A Birder's Guide To North Dakota - free ebook by Kevin J. Zimmer

A Birder’s Guide to North Dakota

by Kevin J. Zimmer 1979 Distributed by L &amp; P Press Box 21604 Denver, CO 80221 This book is dedicated to my parents, Bernard and Mary Zimmer, who presented me with all the opportunities that made this book possible....

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PREFACE

The area covered by this guide is so large that I could not possibly have written it up without the help of many people. I particularly wish to thank Bob Randall and Frank Kelley, who provided much of the information used for the Bismarck-Mandan and Grand Forks areas, respectively; my brother and almost constant field companion Barry Zimmer, who helped with many suggestions; Kelly Stonecypher, who provided inspiration and the best kind of moral support; and most importantly, Jim Lane, whose advi

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HABITATS AND TOPOGRAPHIC FEATURES

Much of the topography of North Dakota can be traced to the effects of Wisconsin-age glaciation, particularly in the north and east. Large portions of these glaciated areas are peppered by countless ponds and lakes. A frightening number have been drained; nevertheless, these wetlands constitute one of the most important waterfowl production areas in the country. Although North Dakota cannot boast of large mountain ranges like the states farther west, it is anything but a flat, monotonous state.

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BACKGROUND ON THE BIRDS

A few years ago the American Birding Association surveyed its members to determine the 50 “most-wanted” species in North America. Of these, 9 are to be expected in North Dakota. In decreasing order of priority they are: Yellow Rail, Snowy Owl, Connecticut Warbler, Bohemian Waxwing, Baird’s Sparrow, Northern Goshawk, Sprague’s Pipit, Hoary Redpoll, and Smith’s Longspur. An additional 6 are on the current state list but are very rare and seldom seen: Boreal Owl, Great Gray Owl, Gyrfalcon, Hawk Owl

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WHEN TO COME

The seasons are defined by the following dates: Spring—April 1 to May 31, Summer—June 1 to August 15, Fall—August 16 to November 20, and Winter—November 21 to March 31. Most birders will be interested in breeding populations of marsh and prairie species. For these it would be best to come in June, preferably during the first three weeks. For migration, the timing depends on specifics. Warblers generally peak about the third week of May and again in mid-September. For waterfowl April and October

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WEATHER

North Dakota is a state of extremes when it comes to weather. To say that the winters are cold would be a gross understatement. Wind-chill factors commonly reach 50° below zero. (It is not wise to wander far from your car in such weather. Remember, also, never to sit for any period of time in your parked car with the heater on and the engine idling. Carbon monoxide poisoning takes many lives each year in the upper Midwest.) The winters are long in this part of the country, and just when you thin

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WHAT TO BRING

Dress is informal in this rural state. Levis are the rule rather than the exception. When birding in spring and fall, carry a warm jacket because the temperature can drop in a hurry. As for winter dress, there is not much to say other than “get the warmest clothes and foot-gear possible.” It is next to impossible to overdress for Dakota winters. Other things that could come in handy in winter are: 1) a shovel (especially if you intend to drive the back roads), 2) studded tires, 3) booster cables

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PESTS

There are plenty of biting insects around, and the mosquitoes can be downright obnoxious at times (especially if you are sleeping outside). Carry some kind of insect repellent (except in winter). Liquid repellents seem to last longer than sprays. Watch for ticks in brushy areas. No matter how hard you try you will probably get some anyway. Never pull one off. The proboscis usually breaks, whereupon infection may occur. They are best removed by applying rubbing alcohol (Some of the more obnoxious

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WHERE TO STAY

The larger towns have many motels, especially along the interstates. There should be no problem in Bismarck-Mandan, Dickinson, Devils Lake, Fargo, Grand Forks, Jamestown, Minot, Valley City, and Williston. These towns are distributed rather evenly over the state. Most of the smaller towns have at least one motel, but try to arrive early. Motels fill quickly in summer. Campers will find plenty of spots. In addition to the commercial campgrounds, most of the state parks offer camp sites, and some

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FORMAT

The main purpose of this guide is to direct the out-of-state birder to the better spots, although it is hoped that the book will be of use to resident birders as well. An effort is made to list several good areas in different parts of the state, if possible, for each of the more sought-after species. The best spots are shown in bold-faced type. If you are in a hurry, stop only at these places. Because of the large area, the state is split into four regions—Southeast, Southwest, Northwest, and No

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NOMENCLATURE

In 1973 the American Ornithologists Union (A.O.U.) published a supplement to its Checklist of North American Birds . This changed the current names and taxonomic status of many species. A number of birders have been in an uproar ever since, because many former species are dropped to sub-specific rank. The A.O.U. has further revised the checklist, with the promise of even more changes in the future. In addition, the American Birding Association published its own A.B.A. Checklist (Birds of Contine

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a) Cass County

FARGO The city of Fargo (population 53,000—largest in North Dakota) lies in the highly agricultural Red River Valley and is separated from Minnesota only by the river. Birds found here are basically eastern in nature. The Red River and its adjacent woodlands act as a funnel for migrating passerines and provide food and cover in winter for the few species which decide to stick out the long period of cold weather. Because of this, wooded areas along the river are the most productive spots. Probabl

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b) Richland County

To reach what may be the best river-bottom habitat in the southeast sector, start from the town of Leonard (southern-most Cass County) and go 1.0 mile south on State Highway 18. Turn left (east) on State Highway 46 and go 5.0 miles before turning right (south) on Highway 18 again as it leaves Highway 46. Drive 4.0 miles and turn right (west). (If you miss the turn, in another mile you will come to the Sheyenne River.) Go 5.0 miles and turn left (south). Stay on this road as it begins to follow t

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c) Sargent County

The Tewaukon National Wildlife Refuge , an area for transient and nesting waterfowl and marsh species, can be reached by starting just north of Cayuga at State Highway 11 and going south on County Road #12 through the town. After 4.7 miles you may turn left on a dirt road, which wraps around Lake Tewaukon. However, you may wish to continue on to the headquarters (turn left at a sign 5.5 miles south of starting point) to get a map, bird-list, and current information on birds and road conditions.

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d) Ransom County

A nice woodland area may be reached by going west on State Highway 46 from State Highway 32 about four miles west of Enderlin. Go 12.6 miles and turn left (south) at the sign to Little Yellowstone State Park. This park is not an outstanding birding spot, but it can be good in spring and fall, and it does offer a pleasant spot to camp. It is well wooded and therefore good for any of the species typical of this habitat, as well as for accipiters and owls (Great Horned and Common Screech). Most of

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e) Barnes County

BARNES COUNTY Lake Ashtabula, located predominantly in Barnes County, provides several interesting birding spots. One of the best is around Baldhill Dam . To reach the dam from Valley City, take Main Street East through the downtown area. Take the first right (Central Avenue North) after the city park and follow the signs for Lake Ashtabula, Baldhill Dam, and the Fish Hatchery. At 12th Street Northeast turn right. After 0.3 mile turn left at a sign for the dam. Continue for 0.8 mile and turn lef

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f) Stutsman County

The best birding area in this county, Arrowwood National Wildlife Refuge , ranks as one of the best in the state. The starting point is the north edge of Edmunds (northwest of Jamestown on U.S. Highway 281). From here, turn right (east) at the refuge sign onto County Road #44. After 5.4 miles you may turn left to the headquarters, or just beyond you may turn right for the self-guided auto tour. A visit to the headquarters is suggested, not only for information but also for some good viewing of w

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g) Kidder County

KIDDER COUNTY The Baird’s Sparrow is rather common in the area surrounding Salt Alkaline Lake . To reach the lake take the Crystal Springs Exit (#18) off I-94, drive west on the lateral road along the north side for 1.5 miles, and turn north. After 1.7 miles you will pass a lake on the right side with a sign saying “Waterfowl Production Area”. There is another on the left. Salt Alkaline Lake is 2.7 miles ahead on the left. At 5.0 miles from the freeway, turn left for a closer look. Both Salt Alk

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h) Logan County

LOGAN COUNTY Probably the best birding in this county lies in and around Beaver Lake State Park. From Napoleon, travel south on State Highway 3 for about eight miles, turn left (east) at the sign, and drive 6.5 miles to Burnstad. At this point there are two routes. The left (north) goes 2.0 miles to the park itself. (There are plenty of signs marking the way.) The other goes south on a dirt road for 1.7 miles to several extensive ponds and marshy areas. The lake may be good in migration for loon

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a) Burleigh County

Water areas (especially large marshes) are relatively few in the southwestern sector. Probably the best of these is Long Lake National Wildlife Refuge . To reach it go south on Highway 83 (Exit 40) from I-94 for 12.0 miles before turning left (east) at the sign. Refuge roads lead around Long Lake and through some good marshes. During migration, this is one of the best spots in the state. Some of the more interesting migrants are: Whistling Swan; Canada and Greater White-fronted Geese; Cinnamon T

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b) Morton County

The city of Mandan lies in Morton County just across the Missouri River from Bismarck. Most of the birds here are about the same as on the other side of the river, but there are some important exceptions. To reach the best spots, take I-94 west to Mandan and turn off onto Main Street (I-94/Highway 10 Business Loop). Turn left (south) on 6th Avenue Southeast at the sign to Fort Lincoln State Park. This street becomes Highway 1806 and leads to most of the better birding spots. Fort Lincoln State P

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c) Dunn County

DUNN COUNTY Yet another location for migrant and nesting waterbirds is Lake Ilo National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it, start just south of the town of Killdeer at Highway 22, go east for 3.0 miles on Highway 200, and turn right at the sign. Drive south through the mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s Hawk, Ring-necked Pheasant, Sharp-tailed Grouse, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Horned Lark, Lark Bunting, Lark and Grasshopper Sparrows, and Chestnut-collared Longspu

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d) Bowman County

Bowman Haley Dam Refuge Because of its position in the very southwestern corner of the state, Bowman County is one of the most exciting to bird. If you are going to find any truly western vagrants, your chances are better in either this county or the next two. The best spot for both waterbirds and grasslands species is Bowman-Haley Dam National Wildlife Refuge . To reach it go north on U.S. Highway 85 from the South Dakota border for 5.3 miles, and turn right on an improved gravel road at a sign

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e) Slope County

If you did not find a Sage Grouse in Bowman County, try the road from Marmarth to Amidon. It is 42 miles long, and takes off from the east edge of Marmarth, where it is marked by a sign. The best area is the first six miles, where the sage is thickest. However, it may be worthwhile to drive the entire road. While in Marmarth, check the trees in the residential area for nesting Western Pewees. One place where they have nested in the past is in the cottonwoods at the Marmarth Picnic Area. Turn lef

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f) Billings County

Besides being one of the most scenic, Billings County is one of the most rewarding to bird. As is the case with Bowman and Slope Counties, this county is good for western specialties and vagrants. The two best areas can be reached from the town of Medora. The first is Sully’s Creek State Park . At the eastern edge of town by a sign for the park, turn south on East River Road. Keep left at the first fork and right at the next two. After 2.5 miles you will reach the campground. This 80-acre park i

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a) Dunn County

As mentioned, badlands habitat does exist in the northwest sector. Its easternmost extension is found around the Little Missouri State Park . To reach it, go north from the town of Killdeer on State Highway 22 for about 17 miles, turn right (east) at the sign for the park, and proceed to the camping area. This is still a primitive area, and the campground is not developed. All trails are for hiking and horseback riding only. If your time is limited, forget this spot and go on to the North unit o

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b) McKenzie County

North Unit Roosevelt Memorial One of the most interesting and unique places to bird in the state has to be the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial . Most of the western species which inhabit the south unit can be found here also, and most birders who have visited both units agree that the north unit is better. This may be true partly because people-pressure is greater in the south unit, which lies right along the interstate. To reach the park, go south from Watford City on U.S. Hi

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c) McLean County

One of the better locations for transient and breeding waterbirds and grasslands species is the Audubon National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it, go north on U.S. Highway 83 from County Road #48 north of Coleharbor for 2.8 miles and turn right (east). After 0.5 mile, turn left to the headquarters for a map, birdlist, and current information. This refuge (formerly Snake Creek Refuge) was renamed in honor of John James Audubon, who made one of his last painting and collecting expeditions to this area

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d) Burke and Mountrail Counties

Lostwood National Wildlife Refuge is one of the better ones in the state. To reach it, start at the northern edge of Stanley, go north from Highway 2 on Highway 8 for 21.6 miles and turn left (west) at the sign. From here it is just a short way to the headquarters, where you can pick up a refuge map and checklist, and obtain up-to-date information about road conditions and desired species. (The resident dog is dangerous, so exercise appropriate caution.) Lostwood consists basically of rolling hi

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e) Ward County

There are few avid listers who have not heard about the area surrounding Kenmare. The town has become famous in birding circles largely because of the field work done there by Ann and Bob Gammell, and because of their hospitality in showing off the area’s specialties to visiting birders. Perhaps the single factor which generated the most publicity about Kenmare and its birds was the American Birding Association’s first convention, which was held here in June of 1973. Birders who attended were as

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f) Divide County

Upper Souris Refuge One of the better places is a large alkaline lake near Westby on the Montana-North Dakota line. To find it, start in the center of town (by the large grain elevator), and drive east on State Highway 5 for 2.3 miles before turning left (north) on a gravel road. Watch for Chestnut-collared Longspurs. After 2.0 miles you should be able to see the south end of the lake on the left. The main portion will be visible for the next few miles, and the whole distance should be driven. T

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a) McHenry County

Scenic Tour Salyer Refuge The best birding location in North Dakota may be J. Clark Salyer II National Wildlife Refuge , nestled along the lower reaches of the Souris River. It is ideal in that most major habitat types are represented. Included in its 58,700 acres are vast marshlands; uplands-sandhills; wet, grassy meadows; mixed-grass prairie, and well-wooded bottomland. The habitats are so diverse that over 250 species of birds have been recorded, of which about 125 nest. To reach the refuge,

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b) Bottineau County

BOTTINEAU COUNTY The city of Bottineau is well-known in North Dakota as the gateway to the International Peace Garden, which symbolizes our long-standing friendship with Canada. More importantly to the birder, it is the gateway to the Turtle Mountains, which are actually low hills dotted with lakes and potholes surrounded by stands of aspen, poplar, birch, and oak. The west end of the mountains is just north of Bottineau, from which they extend 35 miles to the east. This popular recreation area

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c) Rolette County

Lake Metigoshe State Park Willow Lake National Wildlife Refuge is often productive. To reach it continue east on Highway East 43 from the turn-off to Pelican-Sandy Lakes Primitive Recreation Area. After 3.1 miles you will cross the Rolette County line, which is marked. Go another mile, and turn right (south). The lake is 1.6 miles ahead on the left. The main attraction is the colony of Double-crested Cormorants. However, watch for Common Loon, grebes, American White Pelican (visitor), Great Blue

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d) Cavalier County

Rush Lake , a large marsh encompassing several thousand acres, is ideal for viewing waterfowl, shorebirds, and marsh species. To reach it drive 4.0 miles west from Wales to a point surrounded by marshy inlets and water-filled ditches. You can drive as far as road conditions permit. Although there is little open water, you should have excellent birding from spring through fall. Some of the birds to watch for are Pied-billed and Eared Grebes; all of the ducks common to the state; Great Blue Heron;

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e) Pembina County

The northeast sector contains many well-wooded areas. The Turtle Mountains probably represent the best of these in terms of birdlife; however, a similar avifauna can be found in the Pembina Hills, which lie predominantly in eastern Cavalier County and western Pembina County. The major habitat is upland, deciduous forest, with bur oak, American elm, quaking aspen, birch, and box elder being some of the predominant trees. Birding the Pembina Hills is like birding the Turtle Mountains. It is hard t

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f) Walsh County

Although the northeastern sector is loaded with marshlands, there are not many along the highly agricultural Red River Valley, which has been extensively cleared of forests and drained. A few good spots remain. One is Lake Ardoch, which can be reached by starting at U.S. Highway 81 on the northern edge of Minto and going east on County Road #15 toward Warsaw. After 3.4 miles turn right (south) on a gravel road. (It may not be passable in wet weather.) After 3.8 miles you will see the lake on the

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g) Grand Forks County

PRAIRIE CHICKEN AREAS There are only a few remnant populations of Greater Prairie Chickens left in North Dakota. Luckily, the State Fish and Game Department has managed to buy up most of the areas still frequented by them. Two spots are in Grand Forks County. Start at the northern side of Manvel (north of Grand Forks on U.S. Highway 81) and go west on County Road #33. To reach area number one, go 9.0 miles on County Road #33 and turn left (south). For the next 3.0 miles you will be crossing suit

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h) Nelson County

NELSON COUNTY Two excellent spots for water and marsh species are Rose Lake National Wildlife Refuge and Stump Lake National Wildlife Refuge . To reach them proceed south from Lakota on State Highway 1 for 2.1 miles and turn right (west) on a gravel road. Go 5.0 miles and turn left (south). Then turn right (west) at 1.0 mile. After 0.8 mile you will reach a marshy inlet of Rose Lake. The shallow marsh can be productive in migration and late summer for shorebirds. In the drier fields watch for Bo

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i) Benson County

A rewarding place to look for migrant and nesting woodland birds is Sully’s Hill National Game Preserve . To reach it start in the town of Devils Lake, go south from Highway 2 on Highway 20/57 for 12.0 miles, and turn left at the sign. After 0.6 mile turn left. Go 0.5 mile and turn left again. In 0.2 mile you will cross the cattleguard into the preserve, an area of rolling hills and uplands habitat. Ask at the headquarters for a list of the birds. You may either hike the nature trail (1.2 miles)

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j) Ramsey County

One of the best spots for migrant and nesting waterbirds is Lac Aux Mortes National Wildlife Refuge (also known as Lake Alice N.W.R.). To reach it go northwest on U.S. Highway 1 from Devils Lake. After about 13 miles turn right (north) on the road to Penn. Follow this gravel road through town and past Lake Alice. The road is chained off after 9.2 miles. The last few passable miles pass directly between Lake Alice and Chain Lake; you will have water on both sides of the road. All of the grebes an

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SPECIALTIES OF NORTH DAKOTA

Listed below are some of the species found in North Dakota that may be of particular interest to visiting birders. Some may be eastern birds of interest to western birders. Others may be western birds of interest to eastern birders. The purpose of the list is to aid finding each species. Therefore, information is given on abundance, distribution, habitat, and, where possible, on specific locations where each species may be found. Common Loon —Uncommon summer resident on permanent, freshwater lak

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BIRDS OF NORTH DAKOTA

The following charts include all species of wild birds occurring in North Dakota. The bar-graphs are designed to give a conservative idea of your chances of finding a particular species rather than of its abundance. Thus a large bird such as the Red-tailed Hawk may be shown as “hard to miss” while a shy, hard-to-identify, or small bird such as the Sharp-tailed Sparrow may occur in greater numbers, but be shown as “may see.” Many local birders and others who bird the area frequently were consulte

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