO.
CHAPTER XIV.IN THE CLOISTERS OF SAN PABLO.
In the cloisters—Sacred geese—Bishop's palace—House of the Inquisition—Striking quadrangles— Ajimez windows—A rare cloister—Desecration—Library—Rare MSS.—Polite librarian—Romantic atmosphere—Santa Maria del Mar—Cloisters of Santa Anna—Sister of Mercy—San Pablo del Campo—More dream cloisters—Communing with ghosts and shadows—Spring and winter—Constant visitor—Centenarian—Chief architect—Cathedrals of Catalonia—Barbarous town-council—Hard fight and victory—Failing vision—Emblems of death—Laid asid
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CHAPTER XV.MONTSERRAT.
CHAPTER XV.MONTSERRAT.
Early rising—Imp of darkness—Death warrant—The men who fail—Ranges of Montserrat—Sabadell—Labour and romance—The Llobregat—Monistrol—Summer resort—Sleeping village—Empty letter-bags—Ascending—Splendid view—Romantic element—Charms of antiquity—Human interests—Mons Serratus—A man of letters— Solitude à deux —Fellow travellers—Substantial lady-merchant—Resignation—Military policeman—"Nameless here for evermore"—Round man in square hole—Romantic history— Cherchez la femme —Woman a divinity—Good name
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CHAPTER XVI.A HIDDEN GENIUS.
CHAPTER XVI.A HIDDEN GENIUS.
Monk's face—Superfluous virtue—"Welcome to Montserrat"—Mean advantage—Exacting but not mercenary—Another Miguel—Missing keys—Singular monk—Hospederia—Uncertainty—Monk's idea of luxury—Rare prospect—Haunted by silence—Father Salvador privileged—Monk sees ghosts—Under Miguel's escort—In the church—Departed glory—The black image—Gothic and Norman outlines—Franciscan monk or ghost?—Vision of the past—Days of persecution—Sensible image—Great community—Harmony of the spheres—Sad cypresses—Life of a he
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CHAPTER XVII.SALVADOR THE MONK.
CHAPTER XVII.SALVADOR THE MONK.
Gipsies—Picturesque scene—Love passages—H. C. invited to festive board—Saved by Lady Maria's astral visitation—The fortune-teller—H. C. yields to persuasion—Fate foretold—Warnings—Photograph solicited—Darkness and mystery—Night scene—Gipsies depart—Weird experiences—Troubled dreams—Mysterious sounds—Ghost appears—H. C. sleeps the sleep of the just—Egyptian darkness—In the cold morning—Salvador keeps his word—Breakfast by candlelight—Romantic scene—Salvador turns to the world—Agreeable companion—
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CHAPTER XVIII.A STUDY IN GREY.
CHAPTER XVIII.A STUDY IN GREY.
Manresa—Tropical deluge—Rash judgment—Catalan hills and valleys—Striking approach—Taking time by the forelock—Primitive inn—Strange assembly—Unpleasant alternative—Sebastien—Manresa under a cloud—Wonderful outlines—Disappointing church—Sebastien leads the way—Old-world streets—Picturesque and pathetic—Popular character—"What would you, señor?"—Sebastien's Biblical knowledge at fault—Lesson deferred—A revelation—La Seo—Church cold and lifeless—Cave of Ignatius Loyola—Hermitage of St. Dismas—Juan
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CHAPTER XIX.LERIDA.
CHAPTER XIX.LERIDA.
Picturesque country—Approaching Lerida—Rambling inn—Remarkable duenna—Toothless and voiceless—Smiles upon H. C.—Nearly expires—Civilised chef—A procession—Lerida Dragon—City of the dead—Night study—Charging dead walls—A night encounter—Armed demon—Wise people—Watchman proves an old friend—No promotion—Locked out—Rousing the echoes—Night porter appears on the scene—Also El Sereno—Apologetic and repentant—The charming Rose—Porter congratulates himself—Cloudless morning—H. C. confronted by the Drag
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CHAPTER XX.THE STORY OF A LIFE.
CHAPTER XX.THE STORY OF A LIFE.
Lerida by daylight—Second city in Catalonia—Past history—Days of the Goths—And Moors—Becomes a bishopric—Troublous times—Brave people—Striking cathedral—Splendid outlines—Desecration—The new cathedral—Senseless tyranny—One of the most interesting of towns—Crowded market-place—Picturesque arcades and ancient gateways—Wine-pressers—Good offer refused—Another revelation—Wonderful streets—Amongst the immortals—Our Boot-cleaner in Ordinary again—Thereby hangs a tale—His story—Blind wife—Modest reques
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CHAPTER XXI.THE END OF AN IDYLL.
CHAPTER XXI.THE END OF AN IDYLL.
Days of chivalry not over—In the evening light—Night porter grateful—Dragon in full force—Combative and revengeful—Equal to the occasion—Gall turns to sweetness when H. C. appears—Last night in Lerida—Bane of our host's life—Mysterious disappearance—Monastery of Sigena—Devout ladies—Returning at night—Place empty and deserted—Birds flown with keys—Quite a commotion—"The señor is pleased to joke"—Was murder committed?—Mysteries explained—Probably down the well—Drag for skeletons—Host's horror—"We
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CHAPTER XXII.A SAD HISTORY.
CHAPTER XXII.A SAD HISTORY.
Broad plains of Aragon—Wonderful tones—Approaching Zaragoza—Celestial vision—Distance lends enchantment—Commonplace people—The ancient modernised—Disillusion followed by delight—Almost a small Paris—Cafés and their merits—Not socially attractive—Friendly equality—Mixture of classes—Inheritance of the past—Interesting streets—Arcades and gables—Lively scenes—People in costume—Picture of Old Spain—Ancient palaces—One especially romantic—The world well lost—Fair Lucia—Where love might reign for eve
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CHAPTER XXIII.IN ZARAGOZA.
CHAPTER XXIII.IN ZARAGOZA.
Bygone days—Sumptuous roosting—Old exchange—Traders of taste—Glory of Aragon—Cathedral of La Seo—Modernised exterior—Interior charms and mesmerises—Next to Barcelona—Magnificent effect—Parish church—Moorish ceiling—Tomb of Bernardo de Aragon—The old priest—Waxes enthusiastic—Supernatural effect—Statuette of Benedict XIII.—Mysterious chiaroscuro—One exception—Alonza the Warrior—Moorish tiles—Bishop's palace—Frugal meal—Trace of old Zaragoza—Fifteenth century house—Juanita—Streets of the city—Cæsa
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CHAPTER XXIV.THE CANON'S HOSPITALITY.
CHAPTER XXIV.THE CANON'S HOSPITALITY.
El Pilar by day—In the old cathedral—The canon reproachful—Equal to the occasion—No pressure needed— Un diner maigre —Dream of forty years—True to time—Juanita—Fruits of long service—Exploring Juanita's domains—House of magic—"Surely not a fast-day"—Artistic dreams—Who can legislate after death?—Canon's abstinence—Juanita withdraws—Our opportunity—Canon earnest and sympathetic—Eugenie de Colmar—Canon's surprise—An old friend—Truth stranger than fiction—"You will forget the old priest"—Ingratitud
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CHAPTER XXV.QUASIMODO.
CHAPTER XXV.QUASIMODO.
Tarragona by night—Cathedral—Moonlight vision—Dream-fabric—Deserted streets—Ghostly form approaches—Quilp or Quasimodo?—Redeeming qualities—Pale spiritual face—Open sesame—Approaching the apparition—Question and answer—Invitation accepted—Prisoners—The Shadow—Under the cold moonlight—Enter cathedral—Vast interior—Gloom and silence—Fantastic effects—Enigma solved—Strange proceeding—No inspiration—Why Quasimodo turned night into day—Weird moonlight scene—Soft sweet sounds—Schumann's Träumerei—Spel
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CHAPTER XXVI.IN THE DAYS OF THE ROMANS.
CHAPTER XXVI.IN THE DAYS OF THE ROMANS.
Charms of Tarragona—Roman traces—Cyclopean remains—Augustus closes Temple of Janus—Great past—House of Pontius Pilate—Views from ramparts—Feluccas with white sails set—Life a paradise—City walls—Cathedral outlines—Lively market-place—Remarkable exterior—Dream-world—West doorways—Internal effect—In the cloisters—Proud sacristan—Man of taste and learning—Delighted with our enthusiasm—Great concession—Appealing to the soul—Señor Ancora—Human or angelic?—In the cloister garden—Sacristan's domestic t
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CHAPTER XXVII.LORETTA.
CHAPTER XXVII.LORETTA.
Our ubiquitous host—Curious mixture of nations—Francisco—His enthusiasm carries the point—French lessons—English prejudice—Landlord's lament—Days of fair Provence—Francisco determines to be in time—Presidio—Tomb of the Scipios—Fishing for sardines—Early visit to cathedral—Still earlier sacristan—Francisco's delight—Freshness of early morning—Reus—Bark worse than bite—Where headaches come from—An evil deed—Valley of the Francoli—Moorish remains—Montblanch—The graceful hills of Spain—Espluga—Franc
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CHAPTER XXVIII.THE RUINS OF POBLET.
CHAPTER XXVIII.THE RUINS OF POBLET.
A dream-world—Ruins—Chapel of St. George—Archways and Gothic windows—Atmosphere of the Middle Ages—Convent doorway—Summons but no response—Door opens at last—Comfortable looking woman—Ready invention—Confusion worse confounded—True version—Francisco painfully direct—Guardian gets worst of it—Picturesque decay—Gothic cloisters—Visions of beauty—Rare wilderness—King Martin the Humble—Bacchanalian days—When the monks quaffed Malvoisie—Simple grandeur of the church—Philip Duke of Wharton—Cistercian
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CHAPTER XXIX.LORENZO.
CHAPTER XXIX.LORENZO.
Day visions—All passes away—End of the feast—Francisco gathers up the fragments—Ghosts of the past—Outside the monastery—Oasis in a desert—After the vintage—Francisco gleans—Guilty conscience—Custom of country—Dessert—Primitive watering-place—Off to the fair—Groans and lamentations—Sagacious animal—Cause of sorrows—Rage and anger—Donkey listens and understands—A hard life—Washing a luxury—Charity bestowed—Deserted settlement—Quaint interior—Back to the monastery—Invidious comparisons—A promise—G
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CHAPTER XXX.THE GARDEN OF SPAIN.
CHAPTER XXX.THE GARDEN OF SPAIN.
Charms of Tarragona—Dream of the past—Quasimodo comes not—Of another world—Host's offer—Francisco inconsolable—A mixed sorrow—No more holidays—List of grievances—Fair scene—Luxuriance of the South—Hospitalet—Pilgrims of the Middle Ages—Amposta—Centre of lost centuries—Historical past—Here worked St. Paul—Our fellow-travellers—Undertones—Enter old priest—Draws conclusions—Love's young dream—Impressions and appearances—Not always a priest—Fool's paradise—Youth and age—Awaking to realities—Driven o
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CHAPTER XXXI.LOVE'S YOUNG DREAM.
CHAPTER XXXI.LOVE'S YOUNG DREAM.
First impressions—Devoted to pleasure—Peace-loving—Climate makes gay and lively—New element—Few traces of the past—Old palaces—Steals into the affections—City of the Cid—Ecclesiastical attractions—Archbishopric—University—Homer must nod sometimes—Comparative repose—De Nevada carries us off—Admirable host—Conversational—Grave and gay—Mercy, not sacrifice—Library—At Puzol—Exacting a promise—The hour sounds—Count Pedro appears—Fragrant coffee—Served by magic—Specially prepared temptation—Perverting
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CHAPTER XXXII.OLD ACQUAINTANCES.
CHAPTER XXXII.OLD ACQUAINTANCES.
Port and harbour—Sunday and fresh air—In the market-place—De Nevada protests—A curse of the country—In the days gone by—On the breakwater—Invaded tramcar—De Nevada confirmed—Another crusade needed—Plaza de Toros—In Sunday dress—Domestic interiors—When the play was o'er—Bull-ring at night—Fitful dreams—Fever—Maître d'hôtel prescribes—Magic effect—Depart for Saguntum—Before the days of Rome—Primitive town—Days of the Greeks—Attacked by Hannibal—Rebuilt by the Romans—Absent guardian—The hunchback—R
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